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/FASHION/

Dan Chen „dune of silence“

By /FASHION/

DUNE OF SILENCE

Model: SAMAYAH JARAMILLO @samayahjaramillo  @newiconny
Fashion Designer: Vira Lilium @vira_lilium_nyc
Makeup Artist: Anna Posokhina @anna.makeup.nyc
Photographer: Dan Chen @unco_dan
Wardrobe Stylist: Antonio Consuegra @theglambearstylist
Fashion Designer: Zun Phyu @zunphyu_studio

Dress + Sleeves: Vira Lilium

Dress + Top Coat: Zun Phyu

Dress + Top Coat: Zun Phyu

Dress + Top Coat: Zun Phyu; Dress + Sleeves: Vira Lilium

Dress + Sleeves: Vira Lilium

Dress + Sleeves: Vira Lilium

Izzy Schreiber „i am still waiting for you“

By /FASHION/

I AM STILL WAITING FOR YOU

Model: Nadia Boiko @wild.management  @nadeboiko
Wardrobe Stylist: Karolina Dorau @karolinadorau
Hair Stylist: Grace Tame @tamehair123
Photographer: Izzy Schreiber @izzy_schreiber
Makeup Artist: Simona Švantnerová @simonasvantnerova_

Special thanks to The Unstated @the.unstated

Blazer – Ingorokva @_ingorokva_  Dress – Bessarion @bessarion_shop
Coat – Eloshi @eloshi_official  Tights – Wolford @wolford Dress – Aje @_aje_ Shoes – & Other Stories @andotherstories
Top – Les Heroines by Vanessa Cocchiaro @vanessacocchiaroparis Trousers – Pritch London @pritchlondon Shoes – stylist’s own Hat – Ruslan Baginskiy @ruslanbaginskiy_hats Shirt and trousers – Litkovskaya @litkovskaya_official
Hat – Ruslan Baginskiy @ruslanbaginskiy_hats Shirt and trousers – Litkovskaya @litkovskaya_official Shoes – Bottegs Veneta @bottegaveneta Dress – Staud @staud.clothing Bracelet – Thomas Sabo @thomassabo Shoes – Steve Madden @stevemadden
Coat – Eloshi @eloshi_official Tights – Wolford @wolford Shoes – Jimmy Choo @jimmychoo Dress – Aje @_aje_

Christmas & New Year Edition. Part 2

By /BLOG/, /FASHION/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Christmas & New Year Edition. Part 2

I N N O C E N T 

Chocolate is the answer. Doesn’t matter what the question is 
Life orientation: Life is beautiful 

Description: Just like kids. That would be enough to describe the essence of Innocent archetype. Simple-minded, friendly, amazingly open, they believe in global justice or, at least, desperately try to. Where Innocent is, it’s always sunny, cosy, and joyful, as if you have returned to your childhood. At the same time Innocents can act moody, if they don’t get what they think they deserve. It’s also easy to hurt Innocent’s feelings, by chance or on purpose, while these folks are rather touchy in interpersonal and self-esteem matters. Youth is the most common period for prevalence of the archetype in one’s character, yet mature Innocents are frequent as well.

Fashion life hacks: Simple cuts, natural shades, romanticism. Innocents benefit from looking young and playful. If this archetype finds a response in your heart, make sure you don’t try ‘growing up’ through your outfit. Pastel colors, ruching, flounces, lace, rococo ornaments will certainly give the desired effect of ‘innocence’. More than that, mini is your ideal length, while the entire silhouette should be compact and recognizable. For those types of Innocents who are not as easy as they seem, it’s worth experimenting with multiple layers, small details, and a delightful patchwork

Brands you may prefer: Giambattista Valli, Alena Akhmadullina, Valentino 

Valentino Spring 2021 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Alessandro Lucioni _ Gorunway

Giambattista Valli Spring 2021 Collection. Courtesy of Giambattista Valli

Alena Akhmadullina Spring 2019 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Courtesy of Alena Akhmadullina

E X P L O R E R 

Adventure is worthwhile 
Life orientation: Life is a journey 

Description: Every Explorer will convince you that it’s all about the process, not destination. However, that doesn’t mean, this archetype lacks ambitions or persistence. Just the opposite, Explorers are driven by the desire to discover the world, research interesting phenomena, and meet new people. Really easy-going and open-minded, Explorers are far from prejudice, thanks to their rich life experience. Yet they get annoyed quickly, facing restrictions or other frustrating factors. Measuring twice? No, Explorer is far better in cutting, which (s)he constantly demonstrates. 

Fashion life hacks: It’s the freedom of movement, literally and figurally, that Explorer values most. Thus, while choosing an outfit, it makes sense to look for loose, multilayered garments, asymmetrical cuts, and natural prints. By the way, sharing Explorer’s aspiration to be close to nature, you can experience choosing animal prints like those of a cheetah or a zebra, but please be careful not to turn your look into Jester’s masquerade. Forget about artificial colors, organic hues only, as if you were in a forest or on the river and wanted to merge with the surrounding. Hoodies, scarfs, and travel bags with big pockets will just add authenticity to your look. 

