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Purplehazemagazine is calling for Photography & Art for PRINT 006

By /NEWS/
Purplehazemagazine is calling for Photography & Art for PRINT 006

‘Gender is not something that one is, it is something one does; it is a sequence of acts, a doing rather than a being.’ said Judith Butler, famous American philosopher and gender theorist. Do you agree? Likely, as an artist you got something to say about this. If so, don’t miss an open-call for the next print issue of Purplehaze titled ‘Genderless’. Works in different mediums such as illustration, sculpture, photography, and multimedia arts are accepted.

Deadline for submissions is July 01.

The #006 Genderless print issue of Purplehaze comes out in September.

Please submit to submissions@purplehazemag.com

Art Digest: March 08—14

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: March 08—14

It’s so gratifying that good things never come alone. Slowly but surely, spring is taking possession, and now we choose even lighter materials to put on, while the soul is singing together with the birds, which have come back from the south. The haute couture season is also in full swing. A few days ago the Paris Fashion Week FW 2021—2022 was finalized, and it was quite a spectacle. Counter-intuitively, however, we are not going to cover the vogue event now, stepping aside a bit in favor of art installations, skillfully illustrated books, and exclusive photographs. 

As usually, the creative fields are not clearly distinguished, but rather channelled here. One of the world’s most famous artists denudes his past as a fashion illustrator (find material evidence is attached); a talented designer gets back to his photographic background, while another couturier has never deviated from his enthusiasm for arts and successfully integrated it into his work. Enough with the puzzles, let’s take off with the Art Digest of the week! 

A R T 

A rare cookbook illustrated by Andy Warhol auctions off 

No doubt it’s the Campbell’s soup tins canvases that made Andy Warhol’s name recognizable in the art world. Today almost everyone has heard of or seen reproductions of Marilyn Monroe Diptych, Eight Elvises, and Green Coca Cola Bottles by the Pop Art King. However, not that many people know that young Andy started off as a commercial illustrator primarily sketching for fashion magazines. For that reason, the news of Warhol’s self-published book full of playful recipes going to auction might surprise most of his fans. Bonhams auction house bids the artist’s rare 1959 cookbook created together with the interior decorator Suzie Frankfurt. The book’s sound title Wild Raspberries is an allusion to Wild Strawberries, the quintessential Ingmar Bergman’s film (1957). 

‘The books perfectly capture the puckish nature of much of Warhol’s work’ 
(Book and Manuscript specialist at Bonhams New York, Darren Sutherland)

Jokingly following the lavish cookbooks fad of the 50s or rather parodying it, Warhol together with Frankfurt published 34 copies of the recipe book, having managed to sell around 20 of them (despite the original ambitions of the artist to make a million on the edition). 

Andy Warhol got to know Frankfurt in his beloved Serendipity ice cream shop, which at night would turn into an art gallery with some of Andy’s drawings on show. The co-authors make fun of the high cuisine of the time in the book, with seeming excitement, discussing such recipes as ‘Omlet Greta Garbo’ (‘always to be eaten alone in a candlelit room’), ‘Gefilte of Fighting Fish’ (‘immerse them in sea water and allow them to do battle until they completely bone each other’), and ‘Seared Roebuck’ (‘ <…> roebuck shot in ambush is infinitely better than roebuck killed after a chase’). Interesting enough, Andy’s mother, Julia Warhol also took part in the process doing the calligraphy. Wild Raspberries is auctioning off at Bonhams NY in March 2021 for an estimated $30,000-$50,000.

Bed of salt cherry petals in the installation by Motoi Yamamoto 

Just imagine: a huge field of white cherry petals in front of an exhibition hall. A well-prepared love confession or, maybe, a grief for the one who left? It turns out to be both. Japanese artist Motoi Yamamoto, who has been using salt in his works since he mourned the death of his beloved sister has created a large-scale installation called Sakura Shibefuru (falling cherry petals) for the Setouchi City Art Museum. The installation features about 100,000 cherry blossom salt petals, which the artist developed one by one, during the nine days of careful work. 

Cherry blossoms here don’t only stand for the beauty of the flower, but also touch upon such eternal topics as the continuous circle of life and death. Sakura Shibefuru is the second Yamamoto’s exhibition hosted by the Setouchi City Art Museum. The artist’s debut took place in 2013, when his Floating Garden (an extended 100m2 structure featuring interconnected white lines and a deep blue ground) was put on display. As for the current exhibition, it also includes two-dimensional works created by Motoi Yamamoto in 1995 in the very beginning of his salt-concept series. You still have time until May 05 to see Yamamoto’s solo show.

P H O T O G R A P H Y 

Solo exhibition by Hedi Slimane opens its doors in Shanghai 

If you watched Celine Homme Winter 2021 show, you might have spotted Hedi Slimane’s love for minimalist aesthetics. The creative director of Maison Celine, Slimane successfully combines his interest in photography and fashion. Having graduated from the École du Louvre in Paris with a degree in Art History, Hedi Slimane began his career in vogue as an assistant to fashion consultant Jean-Jacques Picart, but he wouldn’t give up photography, which, indeed, wasn’t for nothing. 

The fruits of Slimane’s steady work as well as his distinctive concise manner of shooting will be presented at his solo exhibition to open this month in Shanghai at the place called Almine Rech Gallery. Titled Sun of Sound, the exhibit will mark Slimane’s debut in China and become his first solo show over the past 7 years. The Sun of Sound exhibition comes as a homage to the music scene and all its stakeholders, carefully assembled by Slimane during his years of work in the field. In focus are such music stars as Amy Winehouse, Lou Reed, Keith Richards, Brian Wilson, and even Pete Doherty, an emerging British punk rock musician at the time. Besides, get ready to see an immersive sound installation, which introduces the viewer into Slimane’s process of exploration of music.

F A S H I O N 

Issey Miyake introduces a new menswear line 

Wizard of Japanese fashion and founder of the world-known brand, the 82-year-old Issey Miyake is the type of person one can write a book about. Having studied graphic design in his home Tokyo, Miyake went to Paris to be enrolled in the eminent Chambre syndicale de la couture, where, by the way, he made friends with Kenzo Takada (more on the heritage of the late couturier here). Before moving to free floating, Issey Miyake managed to work for such maitres as Guy Laroche, Hubert de Givenchy, and Geoffrey Beene. The designer’s passion for art (Miyake drew inspiration from Isamu Noguchi’s works and appreciated his contact with artists like Christo and Robert Rauschenberg) just boosted his career in fashion. Issey Miyake collections as well as his perfume limes encompass the structuredness of good architecture and the free-thinking abstract vision, which, eventually, have won him international renown and success. 

