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/NEWS/

BERLIN PHOTO WEEK – 26 August – 3 September 2021 — Punk! exhibition — LEICA show featuring H.Koelbl, D.Wenders + X.Bender

By /NEWS/

Funplace_BERLIN PHOTO WEEK_2019_Foto Kolja Eckert

BERLIN PHOTO WEEK - 26 August - 3 September 2021 -- Punk! exhibition -- LEICA show featuring H.Koelbl, D.Wenders + X.Bender
26 August 2021 marks the opening of the third edition of Berlin Photo Week (BPW). Following its huge success in 2019 at Kraftwerk Berlin, this year BPW will feature high-profile exhibitions at and around Arena Berlin as well as a number of satellite venues in Berlin, such as the Villa Grisebach exhibition space. Numerous talks and panels, workshops, award ceremonies, and much more are also planned around the exciting brands of the international imaging market. The photography festival will be rounded off by live acts, music acts, the popular Funplace, and engaging outdoor offerings. Long live photography!
To curate and launch this multifaceted festival, the organizers called together an accomplished Creative Board comprised of internationally renowned experts, collectors, and photo industry professionals. These include photography expert and licensed appraiser Simone Klein (Cologne/Paris), collector and art patron P.C. Neumann (Berlin/Zurich), and art director and general representative of Leica Galleries International Karin Rehn-Kaufmann (Salzburg). With their excellent networks and expertise, the BPW Creative Board members perform advisory and curatorial duties and develop new concepts and formats, thereby expanding the globally oriented strategy of this young, prominent festival.
KOELBL • WENDERS • BENDER | Three Photographers – Three Generations
The legendary camera manufacturer Leica is world-renowned for its long tradition, its global and award-winning photographers, and a reputation that is second to none. Whether in the field of reportage, portraiture, or documentary photography – Leica is more than just a brand; Leica is a way of life. Featuring singular insights into the lives of Germans, poetic and essayistic works going beyond classical notions of the image, opulent reportages far removed from common clichés – this special exhibition has been curated by Karin Rehn-Kaufmann exclusively for Berlin Photo Week. On display at Arena Berlin, it presents the work of three renowned photographers – Herlinde Koelbl, Donata Wenders, and Xiomara Bender – who view the world with very individual perspectives, placing it in their own aesthetic frames. The Leica exhibition includes a number of series by each photographer and is complemented by texts and videos. A talk with the artists will also take place during BPW.

George Hoyningen-Huene_The Divers, Swimwear by Izod, 1930_copyright George Hoyningen-Huene Estate Archives

Photo GENESIS BREYER P-ORRIDGE Topless Poor-trait – Courtesy Collection PC Neumann Berlin_large

Another exhibition highlight shines the spotlight on punk and its unique aesthetics. More than 50 years ago, the punk movement, with its broad repertoire of protest practices against prevailing conditions, became the catalyst of a social and cultural avant-garde. Punk did not go with the flow; on the contrary, its protagonists released their own flood of energy and ignited a fire that has not extinguished to this day. The notion of radical upheaval it embodies persists to this day, manifesting in multifaceted forms of artistic expression. Curated from the PC Neumann Collection, this dynamic group exhibition invites visitors to the Arena Club for a very special experience. The walk-in installation is enriched by a musical work composed for the show by the well-known music producer Lutz Fahrenkrog-Petersen. Typical of the era, it epitomizes the enduring, explosive power of the artistic aesthetics of punk. Punk is not dead – punk will never die.
Berlin Photo Week is a conceptually and economically independent project that can be seen and experienced throughout Berlin, featuring a central creative location with event satellites. The founding team of this innovative event format has joined forces with new strategic partners, Messe Berlin GmbH and IMH Imaging Media House GmbH & Co. KG, to stage its third edition and further develop the photography festival. www.berlinphotoweek.com
Contact for questions, press photos, and interviews:
Nadine Dinter PR l Fasanenstrasse 70, 10719 Berlin | Tel: (0)30/398 87 411 l Email: presse@nadine-dinter.de

MBFW RUSSIA IS TAKING PLACE ON APRIL, 20-24

By /NEWS/
MBFW RUSSIA IS TAKING PLACE ON APRIL, 20-24

Shows of the new season of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia are scheduled on April 20-24 at the Museum of Moscow. Besides the main program in Moscow, the shows will take place in Kazan, Nizhny Novgorod, St. Petersburg, and Sochi. The united MBFW Russia’s program will include live streamed shows by designers from Italy, Spain, France, and other countries.

50+ designers are expected to join MBFW Russia this time. New collections will be presented by /SELFÉTUDE, N. LEGENDA, NASTYA NEKRASOVA, ÓNOMA, SERGEY SYSOEV, Yana Besfamilnaya, ELENA SOUPROUN, HARD BY HSE ART AND DESIGN SCHOOL, JULIA DALAKIAN, ALENA NEGA, Lena Karnauhova, Mercedes De Alba, B&D Institute of Business and Design, and others. Mercedes-Benz is also delighted to present Emma Bruschi for the first time on the MBFW Russia schedule – a designer acknowledged by Mercedes-Benz and Fashion Open Studio for best eco-sustainable practices at the International Festival of Hyères. On April 7, designers will be announced that won the grants for participation in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia.

Virtual venue of MBFW Russia will be a unique digital platform with gamification elements, exclusive materials from designers, as well as content and insights offered by industry experts. At the digital platform, MBFW Russia live streams from anywhere globally will be available. Moreover, interactive online features will offer a dive into the spirit of the event. You can register at http://mbfwrussia.ru/en right now, all the features will become available on April 20.

“2020 was tough for the entire industry, and Russian designers are no exception. It was a challenge for the Fashion Week team – we managed to arrange a phygital MBFW Russia in autumn 2020, and we also seized the moment to develop our project and support designers online. This year, we’ve focused on starting a large-scale transformation of the Fashion Week. MBFW Russia is switching to a closed production cycle, bringing the sustainable fashion into the spotlight. Besides, we extend our presence in the digital space, and this is also a part of our sustainable development concept for the fashion industry,” said Alexander Shumsky, President of Russian Fashion Council and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, Co-founder of Fashion Fund.

