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Mai 2023

Broemaand “WATCH ME RISE”



Photographer Broemaand @broemaand
Stylist Josephine Herfst @j.herfst
Make up artist & Hair Shakira @shakira_mua
Model Hugo @hugovanboven @innocencemodelagancy 
Studio @studioletterie

LOOK 1 Hat Marianne Jongkind @mariannejongkind Mesh top Object & Dawn @objectanddawn Leather pants Tim Couwenberg @tii______________ Shoes Filling Pieces @fillingpieces LOOK 2 Hat Marianne Jongkind @mariannejongkind Rings The pool jewelry @thepooljewelry

LOOK 1 Boots stylist archive Leather pants Afura @afurastore Crop tops Paulina Meyle @paulinameyle Chain necklace The pool jewelry @thepooljewelry LOOK 2 Chain necklace The pool jewelry @thepooljewelry

Look 1 Green hat Marianne Jongkind @mariannejongkind Rings The pool jewelry @thepooljewelry Look 2 Hat Marianne Jongkind @mariannejongkind Mesh top Object & Dawn @objectanddawn Leather pants Tim Couwenberg @tii______________

Look 1 grey skirt Vanderwilt-Amsterdam @vanderwiltamsterdam Necklace The pool jewelry @thepooljewelry Boots stylist archive Look 2 black hat Marianne Jongkind @mariannejongkind grey skirt Vanderwilt-Amsterdam @vanderwiltamsterdam Boots stylist archive

Green hat Marianne Jongkind @mariannejongkind Rings The pool jewelry @thepooljewelry

Interview with Vadim Vasilis


Vadim Vasilis  /photo , Issa Tall /   text,  Irina Rusinovich

Interview with the Paris-based model Vadim Vasilis
What does it take to be a model today? How does one get there, how does one keep fit and stay inspired? We have talked to Vadim Vasilis, a French-Greek model in Paris, about what drives him, and what he is working on at the moment
What made you want to become a model?

I came back from Bulgaria where I was doing a training course before the soccer season, in full questioning and psychological fatigue, I returned to Greece, where I realized that I had reached my limits concerning my career in soccer.

When I came back, I told myself that I was going to refocus on my goals, and it was at that moment, during a party in Greece, that a lady asked me if I was interested in fashion and I confess that I had never thought about it before. From then on, my view on what I wanted to do with my life changed, I said to myself why not, I wanted to change my life, I was no longer happy in what I was doing in the past, I was tired and worn out of this life while another one opened its arms to me.

Vadim Vasilis, photo Fabien Caudy

Being an international model, how has your life changed? 

I’m just starting out, whether it’s international or not, I for one haven’t seen or experienced anything, I still have everything to prove, but regardless you have to give it your best shot.

I suppose that the international would make me spend more time in transport and that I would have to work more on my dark circles with the jet lag.

No more jokes, the international induces the knowledge of the habits and customs of the different countries I will travel to in order to adapt myself, but always in the spirit of staying true to who I am.


You are from Greece, what are your 3 favorite places in your country and why?

My mountain in the Peloponese, a dry, arid place in the middle of nowhere, without any comfort. I lived there for part of my childhood with my grandparents. It is an isolated, rustic place with a mystical atmosphere, it is where everything started for me, I was marked by this period of my life and it is the basis of what I embody today.

 The various creeks near the family village in the Argolid I learned to swim, to fish following the example of my father who fished octopus, various fish and shellfish with his harpoon. In the evening, we would stay by the sea in a „caliva“, a small wooden hut that a close friend of my father had, where we would grill our catch of the day while watching the sun set.

The family village in Greece had this summer atmosphere, where we ate meals together, where I was constantly invited to eat everywhere, an active lifestyle, from getting up in the morning where I liked to go with my uncles, to the goats and sheep in the mountains, to our time spent at the beach. Soccer games would be set up when the temperature started to drop, then going home, showering outside with the hose, and finally going for a walk in the evening.

Vadim Vasilis, photo Issa Tall

How do you maintain your physique?