Issey Miyake Inc. is famous for the few lines hosted by the company, specializing on bags, fragrances, watches, and, surely, different lines of wear both for men and women. In summer 2020 the founder of the brand announced the closing of the Issey Miyake Men. However, it merely meant the concept was to be continued. The new line IM MEN by the Issey Miyake Design Studio has been created to suggest unconventional menswear options — functional, minimalist, nothing extra, just the way Mr. Miyake prefers it. Perfectly cut jackets and pants of some bright yet natural hues, comfortable trench coats, shirts, and shoes all are made of eco-friendly, recycled materials such as plant-based polyester. Over the weekend the line was presented in Issey Miyake’s Aoyama flagship in Tokyo. Looking forward to seeing IM MEN collections in international distribution.

On the cover: Young Andy Warhol and Suzie Frankfurt over a bite. Photo: Michael Ochs Archives / Getty Images

Art Digest: March 01—07

By /BLOG/, /FASHION/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: March 01—07

Top story this week (not only for the art world), spring has finally come! No matter if the weather delights us or not — the calendar doesn’t lie, besides, the sky is so high and blue and there is a special feeling in the air… Since we have skipped our regular column last week, we are catching up with the events we just can’t leave uncovered. Yes, I’m talking about Milan and London Fashion Weeks, which successfully ran in the latter half of February. Let’s move to Europe this time taking our eyes from the spectacular New York event (more of our impressions of the latest NYFW here). Welcome to the Art Digest of the week! 

M I L A N   F A S H I O N   W E E K 

Jimi Hendrix and Rudolf Nureyev: the rebellious creatives inspire Etro FW 2021 collection 

The latest collection by Maison Etro demonstrated at Milan Fashion Week Fall 2021 is, no doubt, a hymn to freedom… and love.

However general that might sound, it really is. British-German singer Arlissa Ruppert opens the show presentation with a wonderful song about the amorous affairs or rather the rules de l’amour, which one can sing karaoke to. Although including live sound in the fashion show is no longer novelty (Yuna singing ‘Dance like nobody’s watching’ for ADEAM immediately springs to mind), it still looks like a winning strategy. Each performer passes on their mood, energy, and vibes to the show. In the case with Etro FW 2021 collection it’s (let me quote the lyrics here) ‘Keep changing, keep swaying <the rules of, rules of love>’.

Swaying here means wearing something loose, even slouchy, like high-waisted, long-tailored pants, bombers, and knitted jumpers carelessly tucked in. Yet Etro is not a regular sport casual brand to make do with that. It’s essential to add a drop of the label’s signature move (of course, I mean Etro’s generic love for using pattern) and a leitmotif of the season, so here it gets interesting. The original founder of the brand, Gimmo Etro bought a large selection of Rudolf Nureyev’s personal wardrobe at auction in 1994. Today Gimmo’s daughter and Etro’s women’s wear director Veronica relates to Nureyev as the protagonist for the Fall Winter 2021 collection, also alluding to singer and guitarist Jimi Hendrix. Ballet inspired patchworks, pirouettes, and riffs are combined in the show with some noble intersias, fancy paisley, and predator prints. Etro’s sophisticated color palette, which stands out through its density and depth, is also there. Elegant, laid back, appealing, and ready-to-wear, we just can’t ask for more. One question left, still, why do male characters inspire Etro women’s fashion? Banal but true, free spirits and artistic minds have no gender (al least, for the heritage). ‘The rules of, rules of love. Sometimes people break ‘em’.

Pierpaolo Piccioli on behalf of Valentino goes radical but stays romantic this season 

I don’t know about you, but on hearing the name of Valentino, I think of two things: color red and romance. The former definitely does not apply to the latest collection by the brand: for Fall 2021 RTW Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino creative director opted for black and white color palette (which, by the way, looked anything but obvious) interspersing it with a couple of golden bursts. As for the latter of the associations, it’s still like that: the brand stays romantic in heart and in deed, while Valentino CD passionately clarifies the meaning of the term: ‘It’s the radical act of having the strength to be who you are; that’s what I mean by romanticism today. It’s a subjective, almost anarchic gesture, assertive of one’s own identity — exactly like punk.’

Right, punk! And a hint of the bespoke sensuality that is manifested in swingy cape coats, elegant stilettos, touching turtlenecks, and lace jabots. A-line skirts from the 60s, massive studs from the punk rock 70s — Valentino gladly recalls the history of fashion as well as its own origins. By the way, it’s the location of the fashion show that deserves no less attention. The presentation was staged in the historic Piccolo Teatro di Milano, which, you guessed it, is still closed for the public because of the pandemic. Yet the authorities considered the shooting of the Valentino Fall 2021 RTW show a sufficient reason to open up the doors of the theatre for a little while. Pierpaolo Piccioli calls it a sort of a punk act. Regarding the soundtrack (well, live songs seem to be gaining popularity among the couturiers), it’s ‘Nothing Compares 2 U’ originally performed by Sinead O’Connor that accompanied Valentino’s show this time. After all, what can compare to a true romantic, an idealistic and a brash one, who isn’t afraid of pursuing his/her craziest dreams?

L O N D O N   F A S H I O N   W E E K 

Stunning Harris Reed’s debut at de-gendered LFW

To begin with, London Fashion Week Fall 2021 goes gender-neutral. That means London Fashion Week Men’s has been incorporated into the event, thus, the couturiers get a free hand to experiment with unisex looks in their collections. Hm, the term ‘unisex’ might sound a bit obsolete here. On looking at Harris Reed’s debut collection, one makes absolutely sure how powerful and morphing genderless outfits can be. The 24-year-old Central Saint Martins graduate and the Harry Styles’ beloved designer, Reed breaks into the Fashion Week with six demi-couture looks featured on the same person. Harris Reed’s collection is all about the striking gowns handmade of the upcycle textiles by the designer himself. 

