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Paulina Gallardo „serious affairs“

By /FASHION/

SERIOUS AFFAIRS

Photography and Arts: Paulina Gallardo @paulinagallardo.photography
Agency: Caramba Mambo & Boyz @caramba_mambo_and_boyz
Stylism: Francesca Picardi @francescapicardi
Make up: Omerine @omerinemakeup Wuyu @wuyumakeup
Hair: Thomas Grodet @toco.hair
Models: Benjamin Noveau @b3nji.nav Milan Laffille @milanlaffille Arthur Nahamias @arthurnahmias
Hamadou Bleeke Yattassaye @pbg_bl2eke_purple Charlie Renaud @charlie.rnd
Location: Maison Albar Hotels Le Vendome @maisonalbarhotels_vendome

Boys wearing: -Walking in Paris, -Lionard, -Mansour Martin, Jewels: -In gold we trust, -Dior; Showrooms: -Berg, -2e Bureau; Shoes: – Phileo;

Denise Rosato „Faraway“

By /FASHION/

FARAWAY

Wardrobe Stylist: Agnese Tagliolini @in_es_design
Makeup Artist: VALERIA ANDREOZZI @valeriaandreozzimakeup
Agency: Euphoria Fashion Agency @euphoriafashionagency
Photographer: Denise Rosato @deniserosatoph
Model: Stefan Pancea @stefan_pancea

Black Trench – Zerobbarracento; White Shirt – Antica Camiceria Henryson; Black Pants- Levi’s; Shoes – Adidas Stan Smith; Jewels – MAM

Black Haneri Kimono- Zerobbarracento; White Shirt- Zara; Japan Pants – Janjanvanessche; Jewels- MAM

Silver K-Way – Calvin Klein Jeans; Silver Pants- Stacy Wear; Shoes – Adidas Stan Smith

Pockets Jacket Iridescent- Design by Daniele Sproviero; Black Pants- Levi’s; Shoes-Zara; Jewels- MAM;

Ripstop Cup – Pertex by And Wander; White Sweater – Alcott; Black Pants- Levi’s;

Pockets Jacket Iridescent- Design by Daniele Sproviero; Black Pants- Levi’s; Jewels- MAM;

Jessica Juliao „into the colors“

By /FASHION/

INTO THE COLORS

Photographer: Jessica Juliao @jessicajuliaophoto
Stylist: Sarah Attias @sarahattias_stylist
HMUA: Dawn Brocco @dawnbrocco
Talent: Robert Mason @rob_living_life
Production: Red C Productions @__rivers__
Special Thanks to Julie Stahl for location @Julsenyc

 belt  – vintage; shape wear  – stylists own

 belt  – vintage; shape wear  – stylists own

Yellow tulle dress – dur doux;

Flare harness – manahi

belt  – vintage; shape wear  – stylists own

Ekaterina Maltseva „Funhouse Mirrors“

By /FASHION/

FUNHOUSE MIRRORS

Model: Anastasia Skiteva @sndski
Agency: Solo Management @solo_management
Makeup Artist: Elena Pavlova @rockstar_mua
Photographer: Ekaterina Maltseva @rina_m_ph
Wardrobe Stylist: Valeria Tishkova @valeriatishk

Dress: Tali Rutman Studio, shoes: TopTop, tights: Calzedonia; 

Dress: H&M, corset: Victoria’s Secret; Dress: H&M, shoes: Pull&Bear, corset: Victoria’s Secret

Dress: Tali Rutman Studio, shoes: TopTop, tights: Calzedonia

Dress: Tali Rutman Studio, shoes: TopTop, tights: Calzedonia

Blouse: Strogo Vintage, gloves: Afel Studio; Blouse: Strogo Vintage, gloves: Afel Studio, Pants: Zara, shoes: Svalka.me