Sport and a healthy lifestyle!  I mainly do cardio to lengthen the muscles and draw on stored fat, I supplement a little with muscle strengthening.

My background in sports allows me to know what I need to work on. But for the time being, I do a lot less weight training than before, the goal is to be slim but not thick, so for that I exercise with much lighter weights. And I do long sets.

What brand would you like to work with in the future?

Very interesting question! There are a lot of artists I would like to work with:

Marine Serre for her esoteric and mystical touch

Balenciaga for the underground side

Jean-Paul Gaultier because he manages to make harmonious what is scattered.

But many others, Vivienne Westwood, undercover, Ambush, in fact I have so many brands that correspond to my way of being and my universe, even young designers that many ignore for the moment, but who are so talented.

We all have our difficulties to accomplish our goals, what are yours?

My impatience above all.

I admit that I am a difficult character to understand, I am my true and proper enemy, but also my true and proper brother. Everything is paradoxical about me.

I am a character who is always thinking, intense, and complicated to temper, my sensitivity often has the upper hand on me, but I will manage to tame it.

Vadim Vasilis, photo Raphael de l´Orme

Can you tell us the funniest or most interesting anecdote that happened to you since you became a model ?

That’s not a simple question, because there is really a lot of intensity in this business, so much movement, everything is ephemeral except, of course, some of the encounters you can make, but unfortunately I don’t have anything else that comes to mind right now.

You have a lot of tattoos, tell us about your three favorites.

I do have a lot of tattoos, all of them have their meaning, but it’s my secret garden 😉

I remain very mysterious and modest about some things concerning me, I reveal myself with time to people who inspire me, I trust my intuition, however my body is a rebus, when you know a little my life, my essence, you can try to play with what you see, but I remain intimate.

Is it an obstacle to have so many tattoos on your body as a model?

Yes and no, it depends on the artistic direction, the designer, the work required. It can be a brake as the opposite, but it is the game, after that it depends also on what you give off as energy, it is a whole. But you need something for everyone, you just have to be subtle.

What is your work rhythm at the moment?

Intense, at the very moment I’m writing this interview, I’m on various things at the same time, it’s not easy, you have to be organized and of course very well accompanied and I thank Nadine Dinter who takes care of my image today, who is there for me, who helps me, supports me, gives me a lot of advice, I thank life for having put Nadine on my way, it’s an encounter from elsewhere and I think we will be brought to collaborate for a long time on several projects.

             Vadim for @stephanethakid Paris 2022                                                                                                                           Paris 2022Vadim for @gillesasq, Paris 2022

How do you relax?

It is difficult for a hyperactive person like me to relax…

I’m always thinking about different things, I always have ideas in my head, I’m full of desire and energy, to go ahead, to work, to do sports, to discover, so to relax is not an easy task, even when I take a break I feel like I’m wasting my time.

But I will have time to relax when I have accomplished what I have to accomplish…

For the moment I am in full work, no time to sleep.

What are your current/upcoming projects?

I have a lot of projects going on: magazines, advertising campaigns, fashion week to prepare. It’s an environment where you have to be reactive at the moment…

The universe is vast, it’s up to me to make the right choices and to be receptive and attentive to the signs of life.

Follow Vadim on IG at @vadimvasilis

Andrea Varlaro „SAUDADE“



Photographer Andrea Varlaro @andreavarlaro
Photographer Assistant Diana Matalucci @dianamatalucci
Stylist Giuseppe Troncone @gggiuseppeee__________
Stylist Assistant Mariachiara Civitella @mariachiara_civitella
Make up artist & Hair Carla Martino @skarlatta_makeup_and_hair
Model Iris Natale @irisnatale @bravemodels
Production Palazzo Studio