What the up-and-coming couturier has presented at the latest LFW is not only spectacular but also brilliant: the ironical and contemplative approach of Harris Reed leads him to discover new facets of gender-fluid clothing. First, Harris Reed Fall/Winter 2021 is more about quasi-couture: imbued with artistry and gentility, his looks feature an unusual blend of impeccable elegance and parody. It’s just like the works of contemporary art: performing a caricature of oneself and of the absurd world around, the only difference is that Reed’s garments are also (and necessarily) beautiful. Tuxedo jackets, satin skirts, mermaid hems, pleated tulle — why not bring that all together in one outfit dressing a wonderful person with a passion for expressing themselves/introducing themselves to the world? Add to this a mind-blowing ‘dark romance’ color palette… Let’s just hope binary prejudice is something Harris Reed has never been confronted with and won’t ever be.

P H O T O G R A P H Y 

Wild life as fine art: mesmerizing shots by the South African photographer 

Saturated with European fashion, let’s shift our focus to the region of South Africa, the homeland of wildlife photographer Chris Fallows. Introducing him this way, I’m just as serious. Fallows enjoyed his first safari at the age of two with his father, an amateur wildlife photographer, helping him to turn the son’s fledgling interest into a passion. Chris Fallows started off photographing great whites [sharks], having later switched ‘to other forms of wildlife, particularly predators and iconic species’. Each year the photographer together with his wife spend about 3 months in the wilds of Africa seizing the opportunity to be closer to nature, in the truest sense of the word. 

Since 2015 Chris Fallows has been focusing on elephants, openly expressing his devotion to them. ‘Over the years, I have come to truly love and appreciate them and have got to know an animal that is intelligent, caring, and obviously under huge pressure from humanity,’ the photographer shares. And it shows in his art: elephants in the images look powerful and touching at once, kind and infinitely beautiful. A sense of wisdom and peace comes to one contemplating the shots of large matriarchal herds or solo pachyderms. Among other things, Fallows is interested in spotting the iconic big male tuskers, the last few species left on the African continent, which he frequently devotes his safari trips to. 

On the cover: Harris Reed Fall/Winter 2021 collection. Courtesy of Harris Reed

Wind of change: NYFW transforms but remains

By /BLOG/, /FASHION/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Wind of change: NYFW transforms but remains

Part 2

NYFW: Close-ups 

Alright, having briefly looked through the major trends of the latest NYFW season, we’re moving on to the most interesting part. An overview of the collections, which have just hit the ring, IMHO. The performance of the designers we’re going to discuss below was fresh, unexpected, and really authentic, what else can be valued more now? 

Jason Wu

Jason Wu is a real wizard. Having started off as a Narciso Rodriguez intern, Wu made it to his own practice. The designer has been running his eponymous label since 2006, parallely serving as artistic director of Hugo Boss women’s wear for nearly five years. Meanwhile they went their separate ways with Hugo Boss, Jason Wu’s pet project has proved to be a successful endeavor. Wu is capable of creating garments of sophisticated design and high quality, without neglecting any of the components. His Fall/Winter 2021 collection is a perfect hymn to convenience and impeccable taste.

It feels like we’re watching a CCTV of a supermarket. In the middle of the floor there are crates of fresh fruits and veggies, a sign on the wooden box playfully suggests to share a coke with Jason Wu. Who’s coming? Oh, the fashion show has just begun. Wu’s models confidently navigate through the deli counter, featuring apparels of a discrete color palette interspersed with vibrant strokes. The shades of khaki, cold sand, black or blueberry form the basis, while banana yellow and pink icing are just thrown on top. Actually, the basic element can be intense as well, but here again we need a counter balance, something like a raspberry cape put over a rose sundress.

Patterns? Of course, there might be some, filling in the gaps rather than creating a new picture. Repetitive geometric patterns of an irregular shape grace Jason Wu FW 2021 lightweight-fabric blouses and dresses, resonated with some monolith jewelry: e.g. in the form of a padlock. Surely, the new collection by the brand suggests ready-to-wear solutions for those preferring either smart casual or business casual dress code: symmetrical cutting and explicit silhouettes are combined with some rather mischievous calls like tassels of fringe, swaying belts, and jumpers loosely tucked in the pants.

Follow Jason Wu: @jasonwu

ADEAM

It’s the fashion designer Hanako Maeda, a fragile-looking girl in her early thirties, who stands behind the New York-Tokyo brand ADEAM. Having graduated from Columbia University with a degree in Art History in hand, Maeda returned to her home Tokyo to join the family fashion house. In 2012 the designer decided to launch her own label ADEAM: the brand is soon turning a decade, meanwhile Hanako Maeda herself has done a great job ever since. In her clothes lines the designer fuses Western and Eastern aesthetics, paying special attention to the quality of garments: e.g. by using traditional Japanese techniques, structured tailoring etc. Easy to clean and highly wearable, ADEAM collections also stand out owing to their feminine silhouettes.

A smooth live song anticipating the ADEAM FW 2021 fashion show sets the right mood. ‘Right’ in the sense of romantic, at ease, not without the reason there is a recurring line in the lyrics: ‘Dance like nobody’s watching’. The color palette builds upon the shades of light blue, lace purple, pale rose; though there is room for some brighter colors like burgundy and deep blue, they hardly take precedence in the collection. ADEAM FW 2021 perfectly demonstrates all types of the shaped sleeves: leg o’mutton, bishop, lantern, bell, and Juliette sleeves have been put on the display. A short loose bomber jacket put over an elongated shirt smells of tenderness as well as the flared pants and pleated dresses. Ruffles on the cuffs and in the elbow area, off-the-shoulder sleeves, and head scarfs just add authenticity to the looks.

However, Hanako Maeda avoids making her collection look too definitive. The second part of the show ADEAM Ichi confounds us by the sudden alteration of the course: the sound gets more upbeat, both male and female models enter the catwalk. Overall, ADEAM Ichi goes unisex: most looks featured one can easily imagine on men as well as women. Jackets and oversized pullovers with extra sleeves and a transforming hood, lowered shoulder line, pocketed cargo pants, chain necklace or, otherwise, tab shirt collars — today she can look what she wants, gracefully switching from sport chic to highly feminine fashion.

Follow ADEAM: @adeam

Chelsea Grays

‘I am a political designer! I use fashion to address social issues around the world and create proactive, political fashion,’ Chelsea Grays proudly says in her statement. Working and living between Paris and the US, the aspiring Ohio-born designer actively takes part in fashion weeks as well as professional awards. Her participation in New York Fashion Week this time hasn’t been a debut (she had a successful student showcase at NYFW two years ago), but still a very outstanding performance. A whole story of struggle, despair, and hope placed into 7,5 minutes with a row of fantastic looks from the latest collection and a clear message: paying tribute to 2020. Funny that last autumn, when we did a Q&A with Chelsea on her designing practice during the pandemic, she might have been in the midst of preparation for NYFW… Alright, and now meet Chelsea Grays’ political expression, that is, her FW 2021 collection.

