Monthly Archives

November 2020

Art Digest: November 23—29

By /ART/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: November 23—29

The law of conservation of energy is universal. Nothing disappears without the trace, nothing perishes eternally. A decision to step back from the industry or the position might come as the end of one road… and the beginning of the other. Feeling open to new experience, new people, and new ideas is essential for keeping artistically fit and just happy. The same I wish to you. Follow the example of the recent Art Digest’s characters and get creative wherever you go. 

A R T &  F A S H I O N   ( C O L L A B ) 

Kenny Scharf breathes street spirit into Dior Homme new collection 

Taking the position of Dior Homme’s creative director for 2 years, Kim Jones has engaged the brand into a number of interesting collaborations, such as those with a designer and a graffiti writer Kaws, a sculptor Daniel Arsham, and an illustrator Hajime Sorayama.

The creative tradition should certainly be continued, this time with the name of Kenny Scharf, American street artist, arriving on the list. On December 8 check the brand’s website to discover the new pre-fall Dior x Kenny Scharf menswear line (no official opening, alas, due to the COVID-19 restrictions).  

The history of the East Village scene, NY’s art community, flourishing in the 80s, would be incomplete without a reference to Kenny Scharf’s figure. Rubbing shoulders with Andy Warhol, Julian Schnabel, Keith Haring, and Jean-Michel Basquiat (and being close friends with the latter two), he contributed to the evolution of New York’s artistic landscape in the 80s, making it more informal and figurative. Kenny Scharf is primarily recognized for his large-scale paintings of anthropomorphic fantastic animals as well the characters of the generally beloved animated sitcoms such as ‘Flintstones’ (premiered in 1960) and ‘Jetsons’ (initially aired in 1962). Unlike the majority of his East Village colleagues, Kenny Scharf is still alive and kicking (read: artistically active) at the age of 62. Learn more about his personality and great life experience from the interview with Dan Golden.

F A S H I O N 

Halima Aden steps back from fashion because of her religious beliefs 

Remember us discussing Halima Aden’s appointment to Diversity Editor-at-Large in Vogue Arabia in June? Things are getting even more interesting: half a year after winning the prestigious position (tailor-made for her) and a few years of successful work in fashion under her belt, the 23-year-old model reports leaving the industry.  Somali-American Halima Aden claims feeling the need to compromise her religious beliefs while taking part in shows and shootings, which she had never found the right thing to do. Yet the revelation came during the times of the pandemic, Aden wrote on her Instagram

Halima Aden was the first hijab-wearing woman to have conquered the fashion world, appearing on runway as well as on the covers of Vogue, Allure, Sports Illustrated etc. Spotted by international modelling agency IMG Models at 18, she took off quickly, however, it seemed to have had a price. Though recording her right to stay hijabed in the working contracts, Halima Aden had to compromise her demands: e.g. while wearing a denim band for American Eagle’s campaign or having a wrap with feathers around her neck at the shoot for Glamour (2017). Indeed, Aden hasn’t completely retired from fashion — she is open to working proposals, the ‘proper’ ones. 

P H O T O G R A P H Y 

Meet true erotic feminism in the new book by Alexandra Leese 

Capturing female nudes is not the destiny of the male gaze alone. UK-based photographer Alexandra Leese felt bored during the early weeks of the first lockdown and started off with a new invigorating project. First she tried posing for the web camera herself. No, in the way girls usually do it, explicitly seeking the attention of a viewer but just the way she liked. Later she would make video calls with different women from all over the world taking portraits of them either with her 35mm Leica or Polaroid camera. 

During the period between April and October, Alexandra Leese created about 43 nude portrait shoots, all of which plus her self-image were included in her latest Me + Mine photobook. Actually, Leese’s models could recall their photographs (the idea was to do things voluntarily), but noone did that. The book printed by Push Print in London is already available for pre-order

P.S. Buy one of the Me + Mine 350 copies and donate money to charity — all profits will be transferred to such NGOs, as the Black Trans Femme in the Arts Collective, the Trans Law Center, and the Rape and Sexual Abuse Support Centre

A R T 

Curator Fatos Üstek not director of Liverpool Biennial anymore 

It was October that Turkish-born art curator Fatos Üstek left her position as director of the Liverpool Biennial with two board members resigning in support of her. Yet it has been officially claimed the other day. Being on the job for 1,5 years, Üstek departed some 3 months before the opening of the biennial in 2021, which initially had to take place from July to October 2020 but was postponed due to the pandemic. 