Brands you may prefer: Kenzo, Salvatore Ferragamo, Fendi 

Fendi Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Alessandro Lucioni _ Gorunway

Salvatore Ferragamo Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Filippo Fior _ Gorunway

Kenzo Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Isidore Montag _ Gorunway

R U L E R 

Divide and conquer 
Life orientation: Life is a quest for power 

Description: It’s power, prestige, and wealth that Ruler primarily seeks in life. Obviously, such an approach comes with a pile of responsibilities, but this archetype doesn’t mind that at all. Just the opposite, Rulers enjoy being in the spotlight, having complete control over the situation. Barely suffering from low self-esteem, they perfectly evaluate their own strengths and weaknesses. Rulers usually act effectively and are confident of success, if not, they will hardly promise you anything. It’s important to mention that stability and hierarchical nature of the world are crucial for the quiet confidence of Rulers, thus, they work hard to structure things around them. 

Fashion life hacks: Sounds familiar? Then try considering what kind of Ruler you are. If you are inclined to self-expression and artistry, you might be more of a dramatic type. ‘Drama queens’ enjoy emphasizing their elitism, so they don’t shy away from furs, jewels, brand logos, gracefully integrating all these into a royal look. Classic Rulers rather prefer complete, form-fitting garments with straight lines and clear symmetry. In outfits, just like in life the classic type favours statics and specificity. So, your Majesty, Ruler, while dressing up, please don’t forget to choose noble colors only, such as emerald green and space blue, and be careful selecting accessories. Lavish or moderate, they should be refined, anyway. 

Brands you may prefer: Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli, Louis Vuitton

Dolce _ Gabbana Spring 2021 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Alessandro Lucioni _ Gorunway

Roberto Cavalli Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli

Louis Vuitton Spring 2021 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Filippo Fior _ Gorunway

C R E A T O R 

Realm of dream is eternal 
Life orientation: Life is a miracle

Description: Good news, Creators live within each of us (actually, like any other archetype). Remember the moments of boundless inspiration that would suddenly take over you or, perhaps, minutes of long-awaited solitude, when you felt close to God and just the whole universe. Yes, it was the Creator speaking inside you. However, those especially gifted like painters, singers, writers or other artists just can’t help following the voice of this archetype in their day-to-day practice. Trusting their intuition and inner impulses, Creators balance between the subjective and objective reality, drawing resources from the former and improving the latter. The way Creators do that is art. Coming up with aesthetically pleasing yet practical things, Creators live their dreams (in the best sense of the word). 

Fashion life hacks: Creator is the type who can and should mix styles in his/her look. Blessed with a great sense of beauty, they will easily cope with the task. More extraordinary colour combinations, bizarre textures, and intricate patterns, since it’s the easiest way to tell people who you are without saying a word. The secret of Creator’s charm would be their talent to combine incongruous elements (lace with hard skin, sneakers with tutu, high heels with jog pants among the simplest examples), but to do that in a highly subtle manner. What’s more, Creators navigate skillfully between the street-style culture and their sublime glimpse of existence. The only risk of dressing that way is to slip into a show, which will make people laugh. That’s Jester’s prerogative, so better don’t turn off your path. 

Brands you may prefer: Erdem, Emilio Pucci, Marni 

Emilio Pucci Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Filippo Fior _ Gorunway

Erdem Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Salvatore Dragone _ Gorunway

Marni Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Alessandro Lucioni _ Gorunway

M A G I C I A N 

The world is interconnected 
Life orientation: Life is a mystery 

Description: You can tell just by his/her eyes, that is Magician standing in front of you. Creator’s elder brother, this archetype craves to cognize the world and its processes, but in contrast to Sage, rather viscerally. Mysticism is not an empty word for Magicians, they can perfectly see it, feel it, perhaps even create it themselves. Having such a great gut, they are rarely mistaken about people. The archetype immediately finds out one’s weak points and won’t refuse to adopt this knowledge, if needed. Not that Magicians strive to run the world, it’s just their superpower, which is hard not to take advantage of. 

Fashion life hacks: Dressing like a genuine Magician is a challenging mission. In a perfect world, you, a hereditary wizard, shouldn’t look casual even when you go buy bread. So try to look for complex details, difficult materials of deep, preferably, zero-contrast, dark shades. Actually, if you consider yourself more of a white Magician, light hues will also do, but please don’t forget about the general entanglement of the look. Long sleeves and maxi dresses are clearly at the top, the same can be said of some enigmatic accessories like those with alchemical or outer space elements. Keeping in mind that the devil is in the detail, pay close attention to your purse: it shouldn’t be simple either, a barrel bag or a minaudière is the way to go. 

