Will you pattern me? The Great Art of scarves

By Juni 18, 2020 Juni 20th, 2020 No Comments

A l e x a n d r a  K h a r k o v s k a y a

Will you pattern me? The Great Art of scarves

We ask minimalists to be more tolerant at this point. PURPLEHAZE could not avoid readers with a secret predilection to look at patterns on carpets, mother’s handkerchiefs and lovers of signs, even in the coffee grounds. We don`t mind either. The brands listed below write their history on the fabric. Fortunately, not with blood, like the chroniclers, but with threads of silk and artists‘ brushes.

Hermès. Horse crazy brand

Imagine a square mirror with which you reflect the projection of the world. This is what Hermès scarves look like, reflecting a passion for geometry, color and, of course, horses that started the brand’s history back in 1837. The house created wrought iron harnesses, brides for carriage trade, as well as leather saddles and bags for them. To date, the masters continue to use this key story and on many shawls you can see graceful horses from traditional images to fantasy ones. There is a storyline behind each drawing, so this takes the scarf from a simple accessory to a “collector’s edition” class.

Pegase Pop scarf 45х45 £165/ Designed by Dimitri Rybalchenko

Favori du Faubourg wash scarf 90х90 £385/Designed by Florence Manlik

Patchwork Horse shawl 140х140 £880/Designed by Nigel Peake

Of course, this isn’t the entire list of animalistic prints of the brand. The heroes of hermès shawls can be giraffes, birds with a variety of their feathers, tigers, as well as ethnic patterns, cosmography, portraits of native Americans, Trompe-l’oeil still lifes, abstraction and much more.

By the way, only in a big secret, our editorial staff is ready to share with readers the tricks by which you can distinguish a fake from the original:

  • The stitches should be carefully sewn on the front side of the handkerchief, and the threads should ALWAYS be matched to its main color.
  • All scarves have the inscription “Hermès-Paris“, but many” pirated copies “miss one very characteristic thing: the acute accent above the second ”e“.
  • The copyright mark ©Hermès must be present on all brand items. Yes, the buyer will have to look for it, first of all, because of its size, and secondly, due to its complete dissolution in the design.
  • The care label is written exclusively in the manufacturer’s language, French, or English.

Hypnethnic Russia with Gourji and Sirinbird

The plot of Russian fairy tales is known to almost everyone. Those who are imbued with the spirit of Russian folklore, and maybe even memories from their childhood about their “babushka” and her patterned carpets, will definitely like the extravagant brand Gourji and the winged style of silk scarves from Sirinbird.

Sirinbird founder Irina Batkova describes the brand as „myths and legends about Russia told on natural silk.” She creates all the designs herself – first by hand, then in vector and then printed in Italy. The work begins with reading folk tales, studying the techniques of ancient painting, a blank sheet and a favorite pencil Koh-i-Noor (H).

Irina Bat’kowa

Irina Bat’kowa

Irina Bat’kowa

The site has a huge selection of ornaments based on the tales of the great Russian poet Pushkin, „The Nutcracker“, as well as natural objects. So, by the end of June 2020, a new collection dedicated to the main arteries of Russia — rivers — is expected.

By the way, both Hermès and Sirinbird shawls are based on twill weave, which creates a visible pattern of diagonal threads. This gives the finished product strength and flexibility in the drapery action.

According to the founder of the jewelry and accessory brand Gourji, Dmitry Gourji, the starting point for creating scarves was both pre-revolutionary Russia and the Soviet era. This is especially felt by those who were born during that time. Artists achieve atmospherics not only with lines, but also with color. For example, if Sirinbird reproduces the characters of the German fairy tale, while the scarf with the same theme in Gourji is made in a more subdued palette in the artists‘ own interpretation. Compare:

„The Nutcracker“ Sirinbird/ 158$

„The Nutcracker“ Gourji/ 100$

It is surprising how much the historical heritage of one country can be reflected in several directions at once: whether it is folklore, or a new reading of the entire history of Russia. Thus, Gourji is famous for its Sepia and black-and-white prints on silk, often accompanied by lines of songs and poems around the entire perimeter of the scarf. 

In addition to silk, cashmere is used in the production of shawls, as well as eco-friendly Modal, made from 100% wood pulp (eucalyptus, beech, pine tree).

Shawl „Fountain of Friendship“

Headscarf „Yalta“

Shawl based on Chekhov’s piece „The Cherry Orchard“

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