This time, the traditional symbol of the Fashion Week – the Infanta – was designed by artist Kirilll Zukclub (aka Well Known Artist). Digitalization, ethical fashion, inclusivity and diversity – these are the guidelines followed by MBFW Russia that inspired the artist in making the digital look for the Fashion Week. The Infanta is modern and yet somehow embodies the trend for nostalgic for the past – her dress is decorated with some graffiti and interfaces of legacy digital design software.

Make sure to stay with us and follow the news updates at our official websites

Analogue Photography 3d Virtual Exhibition

By /NEWS/
Analogue Photography 3d Virtual Exhibition

On April the 10th, Hazegallery will present a new virtual exhibition, “Analogue Photography“ featuring works by contemporary young artists working on film photography.

Eight photographers from different countries will represent at the exposition their works

Film photography took an important place in the history of photography, as well as a special genre

Despite the fact that the modern world offers a huge number of opportunities to simplify the creation of photographs, many photographers remain faithful to this genre.

Why? The limited number of frames makes you think more carefully about the choice of the frame and all its components. An unpredictable result surrounds the whole process with a special magical veil until the very moment the photographs are developed.

Film photography is magic you can create yourself

Participating Artists:
Anna Tytarenko
Lara Micheli
Noemi Heidel
Felix Chirinos
Élyse De La Croizetière
MINIMAN
Katya Stelmashchuk
Ekaterina Kozlova

Curator: Iren Russo, Sasha Grigg
Coordinator: Lyubov Melnickowa

For press material and interview requests please contact:
Iren Russo| Olivaer Platz 17 10707 Berlin | Email: contact@haze.gallery

Art Digest: March 15—20

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: March 15—20

To breathe a bit of freshness into the column, I would love to introduce you to the Asian scene of visual arts today. Just as exciting as the European and the American counterparts, the art and fashion world of Japan and Korea have a lot to impress the Western minds. Not without reason Berlin gallerist Johann König has set his sight on the Seoul art market, while Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo justly belongs to the Top 5 global fashion weeks. Yōkoso, AD: March 15—20! 

*yōkoso [ようこそ] — Japanese for ‘welcome’

C O N T E M P O R A R Y   A R T 

Yayoi Kusama’s early works never exhibited before are expected to raise a fortune at auction 

Even for those who believe themselves Yayoi Kusama’s art connoisseurs, that might come as a surprise. Bonhams auctions off the three early paintings and eight works on paper by the world’s famous Japanese artist, which she gifted to her doctor Teruo Hirose. The pieces originate from the private collection of the late Teruo Hirose (the doctor passed away in 2019 at the age of 93) and taken together, are estimated to fetch between $8.8 million and $14 million during the sales at Bonhams New York, which take place from April 30 till May 12, 2021.

Hirose, Kusama’s countryman, met the artist in New York in the late 1950s agreeing to provide some pro bono medical services for her. Yayoi Kusama gave the savior a couple of her artworks in gratitude, including ‘Mississippi River’ and ‘Hudson River’ (1960). Bonhams post-war and contemporary global head Ralph Taylor claims the works are rare not only because of their incredible provenance but also due to the exceptional character of Kusama’s early oeuvre with some features and themes emerging to be developed throughout her further career. The ‘River’ paintings have never been exhibited in public before.

Not just a poodle: Masayoshi Matsumoto amazes with his balloon animal sculptures 

Today the artists are so free to choose the materials to work with that one will hardly be surprised seeing artworks made of, let’s say air or human tears. Yet excellence and vivid imagination of some artists never ceases to amaze. That’s the story of the Yokohama-based artist Masayoshi Matsumoto, who uses nothing but balloons while creating his incredible animal sculptures. The artist aims at recreating the physical form of the subject, thus, he puts effort into selecting the right kind of texture, color, and twists the material until it takes shape. 

‘When they hear the term ‘balloon art’, many people imagine a poodle or such, but I would like people to realize that there is an area of this art form that takes time to create complex works too.’ (Masayoshi Matsumoto) 

Indeed, Matsumoto replicates any living creatures, including not the most obvious ones when it comes to balloon art, such as oxen, lemurs, butterflies, koala bears, peacocks etc. And the most surprising thing is, he avoids using glue or other adhesive materials in work, neither he resorts to decoration. The artist’s balloon animals delight with the veracity of color and form, each of them having a unique character and even a particular eye expression, which is more than enough. Feel like following Masayoshi Matsumoto’s lead? Good news, the artist shares his skills in YouTube tutorials. Or you can just enjoy Matsumoto’s new works on his Instagram, which is pretty popular, by the way, for not a society man.

F A S H I O N 

A few words about Tokyo Rakuten Fashion Week 

The show must go on, and it goes (I am talking of vogue now). Tokyo’s Rakuten Fashion Week, which enters the Fab Five of the world’s fashion weeks, has just finished. Taking place twice a year, in autumn and spring, Rakuten represents Japanese couturiers, both world-renowned and emerging ones. This time, Tokyo Fashion Week took place from March 15—20, featuring around 35 brands/51 designers, one third of which, in their turn, provided physical presentations of their Fall/Winter 2021 collections. As would be expected, the latest Rakuten season both consisted of online shows and in-person events with a minimal number of viewers allowed, balancing between the fashionable celebration of life and the national state of emergency due to the pandemic. 

Glancing at TFW schedule, one would love seeing a few well-known names from the world of fashion, including Tae Ashida and Hiroko Koshino, while also discovering some cheerful up-and-comers, such as the Men’s RTW brand De_caffeine homme (est. 2018) and the Women’s label Adelly (f. 2014). Don’t be surprised encountering a couple of old mates: Ka Wa Kai and KoH T landed at Rakuten, right after showcasing their collections at the February New York Fashion Week, here how it was. It’s also striking that the TFW curators diversified the program by adding some cultural activities into it, such as the series of events linked to the Fashion in Japan 1945-2020 exhibition, which runs at the National Art Center Tokyo until June 09. Vogue columnist Kira had the pleasure of seeing Rakuten Fashion Week shows firsthand and provided a detailed coverage for all those who wished they had been also present. 

A R T   M A R K E T 

Berlin gallerist Johann König targets at Korean art market 

Berlin art dealer, author of the acclaimed memoir ‘Blinder Galerist’ (Blind Gallerist) Johann König has announced the opening of a new art space in Seoul. König Seoul, that’s what the place is called, occupies the fifth floor of the MCM Haus, a luxury clothing brand based in the posh district of Gangnam. ‘Korea has a strong position in the art market, so we are excited to be presenting our program to the Korean audience,’ König says in the statement, explaining his decision to collaborate with MCM.