Brands you may prefer: Rochas, Givenchy, Aganovich 

Aganovich Spring 2016 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Kim Weston Arnold _Indigitalimages

Rochas Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Alessandro Lucioni _ Gorunway

Givenchy Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Alessandro Lucioni _ Gorunway

O U T L A W 

Rules are meant to be broken 
Life orientation: Life is a dissenters’ march 

Description: Guess what Innocent and Outlaw have in common. Though looking like antipodes, the both archetypes, actually, have got stuck in youth. In Outlaw’s case, it’s the desire to go against the view of the majority and always be right. Rebellious and judgemental, Outlaws willingly express their reaction (negative, of course) and stand out of the crowd. Asking an awkward question or protesting against the corporate formalities, this archetype wants people to think of them as nonconformists and individuals with their own position. Those criticizing the ideas of Outlaws take a big gamble and risk facing resentment and strong opposition

Fashion life hacks: Try thinking what Outlaws might look like. (S)he is likely to dress in a provocative, sometimes even aggressive manner to demonstrate others their exceptionalism and belligerent spirit. The garments can be fitting (leather jackets, tights, mini-skirts) as well as loose (bombers, training pants, boyfriend tees). The main thing is that they should be assembled, giving a sense of integrity. Dirty hues and massive accessories are inherent to the character of the archetype, let alone unisex outfits. Some bright accents like acid yellow sunglasses or a maroon scarf will just add vibrancy to the Outlaw’s look. 

Brands you may prefer: Vivienne Westwood, Dsquared2, Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen 2021 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Courtesy of Alexander McQueen

Vivienne Westwood Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Courtesy of Vivienne Westwood

Dsquared2 Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Lucioni – Oberrauch _ Gorunway

C A R E G I V E R 

You become responsible, forever, for what you have tamed
Life orientation: Life is caring about people 

Description: A teacher, a tutor, a nurse, that’s what Caregivers most frequently want to become. The life mission of this archetype is to take care of others, giving them attention and kindness. Caregivers are driven by highly altruistic values and find joy in serving people. Cautious, good-hearted, and thoughtful, the archetype knows how to please others, making them feel valuable. Honest and empathetic, they are so preoccupied with humanity issues that usually lose sight of some strategic questions like balance of power. For that reason, Caregiver is often the wingman, not the initiator, preserving energy for the right thing like charity

Fashion life hacks: Looking tidy and neat is of primary importance for Caregivers. They rather choose conventional design, which meets the definition of timeless classic. However, contrary to Rulers, they don’t seek to prove themselves through outfits. Dressing powerfully is not their path, it’s more about generosity and quiet confidence. You’re a Caregiver? Take a look at tweed garments, non-contrast patterns, and a warm muted palette. Mustard, walnut, mocha, milk chocolate are the hues right for you. It’s the tiny jewelry and retro elements that will make Caregiver’s look shine. 

Brands you may prefer: Chanel, Pringle of Scotland, Cacharel 

Pringle of Scotland Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Courtesy of Pringle of Scotland

Cacharel Fall 2017 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Courtesy of Cacharel

Chanel Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Alessandro Lucioni _ Gorunway

On the cover: Dior Secret Garden 2 —Versailles ad campaign, shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. Courtesy of Inez & Vinoodh and the brand

Christmas & New Year Edition

By /BLOG/, /FASHION/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Christmas & New Year Edition

Style Archetypes: What Your Outfit Says About You

Now that very few time has been left before the New Year, many of us would start reminiscing. About the things that have or haven’t happened over the past few months, the strangest ever. In the moments like these it’s all about going in search of some new ways of self-expression. Might as well be fashion? Some of us dress to impress, others prefer comfortable outfits or don’t care about clothing at all. Yet creating a look that will encompass one’s vision, inclinations, and principles is a far more complex task.

To harmonize our sense of self through other people’s prisms, we need to communicate it right. An insight into our psyche can be of use along the way, so let’s get into psychology.

Carl Jung believed the collective subconscious (a term of his invention) to be a reservoir for archetypes, which are archaic images ingrained in human nature. Those archetypes are usually embodied in the most common symbols of culture, such as pictures of the Sun, mother, father, anti-hero etc. Since Jung’s preliminary archetypal images look too abstract to be engaged in one’s look, let’s turn to the ideas of his followers, who despite not being psychiatrists, managed to point out exciting dynamics in people’s behavior and self-presentation strategies.

‘A Queen Within_ Adorned Archetypes’ at New Orleans Museum of Art. Photo by Seth Boonchai

In the award-winning book ‘The Hero and the Outlaw: Building Extraordinary Brands Through the Power of Archetypes’ American author Carol Pearson together with her colleague, branding guru Margaret Mark describe 12 archeTYPEs that people tend to identify with. Sage, Innocent, Explorer, Ruler, Creator, Caregiver, Magician, Hero, Outlaw, Lover, Jester, and Regular Guy/Gal — each of them based on core human motivations such as desire for safety, domination, aggression or research interest. Each archetype has its own merits and demerits (to put in Jungian terms, persona and shadow aspect) and, ideally, seeks to build a life according to one’s attitudes. 