‘Sometimes I feel good in my chest, but I
I can never get that to my head,’ 

On hearing the first chords of the soulful lyrics by Reggae Helms, one starts immersing into the story. In front of the camera there are some men sitting, both persons of color and white skinned ones, all of them young, thirty something. Each of the models looks closely at the camera and walks away, one at a time. In the next episode we see them roaming the streets, aimlessly, desperately, one by one. Where are those young men going? Why don’t they work, spend time with their loved ones, do something they might make them feel needed and alive? Afterall, why can’t they just feel happy? 

‘I need what they give you at the dentist
I don’t wanna feel no more’.

Chelsea Grays admits for her collections she draws inspiration from the figure of artist Jean-Michel Basquiat and the way homeless people are dressed. The latter she sees not only as whimsical, but also inventive. Since Basquiat was a drifter from the art world, who brought street spirit and some particular elements of street culture to arts, everything seems to be overlapped. ‘Homage to 2020’ collection features a very special kind of street casual, which, contrary to common beliefs, is far from the worn-out RTW concepts like faux leather jackets, white T-shirts, and tight jeans. In Chelsea Grays’ version, it’s kilts with noodle turtlenecks, ripped jackets, and paint stained trousers like if one has just left an artist’s studio. The designer graces the vagrant looks with cosy wraps, cowls, mittens, and patches (the latter has already become her signature gesture). Chelsea Gray’s FW 2021 collection is nothing, but a good example of an outside-the-box thinking, which is in great demand today. In fashion, in politics, just everywhere.

Follow Chelsea Grays: @__chelsea.g

Lavie by Claude Kameni

Sunny greetings from Cameroon, or rather, from the Cameroon-born fashion designer Miss Claude Kameni. Having relocated to the US at the age of 8, Kameni came across a fashion class in high school, which jump-started her future career. The self-taught designer launched her label in 2012, calling it Lavie, which means ‘life’ in French. Well, for Claude fashion has truly been her life for a long time. Today Claude Kameni is 26 years old, she is an acknowledged master of African Print, and her LA-based brand keeps flourishing. Actress Tracey Ellis Ross and singer Janet Jackson have opted for Lavie by CK custom designs, while Kameni showcased her collection for the first time in the last season of NYFW, which ran last autumn.

When Claude Kameni virtually debuted with her RTW Spring/Summer 2021 show at NYFW in September, she told it was the ‘Coming to America’ movie that had inspired her to create the line. Alright, the ‘The Royal Empire Collection’ presented this time has turned out to be a sequel to the story. Now it’s even more exciting because the second part of the legendary comedy film is set for a digital release in the beginning of March. It’s also interesting that the A/W 2021 Collection by Lavie by CK was modeled by some notable African fashion influencers. Among them were Nyakim Gatwech aka Queen of the dark and Achieng Agutu aka Confidence Queen (the both models advocate freedom of prejudice and happy-to-be-yourself approach), and also Sir Chidi, a style, fitness, and travel guru. The influencers shared the roles of Queens, Queens Hands, and Male Servants in the video presentation.

Designer Claude Kameni calls her latest project a world where African print meets couture’. And one can’t say fairer than that. On the one hand, ‘The Royal Empire’ collection is a luxury line. Dress ensembles with mermaid tails, majestic gigot sleeves, and enticing cut-outs just take one’s breath away. Even a relatively simple patterned mini-sundress lets the viewer’s imagination run wild. On the other hand, one doesn’t have to dig deep to sense that the collection is laced with love for the local traditions. Sophisticated geometric ornaments on fabrics (for those not privy to the African cultural context, rather reminding of cubists’ paintings or Harlequin prints), gorgeous golden-colored wrist and neck decorations, one-shoulder wraps, and hand-crafted beaded tops look anything, but not habitual. That is not to mention the zealous color palette of the collection: juicy grass-green, hypnotic violet, and vigorous shades of orange and red have manifestly run the show. Well, Lavie by CK, ‘The Royal Empire’ showcase was extraordinary (and so hot that we’d like to cool down now a bit).

Follow Lavie by CK: @laviebyck

Onyrmrk

Founded by Mark Kim and Rwang Pam three years ago, the LA-based brand Onyrmrk (actually pronounced ‘On your mark’) represents collection-based men’s ready-to-wear or the entire philosophy of new masculinity. Perhaps, masculinity is not really the right word here, but you get the point… The designers behind Onyrmrk reflect on what it’s like being a man today, how things are shaped between humans and the environment, what influence city life has on our mind and appearance. And it must be said, they come to interesting conclusions, integrating their insights into the brand’s collections. Striving for sustainability and diversity, Onyrmrk certainly wants to make the world a better place, where everyone enjoys their role and path.

Titled ‘Kinship’, the new collection by Onyrmrk is a surprising combination of the two quite opposite natures: collectiveness and distinctiveness. Following the trend of the year, Onyrmrk rethinks the changes 2020 brought to us, emphasizing the value and power of the we-stay-together’ principle. It shows in the return to the streetwear style of the 90s as well as the discrete allusions to Eastern culture. Organic-textile, multilayered garments of the most natural hues get the audience relaxed and contemplative. By the way, the brand sets a successful example of making top and bottom clothing of the same shade like that of beige, which looks rather harmonious.

Loose coats and shirts, quarter-zip pullovers, balloon pants — in such an outfit one can equally well walk through the blossoming garden, practice yoga or take the subway to work. Headwear inspired by the Middle Eastern clothing highlight the ethical edge of the collection. However, ‘Kinship’ no way feels mainstream. For those fearing to lose their identity, there is a soothing argument: you just won’t. Onyrmrk helps men to express themselves through becoming a part of something bigger. Stacked models, rich plaid patterns, unexpected patches, all those features add authenticity to the looks, while cargo trousers and puffer jackets, by contrast, hold the concept of the line.

