/FASHION/

designer of the brand „Studio 29“

Text: L y u b o v  M e l n i c k o w a

Thank you for taking time for an interview with us! We are happy to welcome you to PURPLE HAZE magazine. Before asking questions about the brand, I would like to learn more about the designer and founder of the brand Studio 29.

Tell a little about yourself. How did your creative path begin and why did you decide to become a fashion designer?

My name is Tanya Fomicheva, I am the founder and art director of the Russian clothing brand STUDIO 29. I was born in a village with a population of just over a thousand people and have always been a creative and active child. Of course, they didn’t know anything about fashion in the village, but my mother always found special high-quality things for my sister and me and took them in installments, because there wasn’t enough money.

designer of the brand „Studio 29“

In 2008, I moved to Yekaterinburg and entered the university. I was a student, so I was constantly saving, and at some point the idea came up to start buying clothes wholesale for myself with a 50% discount and selling to someone else. That’s how my entrepreneurial activity began: I rented a room, figured out logistics, rented a cash register and opened a multi-brand store that brought a good income. Now I understand that I myself created my first store from scratch at the age of 20 as a student.

What does fashion mean in your understanding?

Fashion for me is people, atmosphere, this is what unites and makes the world around me interesting, multifaceted and deep. Every day I meet new people from the fashion world and discover creative, talented people who love their work as much as I do. Together we don’t just create clothes, we create projects that change the world around us. Fashion in recent years raises a lot of social problems, we are increasingly thinking about environmental friendliness and reasonable consumption.

backstage of Moscow Fashion Week

Tell us a little about the brand. At what point did the idea of creating a brand come up?

After moving to Moscow, I got a job as a sales manager for a Russian clothing brand. After working there for six months, I decided to quit, because I had a burnout and I realized that I didn’t want to work for someone and could try to create clothes that I would wear myself. I became interested in how to produce clothes, calculated how much money I needed to open my own brand. I launched my brand for 50 thousand rubles and told about it on my social networks.

As a rule, a clothing brand is a large team that takes part in the creation of collections. How many people are in the brand team and what are the responsibilities of the chief designer?

I hold the position of art director in the brand. Two designers work under my supervision, with whom we develop collections. Also, a large team of the production department is working on the collections: a technologist, a designer, tailors, laboratory assistants, a cutter, a confectionist and a manager for placing orders at garment factories. In general, there are about 50 people in the team now. The team is growing rapidly as the brand develops and we need more and more specialists in the staff.

creating collections

creating collections

creating collections

How would you describe the brand’s style?

We create basic clothes with interesting details, they make our clothes recognizable. We work with color and trace our own stylistic techniques. In our clothes, girls can feel free, but at the same time express their individuality and character through details and combinations.

Now many brands are for environmental friendliness and recycling. What materials does the Studio 29 brand use? Are you planning to create collections from recycled materials?

The team and I also started thinking about environmental friendliness. At the moment, we are recycling the remnants of fabrics and paper in the office, we want to start sorting garbage, all the lighting in the office has been completely replaced with LED, which allows us to reduce the amount of energy consumed. As for the production of collections from recycled materials – it’s a little more complicated. We need to find reliable suppliers and high-quality materials. We are working in this direction.

collection show at Moscow Fashion Week

How would you describe the brand’s style?

We create basic clothes with interesting details, they make our clothes recognizable. We work with color and trace our own stylistic techniques. In our clothes, girls can feel free, but at the same time express their individuality and character through details and combinations.

Who is the Studio 29 brand for? Can you describe its target audience?

Our target audience is 25-35—year-old girls who follow trends. They value the quality of materials and a good cut. They have a bright, busy life, in which there is enough space for a career and for love, they devote time to themselves, their self-development.

brand collection

Studio 29 is a well-known brand in Russia. Would you like the brand to exist on the world market in the future?

Yes, this is my dream! Today we already have many customers abroad, they love our clothes, appreciate them for their good quality and cut. But of course I would like as many girls as possible to find out about us in the world. I am sure that the brand has a wonderful future ahead of it.

How would you describe today’s fashion and what feelings does evoke in you?

Fashion in its direct sense surprises me less and less. It seems to me that styling plays a really important role now. It’s really fascinating. Today it is important to find yourself, let go of all trends, imposed stereotypes and opinions and just listen to what really responds to you personally. This is the most important thing! Fashion today is a choice.

brand collection

Brand website studio-29.ru

designer of the brand IANIS CHAMALIDY

Text: L y u b o v  M e l n i c k o w a

Thank you for taking time for an interview with us! We are happy to welcome you to PURPLE HAZE magazine. Before asking questions about the brand, I would like to learn more about the designer and founder of the brand Ianis Chamalidy.

