Category

/ART/

Emily Morgan „True Blood“

By /ART/

TRUE BLOOD

Fashion Designer: Lemaine @lemaine__
Photographer: Emily Morgan @emilygrace_morgan
Model: Fay @fay_chelsea

Halter top & Skirt by Lemaine

Halter top & Harnessed Riot Trousers by Lemaine; Flesh Dress by Lemaine

flesh dress by Lemaine; Halter top & Harnessed Riot Trousers by Lemaine

Halter top & Harnessed Riot Trousers by Lemaine; flesh dress by Lemaine

Ekaterina Ponedelkova „Wigwam“

By /ART/

WIGWAM

Set Designer: Dmitriy Dudarev @dima_d.doc
Fashion Designer: Try_me_on.msk @try_me_on.msk
Fashion Designer: Ohhmirrrafashion @ohhmirrrafashion
Stylist: Anna Сhernook @chernookanna
Makeup Artist: Maria Lankina @diesuperkatze
Set Designer: Boris Dudarev @boris.dudarev.585
Model: Yulia Kenarova @yuliaema
Hair Stylist: Ekaterina Pokornaya @hair_by_pokornaya
Model: Liudmila Izotova @liu_igorevna
Fashion Designer: Estooonka @estooonka
Photographer: Ekaterina Ponedelkova @katyponi

Pants: fashion designer
 estooonka Top: no name Shoes: fabio rusconi Accessories: no name

Pants: fashion designer
 estooonka Top: no name Shoes: fabio rusconi Accessories: no name

Dress: fashion designer
 ohhmirrrafashion Shoes: mango Accessories: no name

Dress: fashion designer
 try_me_on.msk Shoes: zara
 Accessories: no name

Dress: fashion designer
 ohhmirrrafashion Shoes: fabio rusconi Accessories: no name

Interview with P.C. NEUMANN

By /ART/, /INTERVIEW

JOHNNY ROSZA Leigh Bowery and Trojan, 1983 – Courtesy Collection PC Neumann Berlin

Text

Iren Russo

Interview with P.C. NEUMANN

P. C. Neumann is a Berlin based cultural entrepreneur and film producer who studied business- and media management.

During his 20-year tenure in the media business, he produced movies, documentaries and entertainment shows, including the first feature film on the subject of AIDS: Via Appia in 1989. Being at the forefront during the rise of the internet, he produced the first web TV project at German television ZDF. Many of his film and TV productions have received the highest awards, including the Grimme-Preis.

P.C. has a special interest in 20th Century Art and Design and is a curator of various exhibitions for art fairs and projects in the private industry.
He will be curating the the PUNK show at the Berlin Photo Week coming up on 26th august – 29th august
We wanted to know more and asked him a few questions!

Your career path started in the media business where you produced films, documentaries, and entertainment shows. What made you turn to curation? 

When I developed the world’s first Internet-based interactive TV format in 2000, this was inevitably already the transition into a new dimension for me: the development of cross-discipline concepts and entry into a digital world that also has to be curated in a special way.

What was the first show under your curation?

My first curatorial activity was an exhibition with the film cameras that my father had collected during many years. However, the visitor could only admire the original boxes that contained the cameras. So, the viewer had to imagine the actual technical device in his imagination, it was not present as a three-dimensional object, I was 16 years old, when I created this provocative exhibition, which met with much incomprehension.

Is there a certain art direction you pursue to represent as curator?

No, art is not definable for me, we are all art objects in our own right.

How do you feel about the many new people entering the Art world? 

Most have no imagination, no clear goals and no stamina – they live in an illusion

Olaf Heine Iggy Pop, Miami, 2001 by Olaf Heine Studio

GENESIS BREYER P-ORRIDGE Topless Poor-trait – Courtesy Collection PC Neumann Berlin

PC Neumann 2020 Foto by Elina Liepina

What do you look for in an artist? 

Positive thinking, authenticity, transgressive action, storytelling skills.

Are you gut-based or academic? Do you look at an artist’s resume? 

I never look at the resume. I always meet the artists in person and talk about dreams and life goals.

Tell us a bit the PUNK project?