Such an expected departure and late announcement has to do with an internal disagreement between Üstek and the board of trustees, namely, over the scope of the former’s role within the biennial. Fatos Üstek reports feeling sad about not being able to continue leading the amazing Biennial team and shares her excitement with the dynamic city of Liverpool and gratitude for the support of her colleagues. Meanwhile Samantha Lackey, head of collections and exhibitions at Whitworth Art Gallery (Manchester, UK), has taken the position as the biennial’s interim director.

O P P O R T U N I T I E S 

Share your dreams… for research purposes

If you are London-based or, at least, have been staying in the UK’s capital during the pandemic and you have dreams at night, this opp may interest you. The Museum of London and Canada’s Museum of Dreams have joined their forces to explore the mysterious and immersive process of night dreaming. 

The research project ‘Guardians of Sleep’ (named after the definition coined by British artist Lucian Freud) is to be launched in February 2021. Indeed, the organizers are looking for participants right away. Sharing what you have seen at night during the recent months might contribute to a proper understanding of dream life as a mechanism for working through social conflict and how the pandemic has affected the human condition, the museums’ representatives claim. Dreams of the chosen participants (the most pertinent ones) will get into permanent archives of the institutions, which will become clear during the discussion with a psychosocial scholar. 

Interested? Email at info@museumofdreams.org to learn more and get involved.  

On the cover: Kuku, China (00:15:11). Photo: Alexandra Leese

„I think I am an alien“ – Purplehaze Magazine presents visual artist Ersin Acir

By /ART/
"I think I am an alien” - Purplehaze Magazine presents visual artist Ersin Acir

What inspires you to do what you do?

I am actually my own inspiration. I have a goal. I work with all my strength to achieve this goal. My determination is my greatest inspiration. I search a lot, watch a lot and dream a lot. I think I am different from other people. I think I’m an alien 🙂

How does your process look like?

– The design process starts the moment I enter the Unsplash site. While doing research among thousands of photographs, I also think, „What can I do with this photograph?“ After determining the most suitable photo, an idea is born. I immediately put this idea on a piece of paper and see what I can do. Then, after finding the other necessary materials, I open a clean sheet and start preparing my work. Just like starting a new day … From scratch … Clean …

Moon on the hill

Birds of the Sea

For the sake of a sapling

How does a day in your life look like?

– One day of my life goes like this. Since I generally like to work late at night, I get up a little late and start the day. Because of the pandemic, I am already doing Freelance Graphic Design work from home. I sip my coffee and sit at the right computer and have a look at who has done what on the Behance site. I watch the books I need to read later, the documentaries I should watch, and the last series I continue. Most of my day passes like this.

Instagram Ersin Acura: @ersinacir
Website: ersinacir

“Success is an Emotion”: Interview with Fashion Designer Roma Uvarov

By /FASHION/, /INTERVIEW
Text

Julia Kryshevich

“Success is an Emotion”: Interview with Fashion Designer Roma Uvarov

Roma Uvarov is 23 years old, seven of which he has devoted to fashion. Born in the small city in the south of Russia, he first moved to Moscow to showcase his collection at Fashion Week and take part in a popular TV show about vogue. Internationally acknowledged as an up-and-coming Gen Z designer, Roma Uvarov admits he neither enjoys rubbing elbows in professional circles, nor likes talking too much. However, he has generously shared his life experience with us. More on the contradictory personality of Roma Uvarov (who is a renegade, a romantic, and a hard worker at once), read in the interview below.

PH: You call yourself a visual, and it is reflected in your biography. While attending the PR faculty, you felt disappointed in the learning process and took up some creative pastimes such as Photoshop classes and reading self-help books. Why fashion? After all, it requires some hard skills like sewing and stitching… 

R.U: Even before entering the university, I thought of running my own business. You know, I realized the irrelevance of public education rather early — it just makes you lose your interest in the subject chosen. However, I felt the need to study marketing so that I could promote and present my business in the future. There are many examples like that today, when a really good artist or a graphic designer just can’t tell the audience what his works are about. 

In my case, I was impressed by fashion from early on, watching TV shows as a kid and trying to make conceptual collages later. Yet I wouldn’t think of becoming a fashion designer at the time! But at a certain point I started thinking about my plans for life, asked myself what I wanted to achieve… and then Olya Sadovaya came along. Olya is quite a prominent fashion designer in Krasnodar, the city I was staying during my studies. So, yes, we met at some local party and she offered me a job at her studio.

