Monthly Archives

Mai 2020

The beginning of a new era: how 2020 pandemic is going to change the fashion world

By /BLOG/, /FASHION/

Text
A l i n a  S t e b l o v s k a y a

The beginning of a new era: how 2020 pandemic is going to change the fashion world

Throughout the history of humankind, fashion had to respond to the ever changing social context, and this time is no exception. However, when China first announced the emergence of a new virus, no one in the fashion world, or for that matter in any industry, could quite imagine the effect it would eventually have.

In the past decade we have already seen quite some disruption with the rise of the digital media and all the consequences of that. Nevertheless, all these changes were relatively slow paced and still vastly controlled by the fashion giants. It all was turned upside down in 2020 with COVID-19 pandemic becoming a catalyst. Now, what is our new reality going to look like?

Everything goes digital

Online shopping, digital magazines, FaceTime photoshoots, virtual runways and changing rooms… The lockdown restrictions have forced people (and businesses) to adapt to the new reality where everything needs to be accessible online. This means that online presence becomes a must-have for survival in the crisis and is likely to stay that way after the pandemic is over.

Creativity surge

Nothing was ever invented in the comfort zone.The limitations of the “new normal” encourage creativity to find alternatives for offline activities. There will be more and more new start-ups offering never heard of ideas and services, while established brands will have to go back to the drawing table and rethink their strategies.

Future of retail

The future of retail has been already questioned for a while. Boutiques and department stores have seen a steady decrease in their offline purchases over the past decade, and now more than ever they will be forced to shift their focus to e-commerce. Post-pandemic not all stores will reopen, and the ones that stay will need to be more inventive with their omni-channel approach.

Support local

With the supply chain being seriously disrupted by the lockdowns in China and other developing countries, brands will try to reduce their dependency on having manufacturing outsourced to Asia. Meanwhile, consumers are likely to shift their attention to local brands in an attempt to help them stay afloat while rethinking their attitude to fast fashion.

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ART & FASHION is a new exhibition at Hazegallery

By /NEWS/
ART & FASHION is a new exhibition at Hazegallery

ART & FASHION is a new exhibition at Hazegallery which takes place from May 15th to 28th, with a opening on 14th of May, 7 pm.

Curated by Purplehaze Editor-in-Chief Irina Rusinovich @irinarusinovich, the show focuses on fashion photography as a medium which transforms fashion into a tangible art object. Since Purplehaze Magazine @purplehazemagazine is devoted to both fashion and art, Haze Gallery follows this synergy concept as a sequel to the publication.⠀

To coincide with the reopening of the BERLIN gallery with a new exhibition a 3D online viewing room, will launch on May 14, 2020. Art & Fashion features works by 10 visual artists from different parts of Europe in anticipation of the summer show season.⠀

Georgy IL @gagan.il [Russia]
Alina Gross @alina.gross [Germany]
Katya Derksen @xkxtya [Great Britain]
Marta Braggio @martabraggio [Italy]
Taja Spasskova @tajaspasskova [Czech Republik ]
Noortje Stortelder @noortje_stotelder [Netherlands]
Anthony Authie @zyvastudio [France]
Tatjana Yeryomenko @ta_nu_chic [Russia]
Adam Siwek @adam_siwek [Poland]
Letu Salvi @letusalvi [Germany]

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Photo Credit “RED” Noortje Stortelder, @noortje_stortelder www.noortjestortelder.com

Diliusa Gimadeeva „Russian Doll“

By /FASHION/

RUSSIAN DOLL

Photo: Diliusa Gimadeeva @dilyusa.photo
Model: Tayler Holcomb @dividemgmt  @taylerholcomb
Style: Anna Bobriakova @weanet
Ekaterina Eizler @eizler
Makeup: Alexander Nikitin @hellernichek

Dress Outrageous Mermaid
Tights Ann Demeulemeester; Gloves Manokhi

Jacket Givenchy; Belt SIN
Shorts Agent Provocateur; Shoes Vintage

Jacket Prada

Jacket Prada; Belt SIN
Shoes Katy Perry; Gloves Manokhi

Dress Outrageous Mermaid; Tights Ann Demeulemeester
Gloves Manokhi; Jacket Prada; Gloves Manokhi

Dress BCBG Maxazria; Belt SIN; Shoes Vintage;
Jacket Prada; Shoes Villager

Art Digest: 26 April – 03 May

By /ART/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: 26 April - 03 May

What a strange spring we have this year — meanwhile it’s the first day of May. Despite all the difficulties, however, there is still a lot going on in the world of art & photography. Some galleries provide us with a full perspective on the shows running, while others let a couple of reporters get a sneak peak of what was being carefully prepared, but didn’t see its’ viewer yet (we all hope, it will one day). Find a selection of recent exhibitions, art events, and premieres below.