The Punk Project exemplifies how differently and yet consistently punk has influenced the visual arts, the gaze of young people, and the ciphers of revolt in various cultural spaces and sociopolitical milieus – since the 1970s and until today. The profound significance and far-reaching aesthetic influence with which the cultural and avant-garde currents of our time react to the epochal revolution brought about by the decade of punk is only slowly crystallizing. Even more than the musical impulse, the attitude, aesthetics, and formal language of those years are carried on through photography, fashion and design as the impulse of a constantly varying development. Punk is not only photography, also videos, textiles, fanzines, and contemporary art show how diverse creative the expressions of punk are.

With all the new technologies where do you see the art world going? Do you see it becoming different?

The art world will change completely, and the boundaries of the analog world have already softened. Digitization is creating new art forms, artists will change originals with digital technologies and also create products that will reach the mass market. This will create new sales channels, which will also force gallery owners to create new exhibition concepts. The world of the white cube is soon coming to an end. The new art world is creating its own influencers, content creators and art blockchain platforms are opening up new opportunities for investors to become active in the art market.

PC Neumann 2020 Foto by Elina Liepina

JOHNNY ROSZA Leigh Bowery and Trojan, 1983 – Courtesy Collection PC Neumann Berlin

What’s next for you?

I’m involved in NFT art projects that tell stories in a completely new way on the one hand, and in preparation for an interactive feature film to be produced later this year on the other.

Instagram P.C. NEUMANN @p.c.neumann

Bakur Tvrineli „Ultra-Marine“

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ULTRA-MARINE

Photography: Bakur Tvrineli @tvrineli
Art direction: Elene Bakhatdze @elenebakhtadze
Make-up artist: Ana Bakhtadze @bakhtadzeana
Models: Shota Natadze @shonat1107 Anton Paresishvili @antonparesishvili Alexander Miqeladze @alexandermiqeladze

qinwei wu „Twilight“

By /ART/

TWILIGHT

Model: Nic @nicnic9292
Photographer: qinwei wu @qinweiwu

Top: GIASTUDIOS @gia_studios Skirt: LNA CLOTHING @lnaclothing Shoes: CHANEL @chanelofficial;

Top: GIASTUDIOS @gia_studios Skirt: LNA CLOTHING @lnaclothing Shoes: CHANEL @chanelofficial;

Top: GIASTUDIOS @gia_studios Skirt: LNA CLOTHING @lnaclothing Shoes: CHANEL @chanelofficial;

Top: GIASTUDIOS @gia_studios Skirt: LNA CLOTHING @lnaclothing Shoes: CHANEL @chanelofficial Coat: OAK+FORT @oakankfort

Top: GIASTUDIOS @gia_studios Skirt: LNA CLOTHING @lnaclothing Shoes: CHANEL @chanelofficial;

Top: GIASTUDIOS @gia_studios Skirt: LNA CLOTHING @lnaclothing Shoes: CHANEL @chanelofficial;

BOYAN LI „The last Mercenaries“

By /ART/

THE LAST MERCENARIES

Photographer: BOYAN LI @simonliboyan
Artistic direction: BAÏA ALI @baia_ali
Style: LOUIS GUIMARD @lgmdr BAÏA ALI @baia_ali
Makeup: ELOISE BOURGE @eloisebourges
Hair: YOLETTE BOUCHAR @yolettebouchar
Models: JULES PENCREACH @iamsaintjulio YOLETTE BOUCHAR @yolettebouchar

Earrings: Begum Khan Skirt & Body : Lucas Lefilleul Trench: Giorgiela Studio

Earring : Begum Khan Dress : Leftig Body : Sadels; Earring : Begum Khan Dress : Leftig Body & Pants : Sadels Shoes: Vintage

Earring : Begum Khan; Rings: Loëy Dress & Glow: Georgiela Studio Boots: Demonia

Earrings: Loëy Dress & Glow: Georgiela Studio lace Body : handmade styliste; Earring : Begum Khan Dress : Leftig

Earring : Begum Khan Trench: Giorgiela Studio; KIMONO : YOSHIKI

Art Digest: March 15—20

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: March 15—20

To breathe a bit of freshness into the column, I would love to introduce you to the Asian scene of visual arts today. Just as exciting as the European and the American counterparts, the art and fashion world of Japan and Korea have a lot to impress the Western minds. Not without reason Berlin gallerist Johann König has set his sight on the Seoul art market, while Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo justly belongs to the Top 5 global fashion weeks. Yōkoso, AD: March 15—20! 