Dress: Tali Rutman Studio, tights: Calzedonia

Dress: Tali Rutman Studio, shoes: Zara, tights: Calzedonia

Anna Helm „contact“

By /FASHION/

CONTACT

Makeup Artist: Joe Onde @joe_onde_artist
3D Artist: Rakhim Helm @rakhim_helm
Wardrobe Stylist: Egilia Lofrano-Carrión @egilia_carrion_stylist
Fashion Designer: Aziz Rebar @aziz_rebar
Hair Stylist: Eileen Ege Friseure @eileenegefriseure
Model: Tommi @angelamoreeee
Photographer: Anna Helm @helm_anna

Wardrobe Credits: costume by Aziz Rebar exclusive for this shooting in Alicante, Spain

Diana Gabrielli „Jeanette“

By /FASHION/

JEANETTE

Photographer: Diana Gabrielli www.dianagabrielli.com @dianagabrielli
Art Director: Marta Muschietti @machete665
Stylist: Ekaterina Samorukova @ekaterina_samorukova_
MUA+hair: Haneen Ajub www.haneenajub.com @haneenajub
Model: Lou from IZAIO Management @lou.fides @izaio_modelmanagement @iamizaio #girlsofizaio
Artwork: Alessio Cannizzo www.alessiocannizzo.com @cronica_d_anonimo_romano
Atelier: AM Dusk Studios, Berlin @amduskstudios
Dress: Alberta Ferretti; Shoes: Miu Miu; Headpiece: Stylist’s own
Dress: IRO; Shoes: Karl Lagerfeld; Necklace: Stylist’s own
Dress: Alberta Ferretti; Tights: Falke; Shoes: Furla; Gloves: Stylist’s own; Earrings: Christ
Dress: Vivienne Westwood; Boots: MM6 Margiela; Headpiece: Stylist’s own
Dress: Paco Rabanne; Shoes: Giuseppe Zanotti
Dress: Alberta Ferretti; Shoes: Le Silla; Headpiece: Stylist’s own
Shirt: GF Ferrè; Belt: Stylist’s own; Skirt: Lanvin; Shoes: Krizia; Earrings: Stylist’s own

Backstage insights: interviews with MBFW Russia photographers.

By /FASHION/

Photo by RUSLAN KIRSANOV

Text
L y u b o v  M e l n i c k o w a

Backstage insights: interviews with MBFW Russia photographers.

On October 19-23, the Mercedes – Benz Fashion Week Russia fashion week of the SS 22 season was held in Moscow. PURPLEHAZE magazine used the opportunity and talked to MBFW Russia photographers. Models and guests of the shows usually want to get into their lens and who need to take the best place in front of the podium to capture every moment of the fashion show. We learned what fashion photography is in their eyes and what is its future?

RUSLAN KIRSANOV @ruslankirsanov

What led you to the photo? How did it all start? At what point did you realize that fashion photography is your genre?

Everything is banal.
At some point, I wanted to capture people and animals close to me, but there was no camera and no knowledge. From that moment, I began to give a lot of time to self-education.

I understood that photography is multifaceted, so I tried different genres. But I liked the cards more, which sold what they depicted.

So for myself, I defined the fashion genre, Fashion TV became my favorite channel, and of course I was interested in fashion weeks.

I began to visit them, in different cities, as a photographer. New acquaintances appeared there, so at one of them I met the head of the photo service, Ksenia Krutova, and got into the MBFW Russia team. The fashion world has captured me and will never let me go.

Photo by RUSLAN KIRSANOV

What is fashion photography in your understanding?

For me, fashion photography is a search for beauty in things that are not obvious to other people.

Photography is not about what you can do, it’s about what you feel.

If you remove the task of selling, then this is a way to communicate with the audience. A way to express your position, change opinions and, of course, reflect the state of society. It is inextricably linked with the events taking place in the world, in this period of time. It is a reflection of the social, political and environmental aspects of humanity. This may not be noticed at first glance, but fashion photography is imbued with the values of the time in which we live.

Describe your most memorable moment in your career as a fashion photographer?

I single out two personal projects for myself. Which we did in collaboration with the illustrator and our large team. These projects were exhibited at the Moscow Museum of Modern Art MMOMA and the State Tretyakov Gallery. When your work finds the recognition of the viewer, it gives new strength to move on.