Follow Onyrmrk: @onyrmrk

Hence, in terms of fashion sensations 2021 has started out well enough… And there are still three seasons ahead with a number of events to anticipate and enjoy. Don’t forget to peep in your fashion calendar to keep them all in mind 🙂

Wind of change: NYFW transforms but remains

By /BLOG/, /FASHION/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Wind of change: NYFW transforms but remains

Preface

If you identify yourself as a fashion enthusiast and try staying on top of it, you might have mainly spent last week in front of your laptop screen, watching the digital manifestation of New York Fashion Week. Well, so did we. Having slowly started off on February 13 (all eyes were on Ulla Johnson’s boho collection that day), the event lasted until February 18, at least, its major part. Only a limited number of guests were allowed to physically attend the shows, while the rest had to make do with online broadcasts, which, by the way, didn’t seem to be a big concession.
June 18 – 21, 2020
Rhypark, Basel / Switzerland
www.rhy-art.com

In fact, not everyone demonstrated the full-fledged shows — besides,  there were a great number of teasers or rather brief presentations, but that said, which were worked out creatively. For instance, Imitation of Christ dedicated their video piece ‘to all the people who have lost a loved one this year’ (most notably, it was broadcasted on Saint Valentine’s Day), Private Policy and No Sesso ‘adapted’ their shows to an Instagram video format, putting a smile on the viewers’ faces, while Rodarte just called their friends and colleagues to recall the previous 15 years of fashion for almost 15 minutes. Meanwhile the ‘going digital’ format has recently been tested by many designers (just think of Milan and Mercedes-Benz Russia fashion weeks, which took place in autumn 2020), there were still some significant and rather unusual changes at the recent NYFW.

It goes without saying, the pandemic has hit hard: the non-basic services and goods were directly affected, and the fashion industry was no exception. Most likely for that reason some eminent couturiers were either absent this NYFW season or have transferred their presentations to different locations/rescheduled them. And it showed: on the one hand, we saw many regulars missing like Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, and Calvin Klein; on the other hand, it was offset by the new blood, who weren’t necessarily based in New York or, right, even in America. That was a good excuse to invite some foreign designers to take part in the show, among which were Concept Korea, INF, Asia Fashion Collection (uniting designers from South Korea, Taiwan, and Hong Kong), and Studio 189, the NY-Ghanaian label focusing on promoting African designers.

All those alterations gave birth to the idea of the American Collection’s Calendar, which would embrace schedule of shows by American designers, not only during the week from February 13—18, but also some upcoming ones like those by Christian Siriano and Oscar de la Renta (early March) and Jonathan Cohen (mid April). It’s important to note that US designers showcasing their collections in London, Paris, and other places will as well be included in the Calendar.

On the cover: Backstage shooting on Jason Wu fashion show. Photo: Hunter Abrams

 

Part 1

NYFW: Panoramic view

Singling out trends at fashion weeks has always been a tricky task: every designer has their own vision, thus, perceived similarities in the collections often turn out to vary in style and tone and have rather different meanings. Things are getting even more complicated at the latest New York Fashion Week, where the far-reaching Fall Winter 2021-2022 collections are mixed with more topically relevant Spring-Summer campaigns. A whirlwind combination of light clothing and warm outfits, sensible casual and extravagant glamour can take one aback but won’t leave indifferent, for sure.

This NY season couturiers have paid special attention to the shoulder area, shielding it with the most beautiful shapes of cover, such as puff, leg o’mutton, and Juliet sleeves. As for the body, there is a backward tendency to expose it — disclosed bellies, triangle cutouts and backless dresses couldn’t have remained unnoticed. By golly, the 2021 NYFW season may be described as a battle between chastity and provocation: meanwhile some designers hit sequins and disco shades hard, others opted for turtleneck mid length dresses and elongated basic shirts. No accounting for taste, more so if it’s the couturier’s one, yet here is what we get, trying to summarize the impressions of the season (for those loving to go into detail, some close-ups are coming in the next part).

Bohemian Summer

‘Summertime will be a love-in there’ 

Designers who decided to go for this trend might want to play on our lack of Vitamin D and light-hearted spirit in the end of winter. By the way, that doesn’t necessarily concern themselves. Los Angeles-based brand Maisie Wilen (with Kanye West’s protégé, fashion designer Maisie Schloss standing behind it) seems to be just radiating the Californian sun-kissed, laid-back mood, mixing it up with an ounce of psychedelics. Yes, skintight jumpsuits and leggings are back, so get ready to walk on water, just like the models in the Maisie Wilen latest fashion show did.

Another LA label Stan launched by the artist and surfer Tristan Detwiler suggests wearing hand-tailored jackets, homey cosy and a bit pretentious at once. Rebecca Minkoff opts for matching a face mask to your boho dress, along with multilayer jewelry, fringe, and exquisite sandals. If you come from a relatively cool European climate, where summer season sometimes feels like autumn, better listen to a model Parisian, brand Maison Kitsuné. Their SS 2021 collection demonstrates interseasonal urban items like transparent raincoats, Panama hats tied-up with neckerchiefs, and striped shirts. All in all, boho is primarily about light sweet shades, loose garments, and simple, rhythmical patterns, which the above mentioned couturiers gracefully prove. 

Hardcore Couture

‘Diamonds are a girl’s best friends’ 

While dealing with hard luxury, there is a high risk of overdoing, yet eminent masters of evening looks trust their taste and expertise too much to question that. Can’t get enough of glamour, polish, and languorous shades? Join the club of the privileged. Among the special members are such couturiers as Tadashi Shoji (Japan/LA) and Bibhu Mohapatra (India/NY) whose mindblowing evening gowns one just can’t help staring at. Both designers refer to Baroque in their latest collections, embellishing clothing with rich embroidery and lacework, using silk and satin and, yes, color black, with the difference that, Tadashi Shoji also alludes to Gothic (just look at his long gloves, jackboots, intricate floral elements, and sharp chokers).

Bronx and Banco hits even harder, demonstrating sequins-covered leg warmers, dresses with convertible straps (and all kinds of cutouts, by the way), and splendid flounces. As for their choice of color, probably, it’s the blackest collection presented this season at NYFW. If you aren’t ready for such a blackout slightly squared with shiny rhinestones, take a look at Badgley Mischka Fall 2021 collection. Noble shades of silver, gold, and deep blue, fur coats, and front bow corsets will make you feel a welcome guest at any luxurious event.

For those wanting to play hard, The Blonds have created a very nightlife-inspired line with items glittering like a mirror ball. Conversely, looking for something businesslike yet fancy? Then you might like the magenta power suit by Marcell von Berlin in three possible hues to choose from.