Total look Carolina Popa @carolina.apop; Coat Aenema  

Dress Giulia De Santis @gl.dsn; Total look Carolina Popa @carolina.apop

Total look Stylist Archive

Dress Giulia De Santis @gl.dsn

 Total look Carolina Popa @carolina.apop; Dress Giulia De Santis @gl.dsn

Top Stylist archive Slip bikini Josàn @josan_official

Taya Jevtic „IN THE SHADOWS“



Art direction & photography: Taya Jevtic @tayajevtic
Creative director and Fashion stylist: Miguel Maldonado @miguelmaldonadostylist
Make-up and hair: Rafa Delgado
Model: Dana Herfurth @danaherfurth

Jacket and skirt-FADE OUT Label @fadeoutlabelwww.fadeoutlabel.comBlouse-Manakaa Project @manakaa_projectwww.manakaaproject.comHigh heels–H&M @hm

Trench coat–FADE OUT Label@fadeoutlabelwww.fadeoutlabel.comBlouse-Manakaa Project @manakaa; Trench coat–VERO MODA @veromodaBlouse-Jihun Ko @i_dnttSkirt–FADE OUT Label@fadeoutlabel

Blouse-VERO MODA @veromodaMesh jacket-FADE OUT Label@fadeoutlabelwww.fadeoutlabel.comSkirt and chaps-Jihun Ko @i_dnttHigh heels-H&M @hm

Jumpsuit – FADE OUT Label @fadeoutlabel Blouse – Manakaa Project @manakaa_project; Jeans – FADE OUT Label @fadeoutlabel Blazer – ONLY @only_official

Dress – Manakaa Project @manakaa_project Gloves – Jihun Ko @i_dntt

Suit – JJXX @jjxx_official High heels – H&M @hm

Interview with photographer Alexander Platz


Text by Lyubov Melnickowa

Interview with photographer Alexander Platz

Tell us a little about yourself. As an art photographer, you have a very unusual background. Please tell our readers more about it.

My name is Alexander Platz and I was born in Berlin. In 1984, when I was nineteen, I joined the Berlin police force. At the time, I had no exposure to art whatsoever. I loved the training and the job, because I enjoyed working with people back then, too.

My first encounter with creative work came in the nineties, when I wrote novels and short stories, as a kind of contest, with friends who worked as actors. This is also how I got started working as a consultant, training actors for their roles, while still continuing my police work. One of my friends was the antagonist in the police series “Die Wache”. Later, I completed a project on “Operational Training for the Berlin Riot Police”. Here, I was the idea generator, scriptwriter and director, and was responsible for the production and presentation of a 15-minute film about the results.

In the meantime, as a fully fledged police officer, I devoted several years to pursuing my conventional career with the police. In 2004, after a work-related accident (resulting in post-traumatic stress disorder), I found my way to photography, quite by chance. I fought against the trauma-related flashbacks by taking photos that formed new images in my head and helped me find my way back to my emotions. I had absolutely no idea about photographic techniques and wasn’t interested in them. I just wanted to take photos, and was on the „hunt for my inner self“. During this time, I only learned the techniques that I really needed. My pictures from this period always had a sombre aspect. My works included portraits, nudes, erotic studies, dance photography at the Friedrichstadt-Palast revue theatre in Berlin, and portraits of boxers. Sometimes, I think I’ve always been searching for human biographies, encounters and experiences through my work, to learn more about life.

Upcycling Fashion

In 2016, it occurred to me that with my people photography I’d dabbled in just about everything except fashion. I’m not a fan of talking about things that I’ve never delved into before. So the first thing I did was start researching, and I emersed myself in this via YouTube. I asked myself how I could combine fashion photography with my interest in people and their expression.

Because I want to be independent in my work, I decided to go against the traditional path of working with designers and stylists.  I wanted to develop my own interpretation of people and fashion in my photographic world and find my personal visual language.

By happy chance, I stumbled upon a documentary about “anti-fashion” and “grunge”. I’m also a big fan of the English “mod” subculture and its development through to today. There are many facets of the world of fashion that can be traced back to these influences. I could identify with a lot of this, since my own style of dress and my lifestyle are based on this subculture. And so, the idea of using this as a starting point began to grow.