Photo by RUSLAN KIRSANOV

Are there any photographers who inspire you? Whose work are you following?

Not anymore.
I’m looking for inspiration in other fields of art and I’m not limited to that.
In order not to merge with the mass of other representatives of the profession, you need to find your own style and path.
The author’s handwriting should be felt, and for this you need to listen to yourself and only yourself.
Do what works best.
Work at the call of the heart, erasing all the boring prohibitions and patterns.
Breaking the rules – you will find yourself.

Photo by RUSLAN KIRSANOV

What is the future of fashion photography?

Fashion, in any perception of this concept, is inseparable from the consciousness of humanity.
She is moving away more and more from the task of only selling goods.
Will continue to broadcast the zeitgeist.
Whatever metamorphoses take place in fashion photography and fashion itself, it will always influence people’s way of thinking.
To some extent manipulate our taste and dictate new values.
I am glad that she is moving away from rigid manipulation and becoming more stable (Sustainable) tolerant, diverse (Diversity) and this is good.

KSENIYA KRUTOVA @iamkrutova

What led you to the photo? How did it all start? At what point did you realize that fashion photography is your genre?

I started my career during 28th season of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, as an editor. Once just took my old camera, came to backstage, made a few b/w portraits and absolutely fall in love. So, that’s how it all started for me.

It wasn’t easy, and actually it isn’t easy now: every season is a challenge, you have to mobilize all your inner resources. Like always looking around, catching, thinking, analyzing what effect would be nice now, at the moment, and where you just have to slow down and try to find smt new.

What is fashion photography in your understanding?

Smt anti-constant. Everything’s changing all the time: trends, styles, the feeling of the world and the world itself are changing.
So photography follows the vibe.

Now I see the multi-exp comeback and old-school reportage.
Of course there is still b/w, but it’s an eternal classic)

Photo by KSENIYA KRUTOVA

Describe your most memorable moment in the career of a fashion photographer?

Every season is special. Each of them is marked by 2-3 shots, which I absolutely adore.
It was pretty cool when I did street-shooting for Hypebae or Vogue.ru at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. Or when Forbes took MBFW Russia backstage pics for a brand article. It was like “wow, someone noticed what i am doing.. cool!”

Are there any photographers who inspire you? Whose work are you following?

Pinkhasov, Bresson, my mum and Adnrey Berezkin) Love his reportages. 

And Bill Kaningem of coure. I love the idea of ​​an observer photographer that no one sees or hears, who always stays in shadows.
The invisible ghost camera-girl – is that’s my vibe)

Photo by KSENIYA KRUTOVA

What is the future of fashion photography?

Changes and love. Without love, photography is not worth it.
Nothing needs to be done without love.

ANDREY BEREZKIN @andrey_dronski

What led you to the photo? How did it all start? At what point did you realize that fashion photography is your genre?

In the years of my turbulent youth, I went to the annual Kazantip music event. There I started shooting, still on film. I shot a lot and everything in a row. After a couple of years, something started to work out. Thus began the path of a reportage photographer. I remember how I got to the first Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. My photographer friend calls me and asks me to go to the rental and bring him lenses) And then I find out that he’s shooting fashion week. I had a free day and I decide to help him. And he offers me to take pictures with him for company, if I have such a desire. Of course, I was glad to have such an opportunity to shoot such an event. I then had a little experience in commercial filming for about 2 years approximately. Of course, the first pictures came out so-so 😂 But a year or two later, and something was already working out, I began to understand what I wanted and how to remove it. That’s how my career as a fashion photographer began.

Photo by ANDREY BEREZKIN

What is fashion photography in your understanding?

In general, I shoot in the genre of fashion reportage. It is important for me to catch the moments in which clothes, details, style will be reflected. So that a person looking at the picture could feel the texture, mood. The transfer of the atmosphere of everything that is happening, the backstage and the podium, that’s what I want to see in the frame. I like to experiment, be it with space, light and geometry. I am often in the flow of what is happening, I make rash shots.