König Seoul, which opens on April 03, represents such established artists who Johann König has already worked with back home, such as Erwin Wurm, Jeppe Hein, Katharina Grosse, and Alicja Kwade. There are already some less well-known names including Trey Abdella and Conny Maier, who, with the help of the talented gallerist stand a good chance to become famous. The Gangnam-based gallery will be the third art venue established by Johann König, following his flagship König Galerie in Berlin, which emerged at the place of a Brutalist church, and its London branch. König institutions regularly issue an eponymous thematic magazine, while the gallerist himself records an interesting podcast Was Mit Kunst, where he discusses the most vital issue of arts with his colleagues from the field, i.e. artists, curators, art publishers etc.

On the cover: Tokyo Fashion Week Rakuten Fall 2021. Photo: Kira / Tokyofashion.com

Purplehazemagazine is calling for Photography & Art for PRINT 006

By /NEWS/
Purplehazemagazine is calling for Photography & Art for PRINT 006

‘Gender is not something that one is, it is something one does; it is a sequence of acts, a doing rather than a being.’ said Judith Butler, famous American philosopher and gender theorist. Do you agree? Likely, as an artist you got something to say about this. If so, don’t miss an open-call for the next print issue of Purplehaze titled ‘Genderless’. Works in different mediums such as illustration, sculpture, photography, and multimedia arts are accepted.

Deadline for submissions is July 01.

The #006 Genderless print issue of Purplehaze comes out in September.

Please submit to submissions@purplehazemag.com

Art Digest: March 08—14

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: March 08—14

It’s so gratifying that good things never come alone. Slowly but surely, spring is taking possession, and now we choose even lighter materials to put on, while the soul is singing together with the birds, which have come back from the south. The haute couture season is also in full swing. A few days ago the Paris Fashion Week FW 2021—2022 was finalized, and it was quite a spectacle. Counter-intuitively, however, we are not going to cover the vogue event now, stepping aside a bit in favor of art installations, skillfully illustrated books, and exclusive photographs. 

As usually, the creative fields are not clearly distinguished, but rather channelled here. One of the world’s most famous artists denudes his past as a fashion illustrator (find material evidence is attached); a talented designer gets back to his photographic background, while another couturier has never deviated from his enthusiasm for arts and successfully integrated it into his work. Enough with the puzzles, let’s take off with the Art Digest of the week! 

A R T 

A rare cookbook illustrated by Andy Warhol auctions off 

No doubt it’s the Campbell’s soup tins canvases that made Andy Warhol’s name recognizable in the art world. Today almost everyone has heard of or seen reproductions of Marilyn Monroe Diptych, Eight Elvises, and Green Coca Cola Bottles by the Pop Art King. However, not that many people know that young Andy started off as a commercial illustrator primarily sketching for fashion magazines. For that reason, the news of Warhol’s self-published book full of playful recipes going to auction might surprise most of his fans. Bonhams auction house bids the artist’s rare 1959 cookbook created together with the interior decorator Suzie Frankfurt. The book’s sound title Wild Raspberries is an allusion to Wild Strawberries, the quintessential Ingmar Bergman’s film (1957). 

‘The books perfectly capture the puckish nature of much of Warhol’s work’ 
(Book and Manuscript specialist at Bonhams New York, Darren Sutherland)

Jokingly following the lavish cookbooks fad of the 50s or rather parodying it, Warhol together with Frankfurt published 34 copies of the recipe book, having managed to sell around 20 of them (despite the original ambitions of the artist to make a million on the edition). 

Andy Warhol got to know Frankfurt in his beloved Serendipity ice cream shop, which at night would turn into an art gallery with some of Andy’s drawings on show. The co-authors make fun of the high cuisine of the time in the book, with seeming excitement, discussing such recipes as ‘Omlet Greta Garbo’ (‘always to be eaten alone in a candlelit room’), ‘Gefilte of Fighting Fish’ (‘immerse them in sea water and allow them to do battle until they completely bone each other’), and ‘Seared Roebuck’ (‘ <…> roebuck shot in ambush is infinitely better than roebuck killed after a chase’). Interesting enough, Andy’s mother, Julia Warhol also took part in the process doing the calligraphy. Wild Raspberries is auctioning off at Bonhams NY in March 2021 for an estimated $30,000-$50,000.

Bed of salt cherry petals in the installation by Motoi Yamamoto 

Just imagine: a huge field of white cherry petals in front of an exhibition hall. A well-prepared love confession or, maybe, a grief for the one who left? It turns out to be both. Japanese artist Motoi Yamamoto, who has been using salt in his works since he mourned the death of his beloved sister has created a large-scale installation called Sakura Shibefuru (falling cherry petals) for the Setouchi City Art Museum. The installation features about 100,000 cherry blossom salt petals, which the artist developed one by one, during the nine days of careful work. 

Cherry blossoms here don’t only stand for the beauty of the flower, but also touch upon such eternal topics as the continuous circle of life and death. Sakura Shibefuru is the second Yamamoto’s exhibition hosted by the Setouchi City Art Museum. The artist’s debut took place in 2013, when his Floating Garden (an extended 100m2 structure featuring interconnected white lines and a deep blue ground) was put on display. As for the current exhibition, it also includes two-dimensional works created by Motoi Yamamoto in 1995 in the very beginning of his salt-concept series. You still have time until May 05 to see Yamamoto’s solo show.

P H O T O G R A P H Y 

Solo exhibition by Hedi Slimane opens its doors in Shanghai 

If you watched Celine Homme Winter 2021 show, you might have spotted Hedi Slimane’s love for minimalist aesthetics. The creative director of Maison Celine, Slimane successfully combines his interest in photography and fashion. Having graduated from the École du Louvre in Paris with a degree in Art History, Hedi Slimane began his career in vogue as an assistant to fashion consultant Jean-Jacques Picart, but he wouldn’t give up photography, which, indeed, wasn’t for nothing. 

