Day 2 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, for the first time ever taking place totally online, has finished. On April 5, many brands showcased their collections as video presentations at AIZEL.RU, including MIETSA, AMPLITUDA, N.LEGENDA, NASTYA NEKRASOVA, Mineral Weather, SEMILETOVA, DOKUCHAEVA, DIANA ARNO, WHO I AM, RomaUvarovDesign, ÓNOMA:, MADFRENZY, Olya Kosterina, T3CM, RUBAN, Novaya, and IGOR GULYAEV. Ceremony, LEATHER LIKE WOOD, SERAYA, and TSUGI presented their new lookbooks.
ÓNOMA:
The ÓNOMA: brand, started by Sandra Gutsati and Inna Bodrova in 2017, specializes in embroidery and appliqués that transform dresses into moving pictures. Their new collection was presented in the form of a videoconference between the designers and the models, all stuck at home because of the quarantine. The designers make all their embroideries themselves, presenting the audience unique complete works that can’t be repeated.
In fact, the collection itself was titled Self-isolation. “This is a good time to start feeling things – keener and deeper. This is time for intuition and harmonization, for purification and accumulation. This the time to feel unity through the unity of the position all of us are in. We are there alone – and yet we’re together, bound with hundreds of invisible threads, connecting us through walls and distances. We’re together” tell the designers of their new creation. Embroideries on the dresses show images of people that used to surround us and that are far away now.
ÓNOMA
ÓNOMA
ÓNOMA
RUBAN
Sisters Alisa and Julia Ruban founded the RUBAN brand in 2010. Several iconic awards confirmed their success and made them assured they’d chosen a correct direction for their designer duo development. Fine work with delicate fabrics, mostly natural ones, combinations of complex textures, layering and transformability are the distinguishing features of the brand.
RUBAN brand continues the story of the Fall/Winter collection 2020-2021, but this time online, complementing the story with a lookbook and a QR code system. The designers focused on self-cognition. This is how they ended up with a brand-specific collection, following the spirit of intellectual minimalism with its fundamentally new content.
Sheepskin jackets, long dresses of thick black velvet and coats of terracotta and brown made up a fascinating assortment of tender, yet very solid garments, inspired by the drawings of Santiago Ramon y Cajal, a Spanish scientist, one of the founders of neurobiology. His drawing style became the starting point for the key pattern of the duo’s collection and the art features within the design. Light marine tones were also seen on the bright striped shirts, while the dresses showed off intricate diagrams of Cajal’s graphs and schematics.
RUBAN
RUBAN
RUBAN
T3CM
As designer Dmitry Klyuchevsky himself states in his video presentation, he decided to model his own collection himself. The new T3CM collection is dedicated to the story of the collapse of Rana Plaza building. “I photographed several labels in the nearest supermarket, chose the ones transmitting globalization issues and used them to make appliqués and prints,” said the brand designer Dmitry Klyuchevsky. The collection is a public statement about the negative side of globalization.
This new offering by the artistic Kyuchevsky is composed of artistic outerwear (all painted with abstract art or graphic prints made up from cut-up corporate logos), and was fully filmed at the designer’s own home. Oversized coats and sweatshirts, cut-up suits, trench coats and sweaters, and Rana Plaza logos showed us a conceptual yet modern streetwear critique of corporatism and globalization.
T3CM
T3CM
T3CM
WHO I AM
The WHO I AM project, started in 2013 by Jacob Yakubov is a multifunctional art project that comprises an art space, a jewelry and fashion brand and a production facility. The WHO I AM manifesto proclaims ethical, slow fashion and conscious consumption first and foremost, with a focus on individualism, minimalism and classic silhouettes.
The brand presents its fully handmade collection in the oldest Moscow-based concept store, LEFORM. Titled BALANCE, the collection included men’s and women’s woolen suits, long sleeves, turtlenecks, sweatshirts, trousers, as well as every day and evening gowns. A wide range of outerwear is available: down jackets, raincoats, bomber jackets, and overcoats. The designers also offered several interpretations of the classic white shirt. Particular attention was paid to sport-style pieces: hoodies, sweatshirts, and trousers for comfortable flights, sport activities, and meditation. The authentic WHO I AM spirit is still present in the collection, but the designers have abandoned the extremely precise and sophisticated designs in favor of comfort and variety. Their garments have become more affordable, while the quality of materials is as high as before.
WHO I AM
WHO I AM
WHO I AM
DOKUCHAEVA
Anastasia Dokuchaeva’s brainchild, first started in 2017, made its return to the runway after becoming one of the most recognized Russian fashion brands. Dokuchaeva’s entire modus operandi is “out with the old, in with the new”, freedom from cultural, gendered and societal restraints.
Her new creation is BASE – a mix & match assortment of looks for any occasion. The BASE collection is just that – a base for one’s wardrobe, that one can swap and combine as one wishes. Faux-leather coats accessorized with masks, light summery trenches and robes, free-fitting shirts of white linen – this is a set for the free and easygoing, who love to accessorize and feel comfortable in their own skin.
DOKUCHAEVA
DOKUCHAEVA
DOKUCHAEVA
Let us remind you that virtual Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia is taking place on April 4 to 6. Live streams can be followed from anywhere in the world at AIZEL.RU и MEGOGO.NET.
DJ GROOVE is responsible for the musical accompaniment of digital #MBFWRussia.