Tell a little about yourself. How did your creative path begin and why did you decide to become a fashion designer?

Good afternoon! My name is IANIS CHAMALIDY, I am the founder of the IANIS CHAMALIDY brand and today I am the artistic director of the development department. I think my profession was a vocation and I unknowingly started this path. I liked making clothes because my grandmother sewed clothes. All my childhood was spent surrounded by women who try on clothes and my grandmother sewed for them. I saw it from an early age, absorbed it. My mother took me to the Mariinsky Theater, all kinds of exhibitions, museums. My childhood was spent in St. Petersburg, filled with historical and cultural heritage, and of course all this probably gave me a wonderful environment, gave me the desire to create clothes and continue the traditions of my family.

designer of the brand IANIS CHAMALIDY

What does fashion mean in your understanding?

In my understanding, fashion is a phenomenon that unites culture, economy and spiritual feelings of a person, the values of the country in which you live, his cultural heritage. All these are like reactions, they are reflected in fashion, and fashion is a product through which it is easy for a person to broadcast his world around him and very quickly convey to people the state in which he and the society around him are. Fashion is also an opportunity for me to express myself, my inner world, to find my sense of freedom. I studied not as a designer but as a fashion designer at the Stieglitz Academy and for me this is an opportunity to build my own world with its values that will completely suit me, because the world in which I live does not suit me, it is full of imperfections, lack of freedom, this world is sometimes very conflicted, it hurts my heart and I build my world through fashion, in which people are absolutely happy, they live in peace, in harmony like true Greeks because I am Greek. The theme of harmony is very important, especially since St. Petersburg in which I live is the city of the heir of the ancient world because in St. Petersburg all architecture, it celebrates the ancient world with its democracy, with its sense of freedom and aesthetics, because the Greeks have always supported aesthetics as the highest point of personal freedom.

Tell us a little about the brand. At what point did the idea of creating a brand come up?

I divide the IANIS CHAMALIDY brand into two periods. The first period was classical when I learned the canons of classical beauty, so to say, with the ancient world, lines, proportions, etc. Architecture, the history of costume, the history of cultures, which were constantly changing in the world, on a global scale of world culture. At some point I thought that I wanted to create my own language and I turned to my Greek ancestors and realized that a European costume, like, say, a little black dress from Coco Chanel, in which there is a form, it calls you to take this form and live according to the laws of this form, the mood of this form and me I wanted to go beyond this understanding. I turned to my ancestors and realized that the Greeks did not have a uniform, they were peplos, chitons. It was a garment that gave freedom to its owner to express his image through his inner world, through the harmony of the inner world and the social vector because we are always in society, we have a profession and we have a social vector along which we move and this harmony between the inner and the outer gives birth to this image of a person. The Greeks draped their dresses, they called it metamorphosis, when the shape could change, there was a lot written about it in legends. I began to create transforming clothes. I came to the concept of multi when, on the one hand, the thing is classic, strict, clean, devoid of unnecessary elements, some unnecessary details, and on the other hand, it is an avant-garde aesthetics where there are emotions, where there is a completely different reading. I combined two different phenomena: classical and avant-garde in one product and got my own concept in which I have been moving for 25 years, so many years to the brand IANIS CHAMALIDY.

As a rule, a clothing brand is a large team that takes part in the creation of collections. How many people are in the brand team and what are the
responsibilities of the chief designer?

Today I am the art director of the brand IANIS CHAMALIDY. 5 designers work with me in different directions because today we produce clothes, bags, accessories, men’s and women’s collections, underwear collections and jewelry collections. The brand also participates in theater projects, cinema, television, and much more.

In addition to designers, designers work. Their responsibilities include designing clothes according to the designer’s terms of reference. It is also very important for me to combine all the concepts. I come up with a design, volumes, proportions and give out a very clear task, probably without giving any freedom to the designer because I am a person who understands the design and how this design will be transformed, what technological details, seams, the whole technology. I decide up to how thick the threads will be, whether the stitches are made, the length of the stitch. It’s very important, it’s a whole art. All the fittings, the design of the fittings, I make the decisions myself. I really like it, to keep the creation of my product under control.

How would you describe the brand’s style?

Restrained refined refined style, aesthetically filled. It is filled with aesthetics, it is very important, it is very sensual, very relevant. It is very important for me that fashion is relevant. Today I have researched a person’s life, his speed of life, and I understand how I should create clothes that will help a person feel comfortable, stylish, pronounced in society.