PH: That’s how you received your first job offer in fashion. When did you have a feeling you were ready for more?

R.U: In Olya’a studio I was responsible for social media marketing and brand promotion. My boss was satisfied with my work, so quite soon my duties were expanded. I became Olya’s right hand, together we elaborated new collections, making them cool, unusual without spending much money. Otherwise it wouldn’t work as we needed to stay within the modest budget of the studio (I even worked for free for 2,5 years there). Then Olya would marry, have a child and, obviously, step back a bit… At some point I realized I got to move on, so I started thinking of setting up my own label.

PH: So you left? 

R.U: When I first tried making clothes myself, I felt something had changed. Back then I was young and active and open to experience. I experimented a lot while still working for Olya and finally I decided to launch my brand of sweatshirts. I think it was 2016. Since then I’ve been signing my clothes, which brought the competitive spirit in my relations with the head of the studio. 

The last straw was the arrival of a potential (and long-awaited) investor, who was ready to support us financially on the condition that he could influence the brand’s politics and vision. Of course, I wasn’t ok with that. One day I left the studio. Working as an independent designer now I always strive for autonomy. I don’t look back at the others, I try to create something brand new. Yes, I’m an introvert, yet I love finding myself in the flow of life. 

PH: What collection do you consider your first one?

R.U: That’s hard. I see a collection as a pool of looks and garments, something big… While working for Olya Sadovaya, it still wasn’t like that. When I got separated, yes, that’s another story. My first collection consisted of T-shirts, just a merch. I would get bored soon, so I switched to creating fully-fledged ready-to-wear looks.

PH: In 2018 you debuted at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. You’ve been a regular participant of the fashion event ever since. However, we didn’t see any collections by Roma Uvarov Design in the recent seasons of MBFW (April and October, 2020), which ran mostly online. Why? 

R.U: Oh yes, I perfectly remember how it was. A few months before the MBFW we (hereinafter, Roma Uvarov Design team) wrote a letter to the organizers of the event complaining that young regional brands, unlike the Moscow-based ones, don’t receive any financial support. So they agreed to help us! 

Concerning the latest seasons, Roma Uvarov Design should have participated in the program in April, however, the life shows were cancelled and we didn’t want to engage in digital format. Personally I don’t feel anything special while staring at the screen… Together with my assistant I headed to my homeland Adygeya to wait out the period of quarantine… and then the MBFW organizers reached me. It was three days before the event and they eventually wanted me to take part! So we created a series of mood boards with some bright colleges that looked somewhat bizarre, just in the spirit of the brand. 

Of course, I hoped for a life MBFW taking place in autumn, I wished I could show two collections by Roma Uvarov Design at once. Unfortunately, it has even got worse in terms of the pandemic, so we decided to make a separate life fashion show inviting guests, constructing some art objects, all in all, making up an entire concept. 

PH: By the way, in the recent season of MBFW there were a few participants of the Krasnodar-based ‘Fashion a la Russe’ project, namely, Olga Kazakova, Nadezhda Belousova, Valeria Klimovskikh. Do you know any of them? You might have crossed paths while hanging around in the designers’ community in Krasnodar. 

R.U: To be perfectly honest, none of the names sound familiar to me. While working in Krasnodar, I desperately sought an opportunity of working independently, thus, I was for separation from the professional community. On the whole, I’m not good at getting on with those people who I differ on certain points with. It brings negativity to my life, which I constantly try to avoid. Actually, you don’t have time to chat, when you are all about work. 

By the way, it was the ‘Fashion a la Russe’ project that helped me to get to my first MBFW. Although I could take part in the event for free, I badly needed money for the trip and accommodation and staging the show… We turned to ‘Fashion a la Russe’, and they provided us with some financial support, so we could showcase our collection in Moscow and in St. Petersburg the next day. 

PH: You also took part in ‘Podium’ (editor’s note: the Russian counterpart for ‘Project Runway’ reality TV show). What do you think of that experience? Do you see it rather as a way to promote yourself or an opportunity to level up, advance your design skills? Is it real at all to learn something on TV shows that are primarily meant to entertain the audience? 

R.U: You can always learn something in any situation. The thing is to realize what and how you can learn in specific circumstances. Frankly speaking, I don’t enjoy being solely identified with ‘Podium’, because the collections I launch under Roma Uvarov Design are superior to anything I did on the project. What I do now is more sincere and laborious, however, I love reminiscing about those times on the project. 