New Age Unisex 

‘If I were a boy, even just for a day’

Fashion for unisex doesn’t sound like hot news anymore: actually, androgynous looks came back in the aughts after the hypersexual decade of the 1990s was over. To dig a little deeper, there were a couple of turning points in history that shaped that phenomenon in vogue, like the first and the second waves of sexual revolution, in the 1920s and 1960s respectively. Feels like one can’t figure out anything fresh in the field, but it’s very viable, some of the NYFW participants claim and prove that in action.

Menswear designer Victor Li sticks with street casual classics like loose coats, denim suits, and bombers, making them sound more authentic. For instance, he bleaches the suit and puts ethic patterns on lapels and cuffs or graces the business jacket with marvelous prints like those depicting a ranch or a fragment of the letter writing. A considerable part of the outfits might be worn both by men and women, Victor Li’s presentation demonstrates.

Italian designer Federico Cina takes an even more radical stance showcasing his collection simultaneously on female and male models (the video screen is split in half). Danish couturier Christian Juul Nielson, who stands behind the brand Aknvas and also known as the Creative Director of Herve Leger couldn’t help to devote his latest Fall Winter 2021 collection to both sexes to show how perfect plaid coats, textured sweaters, and knitted sweatshirts look on any of the genders. Special focus on the color palette: blood red and ice blue are genderless colors, like any others, yet through them one can express their identity and spirit.

So Casual, So Business-like

‘Six inch heels, she walked in the club like nobody’s business’

One’s modus vivendi affects their style of dress, that’s inevitable. We, inhabitants of concrete jungles, less and less keep our working and private lives separate (eating out with colleagues, finishing some urgent work at the home office), ending up mixing casual and business elements in our looks. Well, taking advice from experts will make this task a way easier. New-York based brand Loring suggests wearing shirts over dresses and spicing up the world-old ‘black-n-white’ duo with various configurations of the two colors like those of a chessboard, diagonal stripes, and the color-blocking principle.

The Ukrainian label Theo proves the fashion for mid length women’s dresses of modest shades, which might be wrapped up with a pocketed transforming puffy jacket (who cares that it was designed for men) or a unisex winter coat with lapels and thin straps. The Japanese brand KoH T knows how to make a business suit look a bit more laidback without wasting its solidity. Perhaps all you have to do in this case is not tuck your shirt in so that your snow-white puffs could show through the black sleeves of the suit jacket.

Proenza Schouler shares their version of a perfect business casual look: a neat patch placed where the cutout of the dress/pants is, a bit of the exposed skin (not much, but enough), bat sleeves, fringe, sparse buttons, and, good heavens, sandals made of the monolith, flexible material à la bendy pencils. A string of rather unusual solutions, isn’t it? Still if you feel like you lack avant-garde, Chocheng Fall 2021 collection might be a match for you. Headgears reminding of the Japanese national kasa distinctly allude to respect for traditions and fascination with cultural heritage, while vibrant shades of purple, orange, and red grinning through the basic black gives out a creative type. Among the hooks are jewellery in the form of Chinese paper lanterns, moccasins with ties (it’s possible!) put over the pant legs, and pocket flaps, likely with no pockets inside. 

The Odder, The Better

‘We are all mad here’ 

Today the circus and asylum are not the only places, which might accept eccentricity — we are meant to be different every day, not to say every couple of hours. Meanwhile, a great deal of those socially encouraged roles is often mutually exclusive. A way out? Valiantly trying to meet all expectations or rather creating one’s own universe, expressing oneself through the appearance. A handful of brands participating at the NYFW took the risk of looking ridiculous while presenting their latest collections, yet at stake was the opp to hit the jackpot — stand out of the crowd, outrage and just fascinate!

The aspiring London brand Ka Wa Key makes no secret about their plans to transform the accepted view of masculinity. Stretched out knitted sweatshirts, troubadour trousers, stripes of different widths — never before has menswear looked so poignant and emphatical. Libertine doesn’t lag behind, highlighting such outfits from their FW 2021 collection as jacket suits heavily splashed with patchworks (be it a starry sky, a page of a newspaper or an assemblage by the anonymous author) and every possible model of hats: e.g. like those of a witch, a pirate captain, a Panama hat and sombreros.

Actually, the latest collection by Anna Sui could have been put in the Bohemian Summer category: inarticulate flower and ethnic patterns explicitly reveal the hippie aesthetics. However, that would be too easy: not for nothing, the brand introduces funny cow spots, mysterious stellar shapes, tweed jackets with thick-framed sunglasses and other psychedelic fads. You get it… But if not, look for our recent review of Anna Sui Fall Winter 2021 collection. By the way, one doesn’t have to dress like a freak from head to toe to add a bit of extravagance into the look. A dyed faux fur coat put over the baby-doll dress leads to a similar wah-effect, like in the presentation by Maison Atia.

To be continued very soon… 

On the cover: Backstage shooting on Gabriela Hearst fashion show. Photo: Hunter Abrams

„BODY – POSITIVITY“ at HAZE GALLERY

By /NEWS/
"BODY – POSITIVITY" at HAZEGALLERY

On February 27, HAZEGALLERY Berlin will host the opening of the BODY – POSITIVITY international exhibition, which will be held as part of the PURPLEHAZE MAGAZINE anniversary 005 issue launch.

The exposition will include works by contemporary artists from Europe, made in different media: graphics, installation, video and photography. The initiator of the exhibition project, which will become a platform for dialogue between authors from different art schools and cultural spaces, was the independent art community.

Curator Iren Russo
Assistant Sasha Grigg

The BODY – POSITIVITY exhibition reveals the topic of finding one’s own identity through the collected and reworked experience. Whether it’s the personal experience of the author or the experience of an entire generation. An attempt to find the constituent elements within and outside of oneself. Go beyond the limits of your understanding by changing the point of perception in order to find a different entrance to the existing reality. Put together separate pieces and find integrity. Collecting artifacts of the surrounding reality into objects and compositions, artists grope the way to their mosaic individuality and reflect on the problem of self-determination through interaction with real space in this multi-layered information-chaotic world.

The exhibition will feature works created in different genres, which tell about the search by modern man for the moment of harmony of the inner world and the endless chaos of events outside of it.

Opening | February  27, 2021 at 18:00.
Free admission |  16+
Exhibition Dates | February 27, 2021 – March 13, 2021
Working hours | by appointment
Contacts | haze.gallery

Art Digest: February 15—21

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: February 15—21

Whew, New York Fashion Week has just ended, taking place in the first part of the week. I mean, it was an exciting, at some point rather unexpected show, so now it’s time to process the impressions. While an extensive review of the event is about to come up, we can already discuss some of its striking moments: e.g. how Anna Sui designers referred to Jane Birkin’s character from the 1968 movie in the brand’s Fall Winter 2021 collection. However, the current episode is not only about the NYFW 2021, but also some other news from the battlefield of fashion, arts, and, suddenly, food packaging design! The latter topic is well-known to most of us beginning from childhood, thus, I just couldn’t pass by… So welcome aboard, we’re about to take off!