Describe your most memorable moment in the career of a fashion photographer?

I remember being in Bali. It means Ksyusha writes to me, then we were not familiar yet, and says that he works for MBFW Russia. That my pictures have been selected for printing to the input group. As many as two out of five. And she needs permission to print them. Of course I was a little surprised) what kind of pictures, what is going on at all. After all, I didn’t send anything to anyone, no one asked me. It was unexpected and pleasant.

Are there any photographers who inspire you? Whose work are you following?

I’m not following anyone in particular. They are mostly my photographer friends or acquaintances. The ones I follow on Instagram. Maybe it’s not very correct, but this way I can do something of my own without trying to copy much) In fact, I am inspired by everything around me: travel, cinema, nature, everything that surrounds me.

Photo by ANDREY BEREZKIN

What is the future of fashion photography?

Changes and love. Without love, photography is not worth it. Nothing needs to be done without love. Now, as it seems to me, there is a trend towards naturalness, everything is going to this. Naturalness, minimum retouching. The pictures are here and now. Shooting on the phone. The main thing here is creativity, and the essence of the process

KRISTINA REVVA @kristina.revva

What led you to the photo? How did it all start? At what point did you realize that fashion photography is your genre?

I’ve always dreamed to be a photographer, but in the beginning it seemed to me that only really cool and tough people can do that. One fine day i just decided“why not to try?”. Well I’m still trying 🙂

What is fashion photography in your understanding?

For me it’s much more then making pictures to sell clothes or some kind of art work. For me fashion photography it’s also a documenting since fashion is a reflection of humanity as it is at the moment in my view.

Photo by KRISTINA REVVA

Describe your most memorable moment in the career of a fashion photographer?

Oh well it’s pretty hard – there was a lot of this moments. I remember my first day at the backstage of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia. All models were so unique, and everyone was constantly in a hurry. I felt like i was in a movie.

Are there any photographers who inspire you? Whose work are you following?

I think I’ll say the same names that many people say 🙂 Ellen von Unwerth, Paolo Roversi, Peter Lindbergh, Deborah Turbeville, Sarah Moon. From modern ones i like works of Benjamin Vnuk, Colin Dodgson, Michal Pudelka

Photo by KRISTINA REVVA

What is the future of fashion photography?

It will evolve simultaneously with the fashion and development of humanity. I think that for some period we will continue the path towards simplification, eco-orientation and minimalism, but somewhere along the way there will be an explosion that will unfold everything that we used to consider fashionable in a very radical way.

Rustam Aliev „city flower“

By /FASHION/

CITY FLOWER

Art director/Stylist: Anastasiya Maliarevich @anasta_ma
Photo: Rustam Aliev @rustamaliev___
Model: Polina Gapeenko @_pgapeenko @nagornymodels
Makeup: Tatiana Vash @tania_vash
Hair: Anastasiya Mateychik @mateynastya
Fashion: Pink Punch @pink_punch___
Lera Pe @lera_pe_brand
Sabini Kishi @sabini_kishi

Dress: Lera Pe @lera_pe_brand

Dress: Pink Punch @pink_punch___

Dress: Sabini Kishi @sabini_kishi

Dress: Lera Pe @lera_pe_brand

Dress: Pink Punch @pink_punch___

Dress: Pink Punch @pink_punch___

Dmitry Shishulin „the beauty of present moment“

By /FASHION/

THE BEAUTY OF
PRESENT MOMENT

Creative director / Photographer Dmitry Shishulin @shishulin_dmitry
Stylist Alena Sudarikova @almost_____naked
Model Maria Zheltanova @maria_zheltanova
Model agency Vladimir Dvizov @dvizerman
Make up Nadya Tsarapki @nadya_tsarapki
Hairs Nadya Tsarapki @nadya_tsarapki
Assistant Diane Filatova @qf.di
Location manager Dmitry Shishulin @shishulin_dmitry
Photo backstage Diane Filatova @qf.di
Video backstage Diane Filatova @qf.di