As I browsed through Berlin’s second-hand shops and bought clothes; I learned everything I could about what interested me and about fashion. I used, and still do use, international magazines, YouTube documentaries, books and interviews. And then I started the photographic work. This is how the visual language and aesthetics that I still use today came into being.

At the same time, I was also working on my “My Japanese Faction” project. Here, I was able to process my fascination with Japanese aesthetics, my enthusiasm for Yoshi Yamamoto, Nobuyoshi Araki, Takeshi Kitano and the Japanese samurai period. My fascination is fuelled by the pervasive interaction between the exterior and the internal feelings in Japanese history and the present day.

All these experiences come together in my current upcycling project: “Fairy Tale Dreams”.

In 2010, I left the police force and focussed entirely on photography and art. 

As a self-taught artist, I was admitted to the Professional Association of Visual Artists Berlin (bbk) in 2019, and so recognised as a professional artist.

In the meantime, I find it artistically exciting and fulfilling to blend all aspects of photography, art and design.

My current project, “Fairy Tale Dreams”, is the canvas for this. Here, everything flows together. Photography, fashion, upcycling design, and painting for set design.

All of this is what led me to take part in the Haze Bazaar in March 2023.

Upcycling Fashion

From 1993 to 1996, you studied public law at the Berlin School of Economics and Law. Why didn’t you opt to study art? Do you have plans to do this in the future? Do you think that a photographer needs some kind of formal education?

My studies took place while I was still active in the police force and they served to advance my police career. I had no involvement with photography or art at the time. However, a lot of what I learned was, and continues to be, useful to me in my artistic development. Organisation, research and scientific work are all brought to bear in my development. I used these skills to work my way into every topic, and I came up with results on both a rational and emotional level. Actually, it was a self-organised course of study.

This has both advantages and disadvantages. The network and content that a traditional art course offers were missing. I work hard on this, however, in parallel to my actual work. On the other hand, my actual degree, and also my work as a teacher at the police academy, are an advantage when it comes to structured planning and communication with my project partners and the preparation of exhibitions.   

But doing a traditional course in art or photography was something that never occurred to me. My medium, photography, and the development of the internet made it possible for me to choose my own direction and to evolve. These days, I’m so deeply involved in my development that I won’t take a university degree course.

I think that training or a degree in photography can be important. It’s good if someone is interested in that and goes ahead with it. Photography and art are so extensive that you can learn many things that you won’t learn if you’re self-taught. On the other hand, teaching yourself allows you to determine everything yourself and to put all your energy into pursuing your own ideas and dreams.

But, whether you choose the classical or the autodidactic path, a good foundation of discipline is necessary to keep moving forward and learning. 

I think it’s great that today we have the option of choosing our own path.      

Your work depicts women. Why women? Do you think it’s easier to convey the beauty of a female image in photography than a male one?

I do photograph men, too, such as dancers, boxers, actors and other creative people. 

But my main focus in on working with women. For me, they symbolise the very origin of life. In many of my fashion works, you can see the female breast. This isn’t so much erotic as symbolic of this aspect of women’s lives as a beginning and as self-confidence, and it supports the overall expression of the works. Women are closer to their emotions and more courageous in interpreting and displaying them when working in front of the camera. Our work together is mostly a “dance”, in that there aren’t many set poses. In fashion photography, I apply the experience I gained in dance and boxing photography. For me, it’s a search for that “unexpected moment”.  We follow each other. And in doing so, we challenge each other in our respective roles. It’s a highly concentrated process. Quite often, I’m physically and mentally exhausted after a photo shoot. This way of working together so freely is what gives the photographs the special expression that reflects my idea of beauty, aesthetics and female self-confidence. I love this process.

With men, the projects are also very intensive, but working with women is closer to my heart and more fulfilling.

Upcycling Fashion

Your works have a certain style. How did this style take shape?