Aubrey Beardsley’s retrospective at Tate Modern

Find out more about the life and works of the late Victorian era artist at his retrospective at Tate Modern. Joining the 7-minute exhibition tour run by Tate curators Caroline Corbeau-Parsons and Alice Insley, you will see the spacious solution of the show as well as some of the works presented, all in the right mood. A room-to-room guide posted on the Tate website will help you to get a better understanding of the nature of Aubrey’s art through the artist’s biography.

A real dandy aesthete and a smooth provocateur, Aubrey Beardsley knew how to shock the respectable English audience at the end of the 19th century. Nevertheless, he kept juggling the line between refinement and eroticism giving no excuse to question his genius. The most surprising about him, however, is that Aubrey Beardsley created all his artworks in the span of just 7 years (1891—1898) dying from tuberculosis at the age of 25. His exquisite illustrations, drawings, and cover designs done in the run-up to the new century, such as Salome and Mademoiselle de Maupin share with us some top notes of a fin de siecle fragrance.

Aubrey Beardsley La Dame aux Camélias 1894 Tate

Aubrey Beardsley Self-Portrait 1892 British Museum (London, UK)

Helmut Newton online exhibition at his 100th anniversary 

Take a digital tour of “Helmut Newton 100” exhibition provided by a nice Sussex gallery, commemorating the artist’s 100th anniversary.

The legendary photographer would have turned 100 in 2020, had he been a centenarian. Though black and white, his photographs looked thrilling and certainly brave for its’ time (and even still maybe). Portraits of celebrities, fantasies lived out and curious close-up shots taken throughout the second half of the 20th century influenced the history of photography a lot. Newlands House, a new gallery space not far from London, offers an opportunity to enjoy the works by the artist online — while the show keeps being closed for the visitors, the gallery released a digital tour of INSIDE HELMUT NEWTON 100 just yesterday. It’s a nice way to see the Newlands House charming space as well. 

Helmut Newton, ‚Heather Looking Through Keyhole’

Helmut Newton’s Retro Verseau, Vogue France (1979)

Helmut Newton, Yves Saint Laurent in his atelier, Paris (1991)

Peeking at Met Show 2020 (though postponed)

Though the Costume Institute’s show and Met Ball 2020 have been postponed, we can still have a look backstage — some of the journalists were let in and allowed to take photos of the exhibition. A detailed, to the extent possible, coverage by Vogue might be good news for all fashion lovers. 

This year the Metropolitan Museum of Art is celebrating the 150th anniversary. The Costume Institute’s new show “About Time: Fashion and Duration” curated by Andrew Bolton was meant to celebrate the solemn occasion by providing a retrospective view of its history. The idea of the exhibition was to reveal the connection between the nature of fashion and time. Thus, the history of fashion from 1870 to 2020 has been explored with some curious patterns emerging. How Victoriana inspired the famous Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto to add some deconstructivist elements to his collections, where the balletic proportions in Christian Lacroix evening gowns came from — close-ups from the exhibition done by Annie Leibovitz will give a good hint on those and many other issues.

Paris Photo Exhibition Catalog online 

While there is still some time before the new dates of Paris Photo 2020 are announced (the art fair didn’t take place from April 2—5 as planned), collectors can start looking out for what’s on show. Here is the exhibition catalogue prepared carefully in advance by the organizers. 

Paris Photo is the world’s largest art fair dedicated to the medium of photography. This year the exhibition gathers 126 galleries and 47 publishers from 24 countries. In the Main Section you will find works by such masters of the field as Laszlo Moholy-Nagy and Imogen Cunningham and Dora Maar and Charles Nègre represented by different galleries, there also 15 solo shows on view. In total, there are more than 1,200 photoworks to enjoy and maybe buy. Caution: the public access to the catalogue has been provided for the time limited, until it’s clear when the exhibition takes place.