Now many brands are for environmental friendliness and recycling. What materials does the Ianis Chamalidy brand use? Are you planning to create collections from recycled materials?

We used posters that hung on the streets of Italy and we recycled these banners into clothes. We had a whole direction and now we are creating fabrics that use a small amount of water for washing, less chemicals. These fabrics are very quickly erased, easy to dry. We do not use electricity for ironing with an iron. We are working very seriously on this issue and this is a whole direction in the brand.

On June 21, the Forte collection was shown as part of the Moscow Fashion Week. Tell us more about this collection. What inspired you to create it?

At fashion Week we showed the Spring Summer 23 collection, I called this collection „The Dividend“, this is a reflection on a person who has turned from an individual into a dividend. This is the philosophy of Gilles Deleuze, a French philosopher who said that in the modern world a person will turn from an individual into a dividend. This is a new person, with a new understanding, a sense of life, who lives with a different speed of life than before. All the events that have happened, they have further strengthened us in understanding that in fact, a person who has gone through a pandemic, all the cataclysms and all these experiences, he turns from an individual into a dividend, because a person from a linear world where there is a floor and a ceiling, white and black, God and the devil, everything used to be it is very clear that I have moved into a linear virtual world, where the concept of human values is shifting. He ceases to live according to the norms and concepts that were in the past, and as if the research of this person, his speed of life, in general behavior, was created in the „Dividend“ collection. The collection reflected all these issues and reasonable use and global environmental things. When we brought the collection from St. Petersburg to Moscow, we did not steam it, it did not crumple. It is made of ecological materials, it is a synthetic that does not crumple, requires little water when washing, gets dirty less and is very tactile pleasant to the body. This topic of recycling, ecology and so on, we showed all this at fashion week.

Who is the Ianis Chamalidy brand for? Can you describe its target audience?

Today I dress a lot of artists, actors, people of creative professions, of course, and business people too, but most of my clients are business people who are in their own business, very creative people who go beyond the general concepts of style and beauty.

Ianis Chamalidy is a well-known brand in Russia. Would you like the brand to exist on the world market in the future?

Of course we want the brand to exist all over the world because customers wear IANIS CHAMALIDY clothes all over the world and the understanding of the brand is more global. It is like a reaction to cultural events, to a person, a global person, a person of the world, he travels, he has no borders, a person is absolutely free, a person of the world. For such free, creative, creative people, I create a collection, of course, this is a global client.

How would you describe today’s fashion and what feelings does evoke in you?

I see fashion today as very positive because fashion is always a tool for gaining freedom and fashion today offers a large number of solutions, ranging from absurd, ridiculous and useless, but as a manifestation of creative freedom, inner endless awakening of the personality, but the other side is very reasonable and caring about the future of a person. Fashion for me today shows the triumph of a person’s creativity and it inspires me very much.

ianischamalidy.com

Maison ESVE Backstage by shumovphoto

Text:
L y u b o v  M e l n i c k o w a

Thank you for taking time for an interview with us! We are happy to welcome you to PURPLE HAZE magazine. Before asking questions about the brand, I would like to learn more about the designer and founder of the brand Maison Esve.

Tell a little about yourself. How did your creative path begin and why did you decide to become a fashion designer?

Good afternoon. My first education had nothing to do with fashion, it was faculty of law. I studied law and danced in the team of the famous pop artist Jeanne Friske, where my conscious interest in fashion and design arose. At that moment I started creating costumes for working on stage and after completing my path in show business (25 years) I went to get an education in the specialty „design“ – at first it was a Textile University named after him.Kosygina, then I continued my studies at BHSAD (on the British course) is a branch of Hertfordshire University.

Maison ESVE Backstage by Olga Shirokova @redangel_vendetta

What does fashion mean in your understanding?

For me, fashion is creativity within the purchasing power of your client. If goods are very creative, but not sold, I call it art. People need to understand and wear fashion.

As a rule, a clothing brand is a large team that takes part in the creation of collections. How many people are in the brand team and what are the
responsibilities of the chief designer?

The idea of my brand was to combine talents and unlock the potential of each of the team members. Hence the first part of the brand name „Maison“ – which means „fashion house“. Our team consists of 7 very creative people, whom I, as the head of this fashion house, inspire to be creative and implement my ideas. I believe in every person who is with me, and I am grateful for their professionalism. I love experiments and mistakes, because I see in them a design path that cannot be drawn or thought out in advance.