Because my first steps in photography were taken alone and without any rules, I was initially particularly fascinated by the Surrealists and Dadaists of the 1920s and their approach to images. The freedom of Dadaism and Surrealism gave me space to experiment and develop. The expression and effect of a work were more important to me than the classical photographic process. The camera is, and remains, simply a kind of pen or brush that I can use to capture whatever fascinates me. It was in 2007, when I worked on a project in the Friedrichstadt-Palast in Berlin with the ensemble, that the idea of the “unexpected moment” took hold of me for the first time. That fraction of a second, in which you capture the perfect position in a sequence of movement. Thanks to my “stage photography”, I learned to “feel” or anticipate the moment just before this perfect position and to take that shot. I continued to improve this skill in my later work in boxing.

A further aspect, here, is my continuous learning. During my many years of research and image analysis, I found my own style. One of my self-selected “professors” was the celebrated Diana Vreeland. She said: “The eye has to travel!” To paraphrase: as a photographer, you can be anything but don’t be boring!

All these various aspects allowed me to find my style. I’m curious about how it will continue to develop and excited to see where the next few years will take me.

What’s the most important aspect of photography for you?

The freedom to realise and portray my ideas. To give them a material form. In preparation and implementation as well as in the subsequent retouching. It always moves me forward and allows me to learn more in order to express my feelings. Here, I’m guided only by myself. I reject all forms of dogma and ideology. I celebrate self-fulfilment through the freedom of art.

And I love meeting and working with people.

You teach photography at the Community College Berlin Treptow Köpenick. What motivated you to start teaching?

Since I’ve dedicated myself to artistic photography and have never undertaken any commercial work, ensuring the financial viability of my projects is a major issue. Teaching allowed me to earn part of my budget. I knew from my past endeavours that teaching was something I enjoyed. So, as well as benefitting from the financial aspect, I found the teaching very stimulating and a distraction from everyday life.

These courses also give me an incentive to keep learning and to keep evaluating the courses. My students include both amateurs and professionals. In the lessons, their thoughts also provide me with new perspectives. It’s a give and take situation for all concerned.

All this motivates me, time and time again.

What do you think is the most important thing students can learn from your lessons?

The world of photography and art is so multifarious. I introduce them to my world of photography, my ideas and my imagination, to expand their vision. There’s no right or wrong. It’s all about their development. “Why do I take photographs?” “What subject really interests me?” “How can I follow my chosen path?” “How can I find and maintain enjoyment in it?”

I try to expand their outlook, to arouse their curiosity.

To link everything together and not to think one-sidedly in genres.

I’d like them to leave the course with a sense of great curiosity and freedom and to follow their own personal path.

As I’ve been teaching since 2018, I’ve received quite a bit of feedback over the years. My students love this approach. Some of them keep coming back to my courses because they can’t find anything with similar content and they want to keep learning.

Do your works have a message? What thoughts do you want them to evoke?

That’s a difficult question. Because my works are always a result of my current thoughts, feelings and inspirations. And the interpretation of the performer is usually a factor, too. 

I don’t think I aim to evoke any particular thoughts. It’s more a matter of emotional reactions and interpretation. Thoughts tend to take second place here.

Each of us has a different biography, world of experience, and interpretation. This is why I’d like viewers to feel an emotional connection to the work in the first instance. This could be positive or negative. The most important thing is the emotional reaction.

Here, too, I work from the premise of the freedom of the individual. I’m always delighted when viewers share their reactions with me and we can discuss them.

Tell us about your creative plans for the future? 

I want to continue developing my “Fairy Tale Project”. There’s still so much to discover there. At the moment, I’m working with Islamic women on a project about Islamic fashion and the “hijab”.

Every day, a new idea materialises, and I write it down in a small book. 

I’m also heavily involved in the current discussion about nudity in art and the public arena. For me, a tendency toward restriction is emerging, moving toward a “phase of apparent moral prudishness”.

I have a project in mind, which would involve exploring this and would bring together and interpret the aspects of nude photography, erotic photography and pornography on an artistic level. 

The working title is “Por-nu-graphy?!”, derived from the terms pornography and nude. But these works, too, will take a subtle rather than an “in your face” approach.