From the Paris Photo catalogue_ Masahisa Fukase, Untitled (six-eyed girl)

From the Paris Photo catalogue_ Andreas Gefeller, Untiled #015 (Palm tree), 2019

From the Paris Photo catalogue_ Feng Li, MAIDEN, 2018

Fashion-forward masks by two Bahraini entrepreneurs 

Good news from the field — people from all over the world don’t lose hope in the changing times and keep on coming up with some encouraging new ideas. Two Bahrainis created a fascinating design of anti-COVID masks inspired by Gulf culture and including some traditional symbols.

Entrepreneurs Noor Khamdan and Nada Alawi teamed up to create a colorful happiness boost which is also a necessary accessory at the present time. „With masks being mandatory… you can’t tell someone’s feelings, you can’t tell if they’re smiling at you. At least, this is a way to tell someone’s personality when they have colour on their face“ — commented Nada Alawi on the outstanding design. A set of three gift-wrapped masks is reported to cost about 52 dollars, 25% of the proceeds will go to charity.

A full-dimensional video guide at “Atelier E.B: Passer-by” exhibition 

The exhibition “Atelier E.B: Passer-by” at Garage Museum of Contemporary Art in Moscow would have been closed on May 10 — since we are not going to see the project live, the museum has launched a 360° digital tour which is available on the website. 

A brief introduction into the story: designer Beca Lipscombe and artist Lucy McKenzie partnered to launch a fashion label “Atelier E.B” based on local and exploitation-free manufacturing in 2007. The label does not only produce clothes, but also takes part in gallery exhibitions and cultural researches. This time the project by Lipscombe and McKenzie has been involved into the so-called exhibition “Atelier E.B: Passer-by” which consists of the exploration of such fields as display and distribution, including fairs, expos, department stores, and other forms being popular in the countries of the former Soviet Bloc. A high quality 360° tour enables to examine the exhibition closely, additional materials such as video interview with the founder of Russian fashion journalism Lidia Orlova is available as a part of the Garage Field Research program.   

Atelier E.B_ Passer-by, Garage Museum of Contemporary Art, Photo Ivan Erofeev

Atelier E.B_ Passer-by, Garage Museum of Contemporary Art, Photo Ivan Erofeev

Atelier E.B_ Passer-by, Garage Museum of Contemporary Art, Photo Ivan Erofeev

Tallinn Fashion Week will take place online 

In 4 days (see the proper time left on the website) Tallinn Fashion Week will take place via webcast. The jury consists of the members of Estonian Fashion Council, there are about a dozen designers participating — a small but fair show which might be a pleasure to watch. 

The recently held Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia makes it clear that online-format can be a success (taking into account the present circumstances). Watching broadcasts of fashion events and art exhibitions you support all the people who stay behind them, having put much effort into preparing the show. Join the webcast on May 5—6 and stay with the Estonian designers!

A live online conference with the legendary Art Newspaper 

Spending the weekend discussing the future of museums within the context of technological evolution — that’s what the Art Newspaper Youtube channel is ready to offer you in the 3 coming days.The three, 80-minute, online discussions which are to take place on May 1—3 will focus on such topics as preservation of cultural heritage, role of the museum and digitally produced knowledge in the society of the future, constantly shaped by the new technologies. The series of discussions is supported by Factum Foundation and Il Giornale d’Arte; museum directors, an art editor, a critic and a writer are among speakers.

Panel 1_ The Future of Museums, Photo theartnewspaper.com

Panel 3_ An Intimacy with the Physical World, Photo theartnewspaper.com

Panel 2 The Circulation of Objects, Photo theartnewspaper.com

Tatiana Vakhrusheva „Missing the ocean“

By /ART/

MISSING THE OCEAN

PHOTOGRAPHER Tatiana Vakhrusheva @tanyavakh_
MODEL Eugenia Scherbinina @jenny.mdl
MAKEUP ARTIST/HAIR STYLIST Viktoria Istomina @v.i_makeup
WARDROBE STYLIST Nina Atiskova @ninzeee

The story is becoming relevant in the light of the last events and the regime of self-isolation. It is  the story about the girl who is prisoned alone at home and who misses the ocean so bad. But the only thing she has is a toy blue whale that she spends all her time with and that reminds her the ocean a lot.

