It’s beautiful that this week has been topped by St. Valentine’s day. However, what’s even more exciting, the long-awaited New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2021 (digital — out of options so far) has just taken off these days. Get ready to discover PH extensive review of the collections very soon, meanwhile we can vanish into the foretaste together with Pantone Colour Institute, which knows something about the upcoming event… Actually, NYFW might come as a fresh breath for all us mainly tracking European fashion, and that’s what makes it important. Yet we’re still into Italian-French sort of things, hearing the news about the local brands and designers with gusto. So, it’s time we load up with some knowledge of trends, big names from the world of vogue, and just our own expectations to break into the most fashionable days of the season!
F A S H I O N
Mischievous Leprechaun and fervent Fuchsia: Pantone forecasts the NYFW color palette
Pantone Color Institute keeps on tirelessly setting the world color trends, all the more now, in the precarious times of the pandemic. Most of us were somewhat surprised to find out the new shade of red inspired by periods last autumn, yet the Institute seems to be capable of far more courageous and independent statements. Pantone has defined the color palette for the upcoming New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2021, and the salient point here is: all shades chosen should be fused together in any combination, though, no doubt, they can stand on their own at the will of the owner.
‘We can’t say that people have more time to get creative, because if you’re working at home, time is still an issue. Nevertheless, you try to get creative because of the boredom, and the sameness that’s around you. That can be reflected in the clothing that you’re wearing,’ explains Leatrice Eiseman, Pantone Color Institute executive director.
The choice of the NYFW colors has been driven by the pesky pandemic ‘sit-at-home-get-on-Zoom’ lifestyle, or rather exhaustion from that. The Institute experts call on awakening our imagination and succumbing to experiments, the bolder, the better. By the way, the latter can be said of the shades, each of them bursting with joie de vivre and vigour. Mykonos Blue, ‘very crisp and refreshing’, kind of washes us over with pure ocean waves, while the eye-opening Illuminating yellow (which, by the way, has been appointed Pantone’s 2021 Color of the Year, together with Ultimate Gray) powers with boundless optimism. The pulsing Fuchsia Fedora sounds like an invitation to the Rio Carnival and Leprechaun makes one think either of the juicy green Amazonian rainforests or Irish folklore. Pale Rosette is also in the play: a ‘baby blanket color’, it will be there to wrap you up, when the world around whirls and howls impossibly. Among the colors in the palette there are also Adobe, Rhodonite, Spring Lake, Coconut Cream, Soybean and etc. Don’t put off to discover them all!
The 24-year-old Charles de Vilmorin to become Rochas creative director
Becoming a brand’s creative director at 24? A recent graduate of La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Charles de Vilmorin proves it’s possible. It’s Rochas, the Paris-based haute couture maison founded in the far 1925, that decided to offer the 24-year-old de Vilmorin a top position in the company. The aspiring designer expressed himself in a loud voice while presenting his Couture SS 2021 collection in January and, thus, won the favor of the High Fashion Maitre, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac himself. Yet Charles de Vilmorin doesn’t even think of abandoning his own label — the designer plans to keep developing his pet project parallel to assuming his duties at Rochas.
Actually, it’s not that simple — I mean, regarding de Vilmorin’s appointment. The fashion designer’s great-aunt Louise de Vilmorin was a heiress and a friend of Hélène Rochas, the wife of the founder of the maison, Marcel Rochas. So, it would be correct to say that Charles’ provenance played a big role in the case as well as his introduction to the brand’s aesthetics. ‘Rochas represents for me a real charm, <…> a symbol of purity and elegance, of freshness. Rochas DNA’s and my own will be able to combine to continue writing this beautiful Rochas story,’ Charles de Vilmorin excitedly shares. Well, a brand like Rochas, (which, in the PH humble opinion is capable of embodying the spirit of a most unfathomable archetype like that of Magician) deserves having such a passionate, bright lead as de Vilmorin. Good luck and endless inspiration to him!