And then, I’m always busy interpreting my ideas on the English subculture of the sixties and seventies in photographic terms.

So, I still have quite a lot of plans and hope to be able to bring them all to fruition.

Rossella Damiani „Catharsis“



Photographer: Rossella Damiani @rosselladmn 
Styling and Creative Direction: Mrunmayee Kothawade @curlycreates_ 
Talents: Bea Sloss @bea.sloss, Ke Qing @killsyougently from @elitemodelworld
Makeup Artists: Sophia Pascale @sophia_pascale, Bea Sloss @bea.sloss
Hair Stylist: Kostruk @kostrukhair 
Styling Assistant: Shreya Gandhi @shreyagandhi731
Jewelry designer: Carolina Haraki @carolinaharaki

Designer: Clementine @baldoclementine Shoes: Clementine @baldoclementine

Designer: Clementine @baldoclementine Shoes: Clementine @baldoclementine; Designer: Clementine @baldoclementine Flower Accessories: Carolina Haraki @carolinaharaki

Designer: Clementine @baldoclementine Shoes: Clementine @baldoclementine; Designer: Clementine @baldoclementine Flower Accessories: Carolina Haraki @carolinaharaki

Knitted Jacket: Min-Ji @ohhelloderee Pleated Skirt: Stylist’s own Rings: Xiangzhi Zhao @xiangzhi_design Neckpiece: Stylist’s own

Designer: Clementine @baldoclementine Flower Accessories: Carolina Haraki @carolinaharaki

Knitted Jacket: Min-Ji @ohhelloderee Pleated Skirt: Stylist’s own Rings: Xiangzhi Zhao @xiangzhi_design Neckpiece: Stylist’s own

Interview with a petite model – Yvonne


Photo: Dominik Wolf

Text: Lyubov Melnickowa

Interview with a petite model - Yvonne
Please tell us a little about yourself. At what point did you decide that you wanted to become a model? How did your modeling career start?
Being a model for me means being creative. As I ́ve always been a person with a love for creativity, aesthetics, fashion and faces, living the model life has always attracted me. I started my career around two years ago with my first shooting which was a beauty shooting with an amazing photographer. I still love to work with her today and she had a really great impact on me and my career, because she always had useful tips and recommendations and really sees the uniqueness of each model she works with. Since then I have learned to get to know the industry better and was able to gain experiences and build a network step by step.
What does your normal day look like?
What I love about my life – no day looks like the other. I spend some days of my week at different sets and locations in different cities, some days I am at home doing sports, reading or planning the next trips or jobs and other days I am at my university or study for my different courses. I feel really thankful that I am able to live a life that is this colourful and diverse and that I am allowed to always meet inspiring people and visit amazing places, as well as having the privilege to study in Munich.

Photo: Mariia Ziva

Photo: Alessa

Photo: Ambra Alessi

You are studying medicine, at the same time shootings takes a lot of time and effort. How do you combine work of the model and study?
I think being organized and prioritizing what is important to you is key. I always try to keep my calendar updated and try to be as time efficient as possible. Of course it doesn’t always work out and I had some job I couldn’t do as a model, because of an important exam or course. Even though it sometimes is stressful, I wouldn’t want to change a thing, because for me both is important in order to keep the balance between creativity and science.
What can you tell us about the competition among models.
Modeling is a really competitive business. Of course everyone wants to book the job or get signed by their favourite agency. I learned to take nothing personal real quick. There’s also a lot of rejection and criticism, which is not always only constructive. But I always try to learn something from it and move on. Maybe you’ve heard some model coaches preach you shouldn’t make modeling your personality and I totally agree with that.
What difficulties have you encountered while working as a model? Was there a desire to quit everything?
For me it was and sometimes still is difficult to be booked, especially for fashion jobs or magazines as a petite model. The industry is changing and getting more diverse to some degree, nonetheless especially in the field of high fashion there are very specific requirements. But quitting was never an option for me! I love being a model and I think if you work hard, don’t let yourself get dragged down and believe in yourself and the universe, everything will work out for you the way it ́s supposed to be.