*yōkoso [ようこそ] — Japanese for ‘welcome’

C O N T E M P O R A R Y   A R T 

Yayoi Kusama’s early works never exhibited before are expected to raise a fortune at auction 

Even for those who believe themselves Yayoi Kusama’s art connoisseurs, that might come as a surprise. Bonhams auctions off the three early paintings and eight works on paper by the world’s famous Japanese artist, which she gifted to her doctor Teruo Hirose. The pieces originate from the private collection of the late Teruo Hirose (the doctor passed away in 2019 at the age of 93) and taken together, are estimated to fetch between $8.8 million and $14 million during the sales at Bonhams New York, which take place from April 30 till May 12, 2021.

Hirose, Kusama’s countryman, met the artist in New York in the late 1950s agreeing to provide some pro bono medical services for her. Yayoi Kusama gave the savior a couple of her artworks in gratitude, including ‘Mississippi River’ and ‘Hudson River’ (1960). Bonhams post-war and contemporary global head Ralph Taylor claims the works are rare not only because of their incredible provenance but also due to the exceptional character of Kusama’s early oeuvre with some features and themes emerging to be developed throughout her further career. The ‘River’ paintings have never been exhibited in public before.

Not just a poodle: Masayoshi Matsumoto amazes with his balloon animal sculptures 

Today the artists are so free to choose the materials to work with that one will hardly be surprised seeing artworks made of, let’s say air or human tears. Yet excellence and vivid imagination of some artists never ceases to amaze. That’s the story of the Yokohama-based artist Masayoshi Matsumoto, who uses nothing but balloons while creating his incredible animal sculptures. The artist aims at recreating the physical form of the subject, thus, he puts effort into selecting the right kind of texture, color, and twists the material until it takes shape. 

‘When they hear the term ‘balloon art’, many people imagine a poodle or such, but I would like people to realize that there is an area of this art form that takes time to create complex works too.’ (Masayoshi Matsumoto) 

Indeed, Matsumoto replicates any living creatures, including not the most obvious ones when it comes to balloon art, such as oxen, lemurs, butterflies, koala bears, peacocks etc. And the most surprising thing is, he avoids using glue or other adhesive materials in work, neither he resorts to decoration. The artist’s balloon animals delight with the veracity of color and form, each of them having a unique character and even a particular eye expression, which is more than enough. Feel like following Masayoshi Matsumoto’s lead? Good news, the artist shares his skills in YouTube tutorials. Or you can just enjoy Matsumoto’s new works on his Instagram, which is pretty popular, by the way, for not a society man.

F A S H I O N 

A few words about Tokyo Rakuten Fashion Week 

The show must go on, and it goes (I am talking of vogue now). Tokyo’s Rakuten Fashion Week, which enters the Fab Five of the world’s fashion weeks, has just finished. Taking place twice a year, in autumn and spring, Rakuten represents Japanese couturiers, both world-renowned and emerging ones. This time, Tokyo Fashion Week took place from March 15—20, featuring around 35 brands/51 designers, one third of which, in their turn, provided physical presentations of their Fall/Winter 2021 collections. As would be expected, the latest Rakuten season both consisted of online shows and in-person events with a minimal number of viewers allowed, balancing between the fashionable celebration of life and the national state of emergency due to the pandemic. 

Glancing at TFW schedule, one would love seeing a few well-known names from the world of fashion, including Tae Ashida and Hiroko Koshino, while also discovering some cheerful up-and-comers, such as the Men’s RTW brand De_caffeine homme (est. 2018) and the Women’s label Adelly (f. 2014). Don’t be surprised encountering a couple of old mates: Ka Wa Kai and KoH T landed at Rakuten, right after showcasing their collections at the February New York Fashion Week, here how it was. It’s also striking that the TFW curators diversified the program by adding some cultural activities into it, such as the series of events linked to the Fashion in Japan 1945-2020 exhibition, which runs at the National Art Center Tokyo until June 09. Vogue columnist Kira had the pleasure of seeing Rakuten Fashion Week shows firsthand and provided a detailed coverage for all those who wished they had been also present. 