Top – Zara @Zara Coat – Zara man @Zaraman Pants – Lichi @Lichi_brand

Top – Zara @Zara Coat – Zara man @Zaraman Pants – Lichi @Lichi_brand; Dress – handmade Shoes – Zara @Zara Sunglasses – Stradivarius @Stradivarius Fur collar- vintage

Dress – Zara @Zara Leggings – H&M @hm Faux fur coat – vintage Earrings – noname

Dress – Zara @Zara Leggings – H&M @hm Faux fur coat – vintage Earrings – noname; 

Dress – Zara @Zara Leggings – H&M @hm Faux fur coat – vintage Earrings – noname; 

„After Gucci’s heads in hands, nothing looks surprising.“ Interview with the designer of the brand N. Legenda.

By /FASHION/
Text

Lyubov Melnickowa

"After Gucci’s heads in hands, nothing looks surprising." Interview with the designer of the brand N. Legenda.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week will be held in Moscow from October 19-23. PURPLEHAZE magazine asked questions to the designer of the N. Legenda brand, who has been participating in MBFWRussia shows since autumn 2016. The main concept of the brand is a drama in the style of minimalism. Interested in psychology and anatomy, the designer of the N. LEGENDA brand creates a faceless cut for the personality, not being afraid to talk about gender.

Thank you for taking time for an interview with us! We are happy to welcome you to PURPLEHAZE magazine. Before asking questions about the brand, I would like to learn more about the designer and founder of the brand N. Legenda.
Tell me a little about yourself. How did your creative path begin and why did you decide to become a fashion designer?
I dreamed to be a fashion designer since was a child. I have graduated from the ST. Petersburg University of Technology and Design as an engineer-constructor of clothes in 2010. Then I did two years of Master’s degree studies and my Masters’s thesis was “An image as the synthesis of dress and body”. My education was not as artistic but more as technical. During studying, I was an assistant stylist and sewed single things for the photoshooting.
Then I worked in different fashion houses like a patternmaker (constructor of clothes) along with created own fashion brand on weekends and evenings, 24/7. It seems… that I had the first month holiday this July for all this time))) In 2013 I sent an application to Fashion Scout (the international platform of support young designers, based in London), taken a grand to participant and could debut at MERCEDES-BENZ KIEV FASHION DAYS with catwalk show. The next three years were continuously saturated with all kinds of competitions for designers in Russia.
In spring 2017 we presented a debut menswear collection “Beautiful Boys” during MERCEDES BENZ FASHION WEEK RUSSIA. Outfits with pink oversize jacket and with monochrome lines samurai jacket were noted a lot of Russian and international press. These two catwalks were the most important and turning events for the brand’s history

What does fashion mean in your understanding?

For me, the concept of fashion has grown into trends, fashion is like a virus, but design is an own opinion. I mean if you can’t defend your opinion, it will be difficult to create fashion brand and to stand up to the competition.

The N. Legenda brand was founded in 2012. How has the fashion world changed since that time?

Fashion in 2012 and fashion in 2021? These figures are very symbolic. I want to believe that fashion world is turned over. Earlier, connections solved a lot. But today in Russia emerging designers have a lot of opportunities, people and press are interested in “a new blood”. Seems that now it’s important such words like individuality, talent and conception. Now it is not shameful to wear the clothes of young designers.

Tell us a little about the brand. At what point did the idea of creating a brand come up?

Most likely the idea born while I was studying at the University. I remember that different people imposed their opinions and said a lot of commentaries how my clothes must be look and which color of fabrics I must use. Then for the first time I thought about what exactly I like. I decided to create an account in Facebook where I will post articles and photos with arts and creativity which I interested in. I gave the account nickname Nikolay Legenda. I find that this was the beginning of the history of my brand.

Few people know the real name of the brand designer. Why N. Legenda?

I did not set the task of hiding my person behind N.LEGENDA. I’ll be honest with you, I consider that name Olga Kapitonova doesn’t fit the clothes which produces brand N.LEGENDA. All my environment waited from Olga Kapitonova women dresses of pastel color. By the way, I’ll tell you a secret, I have another one name stuck in my head, and I want to make it to a reality.