Photo: Yuliia

Photo: Rafi Glaser / Lilith Kampffmeyer

Photo: Mariia Ziva

You mentioned that you are a petite model. How tall are you? Have you faced refusals at castings due to height?

I am only 1,60m and growing up I always wanted to be taller. Nowadays I am used to it and if I ́d have the chance to change my height I honestly wouldn’t. Even though it is harder to prove yourself as a petite model, in my opinion, it is not impossible. I would love to see the industry change more and be more open and supportive towards petite models.

Are you taking any actions to show that petite models can also be successful?

I would love to be part of one of the next fashion weeks. I think Berlin Fashion Week is a bit more open to diversity than Milan or New York for example. There are a lot of designers who could really make a change. It would be a great honor for me to walk in one of the upcoming shows for example for Rebekka Ruetz. I watched her shows and she had a really diverse selection of models!

What does success in your modeling career mean to you?

Success to me means to be able to live by my principles and values. The most important value to me is happiness. Currently I am really thankful that I am able to work as a model and that it is fulfilling for me. Another principle of mine is that I want to always learn from and work with the best, so I have a list of inspiring photographers, designers, magazines etc. which of whom I would love to work with such as Philipp Plein or Natascha Lindemann. And of course – propbably every model dreams of that- being part of the Victoria ́s secret fashion show for sure! They didn ́t have any petite models yet, so why not start now?

Photo: Annsolie

Photo: Annsolie

Photo: Annsolie

What advice would you give to aspiring models?
To never give up! I think resilience and perseverance are two of the most important character traits you need as a model. If you give 110% everyday you cannot and will not fail. It will be a long and probably sometimes hard way, but it will always be worth it. Just stay true to yourself.

Isabel Spantzel „sirène“



Photography and Creative Direction: Isabel Spantzel @isabel_spantzel
Fashion Designer & Stylist: Lion Busch @lion_busch
Hair and Make-up: Aurelia Braga de Matos @aurelia_braga_de_matos
Model: Haein Yoon @shtlux
Agency: @vivamodelsberlin
All looks by fashion designer Lion Busch
Shoes and Accessoires: stylist ́s own

Interview with designer KERIMA ELFAZA


Text: Lyubov Melnickowa

Interview with designer KERIMA ELFAZA

Thank you for taking time for an den interview with us! Before asking questions about the brand, I would like to learn more about the designer and founder of the brand KERIMA ELFAZA.

Tell a little about yourself. How did your creative path begin and why did you decide to become a fashion designer?

From an early age on, I was not only fascinated by fashion. I have loved drawing, colours, shapes, patterns and materials since I can remember. I knew I was about to build my life around this. If you take a look at my designs you can see that I love to experiment with different colours. In my working process I reconsider, reorder, and redraw everything many times until I have a feeling of satisfaction of what I came up with.

My brand is not only exclusively a fashion brand. Often my designs are exhibited in art galleries or shown in performances. I love to think of myself as an independent designer who works in different media.

What does fashion mean in your understanding?

It‘s a way to express myself. It‘s about identity. Growing up in a german/arabic family was not easy for me. My creative side got pushed down my whole childhood and I am still struggling sometimes with the feeling of not being enough or being too much. My desire to work with fashion and art always kept me in between these worlds. Fashion should not only be aesthetically appealing and innovative. In my opinion it should also serve as a medium of communication to discuss current and relevant topics in society. Fashion is intertwined with culture, origins, history and zeitgeist.

Tell us a little about the brand. At what point did the idea of creating a brand come up?

There was no ‚exact‘ moment or point where it all started. I have been starting to exhibit and present my work in galleries, shows and competitions like the „European Fashion Award“ (FASH) already, during my studies at art school. In that time, I started presenting my work on social media, got an invite to a variety of events like fashion shoots, shows, performances, exhibitions and pop-up stores. I have been very grateful for these opportunities, but it has been a lot of work to be recognized with my brand.