The fruits of Slimane’s steady work as well as his distinctive concise manner of shooting will be presented at his solo exhibition to open this month in Shanghai at the place called Almine Rech Gallery. Titled Sun of Sound, the exhibit will mark Slimane’s debut in China and become his first solo show over the past 7 years. The Sun of Sound exhibition comes as a homage to the music scene and all its stakeholders, carefully assembled by Slimane during his years of work in the field. In focus are such music stars as Amy Winehouse, Lou Reed, Keith Richards, Brian Wilson, and even Pete Doherty, an emerging British punk rock musician at the time. Besides, get ready to see an immersive sound installation, which introduces the viewer into Slimane’s process of exploration of music.

F A S H I O N 

Issey Miyake introduces a new menswear line 

Wizard of Japanese fashion and founder of the world-known brand, the 82-year-old Issey Miyake is the type of person one can write a book about. Having studied graphic design in his home Tokyo, Miyake went to Paris to be enrolled in the eminent Chambre syndicale de la couture, where, by the way, he made friends with Kenzo Takada (more on the heritage of the late couturier here). Before moving to free floating, Issey Miyake managed to work for such maitres as Guy Laroche, Hubert de Givenchy, and Geoffrey Beene. The designer’s passion for art (Miyake drew inspiration from Isamu Noguchi’s works and appreciated his contact with artists like Christo and Robert Rauschenberg) just boosted his career in fashion. Issey Miyake collections as well as his perfume limes encompass the structuredness of good architecture and the free-thinking abstract vision, which, eventually, have won him international renown and success. 

Issey Miyake Inc. is famous for the few lines hosted by the company, specializing on bags, fragrances, watches, and, surely, different lines of wear both for men and women. In summer 2020 the founder of the brand announced the closing of the Issey Miyake Men. However, it merely meant the concept was to be continued. The new line IM MEN by the Issey Miyake Design Studio has been created to suggest unconventional menswear options — functional, minimalist, nothing extra, just the way Mr. Miyake prefers it. Perfectly cut jackets and pants of some bright yet natural hues, comfortable trench coats, shirts, and shoes all are made of eco-friendly, recycled materials such as plant-based polyester. Over the weekend the line was presented in Issey Miyake’s Aoyama flagship in Tokyo. Looking forward to seeing IM MEN collections in international distribution.

On the cover: Young Andy Warhol and Suzie Frankfurt over a bite. Photo: Michael Ochs Archives / Getty Images

Art Digest: March 01—07

By /BLOG/, /FASHION/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: March 01—07

Top story this week (not only for the art world), spring has finally come! No matter if the weather delights us or not — the calendar doesn’t lie, besides, the sky is so high and blue and there is a special feeling in the air… Since we have skipped our regular column last week, we are catching up with the events we just can’t leave uncovered. Yes, I’m talking about Milan and London Fashion Weeks, which successfully ran in the latter half of February. Let’s move to Europe this time taking our eyes from the spectacular New York event (more of our impressions of the latest NYFW here). Welcome to the Art Digest of the week! 

M I L A N   F A S H I O N   W E E K 

Jimi Hendrix and Rudolf Nureyev: the rebellious creatives inspire Etro FW 2021 collection 

The latest collection by Maison Etro demonstrated at Milan Fashion Week Fall 2021 is, no doubt, a hymn to freedom… and love.

However general that might sound, it really is. British-German singer Arlissa Ruppert opens the show presentation with a wonderful song about the amorous affairs or rather the rules de l’amour, which one can sing karaoke to. Although including live sound in the fashion show is no longer novelty (Yuna singing ‘Dance like nobody’s watching’ for ADEAM immediately springs to mind), it still looks like a winning strategy. Each performer passes on their mood, energy, and vibes to the show. In the case with Etro FW 2021 collection it’s (let me quote the lyrics here) ‘Keep changing, keep swaying <the rules of, rules of love>’.

Swaying here means wearing something loose, even slouchy, like high-waisted, long-tailored pants, bombers, and knitted jumpers carelessly tucked in. Yet Etro is not a regular sport casual brand to make do with that. It’s essential to add a drop of the label’s signature move (of course, I mean Etro’s generic love for using pattern) and a leitmotif of the season, so here it gets interesting. The original founder of the brand, Gimmo Etro bought a large selection of Rudolf Nureyev’s personal wardrobe at auction in 1994. Today Gimmo’s daughter and Etro’s women’s wear director Veronica relates to Nureyev as the protagonist for the Fall Winter 2021 collection, also alluding to singer and guitarist Jimi Hendrix. Ballet inspired patchworks, pirouettes, and riffs are combined in the show with some noble intersias, fancy paisley, and predator prints. Etro’s sophisticated color palette, which stands out through its density and depth, is also there. Elegant, laid back, appealing, and ready-to-wear, we just can’t ask for more. One question left, still, why do male characters inspire Etro women’s fashion? Banal but true, free spirits and artistic minds have no gender (al least, for the heritage). ‘The rules of, rules of love. Sometimes people break ‘em’.

Pierpaolo Piccioli on behalf of Valentino goes radical but stays romantic this season 

I don’t know about you, but on hearing the name of Valentino, I think of two things: color red and romance. The former definitely does not apply to the latest collection by the brand: for Fall 2021 RTW Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino creative director opted for black and white color palette (which, by the way, looked anything but obvious) interspersing it with a couple of golden bursts. As for the latter of the associations, it’s still like that: the brand stays romantic in heart and in deed, while Valentino CD passionately clarifies the meaning of the term: ‘It’s the radical act of having the strength to be who you are; that’s what I mean by romanticism today. It’s a subjective, almost anarchic gesture, assertive of one’s own identity — exactly like punk.’

Right, punk! And a hint of the bespoke sensuality that is manifested in swingy cape coats, elegant stilettos, touching turtlenecks, and lace jabots. A-line skirts from the 60s, massive studs from the punk rock 70s — Valentino gladly recalls the history of fashion as well as its own origins. By the way, it’s the location of the fashion show that deserves no less attention. The presentation was staged in the historic Piccolo Teatro di Milano, which, you guessed it, is still closed for the public because of the pandemic. Yet the authorities considered the shooting of the Valentino Fall 2021 RTW show a sufficient reason to open up the doors of the theatre for a little while. Pierpaolo Piccioli calls it a sort of a punk act. Regarding the soundtrack (well, live songs seem to be gaining popularity among the couturiers), it’s ‘Nothing Compares 2 U’ originally performed by Sinead O’Connor that accompanied Valentino’s show this time. After all, what can compare to a true romantic, an idealistic and a brash one, who isn’t afraid of pursuing his/her craziest dreams?