As a rule, a clothing brand is a large team that takes part in the creation of collections. How many people are in the brand team and what are the responsibilities of the chief designer?

N. LEGENDA-a brand of a specific thematic segment. We make our collections in St-Petersburg (Russia) in our own small manufacture. We don’t pretend to produce large collections, we value individuality and the possibility of choice. I design and patter make collections by myself. Even a couple of garments in the collection happens that I sew by myself. Several tailors and a manager help me. If it necessary, we are attracting additional people.

Now many brands are for environmental friendliness and recycling. What materials does the N. Legenda brand use? Are you planning to create collections from recycled materials?

Environmental friendliness and recycling is a very serious problem but it has not yet been fully studied, like the situation with recycle paper cups and cotton shopper’s bags is as eco-friendly as it seems. It is necessary to really understand what is 100% recycled and what is not. To begin with we decided to work at slow fashion, produce limited edition of collections. I cut items myself and know which fabric consumption need, therefore, have scanty waste. Also, sometimes we recycle our items from previous collection or use up-cycle vintage fabric.

In the latest collections of N. Legenda, you can notice that the models who participate in the shows correspond to the main theme of the brand (without gender boundaries). Are there any non-professional models among them? How does the selection of models for displaying collections take place?

Each collection has own character. We work with modeling agency and I’m glad that they have many different types of models now. we also like to give opportunities to new faces. For them, participation in our show becomes their first show, and then it’s nice to see them on the world catwalks.

But I still think that I have a lovely type of guys with „sharp cheekbones that can be used to cut veins“.

The brand exists since 2012. Thanks to the cut and style of the brand, it suits any gender. The brand was created when the topic of gender was not as popular as it is now. What prompted you to create a brand without gender? In your opinion, has the brand become more popular due to the relevance of this topic?

When I created brand in 2012, the education taught that there were a lot of style which had clear differences. Also with gender. It was very annoying! I wanted to make clothes free of borders and that it could not be attributed to any style and gender. I

n 2012 I didn’t know that in 2021 it will be so harmonic. Female designer with men name of brand who make clothes without gender sounds so epic.

About question, has the brand become more popular due to the relevance of this topic? I think, no. Most our customers appreciate clothes by N.LEGENDA for brightness and individuality, because it adapts to different looks and styles. Maybe that’s why musicians like to use our outfits in music videos, shootings and at performances.

Who is the N. Legenda brand for? Can you describe its target audience?

During all time customers and influencers of brand are our like-minded people, creative personalities who value individuality, uniqueness and quality. Fans and customers of N.LEGENDA are the younger generation of artists, musicians, stylists and etc.

Target audience – bad guys who in deep of their soul prefer sweet ice-cream))))

N. Legenda is a well-known brand in Russia. Many Russian celebrities can be seen in N. Legenda clothes. Would you like the brand to exist on the world market in the future?

YES, I would. In dreams, to make collaborations with some international painters and illustrators.

The main concept of the brand is a drama in the style of minimalism. Can we say that N. Legenda a reflection of the inner world of the brand designer?

Most likely, Nikolay Legenda can be called my alter ego.

Why do you think there are so few Russian designers on the world catwalk?

We get a lot of offers to participate in pop-up stores and catwalk during fashion weeks from Europe and America. But we just don’t have enough finances to create international professional crew like own crew in Russia and organize fashion show with dignity. What reasons do other designers have?! I don’t know.

How would you describe today’s fashion and what feelings does it cause you?

It seems to me that now is the calm before the storm. After Gucci’s heads in hands, nothing looks surprising. I believe that something interesting is waiting for us in the near future. Today I’m seeing only how Asian idols, Italian music bands and American singers are attracted to promotional fashion campaign.

5 of your favorite designers.

John Galliano, Martin Margiela, Rick Owens, Cristobal Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten.

Instagram N. LEGENDA @nikolaylegenda