Knowing your motives and inclinations helps to release your inner potential and plan an effective life strategy. Here is to learn more about the typology, meanwhile we’re trying to select a perfect look for each archetype. Once you figure out your own one, join us on the journey!

‘A Queen Within_ Adorned Archetypes’ at New Orleans Museum of Art. Photo by Roman Alokhin

H E R O 

Fortune favors the bold 
Life orientation: Life is a struggle 

Description: Heroes are motivated to move forward no matter how hopeless the situation seems (for the assertive and energetic representatives of the archetype despair is never the case). Highly reluctant to any sort of emotional roller coasters or daydreaming, Heroes objectively access reality and, as a result, easily meet their goals. Within Hero rationale and logical approach amazingly combine with responsiveness and desire to help the weak. However, one doesn’t necessarily see their benevolence from the outside, so Heroes should try loosening their grip a bit to win over people, which they always strive to.

Fashion life hacks: Minimalist forms, straight lines, clear color palette (either dark or bright bold shades) will perfectly highlight the invincible nature of Hero. Focus on shoulders and waist plus minimum accessories are very much desired in the look. To enhance the effect try choosing regular (not worn) leather or other hard fabrics and pay attention to belligerent elements: e.g. metal buttons, buckles, weave, capes

Brands you may prefer: Balmain, Jean Paul Gaultier, Versace 

Balmain Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear. Photo_ Filippo Fior _ Gorunway.com

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2020 Couture. Photo_ Alessandro Lucioni _ Gorunway.com

Versace Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear. Photo_ Alessandro Lucioni _ Gorunway.com

S A G E 

I know that I know nothing 
Life orientation: Life is a path to knowledge 

Description: Probably the wisest of the archetypes, Sages enjoy great cognitive abilities and big creative potential. However, they would unlikely boast of their giftedness: a bit shy and reserved, they don’t seek to take center stage, rather observing the vanity of this world from the outside. Intuition, judgement, and intelligence are definitely the strong points of Sage, which can’t be said about leadership and interpersonal skills. The best compliment for Sage will be acceptance of his/her competence in a field. Well, they are perfectly aware of their own talent, even if they try to deny it. 

Fashion life hacks: Sages are indifferent to any kind of decoration. Turbulent emotions are not their thing, so they do not seek to express any sensations through their outfits. If you are a Sage, take a closer look at simple garments in muted tones like those of sea, sand, stone, and black, of course. Minimum ornaments, accessories, and other details are required. Neither do you need any strong makeup or big hair. It’s the ‘the less is more’ principle that your daily fashion routine might be guided by. However, if you don’t enjoy dressing up that ascetic, feel free to make your look a bit more complicated by choosing intricate cuts and adding careful prints.  

Brands you may prefer: Yohji Yamamoto, Maison Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Photo_ Filippo Fior _ Gorunway

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2021 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Alessandro Lucioni _ Gorunway.com

Maison Margiela Fall 2019 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Alessandro Lucioni _ Gorunway

R E G U L A R   G U Y / G A L

We’re better together 
Life orientation: Life is socializing  

Description: Regular Guy/Gal is type of a person who will find someone to chat with in the middle of a desert. Yet it might be hard for Regular to survive in a tacit community. This archetype finds social links, involvement, and team activities most crucial in life, thus, (s)he is ready to pay a high price for the sense of belonging. The flip side of the coin is Regular’s predisposition to conformism. Why raise a question if everyone is ok with the way things are going? Having dozens of friends and the entire world among his acquaintances, Regular Guy/Gal spends his/her life in the search for harmony and social equity and doesn’t forget to enjoy every single day of it. 

Fashion life hacks: Feeling comfortable, that’s what Regular seeks through life, in communication as well as in clothes. The ideal outfit for the archetype is simple but no way ascetic. On the contrary, Regular wants to look like one of the guys, which unlikely matches a total black costume or a buttoned-up jacket. Denim garments, sneakers, sportswear, anoraks, polo, and a total must have, plaid shirts should always be there in the Regular’s closet. As for the colour palette, it shouldn’t be too monochrome, dark or bright, but rather natural. Nice, elegant accessories like watches, bracelets, necklaces will focus the joie de vivre of the archetype. 

Brands you may prefer: Lacoste, Burberry, Paul & Joe 

Burberry Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Alessandro Lucioni _ Gorunway.com

Lacoste Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Filippo Fior _ Gorunway.com

Paul _ Joe Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Courtesy of Paul _ Joe

J E S T E R 

If I can’t dance, I don’t want to be part of your revolution
Life orientation: Life is nothing without a good joke 

Description: Someone called Jester the Sage’s brother, and that’s not far from the truth. Perceptive and smart, Jesters know how to turn the most awkward aspects of reality into a joke. Most likely deep down, they don’t find the world that amusing and cheerful, but just like Hero this archetype won’t give up easily succumbing to despair. Jester’s weapon is humor that usually borders on satire. His/her jokes always hit the point, though Jester’s careless approach never seems to promise that. 100 % extroverts, Jesters enjoy meeting new people and discovering the unknown. Surely, they know the influence they have on their circle and explicitly savor it. 