A R T   M A R K E T 

Berlin gallerist Johann König targets at Korean art market 

Berlin art dealer, author of the acclaimed memoir ‘Blinder Galerist’ (Blind Gallerist) Johann König has announced the opening of a new art space in Seoul. König Seoul, that’s what the place is called, occupies the fifth floor of the MCM Haus, a luxury clothing brand based in the posh district of Gangnam. ‘Korea has a strong position in the art market, so we are excited to be presenting our program to the Korean audience,’ König says in the statement, explaining his decision to collaborate with MCM.

König Seoul, which opens on April 03, represents such established artists who Johann König has already worked with back home, such as Erwin Wurm, Jeppe Hein, Katharina Grosse, and Alicja Kwade. There are already some less well-known names including Trey Abdella and Conny Maier, who, with the help of the talented gallerist stand a good chance to become famous. The Gangnam-based gallery will be the third art venue established by Johann König, following his flagship König Galerie in Berlin, which emerged at the place of a Brutalist church, and its London branch. König institutions regularly issue an eponymous thematic magazine, while the gallerist himself records an interesting podcast Was Mit Kunst, where he discusses the most vital issue of arts with his colleagues from the field, i.e. artists, curators, art publishers etc.

On the cover: Tokyo Fashion Week Rakuten Fall 2021. Photo: Kira / Tokyofashion.com

Art Digest: March 08—14

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: March 08—14

It’s so gratifying that good things never come alone. Slowly but surely, spring is taking possession, and now we choose even lighter materials to put on, while the soul is singing together with the birds, which have come back from the south. The haute couture season is also in full swing. A few days ago the Paris Fashion Week FW 2021—2022 was finalized, and it was quite a spectacle. Counter-intuitively, however, we are not going to cover the vogue event now, stepping aside a bit in favor of art installations, skillfully illustrated books, and exclusive photographs. 

As usually, the creative fields are not clearly distinguished, but rather channelled here. One of the world’s most famous artists denudes his past as a fashion illustrator (find material evidence is attached); a talented designer gets back to his photographic background, while another couturier has never deviated from his enthusiasm for arts and successfully integrated it into his work. Enough with the puzzles, let’s take off with the Art Digest of the week! 

A R T 

A rare cookbook illustrated by Andy Warhol auctions off 

No doubt it’s the Campbell’s soup tins canvases that made Andy Warhol’s name recognizable in the art world. Today almost everyone has heard of or seen reproductions of Marilyn Monroe Diptych, Eight Elvises, and Green Coca Cola Bottles by the Pop Art King. However, not that many people know that young Andy started off as a commercial illustrator primarily sketching for fashion magazines. For that reason, the news of Warhol’s self-published book full of playful recipes going to auction might surprise most of his fans. Bonhams auction house bids the artist’s rare 1959 cookbook created together with the interior decorator Suzie Frankfurt. The book’s sound title Wild Raspberries is an allusion to Wild Strawberries, the quintessential Ingmar Bergman’s film (1957). 

‘The books perfectly capture the puckish nature of much of Warhol’s work’ 
(Book and Manuscript specialist at Bonhams New York, Darren Sutherland)

Jokingly following the lavish cookbooks fad of the 50s or rather parodying it, Warhol together with Frankfurt published 34 copies of the recipe book, having managed to sell around 20 of them (despite the original ambitions of the artist to make a million on the edition). 

Andy Warhol got to know Frankfurt in his beloved Serendipity ice cream shop, which at night would turn into an art gallery with some of Andy’s drawings on show. The co-authors make fun of the high cuisine of the time in the book, with seeming excitement, discussing such recipes as ‘Omlet Greta Garbo’ (‘always to be eaten alone in a candlelit room’), ‘Gefilte of Fighting Fish’ (‘immerse them in sea water and allow them to do battle until they completely bone each other’), and ‘Seared Roebuck’ (‘ <…> roebuck shot in ambush is infinitely better than roebuck killed after a chase’). Interesting enough, Andy’s mother, Julia Warhol also took part in the process doing the calligraphy. Wild Raspberries is auctioning off at Bonhams NY in March 2021 for an estimated $30,000-$50,000.