L O N D O N   F A S H I O N   W E E K 

Stunning Harris Reed’s debut at de-gendered LFW

To begin with, London Fashion Week Fall 2021 goes gender-neutral. That means London Fashion Week Men’s has been incorporated into the event, thus, the couturiers get a free hand to experiment with unisex looks in their collections. Hm, the term ‘unisex’ might sound a bit obsolete here. On looking at Harris Reed’s debut collection, one makes absolutely sure how powerful and morphing genderless outfits can be. The 24-year-old Central Saint Martins graduate and the Harry Styles’ beloved designer, Reed breaks into the Fashion Week with six demi-couture looks featured on the same person. Harris Reed’s collection is all about the striking gowns handmade of the upcycle textiles by the designer himself. 

What the up-and-coming couturier has presented at the latest LFW is not only spectacular but also brilliant: the ironical and contemplative approach of Harris Reed leads him to discover new facets of gender-fluid clothing. First, Harris Reed Fall/Winter 2021 is more about quasi-couture: imbued with artistry and gentility, his looks feature an unusual blend of impeccable elegance and parody. It’s just like the works of contemporary art: performing a caricature of oneself and of the absurd world around, the only difference is that Reed’s garments are also (and necessarily) beautiful. Tuxedo jackets, satin skirts, mermaid hems, pleated tulle — why not bring that all together in one outfit dressing a wonderful person with a passion for expressing themselves/introducing themselves to the world? Add to this a mind-blowing ‘dark romance’ color palette… Let’s just hope binary prejudice is something Harris Reed has never been confronted with and won’t ever be.

P H O T O G R A P H Y 

Wild life as fine art: mesmerizing shots by the South African photographer 

Saturated with European fashion, let’s shift our focus to the region of South Africa, the homeland of wildlife photographer Chris Fallows. Introducing him this way, I’m just as serious. Fallows enjoyed his first safari at the age of two with his father, an amateur wildlife photographer, helping him to turn the son’s fledgling interest into a passion. Chris Fallows started off photographing great whites [sharks], having later switched ‘to other forms of wildlife, particularly predators and iconic species’. Each year the photographer together with his wife spend about 3 months in the wilds of Africa seizing the opportunity to be closer to nature, in the truest sense of the word. 

Since 2015 Chris Fallows has been focusing on elephants, openly expressing his devotion to them. ‘Over the years, I have come to truly love and appreciate them and have got to know an animal that is intelligent, caring, and obviously under huge pressure from humanity,’ the photographer shares. And it shows in his art: elephants in the images look powerful and touching at once, kind and infinitely beautiful. A sense of wisdom and peace comes to one contemplating the shots of large matriarchal herds or solo pachyderms. Among other things, Fallows is interested in spotting the iconic big male tuskers, the last few species left on the African continent, which he frequently devotes his safari trips to. 

On the cover: Harris Reed Fall/Winter 2021 collection. Courtesy of Harris Reed

Wind of change: NYFW transforms but remains

By /BLOG/, /FASHION/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Wind of change: NYFW transforms but remains

Part 2

NYFW: Close-ups 

Alright, having briefly looked through the major trends of the latest NYFW season, we’re moving on to the most interesting part. An overview of the collections, which have just hit the ring, IMHO. The performance of the designers we’re going to discuss below was fresh, unexpected, and really authentic, what else can be valued more now? 

Jason Wu

Jason Wu is a real wizard. Having started off as a Narciso Rodriguez intern, Wu made it to his own practice. The designer has been running his eponymous label since 2006, parallely serving as artistic director of Hugo Boss women’s wear for nearly five years. Meanwhile they went their separate ways with Hugo Boss, Jason Wu’s pet project has proved to be a successful endeavor. Wu is capable of creating garments of sophisticated design and high quality, without neglecting any of the components. His Fall/Winter 2021 collection is a perfect hymn to convenience and impeccable taste.

It feels like we’re watching a CCTV of a supermarket. In the middle of the floor there are crates of fresh fruits and veggies, a sign on the wooden box playfully suggests to share a coke with Jason Wu. Who’s coming? Oh, the fashion show has just begun. Wu’s models confidently navigate through the deli counter, featuring apparels of a discrete color palette interspersed with vibrant strokes. The shades of khaki, cold sand, black or blueberry form the basis, while banana yellow and pink icing are just thrown on top. Actually, the basic element can be intense as well, but here again we need a counter balance, something like a raspberry cape put over a rose sundress.

Patterns? Of course, there might be some, filling in the gaps rather than creating a new picture. Repetitive geometric patterns of an irregular shape grace Jason Wu FW 2021 lightweight-fabric blouses and dresses, resonated with some monolith jewelry: e.g. in the form of a padlock. Surely, the new collection by the brand suggests ready-to-wear solutions for those preferring either smart casual or business casual dress code: symmetrical cutting and explicit silhouettes are combined with some rather mischievous calls like tassels of fringe, swaying belts, and jumpers loosely tucked in the pants.

Follow Jason Wu: @jasonwu

ADEAM

It’s the fashion designer Hanako Maeda, a fragile-looking girl in her early thirties, who stands behind the New York-Tokyo brand ADEAM. Having graduated from Columbia University with a degree in Art History in hand, Maeda returned to her home Tokyo to join the family fashion house. In 2012 the designer decided to launch her own label ADEAM: the brand is soon turning a decade, meanwhile Hanako Maeda herself has done a great job ever since. In her clothes lines the designer fuses Western and Eastern aesthetics, paying special attention to the quality of garments: e.g. by using traditional Japanese techniques, structured tailoring etc. Easy to clean and highly wearable, ADEAM collections also stand out owing to their feminine silhouettes.

A smooth live song anticipating the ADEAM FW 2021 fashion show sets the right mood. ‘Right’ in the sense of romantic, at ease, not without the reason there is a recurring line in the lyrics: ‘Dance like nobody’s watching’. The color palette builds upon the shades of light blue, lace purple, pale rose; though there is room for some brighter colors like burgundy and deep blue, they hardly take precedence in the collection. ADEAM FW 2021 perfectly demonstrates all types of the shaped sleeves: leg o’mutton, bishop, lantern, bell, and Juliette sleeves have been put on the display. A short loose bomber jacket put over an elongated shirt smells of tenderness as well as the flared pants and pleated dresses. Ruffles on the cuffs and in the elbow area, off-the-shoulder sleeves, and head scarfs just add authenticity to the looks.