Fashion life hacks: Recognized yourself in the archetype? Then stick to the golden rule: never get dressed too seriously. Let your look communicate your witty approach and give people vigor and positivity. In fact, it can be any unconventional pattern, irregular cuts, and funny accessories. Rich colors are most welcome. Please be careful with brands logos, so that they don’t overshadow your bright personality. Actually, if it’s a joke, why not… 

Brands you may prefer: Moschino, Viktor & Rolf, Comme des Garçons 

Comme des Garçons Fall 2016 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Yannis Vlamos _ Indigital

Viktor _ Rolf Spring 2019 Couture. Photo_ Alessandro Viero _ Gorunway.com

MOSCHINO Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Alessandro Lucioni _ Gorunway.com

L O V E R 

Beauty will save the world 
Life orientation: Life is about falling in love 

Description: Feeling and seeing beauty, that’s what Lover is virtuoso in. Another name for the archetype is Aesthete, and that’s absolutely justified. Living one’s emotions and sensations, Lover has a flair for color, sound, smell, and grace. Lovers admire art and might be artistic themselves, which leaves no one cold. Exuding endless charm, this archetype seeks falling in love again and again, primarily, with life itself. Sociable and open-hearted, Lovers seem to know best what harmony is. 

Fashion life hacks: To express the tender and sensible character of Lover, it’s better to avoid rigid forms, rather choosing curve-hugging, flowing garments. Thin belts, V-necks, and exquisite ornaments will emphasize the ethereal and seductive nature of the archetype. As for the fabrics, take special note of silk, lace, translucent pliable materials. The colour palette can be different, however, bear in mind that intense shades detract from details. So, if you feel like making people admire your floral pattern or careful embroidery, opt for softer hues like rose, caramel, light blue, or lavender

Brands you may prefer: Lanvin, Blumarine, Elisabetta Franchi 

Blumarine Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Salvatore Dragone _ Gorunway.com

Elisabetta Franchi Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Salvatore Dragone _ Courtesy of Elisabetta Franchi

Lanvin Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Photo_ Filippo Fior _ Gorunway.com

Cover photo: Christian Dior, by Raf Simons, Summer 2013 Couture, Paris. Photo: Chris Moore / Karl Prouse

Felicia Sergienko „new year party“

By /FASHION/

NEW YEAR PARTY

Hair Stylist: Ulyana Chernova @nepokazivaimame
Model: Nikita Efimiev @marsvovne
Makeup Artist: Anastasia Ionova @holredmakeup
Stylist: Alina Aznagulova @alinavpoiskahstilya
Model: Eva Novitskaya @thereallifeofeva
Model: Diana Gilizeeva @di_jr
Photographer: Felicia Sergienko @felicia_sergienko

Pants – ragged priest  @theraggedpriest

Hoodie – K TITOVA  @k.titova__

Dress – @try_me_on.msk

Suit – K TITOVA     @k.titova__ Body – Alina Aznagulova

Pants – ragged priest  @theraggedpriest  Hoodie – K TITOVA @k.titova__

Virginia Kluiters „new nostalgia“

By /FASHION/

NEW NOSTALGIA

Photographer: Virginia Kluiters @vkluitersphoto
Model: Tian Chang @tianyinyc from EMG Models @emg_models
Makeup artist: Lindsay Kastuk @lindsaykastuk
Hair stylist: Bryan P. Cristo @cristo_styles
Wardrobe stylist: Ariella Tautua @ariellafaith
Photo Assistant: Scott Fetterman @scottfetterman
Top Hila NYC (@hilanyc, hilanyc.com), jumpsuit RORA (@roraclothing, roraclothing.com), shoes Jessica Simpson (@jessicasimpsonstyle, jessicasimpson.com), ring Lada Legina (@ladalegina, ladalegina.com)
Jacket Christopher Lowman, top Hila NYC, skirt MIKAGE SHIN, shoes Stuart Weitzman, bracelet Georgina Herrera, Jacket and Skirt Hila NYC , top Elena Rudenko, shoes Underground, ear cuff Lada Legina

Jacket Christopher Lowman, top Hila NYC, skirt MIKAGE SHIN, shoes Stuart Weitzman, bracelet Georgina Herrera, Dress Cessani, jumpsuit Monosuit, shoes Jessica Simpson, belt LALITA

Coat MIKAGE SHIN, shoes Jessica Simpson, Top Hila NYC, jumpsuit RORA, shoes Jessica Simpson, ring Lada Legina
Dress Cessani (@cessani, ), jumpsuit Monosuit (@MONOSUIT, taplink.cc/monosuit), shoes Jessica Simpson (@jessicasimpsonstyle, jessicasimpson.com), belt LALITA (@lalitawhoplays, lalita.com)

Q&A: How Designers Survive Through the Pandemic

By /FASHION/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Q&A: How Designers Survive Through the Pandemic

No doubt, 2020 was a challenging year for all of us. Yet we tried hard overcoming difficulties, accumulating vital energy, and just holding on to hope. The end of the year is a perfect time for reminiscing. Thus, we talked with the four participants of the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia #41 (which we covered earlier in the overview) about their recent experience. Both emerging and established designers from different parts of the world, Lucia Chain, Chelsea Grays, Lilia Kisselenko and Lesia Paramonova, shared their stories, views, and life hacks with PH editorial. Don’t miss!