Saga of the knights: meet Celine Homme Winter 2021 show
Still on the subject of young up-and-comers in the fashion industry, let’s glance at Hedi Slimane, Celine’s creative and image director. Slimane has covered the position since 2018, having previously worked for Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent. Yet it’s not the age of the Celine current CD (Hedi Slimane is 52, by the way, which doesn’t sound that tender), but rather his photographic background that makes his case so interesting. For more than two years now Slimane has been coming up with unusual ideas for the Maison, and here’s what he has concocted for the Homme Winter 2021 collection.
Instead of the real fashion show, a short film ‘Teen Knight Poem’ has been produced for the new men’s collection. The title just perfectly conveys the plot and the spirit of the narrative: young boys with shaggy hair and waving flags in their hands ride horses to an ivory castle. No, they don’t want to set Goldilocks free, but rather intend to stroll across the castle turrets on the soundtrack ‚Time Slip‘ performed by The Loom. ‘Teen Knight Poem’ sings a sort of gothic, bellicose romance, which might be described as puritanic as well. Rebellious leather jackets, rough metals, and sequins frayed pants are counterbalanced by starched collars, loose knitted jumpers, and plaid shirts put under the flapping capes. It seems like Hedi Slimane drew inspiration from the new generation of fashion lovers, unshackled and focused at once. What’s also good, the looks from the ‘Teen Knight Poem’ Homme FW 2021 collection are perfectly wearable in day-to-day life. It’s up to you whether to chase windmills or tackle more serious issues in such an outfit — it’s attention grabbing anyway.
All shades of pink: That’s how SS 2021 collections smell like
Journalists from the world’s no.1 fashion bulletin Vogue have recently come up with some forecasts on 2021 color trends. Vogue experts have examined the Spring/Summer collections by the leading fashion brands and… it’s the color pink that will be running the show during the next 6 months, they say. Should they have viewed the catwalk through the rose-tinted glasses, no one knows, but the outlook sounds rather sweet and soothing — so much haunted by the reality we might feel today. So the phantasy world is waiting for all fashionistas to slide therein right now.
Yet the couturiers choose different ways of falling into a dreamiest shade in the upcoming season. For example, Bottega Veneta seeks no compromise while creating a total pink look with a short-sleeved sweatshirt, pants, sandals, sunglasses, and other accessories, all pale mauve. Brands like Alexander McQueen, Prada, and Proenza Schouler confine themselves just to adding color rose to the principal item of the outfit, be it a pantsuit or a tutu dress. Feel like an escapist? Then opt for Dolce Gabbana baby pink-colored gowns. If you rather prefer passion and energy, pay close attention to SS 2021 collections by the likes of Valentino, Stella McCartney, and Balmain with their versions of fluorescent pink.
S O C I A L A C T I V I S M
FKA Twigs collaborates with Getty Images to support Black history narrative
In case you are not exactly sure, FKA Twigs is an English singer and actress. Born Tahliah Debrett Barnett, she started her performing career at the age of 17, dancing at the backup in music videos by some celebrities. Her pseudonym was born as someone called her Twigs for the way her joints cracked. However, since there already was a collective called The Twigs, the singer decided to add the FKA (first known as) abbreviation to her name, that’s how it was stuck.
If you want to discover FKA Twigs’ talent, check her LP1, Melissa, and Magdalena albums or what’s fresh. Back on point, the artist has recently engaged into social collaboration, aiming at supporting black people and paying tribute to their history. Her partner in crime this time is visual media company Getty Images, and as you may guess the collaboration focuses on visual content, in particular, disclosing it. The company will donate images related to Black history from the world’s largest archive for non-commercial use, thus, encouraging educational, research, and mentoring initiatives on the topic. ‘We were discussing how powerful it would be to make this content available to Black creators and educators – enabling us to put these pieces together and make our history accessible for generations to come,’ FKA Twigs told the press. The collaboration will be launched this year, further details of the project might be released in the next few months.
On the cover: Celine Hommes‘ Fall/Winter 2021 collection. Courtesy of Celine