However, Hanako Maeda avoids making her collection look too definitive. The second part of the show ADEAM Ichi confounds us by the sudden alteration of the course: the sound gets more upbeat, both male and female models enter the catwalk. Overall, ADEAM Ichi goes unisex: most looks featured one can easily imagine on men as well as women. Jackets and oversized pullovers with extra sleeves and a transforming hood, lowered shoulder line, pocketed cargo pants, chain necklace or, otherwise, tab shirt collars — today she can look what she wants, gracefully switching from sport chic to highly feminine fashion.

Follow ADEAM: @adeam

Chelsea Grays

‘I am a political designer! I use fashion to address social issues around the world and create proactive, political fashion,’ Chelsea Grays proudly says in her statement. Working and living between Paris and the US, the aspiring Ohio-born designer actively takes part in fashion weeks as well as professional awards. Her participation in New York Fashion Week this time hasn’t been a debut (she had a successful student showcase at NYFW two years ago), but still a very outstanding performance. A whole story of struggle, despair, and hope placed into 7,5 minutes with a row of fantastic looks from the latest collection and a clear message: paying tribute to 2020. Funny that last autumn, when we did a Q&A with Chelsea on her designing practice during the pandemic, she might have been in the midst of preparation for NYFW… Alright, and now meet Chelsea Grays’ political expression, that is, her FW 2021 collection.

‘Sometimes I feel good in my chest, but I
I can never get that to my head,’ 

On hearing the first chords of the soulful lyrics by Reggae Helms, one starts immersing into the story. In front of the camera there are some men sitting, both persons of color and white skinned ones, all of them young, thirty something. Each of the models looks closely at the camera and walks away, one at a time. In the next episode we see them roaming the streets, aimlessly, desperately, one by one. Where are those young men going? Why don’t they work, spend time with their loved ones, do something they might make them feel needed and alive? Afterall, why can’t they just feel happy? 

‘I need what they give you at the dentist
I don’t wanna feel no more’.

Chelsea Grays admits for her collections she draws inspiration from the figure of artist Jean-Michel Basquiat and the way homeless people are dressed. The latter she sees not only as whimsical, but also inventive. Since Basquiat was a drifter from the art world, who brought street spirit and some particular elements of street culture to arts, everything seems to be overlapped. ‘Homage to 2020’ collection features a very special kind of street casual, which, contrary to common beliefs, is far from the worn-out RTW concepts like faux leather jackets, white T-shirts, and tight jeans. In Chelsea Grays’ version, it’s kilts with noodle turtlenecks, ripped jackets, and paint stained trousers like if one has just left an artist’s studio. The designer graces the vagrant looks with cosy wraps, cowls, mittens, and patches (the latter has already become her signature gesture). Chelsea Gray’s FW 2021 collection is nothing, but a good example of an outside-the-box thinking, which is in great demand today. In fashion, in politics, just everywhere.

Follow Chelsea Grays: @__chelsea.g

Lavie by Claude Kameni

Sunny greetings from Cameroon, or rather, from the Cameroon-born fashion designer Miss Claude Kameni. Having relocated to the US at the age of 8, Kameni came across a fashion class in high school, which jump-started her future career. The self-taught designer launched her label in 2012, calling it Lavie, which means ‘life’ in French. Well, for Claude fashion has truly been her life for a long time. Today Claude Kameni is 26 years old, she is an acknowledged master of African Print, and her LA-based brand keeps flourishing. Actress Tracey Ellis Ross and singer Janet Jackson have opted for Lavie by CK custom designs, while Kameni showcased her collection for the first time in the last season of NYFW, which ran last autumn.

When Claude Kameni virtually debuted with her RTW Spring/Summer 2021 show at NYFW in September, she told it was the ‘Coming to America’ movie that had inspired her to create the line. Alright, the ‘The Royal Empire Collection’ presented this time has turned out to be a sequel to the story. Now it’s even more exciting because the second part of the legendary comedy film is set for a digital release in the beginning of March. It’s also interesting that the A/W 2021 Collection by Lavie by CK was modeled by some notable African fashion influencers. Among them were Nyakim Gatwech aka Queen of the dark and Achieng Agutu aka Confidence Queen (the both models advocate freedom of prejudice and happy-to-be-yourself approach), and also Sir Chidi, a style, fitness, and travel guru. The influencers shared the roles of Queens, Queens Hands, and Male Servants in the video presentation.

Designer Claude Kameni calls her latest project a world where African print meets couture’. And one can’t say fairer than that. On the one hand, ‘The Royal Empire’ collection is a luxury line. Dress ensembles with mermaid tails, majestic gigot sleeves, and enticing cut-outs just take one’s breath away. Even a relatively simple patterned mini-sundress lets the viewer’s imagination run wild. On the other hand, one doesn’t have to dig deep to sense that the collection is laced with love for the local traditions. Sophisticated geometric ornaments on fabrics (for those not privy to the African cultural context, rather reminding of cubists’ paintings or Harlequin prints), gorgeous golden-colored wrist and neck decorations, one-shoulder wraps, and hand-crafted beaded tops look anything, but not habitual. That is not to mention the zealous color palette of the collection: juicy grass-green, hypnotic violet, and vigorous shades of orange and red have manifestly run the show. Well, Lavie by CK, ‘The Royal Empire’ showcase was extraordinary (and so hot that we’d like to cool down now a bit).

Follow Lavie by CK: @laviebyck

Onyrmrk

Founded by Mark Kim and Rwang Pam three years ago, the LA-based brand Onyrmrk (actually pronounced ‘On your mark’) represents collection-based men’s ready-to-wear or the entire philosophy of new masculinity. Perhaps, masculinity is not really the right word here, but you get the point… The designers behind Onyrmrk reflect on what it’s like being a man today, how things are shaped between humans and the environment, what influence city life has on our mind and appearance. And it must be said, they come to interesting conclusions, integrating their insights into the brand’s collections. Striving for sustainability and diversity, Onyrmrk certainly wants to make the world a better place, where everyone enjoys their role and path.