CHELSEA GRAYS (Cleveland, US / Paris, France)

Fashion designer, stylist, founder of CHELSEA GRAYS

‘M a n y  l e s s o n s  l e a r n t,  n o w  i t‘ s  t i m e  f o r  a c t i o n’

Age: 27

Education: Bachelor’s degree in Psychology (North Carolina Central University), MFA Fashion Design (Academy of Art University, San Francisco); 

Founded CHELSEA GRAYS in: 2019

Awards and competitions: Finalist in CFDA Geoffrey Beene Award (2018), CFDA Future Fashion Designers Showcase (2019), Participant of New York Fashion Week, Winner of GLOBAL TALENTS – MBFW Russia (2019); 

PH: How did you face the first days of the self-imposed isolation? What were your thoughts and concerns and, perhaps, hopes at the time? 

CG: I spent the quarantine in Paris, where policies were very strict compared to the US. I spent this time in my apartment with a sewing machine and was thankful for the opportunity to collaborate with SMHR during the period. First I thought everything was dramatized so when things started getting serious, I felt a bit anxious. I also had to stop working on my collection at La Chambre de Syndicale, and end my internship. I just hoped that it would end soon and life would return to normal.

PH: Where did you spend (are still spending) the quarantine? Do you separate the working and living zones? 

CG: In Paris, with arm guards on every corner, as if COVID-19 was something you could shoot. Now we are back on quarantine from November 1—December 1, but this time things are more relaxed. I spend a lot of time at the park, I just need it. Prior to the pandemic, I used to work at home, but that was a choice. Now it’s a requirement. I live in a small space in Paris, so there isn’t much room to separate work from life. I wake up to work, with an industrial sewing machine next to me, drafting paper, and mannequins. Honestly, I got used to it. 

PH: How do you communicate with your team (personal assistants, studio colleagues)? Do you see the absence of life communication as a big hindrance to the working and creative process?

CG: I would love to have a full team and this is something I am currently building. As for now, I’ve created the recent project alone — design, prints, patterns, just everything. I had all the resources, I just needed to work 24/7. With quarantine, I would also go outside, take a walk, and breathe the air — I am an earth child, that pushes my creativity and my thinking. 

PH: You decided on taking part in the recent season of MBFW Russia (19—23 October, 2020). Did you participate in any other fashion events throughout the pandemic? What’s your relation to virtual events, phygital shows?

CG: I was extremely excited and honored to be mentioned as one of the MBFW Russia Global Talents. Taking into account the current nature of the world, I was glad to participate in a virtual presentation. That’s how I discovered some new options I didn’t know existed, such as virtual models & runway shows, animated robots that look extremely similar to humans. I appreciate that technology allows me to be a part of the amazing events, yet I rather prefer something tangible. 

During the pandemic, I also attended a Virtual Talent Acquisition Event with CFDA and a Fashion Incubator San Francisco Event, both of which were hosted for informational purposes. 

PH: What good has the period of general lull brought you in terms of your design practice? Any lessons learnt, personal discoveries made?

CG: During the pandemic I had plenty of time for self-discovery. As a result, I got more in tune with who I want to be as a designer and what it takes. Many lessons learnt, now it’s time for action. The key thing is I don’t have to and shouldn’t do everything myself. 

PH: Do you feel positive about the future of the fashion industry? Please share your vision of the upcoming changes/trends, if you already have one. 

CG: I am always optimistic. I feel that the future of fashion will be extremely positive, especially for the upcoming designers. Today when everything is performed through the computer and online, every designer shares the same platforms for awareness and has equal opportunities for growth. 

Through fashion we are experiencing unparalleled times. 2020 showed us natural disasters, political distress, marches in the street, and the pandemic. We didn’t have a rule book, thus, people are stressed, hurting, struggling with mental health, angry. That feeling will be expressed in fashion, I’m looking forward to seeing it. 

CHELSEA GRAYS on Instagram: @__chelsea.g

 

LESIA PARAMONOVA (Moscow, Russia) 

Artist, fashion designer, founder of the brand LES

‘I f  t h e  i d e a  i s  p o w e r f u l,  a n  o n l i n e  f o r m a t  w i l l  s h o w  i t’

Age: 30

Education: Russian State University of Tourism and Service (RGUTIS), self-education; 

Founded LES in: 2012

Awards and competitions: Winner of PREVIEW by Cycles & Seasons (2012), Participant of MBFW Russia; 

PH: How did you face the first days of the self-imposed isolation? What were your thoughts and concerns and, perhaps, hopes at the time? 