Taking part in ‘Podium’ turned out to be a tremendously new experience for me. For 2 months I and the other participants stayed in a hotel where we did nothing but worked and interacted with each other (on camera, of course). We neither could use our mobile devices, nor chat with strangers on the streets. The pressure was strong, which made us do our best. 

As for the TV show itself, it would be an exaggeration to claim that ‘Podium’ focused on vogue. First of all, it was a reality show about designers, an old-fashioned one, I might say. Just imagine a group of fashion designers competing for the title of the best tailor or cutter. That hardly matches reality, does it? Obviously, I wanted to promote myself participating in ‘Podium’. It was 2018, I already graduated from the university and was planning to settle down in Moscow. The project just quickened the move and made a great ad campaign to my T-shirts collection (which I, actually, foresaw). 

PH: Today many young creatives face the issue of self-positioning. In the modern world it seems ok to promote oneself on every corner. However, sometimes that can prevent the person from striving for quality of the product. How do you figure out this problem? 

R.U: I just realize the brand’s DNA. It absolutely coincides with my DNA as a designer. Roma Uvarov Design is all about the taste, it’s really subjective. Thus, the promotion of myself and my brand are twin interdependent processes. I am personally engaged in PR support and other tasks. I don’t find it right to devote all the time to creativity — one also needs to market and establish the working process. All in all, my job is very important and reasonable, I would hardly call it creative. But one thing for sure, I purely enjoy it. 

By the way, I’m a big fan of restrictions. To my mind, a free person is the one who establishes some frameworks and lives with them. Otherwise, I just mess around clutching at everything (If only I could do all those things perfectly). I also don’t enjoy having free time, it discourages me. 

PH: Back to your collections. One could call you an upcycle-designer: you take some long-forgotten things and use them as decorative elements in the outfits. Is it just a creative approach or you follow here an eco-friendly mission? 

R.U: It’s a kind of inner impulse. I want to recycle the old material to give it a second life. About 80% of my first collection was manufactured under the upcycling principle. I have always been into upcycling, but in the beginning of the pandemic I felt the relevance of that issue anew. 

The question that I faced at the time was what to do with the winter collection that I couldn’t fully present. So we together with the NOB agency (editor’s note: Roma Uvarov Design is presented by the Moscow-based fashion bureau and showroom NOB agency) decided to collect all the unused materials to integrate them into the new out-of-season collection. There were so many things that we feared not to be able to cover them all. However, we managed to do that. Nothing had been thrown away, the upcycling policy was also applied to the production of accessories. 

PH: Minimalism is all the rage. People try to get rid of the extra items and obsessions. Collections by Roma Uvarov Design don’t really fit into this philosophy, right? 

R.U: To begin with, Roma Uvarov Design is not about following fashion trends. Surely, we elaborate our collections in compliance with some principles that we share such as calm, rationality, body consciousness. However, I don’t think that minimalism is so trendy. Folks have always liked standing out of the crowd. Thus, in the nearest future it might be appropriate to talk about austerity blended with a grain of personal approach. 

How do you define ‘success’?  

R.U: Well, it’s tricky. On the one hand, success is about stability with everyone doing one’s own thing, enjoying it and charging for it, of course. On the other hand, I, personally, feel successful when facing some unexpected projects, stepping out of my comfort zone. The latter is even a better fit for me. Unfortunately, the industry of fashion in Russia doesn’t develop that quickly. Sometimes I feel like my job doesn’t fulfill me, everything goes so regular. Yet under stress I feel a lot happier. Say, success is an emotion. Every team should have it, because it unites and enriches all of us. 

PH: And final question, how has the pandemic affected your creative process in terms of goal setting? 

R.U: I find the COVID-19 pandemic a very interesting time with no bindings existing. No doubt, there are still some unwritten canons for designers: e.g. one should launch new campaigns. But at the same time one is free to work at their own pace and on their terms. It feels like life has been put on pause. 

I had the same thing. In early spring 2020 I went home to the sunny Adygeya. In fact, I didn’t have to work, so I spent my time reflecting. As a result, I started accepting myself. Before that I used to be afraid of calling myself a romantic (that I obviously was). I thought it went against the grain of my public image. I used a pretentious look as a protection means against the world around me. Today I have every confidence that clothes should play up a personality, and not vice versa. I have also reviewed the history of my family. It’s the new genuine Roma Uvarov standing before you now with fresh green blood running through his veins.

