Art Digest: November 30—December 06

By Dezember 6, 2020 No Comments

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: November 30—December 06

What is beauty? The question sounds pretty obvious and, yet, immense, so many possible meanings it embodies. It’s the same as asking what life is or what art is (Oscar Wilde used to equate the both). This week we’re looking for an answer together with fashion designers Pierpaolo Piccioli (Maison Valentino), JW Anderson, models Zendaya and Ellie Goldstein, and an art photographer Uldus Bakhtiozina. In case you get a bit oversaturated with speculation, there is a piece of amusing news on a ‘Project Runway’ participant christened a visionary on the Web for his last year’s collection. Let’s get it started!

C I N E M A / A R T 

Fisherman’s daughter, surreal fairytale by art photographer 

St. Petersburg-based art and fashion photographer Uldus Bakhtiozina has presented a new film Fisherman’s daughter’, where she acted as a director, a producer and a script writer at once. In 2017 and 2018 she tried her hand in filmmaking, coming up with a couple of shorts. This time it has been serious. ‘Fisherman’s daughter’ is a 70-minute-long movie, which has officially come out in a few Moscow cinemas. Though there is no news on international premiere yet, an enthralling teaser is something. 

To cut a long story short, Uldus Bakhtiozina’s work is about the hard way of archetypal femininity in the world of invincible bureaucracy. A young girl Polina Schukina who wants to get away from earthly woes enters the fairytale (not that easy, of course, but with the help of a magical tea) and finds herself… in a nightmare. To become a real tsarevna (Russian for ‘princess’) she needs to wait in a line, go through trials, and just prove she is the best to a cynical secretary who has seen girls like that a hundred times. ‘Fisherman’s daughter’ is a surreal fairytale closely connected with the realities of life. A perfect visual story with a soft touch of humor, it makes one reflect on the price of ethereal illusions

F A S H I O N 

Designer named Kovid foresaw the popularity of facial masks even before the pandemic 

Laughter and sin. A year ago we had a hidden warning of what 2020 was going to be for all of us. If only we could read that! Setting aside pathos, let’s take a closer look at the story. Season 17 of the famous fashion design show ‘Project Runway’, 2019. The jury introduces a new challenge to the contestants, which is to create a head-to-toe printed look. No sooner said than done. One of the designers whose name is Kovid Kapoor presented a red plaid suit… accompanying a facial mask. Yes, it’s the real name of the designer (Sanskrit for ‘intelligent/poet’). No, he claims having had no idea about the upcoming pandemic. 

The show fans had occasionally posted ‘revealing’ tweets about the coincidence, until ‘Project Runway’ host Karlie Kloss finally saw it. As for the ‘man of the hour’, Kovid Kapoor, he seems to be taking it easy. His response to the audience claims on Twitter and TikTok are crying-laughing emojis. He has also given a comment to Huffington Post, where he expressed his gratitude to the project and told about the most bizarre guesses people would make about his ‘prophetic’ suit design. By the way, Kapoor is launching his debut collection in February 2021. Interesting enough, what implications it may hide… 

Actress Zendaya becomes the face of Valentino 

Maison Valentino chose the 24-year-old actress and singer Zendaya Coleman to represent the brand. After showcasing his SS 2021 ready-to-wear collection at Milan Fashion Week, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino’s creative director, decided to alter the course focusing on the general perception of the Maison in the audience. As you can guess, the easiest way to work upon the label’s image is to think upon the new means of its representation, such as inviting a new face.  

 ‘She is a powerful and fierce young woman that uses her talent and her work to express herself, her values and her generation as well’, explains Piccioli his choice of Zendaya.

Zendaya Coleman who is famous for her roles in the Spider-Man sequel as well as the HBO drama series Euphoria is no stranger to the world of haute couture. She has been ambassador for Lancôme and Bulgari, let alone her collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger in 2019. Young, bright, and talented, the actress revitalizes the brand’s image in her coming and establishes a new Valentino’s epoch to be named romantismo nuovo. Regular shapes, golden studs, pointy toes, black’n’white colors, the newly-minted Diary Collection 2021 inspired by Roman architecture features Zendaya and is already on view

18-year-old disabled model appears on Allure cover

Essex-born Ellie Goldstein is 18, and she has a Down syndrome. However, that doesn’t prevent the girl neither from enjoying her life, nor from following her goals. And the goals are big: Ellie wants to be famous. In fact, she already is (to some extent): e.g. this summer she appeared in Gucci Beauty Instagram campaign in partnership with Vogue Italia, earlier she partnered with Nike and Vodafone

It all started when Ellie’s mother, Yvonne, took the girl to Zebedee Management talent agency, just before her 15th anniversary. Zebedee Management works with disabled people, performers and models, granting them good opportunities in the world outside. Thus, the agency gladly accepted Goldstein and helped her to set a modeling career. Recently Ellie Goldstein has gone on a digital cover of Allure, which is a part of The Beauty of Accessibility, a special series on inclusivity launched by the magazine. Though the idea of featuring disabled models in vogue campaigns doesn’t always find support within society, lots of people understand and appreciate that. The messages like ‘She has to have one of the sweetest faces I’ve ever seen’ and ‘As a handicapped person, I’m so happy someone is finally representing us’ are among the comments on Ellie’s debut in Allure

New JW Anderson capsule collection alludes to Oscar Wilde 

Jonathan Anderson has recently launched a new capsule collection, seeking inspiration in the works and personality of the late Victorian author Oscar Wilde. Not only JW Anderson and Wilde have the same North Irish roots, they also share similar aesthetics, which hasn’t been left unnoticed by the brand. It all started with Anderson having discovered a piece of paper signed by Wilde and citing: ‘The secret of life is in art’. 

That’s how the ball has been set rolling. The new JW Anderson x Oscar Wilde collection features cropped crochet jumpers, T-shirts, sweatshirts, elongated button-up shirts, let alone jewelry, hats, and bags. All the items from the collection have any references to Wilde’s heritage, such as quotes, flower patterns, and expressive collars. Available exclusively on JW Anderson’s website and in the flagship London store (as soon as UK lockdown measures are eased). 

JW Anderson x Oscar Wilde capsule collection. Courtesy of JW Anderson

JW Anderson x Oscar Wilde capsule collection. Courtesy of JW Anderson

JW Anderson x Oscar Wilde capsule collection. Courtesy of JW Anderson

On the cover: from ‘Fisherman’s daughter’ film by Uldus Bakhtiozina. Courtesy of Reflection Films

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