LP: I neither felt fear, nor any great changes. For me it has just stayed the same. I used to work at my own pace from the very beginning — I’m just more independent in this sense. Now that the world has been put on hold because of the pandemic, all we can do as designers is to keep on working. 

PH: Where did you spend (are still spending) the quarantine? Do you separate the working and living zones? 

LP: I spent my time either at home or in a forest. The reduced number of working visits has cleared my calendar a bit, otherwise, nothing else has affected the creative process of the brand. Thus, a new collection called PAGANS was born during the pandemic. Now all my life revolves around my job, which I just love. As a result, I don’t keep work and spare time separate. 

PH: How do you communicate with your team (personal assistants, studio colleagues)? Do you see the absence of life communication as a big hindrance to the working and creative process?

LP: Distant communication seems usual to me. I used to discuss things remotely with my team even before the pandemic started.  

PH: You decided on taking part in the recent season of MBFW Russia (19—23 October, 2020). Did you participate in any other fashion events throughout the pandemic? What is your relation to virtual events, phygital shows?

LP: Yes, I’m glad that a presentation of the new collection finally took place. It’s a small show — it immerses the viewers into its own world, which I find particularly important in the times when everything has moved online. By the way, I absolutely don’t mind that. If the idea is powerful, an online format will show it. 

PH: What good has the period of general lull brought you in terms of your design practice? Any lessons learnt, personal discoveries made?

LP: The main insight I gained during the quarantine period was to live my life starting from my possibilities and working flow. I could never really follow fashion trends that change so rapidly. And what’s more important, I had no chance to compete with other big brands. In such a situation it’s up to you whether to feel like a loser or ask yourself about your genuine goals and aspirations. Personally I have no investor, my team is little. Yet I’m happy to make things in a sincere, creative, and complex way. May it be the one and only collection per year, but an honest work, a true statement. Any restrictions one faces bring new opportunities. 

PH: Do you feel positive about the future of the fashion industry? Please share your vision of the upcoming changes/trends, if you already have one. 

LP: It’s difficult for me to make any forecasts, while I don’t really belong to the industry of fashion. I would rather call myself an artist. 

LES on Instagram: @les_store

 

LILIA KISSELENKO (St. Petersburg, Russia) 

Fashion designer, founder of the brand KISSELENKO

‘I t’ s  a r t i s t s ,  n o t  m a r k e t e r s ,  w h o  h a v e  c r e a t e d  f a s h i o n  i n  t h e  c o u r s e  o f  h i s t o r y’

Age: 58 

Education: Artistic Modelling, Saint Petersburg State University of Service and Economics (SPbSUSE), Seminars on business fashion (Japan); 

Founded KISSELENKO in: 1998 

Awards and competitions: Named ‘Designer of the Year’ by St. Petersburg Government (1997) and Vogue (2000), Participant of Tallinn Fashion Week and MBFW Russia seasons;

PH: How did you face the first days of the self-imposed isolation? What were your thoughts and concerns and, perhaps, hopes at the time? 

LK: It was 2 weeks after we (hereinafter: KISSELENKO team) had presented our SS 2020 collection, when the first wave of the self-isolation period came. At least, we enjoyed 2 weeks of robust sales.  

PH: Where did you spend (are still spending) the quarantine? Do you separate the working and living zones? 

LK: Unfortunately, I had to stay at home, but I gladly welcomed the opportunity to focus on the interior settings. At the workplace that I visited from time to time I would audit the fabrics and elaborate new ideas.

PH: How do you communicate with your team (personal assistants, studio colleagues)? Do you see the absence of life communication as a big hindrance to the working and creative process?

LK: All of us benefit from temporary solitude, however, it’s hard to achieve one’s goals alone. We established a timetable for our staff working singly in different rooms (e.g. sewing workshops, office space), thus, the production process continued to exist.

PH: You decided on taking part in the recent season of MBFW Russia (19—23 October, 2020). Did you participate in any other fashion events throughout the pandemic? What is your relation to virtual events, phygital shows?

LK: This season all our partners preserved their projects, which helped us a lot. Apart from the season’s collection, we also created costumes for a ballet baroque ‘Union of the Wind and the Sea’, an opera ‘Ariadne auf Naxos’, and presented a collection for the ESTEL show. Our presentation at MBFW went mostly online as we could host only 50 guests because of the pandemic. However, the live broadcast was available to the entire world, which I find fabulous. 

PH: What good has the period of general lull brought you in terms of your design practice? Any lessons learnt, personal discoveries made?

LK: We focused on reaffirming the brand’s importance for our customers and partners, who kept on collaborating with us despite the difficult time. The main thing is to not to stop, continue creating clothes and promoting new ideas by all possible means. 