All photographs provided and owned by Roma Uvarov Design

Marilù Venditti „immersion in art“

By /FASHION/

IMMERSION IN ART

PHOTOGRAPHER: Marilù Venditti @mariluvenditti_ph
MAKEUP & HAIR: Bianca Panzironi @biancapanzironi
STYLIST: Simona Lavia @monalavia
MODEL: Petra Vukotic @petramodeling
MODEL AGENCY: Select Milano @selectmodelmilano

color shirt: Zara; white shirt: Carlo Siviero; blazer: Simon Cracker; collant: Stylist own; shoes: Stylist own; hat: Vintage

top: Carlo Siviero; trench: Simon Cracker; socks: Stylist own; shoes: Vintage; hat: Vintage; Top: vintage; Sweatshirt: stylist own; Pant skirt: Carlo Siviero; Socks: stylist own; Shoes: vintage;

shirt: Stylist own; gilet: Carlo Siviero; dress: 1First; socks: Gucci; shoes: Asos

shirt: Stylist own; gilet: Carlo Siviero; dress: 1First; socks: Gucci; shoes: Asos

Top: vintage; Sweatshirt: stylist own; Pant skirt: Carlo Siviero; Socks: stylist own; Shoes: vintage

shirt: Stylist own; gilet: Carlo Siviero; bazer: Simon Cracker; top: Vintage; gilet: Carlo Siviero; pants: Carlo Siviero; belt: Carlo Siviero; socks: Stylist own; shoes: Stylist own;

shirt: Stylist own; gilet: Carlo Siviero; bazer: Simon Cracker; pants: Carlo Siviero; socks: stylist own; shoes: vintage; brooches: sheila cunha

Eileen Aolani „shape of ease“

By /FASHION/

SHAPE OF EASE

Photographer: Eileen Aolani @eileenaolani
Hair & Make up: Tanja Schuster @schuster_tanja
Styling: Sabine Holderer @sabineholderer.styling
Model: Charlotte @charlotteneujean @munichmodels

Jacket: Diesel; Body: Triumph; Jeans: Anna Schuster

Jumpsuit: Laurin Schuler; Shoes: Di Nuovo; Dress: Laurin Schuler; Blouse: Calvin Klein Jeans

Vest: Diesel;  Sleeves: Laurin Schuler; Blouse: Tommy Jeans; Shoes: Steve Madden; Jacket: Anna Schuster; Jumpsuit: Laurin Schuler

Hoodie: Adidas Originals; Jacket: Diesel; Blouse: Calvin Klein Jeans; Jumpsuit: Laurin Schuler; Shoes: Di Nuovo

Vest: Diesel; Sleeves: Laurin Schuler; Blouse: Tommy Jeans; Shoes: Steve Madden

“CURVES ‘n’ FORMS” Collage Group Exhibition

By /NEWS/
“CURVES ‘n’ FORMS” Collage Group Exhibition
“CURVES ‘n’ FORMS”
Collage Group Exhibition, 2020
03 – 17 December 2020
HAZEGALLERY Berlin
Curated by Irina Rusinovich
Coordinated by Liubow Melnikowa
Collage describes both the technique and the resulting work of art in which pieces of paper, photographs, fabric and other ephemera are arranged and stuck down onto a supporting surface.
The first artist to work exclusively in collage technique was Kurt Schwitters, who continues the traditions of the Surrealists and Dadaists. He expanded the scope of materials and objects used for collage. His small, but very sophisticated compositional works consisted of pieces of paper, bus tickets, labels, coupons. In about 1912–13 Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque extended this technique, combining fragments of paper, wood, linoleum, and newspapers with oil paint on canvas to form subtle and interesting abstract or semiabstract compositions. The development of the collage by Picasso and Braque contributed largely to the transition from Analytical to Synthetic Cubism.
“Collage allows the opening up of conscious, which is very direct…its also a way of looking at what you are consuming all the time” – John Stezaker
In search for new forms and discoveries there were many interesting events, experimenters in the history of collage. In our time, digital collage and collage-photomontage are firmly entrenched. The boundaries of these concepts are practically erased when manipulating an image with the help of computer programs. Nevertheless, an analog collage, the one made of scraps of tickets, wrappers, newspapers, advertisements and magazines, remains accessible to a wider circle of people and depends on the imagination of the author himself, on the desire to do something unusual and surreal, perhaps funny, philosophical and metamorphic.
HAZEGALLERY is happy to represent its new group exhibition “CURVES ‘n’ FORMS” which is devoted to collage art only.
Contacts
haze.gallery
contact@haze.gallery