Big Mac ® packaging by Pearlfisher. Courtesy of Pearlfisher

‘Innate joy of the McDonald’s’ in a new packaging designed by Pearlfisher 

I’m sure everyone knows this feeling. You have a long drive in a car with your sweetheart or family members. Suddenly you see an inviting red sign with a yellow letter M on it on the back of the road… Hesitation fades away, McDonalds is always a good idea! When you drive up to a food pick up window, what would you choose? Most probably, a Big Mac®? Well, since you’re a fish lover, you might take a Fillet-O-Fish®, and cheese enthusiasts will opt for the Cheeseburger®. Regardless of the country, most of us are used to roughly the same design of the packaging of our favorite McDonalds snacks. Yet from now on, things are getting different. 

Fast food chain McDonalds has briefed the branding agency Pearlfisher to create a new design for its food packaging. The main goal for the designers was to reflect McDonald’s‘ ‘playful point-of-view’ and its ‘innate joy’, Hamish Campbell, executive creative director at Pearlfisher shares. Graphics unveiled by the branding agency feature simple, recognizable, and facetious packaging items, each of them speaking for itself: e.g. the white wrapper of the EggMcMuffin® has a yellow ‘yolk’ on it, while the Quarter Pounder® box is covered with the stripes of ‘grilled cheese’ and ‘beef’. However, it’s the conical red packaging of the McDonalds French Fries® that undergoes no changes (perhaps they couldn’t think of anything better yet). To sum things up, the new McDonalds packaging design by Pearlfisher bribes with its witty simplicity, but shall it fully replace the existing and already fancied one? Well, time will show. 

New packaging design for McDonalds by Pearlfisher. Courtesy of Pearlfisher

In a Barbie world: designer Richard Quinn takes a doll to showcase his new collection 

Aged 31, London-based fashion designer Richard Quinn has already gained favor of such famous fashionistas as Queen Elisabeth II and singer Lady Gaga. Actually, why wouldn’t he? Apart from having incorporated technical-design smarts into his outfits, along with his signature wallpaper prints, Quinn also cares about the message: for instance, in his latest collections the designer has touched upon the topic of Brexit chaos, sharing his bold and positive ‘I-want-it-to-be-London-centric’ outlook. This time, however, Richard Quinn demonstrates a kind of a more laid-back attitude, testing a look from his Fall 2021 collection… on a Barbie doll! The collection is human-sized, by the way. 

‘If we were able to show this season, Barbie would be our woman of choice to open the show,’ Mr. Quinn explains in a statement. Okay, the point taken: since couturiers can’t come up with physical fashion shows yet, why not think about extraordinary ways of presenting new collections? A generously embellished gown based on a crinoline the Barbie mannequin wears was hand-crafted by Quinn’s atelier, #nooutsourcing. All in all, it took the tailors 10 days to complete the marvelous look. By the way, Richard Quinn x Barbie collaboration is a part of London Fashion Week unfolding these days. Check her official Instagram account, @barbiestyle to explore some other baby-doll looks. 

Richard Quinn Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear collection. Photo_ Carlo Scarpato

A gown from Richard Quinn Fall 2021 collection, showcased on a Barbie doll. Courtesy of Richard Quinn_

Richard Quinn Fall 2020 Ready-To-Wear collection. Photo_ Carlo Scarpato

A bit of Jane Birkin in Anna Sui Fall Winter 2021 collection 

You remember that? Psychedelic looks in Anna Sui Fall Winter 2021 presentation broadcasted at the latest New York Fashion Week. Just in case you’ve missed it, there is a video below. But let me finish my thought. Couturier Anna Sui like no one knows that the devil is in the details, this rule perfectly works for the field of fashion, even if the collection items seem to be speaking for themselves.

That’s what we see in her Fall Winter 2021 campaign: titled ‘Phantasmadelic’, the collection features such boho outfits as faux-fur leopard coats, rhythmically-patterned tees and shirts, easy dresses embellished with ruching and sequins. The looks are topped with tender yet artistic makeup, inspired by the 1968 film ‘Wonderwall’. Performed by the incredible Jane Birkin, the main character, quite a typical swinging 60s fashion model is in the focus of her neighbor’s attention, who is a conventional scientist and has a nose for extraordinary, ‘beyond-one’s-self-control’ effects and their carriers. Yes, exactly, the movie is about the vibrant and psychedelic world of the artistic bohemia at that time, so you can imagine it’s rich visual aesthetics. Interesting enough, Jane Birkin’s character is called Penny Lane, just like the famous song by the Beatles, and what’s more, music for ‘Wonderwall’ was produced by George Harrison, the quartet’s lead guitarist. The carrying away sound, Jane’s chic cut-crease eye makeup and her dreamy outfits, that’s what makes the work a perfect source for inspiration. But you know, seeing is believing, so after getting enough of Anna Sui Fall Winter 2021 presentation, you might want to check out the film.

‘Neon Structure’ by Lucio Fontana to grace Guggenheim Bilbao’s atrium 

I bet the first work by Lucio Fontana that may come to your mind will be something from his Concetto Spaziale series or paintings with slots. It’s no wonder, while Fontana is widely known as the founder of Spatialism, an art movement, which proclaims synthesizing different mediums like color, sound, and space into a new type of an artistic expression. Concetto Spaziale is a really important part of the painter’s oeuvre, but not the only one. That’s what Guggenheim Bilbao might have thought about while arranging Fontana’s installation in the museum’s atrium, which, for its part, will be embellished by the artwork during the next three years. 

The light installation ‘Neon Structure’ by Lucio Fontana dates back to 1951, the year when the Ninth Milan Triennial themed Goods — Standards’ took place. Creating his work for the Triennial, the famous artist partially referred to the idea of light drawings introduced by his equally famous colleague Pablo Picasso a few years earlier, yet Fontana believed in the authenticity of his pet project. Meanwhile critics of the mid 20th century couldn’t fully appreciate the artist’s multifunctional concept, Lucio Fontana annoyingly noted in his statement: ‘[It] is not a lasso, an arabesque, nor a piece of spaghetti… it is the beginning of a new expression’. From now on, a wonderful piece of the luminous spaghetti (sorry, Lucio) will grace the atrium of Guggenheim Bilbao, just like it was at the Ninth Milan Triennial, at the Palazzo dell’Arte 70 years ago. 