Titled ‘Kinship’, the new collection by Onyrmrk is a surprising combination of the two quite opposite natures: collectiveness and distinctiveness. Following the trend of the year, Onyrmrk rethinks the changes 2020 brought to us, emphasizing the value and power of the we-stay-together’ principle. It shows in the return to the streetwear style of the 90s as well as the discrete allusions to Eastern culture. Organic-textile, multilayered garments of the most natural hues get the audience relaxed and contemplative. By the way, the brand sets a successful example of making top and bottom clothing of the same shade like that of beige, which looks rather harmonious.

Loose coats and shirts, quarter-zip pullovers, balloon pants — in such an outfit one can equally well walk through the blossoming garden, practice yoga or take the subway to work. Headwear inspired by the Middle Eastern clothing highlight the ethical edge of the collection. However, ‘Kinship’ no way feels mainstream. For those fearing to lose their identity, there is a soothing argument: you just won’t. Onyrmrk helps men to express themselves through becoming a part of something bigger. Stacked models, rich plaid patterns, unexpected patches, all those features add authenticity to the looks, while cargo trousers and puffer jackets, by contrast, hold the concept of the line.

Follow Onyrmrk: @onyrmrk

Hence, in terms of fashion sensations 2021 has started out well enough… And there are still three seasons ahead with a number of events to anticipate and enjoy. Don’t forget to peep in your fashion calendar to keep them all in mind 🙂

Wind of change: NYFW transforms but remains

By /BLOG/, /FASHION/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Wind of change: NYFW transforms but remains

Preface

If you identify yourself as a fashion enthusiast and try staying on top of it, you might have mainly spent last week in front of your laptop screen, watching the digital manifestation of New York Fashion Week. Well, so did we. Having slowly started off on February 13 (all eyes were on Ulla Johnson’s boho collection that day), the event lasted until February 18, at least, its major part. Only a limited number of guests were allowed to physically attend the shows, while the rest had to make do with online broadcasts, which, by the way, didn’t seem to be a big concession.
June 18 – 21, 2020
Rhypark, Basel / Switzerland
www.rhy-art.com

In fact, not everyone demonstrated the full-fledged shows — besides,  there were a great number of teasers or rather brief presentations, but that said, which were worked out creatively. For instance, Imitation of Christ dedicated their video piece ‘to all the people who have lost a loved one this year’ (most notably, it was broadcasted on Saint Valentine’s Day), Private Policy and No Sesso ‘adapted’ their shows to an Instagram video format, putting a smile on the viewers’ faces, while Rodarte just called their friends and colleagues to recall the previous 15 years of fashion for almost 15 minutes. Meanwhile the ‘going digital’ format has recently been tested by many designers (just think of Milan and Mercedes-Benz Russia fashion weeks, which took place in autumn 2020), there were still some significant and rather unusual changes at the recent NYFW.

It goes without saying, the pandemic has hit hard: the non-basic services and goods were directly affected, and the fashion industry was no exception. Most likely for that reason some eminent couturiers were either absent this NYFW season or have transferred their presentations to different locations/rescheduled them. And it showed: on the one hand, we saw many regulars missing like Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, and Calvin Klein; on the other hand, it was offset by the new blood, who weren’t necessarily based in New York or, right, even in America. That was a good excuse to invite some foreign designers to take part in the show, among which were Concept Korea, INF, Asia Fashion Collection (uniting designers from South Korea, Taiwan, and Hong Kong), and Studio 189, the NY-Ghanaian label focusing on promoting African designers.

All those alterations gave birth to the idea of the American Collection’s Calendar, which would embrace schedule of shows by American designers, not only during the week from February 13—18, but also some upcoming ones like those by Christian Siriano and Oscar de la Renta (early March) and Jonathan Cohen (mid April). It’s important to note that US designers showcasing their collections in London, Paris, and other places will as well be included in the Calendar.

On the cover: Backstage shooting on Jason Wu fashion show. Photo: Hunter Abrams

 

Part 1

NYFW: Panoramic view

Singling out trends at fashion weeks has always been a tricky task: every designer has their own vision, thus, perceived similarities in the collections often turn out to vary in style and tone and have rather different meanings. Things are getting even more complicated at the latest New York Fashion Week, where the far-reaching Fall Winter 2021-2022 collections are mixed with more topically relevant Spring-Summer campaigns. A whirlwind combination of light clothing and warm outfits, sensible casual and extravagant glamour can take one aback but won’t leave indifferent, for sure.

This NY season couturiers have paid special attention to the shoulder area, shielding it with the most beautiful shapes of cover, such as puff, leg o’mutton, and Juliet sleeves. As for the body, there is a backward tendency to expose it — disclosed bellies, triangle cutouts and backless dresses couldn’t have remained unnoticed. By golly, the 2021 NYFW season may be described as a battle between chastity and provocation: meanwhile some designers hit sequins and disco shades hard, others opted for turtleneck mid length dresses and elongated basic shirts. No accounting for taste, more so if it’s the couturier’s one, yet here is what we get, trying to summarize the impressions of the season (for those loving to go into detail, some close-ups are coming in the next part).

Bohemian Summer

‘Summertime will be a love-in there’ 

Designers who decided to go for this trend might want to play on our lack of Vitamin D and light-hearted spirit in the end of winter. By the way, that doesn’t necessarily concern themselves. Los Angeles-based brand Maisie Wilen (with Kanye West’s protégé, fashion designer Maisie Schloss standing behind it) seems to be just radiating the Californian sun-kissed, laid-back mood, mixing it up with an ounce of psychedelics. Yes, skintight jumpsuits and leggings are back, so get ready to walk on water, just like the models in the Maisie Wilen latest fashion show did.

Another LA label Stan launched by the artist and surfer Tristan Detwiler suggests wearing hand-tailored jackets, homey cosy and a bit pretentious at once. Rebecca Minkoff opts for matching a face mask to your boho dress, along with multilayer jewelry, fringe, and exquisite sandals. If you come from a relatively cool European climate, where summer season sometimes feels like autumn, better listen to a model Parisian, brand Maison Kitsuné. Their SS 2021 collection demonstrates interseasonal urban items like transparent raincoats, Panama hats tied-up with neckerchiefs, and striped shirts. All in all, boho is primarily about light sweet shades, loose garments, and simple, rhythmical patterns, which the above mentioned couturiers gracefully prove. 