Maison ESVE Backstage by @lizamedvedeva

Maison ESVE Backstage by @lizamedvedeva

Maison ESVE Backstage by @lizamedvedeva

How would you describe the brand’s style?

Maison ESVE is focused on creating intelligent collections with a large share of handmade. All designs start with a concept and are thought out to the smallest detail. It is always a style unlike anyone else and a clear recognition thanks to details – jewelry processing, hanging beads, connection of cut, layering, delicate fabrics, loose fit, tactility of selected materials, carabiner fasteners and ribbon ties. We always have a complex technology production of products, therefore, it is very difficult to repeat our design. Zippers and buttons are practically not found in collections. A lot of boudoir and negligee aesthetics. I love transparency. There is also a line of dresses-combinations that can always be purchased under an upper dress or worn by themselves.

Now many brands are for environmental friendliness and recycling. What materials does the Maison Esve brand use? Are you planning to create collections from recycled materials?

We are thinking about environmental friendliness, but we do not use recycled materials yet. We adhere to the principle of “reasonable consumption“ and „reasonable design“. What it means: we use fabrics from previous collections, changing the design and processing methods so as not to buy a lot of new fabrics with large leftovers from previous collections.
Also, knowing the width of the fabric and the footage, there is always a design miscalculation first, which product can be invented so that there are minimal attacks.
We use small pieces of fabric to make bags. Thus, we try to minimize the “garbage” after the creative process.

Maison ESVE Backstage by shumovphoto

On June 21, the Forte collection was shown as part of the Moscow Fashion Week. Tell us more about this collection. What inspired you to create it?

The new FORTE collection is a synthesis of the aesthetics of the ancient Maya civilization and recognizable features of the brand that have become the hallmark of Maison ESVE.
The standards of beauty among the tribal inhabitants were as extreme as possible. It is believed that Maya is a beauty that requires maximum sacrifice.
Therefore, the name of the collection ‘FORTE’, first of all, means – ‘in full force‘. The collection is very rich, but within the aesthetics of the brand.

And the girl in the new collection fascinates with the desire to know her inner world, creating an image of a bright and luxurious conqueror of a new civilization.

It was the mathematical foundations of the knowledge of the world of the inhabitants of the Yucatan Peninsula that inspired the creation of designs. Most of the products are built in a mock-up way with precise calculations of proportions, the number of layers, the level of the percentage of assembly, the geometry of the connection of the drawing.

Maison ESVE Backstage by @lizamedvedeva

Maison ESVE Backstage by @lizamedvedeva

Maison ESVE Backstage by @lizamedvedeva

A minimalistic cut resembling simple pieces of cloth with slits for the hands and head, as well as a traditional loincloth in the form of a palm-wide strip of fabric, which was wrapped around the body several times or placed in thick assemblies, are presented in the collection in many products and are made of thin delicate fabrics characteristic of the brand.

Long capes, ankle-length skirts and combination dresses, starting above the chest and leaving the shoulders open, abundantly decorated with fringe, embroidered with small lace patterns or beads. The sequins and hanging beads presented in the collection resemble discs made of shells and coins that tribal women attached to the edges of their clothes so that they tinkled melodiously when walking.
The layering in the brand’s collection corresponds to the status of the image.
Among the Maya, only noble people could afford to add a long ‘shirt’ and a second loincloth, similar to a full skirt, over the garment.

By color, the collection in the show is presented on the contrast of combinations denoting three periods of the existence of the Maya civilization.
There are a total of 33 outputs of 11 bows for each period.

Who is the Maison Esve brand for? Can you describe its target audience?

First of all, the heroine of ESVE is a self-confident intellectual. She knows how to present herself, she doesn’t hesitate in front of the camera, she knows how to impress. Her steps are soft and her breathing is light, she make a wish by blowing an eyelash off the tip of her finger, she intrigues and provokes a little and always likes to be the center of attention. She will always have a reason to show the brand’s products.
She is always very sophisticated, and revealing clothes emphasize not sexuality, but the fragility of her sensual nature.

Maison Esve is a well-known brand in Russia. Would you like the brand to exist on the world market in the future?

Of course, we strive for this. Let it in small steps, but with great dignity and pride for all that we do.

Maison ESVE Backstage by shumovphoto

How would you describe today’s fashion and what feelings does evoke in you?

Fashion is as contradictory as ever. There are always inspiring moments and upsetting ones. I’m glad to be a part of this madness)

Brand website maisonesve-shop.com