Bed of salt cherry petals in the installation by Motoi Yamamoto 

Just imagine: a huge field of white cherry petals in front of an exhibition hall. A well-prepared love confession or, maybe, a grief for the one who left? It turns out to be both. Japanese artist Motoi Yamamoto, who has been using salt in his works since he mourned the death of his beloved sister has created a large-scale installation called Sakura Shibefuru (falling cherry petals) for the Setouchi City Art Museum. The installation features about 100,000 cherry blossom salt petals, which the artist developed one by one, during the nine days of careful work. 

Cherry blossoms here don’t only stand for the beauty of the flower, but also touch upon such eternal topics as the continuous circle of life and death. Sakura Shibefuru is the second Yamamoto’s exhibition hosted by the Setouchi City Art Museum. The artist’s debut took place in 2013, when his Floating Garden (an extended 100m2 structure featuring interconnected white lines and a deep blue ground) was put on display. As for the current exhibition, it also includes two-dimensional works created by Motoi Yamamoto in 1995 in the very beginning of his salt-concept series. You still have time until May 05 to see Yamamoto’s solo show.

P H O T O G R A P H Y 

Solo exhibition by Hedi Slimane opens its doors in Shanghai 

If you watched Celine Homme Winter 2021 show, you might have spotted Hedi Slimane’s love for minimalist aesthetics. The creative director of Maison Celine, Slimane successfully combines his interest in photography and fashion. Having graduated from the École du Louvre in Paris with a degree in Art History, Hedi Slimane began his career in vogue as an assistant to fashion consultant Jean-Jacques Picart, but he wouldn’t give up photography, which, indeed, wasn’t for nothing. 

The fruits of Slimane’s steady work as well as his distinctive concise manner of shooting will be presented at his solo exhibition to open this month in Shanghai at the place called Almine Rech Gallery. Titled Sun of Sound, the exhibit will mark Slimane’s debut in China and become his first solo show over the past 7 years. The Sun of Sound exhibition comes as a homage to the music scene and all its stakeholders, carefully assembled by Slimane during his years of work in the field. In focus are such music stars as Amy Winehouse, Lou Reed, Keith Richards, Brian Wilson, and even Pete Doherty, an emerging British punk rock musician at the time. Besides, get ready to see an immersive sound installation, which introduces the viewer into Slimane’s process of exploration of music.

F A S H I O N 

Issey Miyake introduces a new menswear line 

Wizard of Japanese fashion and founder of the world-known brand, the 82-year-old Issey Miyake is the type of person one can write a book about. Having studied graphic design in his home Tokyo, Miyake went to Paris to be enrolled in the eminent Chambre syndicale de la couture, where, by the way, he made friends with Kenzo Takada (more on the heritage of the late couturier here). Before moving to free floating, Issey Miyake managed to work for such maitres as Guy Laroche, Hubert de Givenchy, and Geoffrey Beene. The designer’s passion for art (Miyake drew inspiration from Isamu Noguchi’s works and appreciated his contact with artists like Christo and Robert Rauschenberg) just boosted his career in fashion. Issey Miyake collections as well as his perfume limes encompass the structuredness of good architecture and the free-thinking abstract vision, which, eventually, have won him international renown and success. 

Issey Miyake Inc. is famous for the few lines hosted by the company, specializing on bags, fragrances, watches, and, surely, different lines of wear both for men and women. In summer 2020 the founder of the brand announced the closing of the Issey Miyake Men. However, it merely meant the concept was to be continued. The new line IM MEN by the Issey Miyake Design Studio has been created to suggest unconventional menswear options — functional, minimalist, nothing extra, just the way Mr. Miyake prefers it. Perfectly cut jackets and pants of some bright yet natural hues, comfortable trench coats, shirts, and shoes all are made of eco-friendly, recycled materials such as plant-based polyester. Over the weekend the line was presented in Issey Miyake’s Aoyama flagship in Tokyo. Looking forward to seeing IM MEN collections in international distribution.

On the cover: Young Andy Warhol and Suzie Frankfurt over a bite. Photo: Michael Ochs Archives / Getty Images