Body Bershka; Body Vintage
Dress Vintage

Crown Stylist’s property; Ties Calzedonia;
Shoes Bershka; Coat 22.Clothes

Kimono 22.Clothes

Body Bershka
Body Vintage

Kimono 22.Clothes

Fashion world during the quarantine: virtual fashion week, FaceTime shooting and medical staff on magazine covers

By /BLOG/, /FASHION/, /NEWS/
Text

PURPLEHAZE MAGAZINE

Fashion world during the quarantine: virtual fashion week, FaceTime shooting and medical staff on magazine covers

Now the world reminds us more and more of an episode from „The Black Mirror“. We see how rapidly people adapt to new conditions through technology. The fashion world is also undergoing significant changes in 2020, not only trying to adapt to the current situation, but also to contribute to the fight against the virus.

Gucci and Prada have cancelled shows in San Francisco and Tokyo while Ralph Lauren has postponed the show in New York.

Changing Russia’s fashion week into a virtual format is due to the imposition of restrictions on public events with over a thousand people. It is worth mentioning that the familiar fashion show has changed, and in April-May a complex of online events will be held at AIZEL.RU

Shooters and models promptly managed to find a remedy to this situation. Professional world-famous photographers simply jump on a FaceTime calling with their model mates, directing them and capturing screenshots each time they see a picture.

Demi Lovato was one of the first stars photographed in FaceTime style. Following this, such shootings became a trend and simplified life for models and photographers.

Now, we can find Bella Hadid’s FaceTime shooting for Italian work.

Demi Lovato

@aliona_pole на MBF Russia

Bella Hadid

Also, i-D made its special debut earlier this month with a design theme entitled Safe + Sound, in which nineteen models worldwide – including Bella’s sister, Gigi Hadid, and model Adut Adech – were reflecting on their adaptation to indoor lifestyle.

Many internationally renowned magazines, such as Time, Grazia, Vanity Fair, New Yorker and etc. have posted real heroes of our time on their covers- medical staff, demonstrating respect and moral solidarity to the people who fight against the COVID-19.  For the first time ever, Italian magazine Vogue will be released with an empty cover. The choice of white or „blank“ cover was made in support of the medical personnel, since this color is associated with the medical uniforms.

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The Comeback of Fashion Illustration and Purplehaze selection of illustrators today

By /BLOG/
Text

Irina Rusinovich

The Comeback of Fashion Illustration and Purplehaze selection of illustrators today

On November 2 in 1867, when the very first issue of the oldest fashion magazine HARPERS BAZAAR was published in the United States, illustrations were the only way to display clothing on paper. The “Fashion Plates” at that time were two-dimensional worlds, clearly showing the respective era, culture and taste of the time. Seasonal trends markedly made their way around the world until the breakthrough of photography at the beginning of the 20th century was exclusive.

Fashion illustrators founded stylistic movements and made art: Giovanni Boldini brought pure elegance to paper, his brush strokes were as skilful as the silhouette of a couturière, and fashion was always in the foreground in his portraits. With his opulently dressed figures, Erté shaped the Art Deco style like no other. René Gruau and his contemporaries helped Christian Dior’s “New Look” to success. Nevertheless, with the advancement of fashion photography, the illustration played the second violin more and more, from the 60s it increasingly disappeared from the magazines.

Rene Gruau

Rene Gruau

Of course, the fashion illustrators never completely disappeared. In the 1970s Antonio Lopez caused a sensation with his sensual, ultra-glamorous fashion illustrations. Karl Lagerfeld had a lifelong love of fashion illustration. And journalist and illustrator Michael Roberts has been playing the fashion world discreetly with his playful drawings since the 90s. Drawings have their own intrinsic value – they can add a special touch to the work of designers; bring a refreshing dash of humor; or magazine covers to collectibles. Last but not least, sketching is often the first step for designers when it comes to designing a collection.