I started using 3D scans, 3D printing and digital prints on my fabrics in my BA. I developed more digital printed jewellery and concepts for digital print on textile while working on exhibitions.

As a rule, a clothing brand is a large team that takes part in the creation of collections. How many people are in the brand team and what are the responsibilities of the chief designer?

You could say I am a 1-Person army creating my collections. I work on the designs, create prototypes, handcraft and digitalize, as well as producing the clothing. I have a huge passion for manipulating textile surfaces and since I moved to Bremen I also started casting my own jewellery.

Of course it takes a whole team to realize ideas and projects. I usually work with a video producer, digital artists, make up artists, dancers & performers. Participating in an exhibition also requires communicating with curators to finalize the vision of my brand.

How would you describe the brand’s style?

My idea is that collections should not appear just pleasing and wearable, rather sending the message to provoke. I have more of an artistic perspective on fashion. Whether I press „garbage“ onto jeans or let crystals grow on fabric, behind every artistic exploration in material, there is always a hidden social critical message. Personalized clothing as a specific and interdisciplinary art form and jewellery opens up the opportunity to celebrate everybody’s uniqueness.

Now many brands are for environmental friendliness and recycling. What materials does the KERIMA ELFAZA brand use? What principles do you adhere to when creating clothes?

I love digital printing, especially on silk, using foil and 3D prints. For the future I will no longer require digital prints produced in metered fabrics. I want to use screen printing and use bacteria that can grow the colours. Working with the Clo3D (a digital fashion programm) will increase sustainability by reducing the production of prototypes and it also allows an open discussion with customers online.

My 3D prints are made exclusively out of recycled polyamide. I am trying to develop more sustainable ways to produce 3D printed garments and accessories. Also I like the combination of the technology of 3D printing and traditional craftingship with aluminium and bronze.

Who is the KERIMA ELFAZA brand for? Can you describe its target audience?

It‘s not directly specifically designed for a certain stereotype or cliche that many big brands work with. My brand shows the diversity of people, no matter their size, age, ethnic background or gender identity. 

My latest collection, „SECOND_SCAN“ has a very personal reference for standing up for yourself, making your own change, no matter who you are or that you’re not fitting into any categories.

KERIMA ELFAZA  is a well-known brand in Bremen, Germany. Would you like the brand to exist on the world market in the future?

It‘s a big goal and a dream of mine to present my brand internationally. As an artist I am already present at several events, for example I will be participating at a fashion festival in the Netherlands this year. 

I am always researching new techniques to push my brand and level up.

How would you describe today’s fashion and what feelings does evoke in you? 

I see the same problems in fashion, as well as in the food industry. Who consumes should take responsibility. The consumer’s awareness is increasing, but at the same time the  textile waste is also piling up. The issues of the broader concept of diversity, gender equality, animal welfare and sustainability must continuously evolve. We are not at the end of our rope yet. Innovative ideas of young designers who are deeply concerned about the production chain of materials need to be further explored and developed. I am trying to deal with these issues in my work process.

My first collection „Is(s) mir Wurst“, like „eat sausage“ which means „I don‘t care“, and my second collection „Kopyright“ have been both clever, ironic, ambivalent puns to openly criticize mass consumption. The protection of intellectual property constitutes an imperative in the age of Instagram and TikTok, in order to be able to preserve artistic design in the fashion industry. „Kopyright“ combines an explicit cross reference to „fast fashion“, by challenging plagiarism of discount clothing stores. While „Is(s) mir Wurst“, denounces societies opulent and careless consumption of meat. As source of my inspiration served a native east german provincial butcher, whose meat products I literally scanned and subsequently printo onto the fabrics.




Photography & art direction: CHRISTINA KAPONGO @christinakapongo
Makeup & Hair: ESTRELLA ELORDUY @estrellaelorduy
Model: KADEEM  SAMUELl @de3m_
Model Agency: BENTŌ

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