Art Digest (November 16—22)

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest (November 16—22)

Terms like ‘sustainability’, ‘recyclable materials’ are trending today, inter alia, and especially in the field of fashion, but what’s behind those beautiful words? Dow Jones Sustainability Index annually names clothing brands who call themselves eco-friendly not in vain. Sometimes it takes time to change the policy of the company or personal attitudes and habits, but it’s certainly worth it. Actually, waiting can sometimes be a good thing. Just look at the Moncler ex-creative director Alber Elbaz who took a five-year gap before launching his own brand. Or the King of pop art Andy Warhol who failed to publish some of his most tempting early works in life but his followers did it for him. Change for the better is yet to come, just pave your way and keep moving, albeit slowly.

F A S H I O N 

The eco-friendliest from fashion: Dow Jones Sustainability Index marks Moncler

In case you didn’t know, Dow Jones Sustainability Index is a group of benchmarks for investors evaluating the stock performance of the leading companies on the market. Considering economic, environmental and social responsibility criteria, DJSI annually comes up with the rating of the ‘very best’ manufacturers in various sectors. The Italian luxury fashion brand Moncler famous for its ski wear was recently conferred the leading position in the category ‘Textile, Apparel & Luxury Goods’ of the DJSI rating. And you know what’s best? Moncler has been the leader already for 2 years running.

While Moncler’s CEO Remo Ruffini solemnly claims, sustainability is an increasingly strategic asset in the development of the company (and there is hardly any room for doubt with the Moncler’s ‘Born to Protect’ new sustainability plan), some other fashion brands seem to have lagged far behind. The non-profit organization Remake didn’t include H&M and Uniqlo in its sustainability ranking, as the both brands have failed to score at least 50 out of the 100 points required. 

Alber Elbaz is back to big fashion (not empty-handed, of course) 

Casablanca-born fashion designer Alber Elbaz (b. 1961) is no stranger to the world of haute couture. After taking positions at a few fashion houses, he finally joined Lanvin as the brand’s creative director in 2001. 14 years later Elbaz announced his exit from the company, which was officially associated with the disagreement between the designer and Lanvin’s major shareholder, Shaw-Lan Wang. Meanwhile Alber Elbaz didn’t waste his time giving lectures all over the world and working independently, also as an artist.

A year ago the designer expressed his determination to return to the game planning to found his own brand. Initially to be named as AZ Fashion, Elbaz’s brainchild has been recently launched, five years after Alber Elbaz left Lanvin. The newly-minted AZ Factory falls under the portfolio of the Swiss Compagnie Financière Richemont, with the first collection by the brand being presented at the upcoming Paris Fashion Week in January. According to Alber Elbaz, AZ Factory is not a revolution, not an evolution, (but) a reset. The designer sees his mission in combining function and fashion and helping people to be a better version of themselves, by no means trying to transform his customers.

A R T 

Visiting Noguchi Museum? Buy a print by Futura and Murakami 

Remember us talking about the graffiti artist Futura aka FUTURA 2000 at the previous digest? He has recently engaged in cooperation with the late sculptor Isamu Noguchi at the NY-based Noguchi Museum, which resulted in the ‘Futura Akari’ exhibition (on view through February 28, 2021). To commemorate and promote the show, the museum launched a series of print editions designed by FUTURA 2000 and Takashi Murakami. Nothing to expect here but a win-to-win collaboration.

In August 2020 Futura was to have his solo show at Kaikai Kiki Gallery (Tokyo, Japan) founded by Takashi Murakami himself to showcase the artists chosen. However, the pandemic interfered with the plans adjourning the exhibition until summer 2021. In the meantime, Futura and Takashi are, so to speak, shaking hands under the roof of the Noguchi Museum symbolizing the cultural dialogue between Japan and the US and selling off their prints. The rule is one (printed edition) per person, otherwise, the release is fairly available to the museum’s customers. 

Andy Warhol’s intimate drawings released for the first time 

At a time when Andy Warhol or, to be more precise, Andrew Warhola was conquering the New York’s art scene while still a young shy man, he barely regarded his interim drawings as serious art. Trying to sell some of his sketches to glossies, Andy scribbled for the soul, depicting the subjects of his inspiration. Oftentimes Warhol would get the attention on young nude men as if he had seen many in the rise of his career. Naked, aroused, engaged in sexual acts such as fellatio or masturbation, the characters of Warhol’s early works embody a highly tabooed theme even for such a fast-paced environment as New York’s society in the 50s.  