PH: Do you feel positive about the future of the fashion industry? Please share your vision of the upcoming changes/trends, if you already have one. 

LK: It’s artists, not marketers, who have created fashion in the course of history. Fashion is interesting not for its manifestations of the past, but for its unpredictability and innovative nature. Generating new ideas is only available to those who are creatives and free thinkers. I really hope their value in society will increase in the near future, while people always tend to look trendy, beautiful, and harmonious. 

KISSELENKO on Instagram: @kisselenko

 

LUCIA CHAIN (Buenos Aires, Argentina) 

Fashion designer, founder of the brand CHAIN

‘I  a m  j u s t  a m a z e d  b y  p h y g i t a l  s h o w s’

Age: 32

Education: Architecture, Design, and Urbanism + Sportswear Design (UBA, Argentina), Fashion Business (Marangoni Institute Paris, France)

Founded CHAIN in: 2017

Awards and competitions: Winner of SEMILLERO UBA (2014), Regular Participant of Buenos Aires Fashion Week (BAFWeek), ‘Next green talents’ Nomination by Vogue Italia (2018), Winner of GLOBAL TALENTS – MBFW Russia (2019); 

PH: How did you face the first days of the self-imposed isolation? What were your thoughts and concerns and, perhaps, hopes at the time? 

LC: At first, I was afraid. Knowing what was happening in other parts of the world, I suffered a lot. Later I realized that the surest way to help others is to care about myself. I did my best creating new things and kept in touch with my family, friends and colleagues. 

PH: Where did you spend (are still spending) the quarantine? Do you separate the working and living zones? 

LC: I’m spending the quarantine at home, where, fortunately, I have my studio, too. So it was easy for me to work during these months. 

PH: How do you communicate with your team (personal assistants, studio colleagues)? Do you see the absence of life communication as a big hindrance to the working and creative process?

LC: I never cease communication with my team and clients. Perhaps, it turns into a more human vibe: while speaking with clients, we usually ask each other, how it is going, how our families are… I have stopped traveling, however, it’s digital tools that give me opportunities in times like these.

PH: You decided on taking part in the recent season of MBFW Russia (19—23 October, 2020). Did you participate in any other fashion events throughout the pandemic? What’s your relation to virtual events, phygital shows?

LC: Yes, I participated in MBFW Russia 3 times during the pandemic, as well as in DAB Diseño y Autores Bolivianos (Bolivia), DESIGNERS BA (Argentina), and Brazil Immersive Fashion Week (Brazil). I also took part in lots of international fashion talks and online conversations. I am just amazed by phygital shows. Thanks to a few great 3D artists who have reinterpreted my work and helped me to make my brand more contemporary, now I see a new way to talk about sustainability and the future.

PH: What good has the period of general lull brought you in terms of your design practice? Any lessons learnt, personal discoveries made?

LC: During the quarantine I had more time to work on my conceptual pieces. I also learnt a lot from the collaboration with 3D artists — it helped me understand the world from a different perspective. More recently I have fully realized the importance of human beings who stay behind the brands and the priority of giving work to those who need it. Working empowers, it grants freedom.

PH: Do you feel positive about the future of the fashion industry? Please share your vision of the upcoming changes/trends, if you already have one. 

LC: Yes, I think the fashion industry is already changing. However, the real change is going to happen when some new minds could freely enter the industry and bring their best aspirations to life.

CHAIN on Instagram: @chain_sustainable

Olga Shirokova „solenopsis“

By /FASHION/

SOLENOPSIS

Photographer: Olga Shirokova @redangel_vendetta
Model: Margo Shale @tannmodels @margo.shale
Model: Alexa Smith @alexa.ssmith @tannmodels
Stylist: Egoriy Semenov @egoriysemenov
Makeup Artist: Olga Molchanova @molchanova_makeup
Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Olga Novikova @mua.olga
Model: Kitina @tannmodels @kitinaaaaaaa

Boots: Sintezia; Bodysuit: Extravaganza_magazine; Jacket: Upiter_store

Shorts: Nadenka_vintage; Bodysuit: Nadenka_vintage; Jackboots: Nadenka_vintage; Cloaks: Upiter_store; Jacket: Upiter_store; Boots: Sintezia; Gloves: Extravaganza_magazine; Cloaks: Upiter_store

Jacket: Nadenka_vintage; Bodysuit: Extravaganza_magazine; Gloves: Extravaganza_magazine; Shoes: Upiter_store; Bodysuit: Nadenka_vintage

Bodysuit: Nadenka_vintage; Shorts: Nadenka_vintage; Gloves: Extravaganza_magazine; Jacket: Upiter_store; Bodysuit: Nadenka_vintage; Cloaks: Upiter_store

Bodysuit: Extravaganza_magazine; Gloves: Extravaganza_magazine; Bag: Extravaganza_magazine; Jacket: Upiter_store

Shorts: Nadenka_vintage; Jacket: Upiter_store; Bodysuit: Nadenka_vintage; Cloaks: Upiter_store