Art Digest: September 28—October 04

By Oktober 4, 2020 No Comments

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: September 28—October 04

Colour red has traditionally been considered a primary one. Rich and incentive, red evokes passion and … aggression. Pantone Color Institute has recently come up with a new hue of red, which is meant to end menstruation stigma. That won’t be the case, however, for Yohji Yamamoto — the SS 21 Women’s collection by the Japanese couturier lacks any reference to such expressive shades either giving preference to the basic palette. More on these and other news of the week below.

D E S I G N 

Pantone launched new shade of red inspired by periods 

Red can never be too good. Favored by many women and couturiers, colour red is a pure expression that actually matches any type of person — all you need is to choose the right shade. This time Pantone Colour Institute (famous for providing complicated colour matches solutions since 1963) has discovered another hue of red and named it after women’s periods. The elaboration is a part of Seen + Heard campaign by the Swedish feminine products brand Intimina, aimed at promoting periods positivity.

‘An active and adventurous red hue, ‘period’ emboldens people who menstruate to feel proud of who they are’. (Laurie Pressman, vice-president of the Pantone Color Institute)

Besides its activist mission, the campaign also matches trends spotted in the market. Fashion industry is one from those to look up to in this matter. Red has been regular on the runways since the middle of the previous century, when then young Valentino Garavani presented his first Rosso Valentino dress in 1959. Since then red has appeared in every new collection of the brand, not to mention that the colour inspired a separate fashion line called Red Valentino. By the way, colour red has been recognized as a trend on the recent Milan Fashion Week SS 2021. Brands like D&G, Marni, and Fendi just wouldn’t pass by the gorgeous colour.

A R T 

Berlin curator received city highest honor 

Meet curator Bonaventure Soh Bejeng Ndikung, who is a director and founder of Savvy Contemporary art space and lately a holder of the prestigious Order of Merit of Berlin. The honor doesn’t come for good reason, but recognizes outstanding contributions to the State of Berlin. There can be no more than 400 living recipients of the Order according to the Berlin Constitution. In 2020 10 people, including Bonaventure Soh Bejeng Ndikung, were given the award.

Apparently, Ndikung’s talent, professional curiosity, and engagement should be applauded. On his service record are such major international projects as Documenta 14 (curator at large), Bamako Encounters photography biennial (artistic director), 2019 Venice Biennale (curator of the Finland’s pavilion), and Sonsbeek biennial in Amsterdam (again, artistic director). Bonaventure Soh Bejeng Ndikung is not only an independent art curator, but also a biotechnologist. Along with running Savvy, he heads an homonymous journal with focus on contemporary African art. 

Extensive display of Damien Hirst’s works at Newport Street Gallery 

What comes to your mind when you hear the name of Damien Hirst? Probably the legendary artwork by the artist with a scarecrow of a shark preserved in formaldehyde in a giant fish tank. Such a complicated yet entrancing title ‘The Physical Impossibility of Death in the Mind of Someone Living’ — and a great destiny. Prior commissioned by Saatchi, the artwork was sold for about $12 million dollars and soon became a symbol of Britart worldwide. ‘For the love of God’, also known as the brilliant skull, is another iconic piece by Damien Hirst. However, those artworks are far from everything created by the famous member of the YBAs

‘Art’s about life and it can’t really be about anything else. There isn’t anything else’. (Damien Hirst) 

If you are ever felt curious about Hirst’s first steps in the profession, then ‘End of a Century’ at Newport Street Gallery (London) is your choice. Opening in a week’s time, the exhibition spans Damien Hirst’s early artistic period starting from the 80s when he was still a student and culminating in the 90s with Hirst becoming a member of the famed Young British Artists group. More than 50 artworks on display will tell you about Hirst’s attitude towards such core topics as life, death, beauty, and religion. The exhibition runs from October 07, 2020—March 07, 2021. The entrance is free, but you need to book tickets in advance. 

F A S H I O N 

Meet Women’s Spring Summer 2021 collection by Yohji Yamamoto 

Our next hero Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto briskly woke up from the general pausing caused by the coronavirus and rushed to Paris to show his creations. Yamamoto presented his Femme SS 2021 collection as a part of Paris Fashion Week on October 2. The location is gorgeous — the gilded reception hall of the Parisian Hôtel de Ville. As for the fashion show, it was perfectly provided in line with Yamamoto philosophy.

One of the pioneers of avant-garde in fashion, an evangelist of Japanese design aesthetics Yohji Yamamoto remains true to the rules of his beloved deconstructivism. Elongated cardigans and jackets, long pants, V-shaped cuts, multilayer skirts, asymmetrical ruffles  —  all the outfits from the SS 2021 Ready-to-Wear collection remind of the enigmatic manner of Yamamoto, which can rightly be considered the quintessence of the present. Ah yes, speaking of the choice of colour — it’s black & white only that have been featured by the brand on the runway. To be totally honest, mostly black. 

Paris Fashion Week S/S 2021 in full swing

Paris Fashion Week or PFW for short is successfully taking place this year, having taken over from its Milan sister on September 28. It’s not even a week — a series of both online and life presentations and fashion shows will last till October 06. For obvious reasons, digital events prevail, while offline shows are available by invitation only. Unlike the Milan event, the organizers of Paris Fashion Week decided not to mix Women’s and Men’s wear on the show (this season of PFW is Femme only).

Such fashion giants as Christian Dior, Balmain, Dries Van Noten, and Kenzo have already showcased their SS 2021 collections. Fashion shows by Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Maison Margiela, and Mugler are yet to see the upcoming week. However, there are also those who are absent, and we are really looking forward to seeing them next time: Celine, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Off-White, and Lanvin. On the eastern flank also a few casualties remain: Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe have put it off for a while (fortunately, Yohji Yamamoto hasn’t).

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