Despite all fears, the future King of Pop Art dared to show his exposed images to Bodley Gallery, one of the premier art galleries in the Big Apple in 1956, but he never got to publish the drawings in a monograph. Today 33 years after Andy Warhol’s death, the world-famous German publisher Taschen showcases 300 of the artist’s bold sketches selected by the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts. The collection is published on the pages of ‘Andy Warhol, Love, Sex and Desire, Drawings 1950-1962 book, which is released in a limited number of 7,500. Order one of the numbered copies now, on the publisher’s website.

P H O T O G R A P H Y 

Foam Talent 2020 goes digital (now you can discover the winners) 

It’s the end of 2020, and that means Foam traditionally announces this year winners of Foam Talent. Visual artists under the age of 35 selected by the Amsterdam-based photography organization are annually granted with such worthy prizes as a publication in Foam Magazine, participation in a travelling group exhibition and a chance to have their works added to Art Collection Deutsche Börse.

Since Foam Talent 2020 can’t reach the planned locations like Paris and London to organize the winner’s show, the entire initiative moved digital without any difficulty. Among the 19 winners of the year there are aspiring photographers from Nigeria, Brazil, Italy, France, Switzerland, Canada, US, China, Thailand, Greece, and other countries. Enter the talent.foam.org platform to discover all the works or, at least, enjoy our brief selection above. 

On the cover: ‘Stay Soft’ by Micha Serraf (Zimbabwe). Courtesy of Foam Talent

And don’t forget to subscribe

Artem Ionov „morana’s resurrection“

By /FASHION/

MORANA’S RESURRECTION

Photographer: Artem Ionov @artemionov
Wardrobe Stylist: Sasha Baryshnya @baryshnya_sasha @baryshnya_works
Makeup Artist: Ekaterina Prokopeva @ekaterinaprokopeva
Model: Posuhova Polina @posuhovap Irina Kichigina
Hair Stylist: Yana Dyachenko @dyachenko.yana

Left: MaxMara studio dress, right: MaxMara studio blouse, MaxMara trousers

coat Etro; MaxMara studio lace dress

Left: MaxMara studio dress, right: MaxMara studio blouse, MaxMara trousers; MaxMara dress

Left: Emporio Armani dress, right: MaxMara dress; Etro coat and dress, GUESS boots

Top Armani, bottom Sportmax; Left: Emporio Armani dress, right: MaxMara dress

Art Digest: November 09—15

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: November 09—15

Whatever the current situation is (yes, it smells like a worldwide epidemiologic crisis with COVID-19 striking hard and showing no signs of stopping), it’s essential to put ourselves together and hope for the best. At least, we should try to — you know, optimists live longer. Catch a selection of some cheering-up, exquisite news. There are many visuals, as usual, for you to enjoy, however, this time they are also in motion 🔥

F A S H I O N 

Christmas campaign by Burberry breaks the ice (in both senses)

Another fashion show, even a digital one, is a blend thing to do, the brand’s creative leaders might have thought and decided to act rather unconventionally. The new Christmas campaign by Burberry is an enthralling video featuring a dance collective (La)Horde, not only performing the choreographed moves but also brilliantly interacting with some falling blocks of ice. Following the famous ‘fight or flight’ principle, dancers either broke the blocks or gracefully escaped from them in the video.

Add to that the generally beloved ‘I’m Singing in the Rain’ by Gene Kelly (which served both as a soundtrack and a scenario for the video campaign) and the spirit of Christmas floating in the air. Gloomy London streets light up with the foretaste of a miracle that all of us await annually. Burberry really put one bullet in the bullseye, playing upon such a glorious feeling that is meant to unite and cheer up people in this time of a year. As for the outfits featured, it’s very Burberriantweed coats and jackets in tartan, and the brand’s signature colors, black, beige, mid camel, birch brown, and a few other shades.

Game On: Louis Vuitton shoots Lea Seydoux for its new cruise collection 

James Bond’s girl in ‘Spectre’ (2015), Beauty in ‘La belle et la bêtea’ (2014), and a mind-blowing blue-haired bisexual in ‘La Vie d’Adèle’ (2013), which was honored with numerous cinema awards including the Palme D’Or A fascinating French actress, Lea Seydoux is the one who perfectly knows the rules of transformation. Even though I’m not in favor of highlighting fashion campaigns featuring celebrities (the very fact of a star-cast doesn’t necessarily make the ad much better), but as for Lea Seydoux’ case posing for Louis Vuitton — I just couldn’t pass by.