That is exactly why they are increasingly appreciated today. In January 2020, Italian VOGUE published an edition that was fully illustrated by well-known artists – no trace of photo productions. The climate crisis, required new, more environmentally friendly ideas for the representation of fashion, instead of flying dozens of people and packages around the world for large shootings, editor-in-chief Emanuele Farneti said at the time. Now where humanity is faced with a challenge it hasn’t been faced before – the COVID 19 Fashion illustration again corresponds to the spirit of the times: digitization gave her new opportunities that were previously unthinkable; more and more artists are using them to represent diversity; and above all the current situation, triggered by the corona virus, calls for new ways to present the fashion of the season creatively.

Giovanni Boldini

Giovanni Boldini

Giovanni Boldini

Today, we want to share the most talented illustrators from Russia, who took part in the last weeks marathon,  organized by PURPLEHAZE and a Russian illustrator Natalia Nagibina @nagibina.art . The main prize is a participation in the Fashion Illustration exhibition, which will take place  in August at the  HAZEGALLERY ( BERLIN )

The competition was hard!  And the results overwhelming, as it revealed so many talents, so that the editors and Natalia had a big challenge to make a choice! Nevertheless, the decision has been made and the board announced the winners!

Here are our winners of FI marathon

Hello, my name is Anastasia Kondratieva @anastasia _gumbert, I am an illustrator.

I live and work in Russia. It so happened that my whole life was connected with art, and I received several art professions – a teacher-painter, a graphic artist, a set designer, a storyboard artist, an illustrator. In the last couple of years I‘ ve been doing fashion-illustrations. It is a new sphere for me and its very exciting. I have already managed to work with several designers from Russia and Ukraine. I drew sketches on Moscow Fashion week and Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia.

I am very inspired by cinema and fashion, because I graduated from Russian State University of Cinematography as a production designer. I see many connections between cinema and fashion shows, in both of them an atmosphere, an aesthetics and an image are important. In my works I like to experiment with techniques. Now I work with digital illustration, but I like to make it as similar as possible to oil painting, watercolor sketch or collage technique.

Undoubtedly, the Russian academic school influenced my vision of art, therefore a strong drawing and technique are important to me as well as the meaning of my work. As for me, art is the way of knowing the world, it is an instrument to develop. The artist is a versatile person who knows the history of art, classics movies and literature, fashion.

The essence of my work is to enjoy the process, enjoy the aesthetics, add a little imagination and share this with viewers.

@anastasia _gumbert

@anastasia _gumbert

@anastasia _gumbert

Hello, my name is Eugene @_evgeeniya_art__. I began to draw a long time ago! I have a professional diploma in Art studies, but there was a long break for almost 20 years. About a year ago, I began to draw more actively and exploring my own style! I get inspired by the works of famous and not so artists, designers and photographers. I like to experiment and I like different techniques.

@_evgeeniya_art__

@_evgeeniya_art__

@_evgeeniya_art__

My name is Alena Ulusavas @alulus_illustrator, I’m 37 years old, married, and with my husband we have a one and a half year old son. I am from Poltava (Ukraine), but I live with my family in two cities: Kiev-Istanbul. I have a tailorship education , since school I have dreamed of becoming a designer, and because of this reason I moved to Kiev 15 years ago from Poltava. I began to work as a tailor for one of the famous Ukrainian designers, and after one year I began to draw collections with him. By and by I drew two collections of shoes and curated them.

I have been drawing since childhood, thanks to mom ! As I remember now, I sat in front of the TV with the fashion channel turned on and sketched clothes of the girls walking along the catwalk.

I started to draw professionally fashion illustrations 3 years ago after I completed the course. The course which I have participated was not in order to learn how to draw, but in order to learn about the trend of “fashion illustration”. It was not difficult for me to portray a girl because of my profession and since then I have been doing this. Drawing is my biggest dream and especially fashion, the dream of my whole life, a hobby that brings money and my biggest dream is to become a popular illustrator in the future.

I have begun to receive the first orders just two months after the end of the course. First clients were my fans from Moscow and Israel. Then step by step the circle of my clients expanded, the clients were both foreigners (designers, personal illustrations, shops), and Ukrainians. Today, in search for my style, I also draw illustrations in the vectoral form. By shifting to the tablet it has become much easier. Thanks to my husband for supporting me!

@alulus_illustrator

@alulus_illustrator

@alulus_illustrator