Hardcore Couture

‘Diamonds are a girl’s best friends’ 

While dealing with hard luxury, there is a high risk of overdoing, yet eminent masters of evening looks trust their taste and expertise too much to question that. Can’t get enough of glamour, polish, and languorous shades? Join the club of the privileged. Among the special members are such couturiers as Tadashi Shoji (Japan/LA) and Bibhu Mohapatra (India/NY) whose mindblowing evening gowns one just can’t help staring at. Both designers refer to Baroque in their latest collections, embellishing clothing with rich embroidery and lacework, using silk and satin and, yes, color black, with the difference that, Tadashi Shoji also alludes to Gothic (just look at his long gloves, jackboots, intricate floral elements, and sharp chokers).

Bronx and Banco hits even harder, demonstrating sequins-covered leg warmers, dresses with convertible straps (and all kinds of cutouts, by the way), and splendid flounces. As for their choice of color, probably, it’s the blackest collection presented this season at NYFW. If you aren’t ready for such a blackout slightly squared with shiny rhinestones, take a look at Badgley Mischka Fall 2021 collection. Noble shades of silver, gold, and deep blue, fur coats, and front bow corsets will make you feel a welcome guest at any luxurious event.

For those wanting to play hard, The Blonds have created a very nightlife-inspired line with items glittering like a mirror ball. Conversely, looking for something businesslike yet fancy? Then you might like the magenta power suit by Marcell von Berlin in three possible hues to choose from.

New Age Unisex 

‘If I were a boy, even just for a day’

Fashion for unisex doesn’t sound like hot news anymore: actually, androgynous looks came back in the aughts after the hypersexual decade of the 1990s was over. To dig a little deeper, there were a couple of turning points in history that shaped that phenomenon in vogue, like the first and the second waves of sexual revolution, in the 1920s and 1960s respectively. Feels like one can’t figure out anything fresh in the field, but it’s very viable, some of the NYFW participants claim and prove that in action.

Menswear designer Victor Li sticks with street casual classics like loose coats, denim suits, and bombers, making them sound more authentic. For instance, he bleaches the suit and puts ethic patterns on lapels and cuffs or graces the business jacket with marvelous prints like those depicting a ranch or a fragment of the letter writing. A considerable part of the outfits might be worn both by men and women, Victor Li’s presentation demonstrates.

Italian designer Federico Cina takes an even more radical stance showcasing his collection simultaneously on female and male models (the video screen is split in half). Danish couturier Christian Juul Nielson, who stands behind the brand Aknvas and also known as the Creative Director of Herve Leger couldn’t help to devote his latest Fall Winter 2021 collection to both sexes to show how perfect plaid coats, textured sweaters, and knitted sweatshirts look on any of the genders. Special focus on the color palette: blood red and ice blue are genderless colors, like any others, yet through them one can express their identity and spirit.

So Casual, So Business-like

‘Six inch heels, she walked in the club like nobody’s business’

One’s modus vivendi affects their style of dress, that’s inevitable. We, inhabitants of concrete jungles, less and less keep our working and private lives separate (eating out with colleagues, finishing some urgent work at the home office), ending up mixing casual and business elements in our looks. Well, taking advice from experts will make this task a way easier. New-York based brand Loring suggests wearing shirts over dresses and spicing up the world-old ‘black-n-white’ duo with various configurations of the two colors like those of a chessboard, diagonal stripes, and the color-blocking principle.

The Ukrainian label Theo proves the fashion for mid length women’s dresses of modest shades, which might be wrapped up with a pocketed transforming puffy jacket (who cares that it was designed for men) or a unisex winter coat with lapels and thin straps. The Japanese brand KoH T knows how to make a business suit look a bit more laidback without wasting its solidity. Perhaps all you have to do in this case is not tuck your shirt in so that your snow-white puffs could show through the black sleeves of the suit jacket.

Proenza Schouler shares their version of a perfect business casual look: a neat patch placed where the cutout of the dress/pants is, a bit of the exposed skin (not much, but enough), bat sleeves, fringe, sparse buttons, and, good heavens, sandals made of the monolith, flexible material à la bendy pencils. A string of rather unusual solutions, isn’t it? Still if you feel like you lack avant-garde, Chocheng Fall 2021 collection might be a match for you. Headgears reminding of the Japanese national kasa distinctly allude to respect for traditions and fascination with cultural heritage, while vibrant shades of purple, orange, and red grinning through the basic black gives out a creative type. Among the hooks are jewellery in the form of Chinese paper lanterns, moccasins with ties (it’s possible!) put over the pant legs, and pocket flaps, likely with no pockets inside. 

The Odder, The Better

‘We are all mad here’ 

Today the circus and asylum are not the only places, which might accept eccentricity — we are meant to be different every day, not to say every couple of hours. Meanwhile, a great deal of those socially encouraged roles is often mutually exclusive. A way out? Valiantly trying to meet all expectations or rather creating one’s own universe, expressing oneself through the appearance. A handful of brands participating at the NYFW took the risk of looking ridiculous while presenting their latest collections, yet at stake was the opp to hit the jackpot — stand out of the crowd, outrage and just fascinate!

The aspiring London brand Ka Wa Key makes no secret about their plans to transform the accepted view of masculinity. Stretched out knitted sweatshirts, troubadour trousers, stripes of different widths — never before has menswear looked so poignant and emphatical. Libertine doesn’t lag behind, highlighting such outfits from their FW 2021 collection as jacket suits heavily splashed with patchworks (be it a starry sky, a page of a newspaper or an assemblage by the anonymous author) and every possible model of hats: e.g. like those of a witch, a pirate captain, a Panama hat and sombreros.

Actually, the latest collection by Anna Sui could have been put in the Bohemian Summer category: inarticulate flower and ethnic patterns explicitly reveal the hippie aesthetics. However, that would be too easy: not for nothing, the brand introduces funny cow spots, mysterious stellar shapes, tweed jackets with thick-framed sunglasses and other psychedelic fads. You get it… But if not, look for our recent review of Anna Sui Fall Winter 2021 collection. By the way, one doesn’t have to dress like a freak from head to toe to add a bit of extravagance into the look. A dyed faux fur coat put over the baby-doll dress leads to a similar wah-effect, like in the presentation by Maison Atia.

To be continued very soon… 

On the cover: Backstage shooting on Gabriela Hearst fashion show. Photo: Hunter Abrams