Here I’m talking about ‘Game On’, Louis Vuitton’s 2021 Cruise Collection by artistic director of women’s line Nicolas Ghesquière. Seydoux, who, by the way, has become the brand’s new face earlier this year, agreed to star in the 30-second playful video where she shuffles the cards, shows her hands, and seems to be ready to gamble. In other words, the actress plays the campaign topic of game cards and carries the role of 007 woman along the way. No doubt, in ‘Game On’ Nicolas Ghesquière stays true to Louis Vuitton’s legendary manner, showcasing it’s well-known monograph on bags and shoes and clothing. Yet there is a fresh detail — four suits of cards integrated in the design of the collection.

Diane von Furstenberg to design H&M Home collection 

Probably the most famous fast-fashion clothing brand worldwide, Swedish-born H&M wins over shoppers’ hearts not only by smooth supplies and outfits for all tastes, but also for its fascinating collaborations. The idea to mingle mass market clothing and haute couture design isn’t not new but it works, and H&M knows it. Since 2004 the brand has been collaborating annually with such fashion giants as Stella McCartney (2005), Roberto Cavalli (2007), Sonia Rykiel (2010), Balmain (2015), and others. Now it’s time for Belgian designer Diane von Furstenberg to get on stage.

‘With this collaboration, I want people to take charge of their home decor. The only rule I have is that your home should reflect who you are’. (Diane von Furstenberg) 

Yes, the thing is, the new collaboration is not about clothing. It’s cushions, blankets, candles, vases (home accessories, in a word) that Diane von Furstenberg is going to design for H&M very soon. Surely, all the garments will be marked with DVF’s signature prints and patterns, though the latter is probably not the most distinguishing finding by the designer. Von Furstenberg wrote her name in the history of fashion as she created the wrap-dress in 1974. Her interior collection for H&M Home is expected to hit the stores’ shelves in 2021.

J U S T   C U T E 

No food truck tour but still great: Coca Cola’s pre-holiday The Letter campaign 

One more example of a heart-warming Christmas campaign has been recently announced by Coca Cola. This year due to COVID-19 no annual truck tour is possible, the company representatives have noted with dismay. However, that doesn’t cancel any traditional celebrations of the festive season. The new video campaign is called ‘The Letter’. Directed by the Oscar-winning filmmaker Taika Waititi, it features a cosy family story playing out in the lead up to Christmas. 

Not spoiling the ad’s captivating narrative, it might be suffice to tell the main message: give something (for Christmas) only you can give – yourself. So, get ready to give a little cry and feel happy like a child while watching. And special treats don’t end there. The company relaunches its cinnamon flavour for the upcoming Christmas season. The legendary food truck tour might come back next year, the Coca Cola team hopefully states on Twitter

A R T 

Futura Akari: when art renegades from two ages meet

Leonard Hilton McGurr, better known as Futura or FUTURA 2000, is a American rebel from the world of graffiti famous for his abstract approach to ‘bombing’. Born in New York in 1955, Futura underwent a period of illegal street painting in the 70s, landing with numerous exhibitions and world tours along with his artist mates such as Keith Haring, Jean Michele Basquiat, and Kenny Scharf somewhat later. His American-Japanese senior colleague Isamu Noguchi, a sculptor and a designer, made it famous discovering his Akari light sculptures (among other things, of course) around the time Futura was born.

Interestingly enough, Futura’s works on canvas caught the eye of art galleries in the 80s, just when Isamu Noguchi was finishing his creative and life journey (the famous sculptor died in 1988). So what’s the point of this whole story? The NY-based Noguchi Museum is currently presenting an installation of the Akari light sculptures hand painted by FUTURA 2000. While quite a few artists used to paint Isamu Noguchi’s objects at various times, now Futura has set his abstract brush strokes on the group of Akari light sculptures dating from 1952–86. The ‘Futura Akari’ exhibition will run at The Noguchi Museum from November 11, 2020 – February 28, 2021.

P.S. If you enjoy the show and feel like you just can’t get enough art by Futura, check his solo exhibition at Eric Firestone Gallery, which is open until the late December. 

On the cover: Burberry Christmas campaign. Photo: Raphael Pavarotti