Artist Pablo Picasso with his work ‘Light Drawing’ (1949). Photo_ Getty Images

Artist Lucio Fontana working upon his Spatial Concept painting. Photo_ Getty Images

‘Neon Structure’ by Lucio Fontana at the Palazzo del Arte, Milan (1951). Courtesy_ Photo Archive Fondazione La Triennale de Milano

On the cover: Jane Birkin in ‘Wonderwall’, 1968. Photo: Pinterest

Art Digest: February 08—14

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: February 08—14

It’s beautiful that this week has been topped by St. Valentine’s day. However, what’s even more exciting, the long-awaited New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2021 (digital — out of options so far) has just taken off these days. Get ready to discover PH extensive review of the collections very soon, meanwhile we can vanish into the foretaste together with Pantone Colour Institute, which knows something about the upcoming event… Actually, NYFW might come as a fresh breath for all us mainly tracking European fashion, and that’s what makes it important. Yet we’re still into Italian-French sort of things, hearing the news about the local brands and designers with gusto. So, it’s time we load up with some knowledge of trends, big names from the world of vogue, and just our own expectations to break into the most fashionable days of the season!

F A S H I O N 

Mischievous Leprechaun and fervent Fuchsia: Pantone forecasts the NYFW color palette 

Pantone Color Institute keeps on tirelessly setting the world color trends, all the more now, in the precarious times of the pandemic. Most of us were somewhat surprised to find out the new shade of red inspired by periods last autumn, yet the Institute seems to be capable of far more courageous and independent statements. Pantone has defined the color palette for the upcoming New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2021, and the salient point here is: all shades chosen should be fused together in any combination, though, no doubt, they can stand on their own at the will of the owner.

‘We can’t say that people have more time to get creative, because if you’re working at home, time is still an issue. Nevertheless, you try to get creative because of the boredom, and the sameness that’s around you. That can be reflected in the clothing that you’re wearing,’ explains Leatrice Eiseman, Pantone Color Institute executive director.

The choice of the NYFW colors has been driven by the pesky pandemic ‘sit-at-home-get-on-Zoom’ lifestyle, or rather exhaustion from that. The Institute experts call on awakening our imagination and succumbing to experiments, the bolder, the better. By the way, the latter can be said of the shades, each of them bursting with joie de vivre and vigour. Mykonos Blue, ‘very crisp and refreshing’, kind of washes us over with pure ocean waves, while the eye-opening Illuminating yellow (which, by the way, has been appointed Pantone’s 2021 Color of the Year, together with Ultimate Gray) powers with boundless optimism. The pulsing Fuchsia Fedora sounds like an invitation to the Rio Carnival and Leprechaun makes one think either of the juicy green Amazonian rainforests or Irish folklore. Pale Rosette is also in the play: a ‘baby blanket color’, it will be there to wrap you up, when the world around whirls and howls impossibly. Among the colors in the palette there are also Adobe, Rhodonite, Spring Lake, Coconut Cream, Soybean and etc. Don’t put off to discover them all! 

The 24-year-old Charles de Vilmorin to become Rochas creative director 

Becoming a brand’s creative director at 24? A recent graduate of La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Charles de Vilmorin proves it’s possible. It’s Rochas, the Paris-based haute couture maison founded in the far 1925, that decided to offer the 24-year-old de Vilmorin a top position in the company. The aspiring designer expressed himself in a loud voice while presenting his Couture SS 2021 collection in January and, thus, won the favor of the High Fashion Maitre, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac himself. Yet Charles de Vilmorin doesn’t even think of abandoning his own label — the designer plans to keep developing his pet project parallel to assuming his duties at Rochas

Actually, it’s not that simple — I mean, regarding de Vilmorin’s appointment. The fashion designer’s great-aunt Louise de Vilmorin was a heiress and a friend of Hélène Rochas, the wife of the founder of the maison, Marcel Rochas. So, it would be correct to say that Charles’ provenance played a big role in the case as well as his introduction to the brand’s aesthetics. ‘Rochas represents for me a real charm, <…> a symbol of purity and elegance, of freshness. Rochas DNA’s and my own will be able to combine to continue writing this beautiful Rochas story,’ Charles de Vilmorin excitedly shares. Well, a brand like Rochas, (which, in the PH humble opinion is capable of embodying the spirit of a most unfathomable archetype like that of Magician) deserves having such a passionate, bright lead as de Vilmorin. Good luck and endless inspiration to him! 

Saga of the knights: meet Celine Homme Winter 2021 show 

Still on the subject of young up-and-comers in the fashion industry, let’s glance at Hedi Slimane, Celine’s creative and image director. Slimane has covered the position since 2018, having previously worked for Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent. Yet it’s not the age of the Celine current CD (Hedi Slimane is 52, by the way, which doesn’t sound that tender), but rather his photographic background that makes his case so interesting. For more than two years now Slimane has been coming up with unusual ideas for the Maison, and here’s what he has concocted for the Homme Winter 2021 collection.  

Instead of the real fashion show, a short film ‘Teen Knight Poem’ has been produced for the new men’s collection. The title just perfectly conveys the plot and the spirit of the narrative: young boys with shaggy hair and waving flags in their hands ride horses to an ivory castle. No, they don’t want to set Goldilocks free, but rather intend to stroll across the castle turrets on the soundtrack ‚Time Slip‘ performed by The Loom. ‘Teen Knight Poem’ sings a sort of gothic, bellicose romance, which might be described as puritanic as well. Rebellious leather jackets, rough metals, and sequins frayed pants are counterbalanced by starched collars, loose knitted jumpers, and plaid shirts put under the flapping capes. It seems like Hedi Slimane drew inspiration from the new generation of fashion lovers, unshackled and focused at once. What’s also good, the looks from the ‘Teen Knight Poem’ Homme FW 2021 collection are perfectly wearable in day-to-day life. It’s up to you whether to chase windmills or tackle more serious issues in such an outfit — it’s attention grabbing anyway. 

All shades of pink: That’s how SS 2021 collections smell like

Journalists from the world’s no.1 fashion bulletin Vogue have recently come up with some forecasts on 2021 color trends. Vogue experts have examined the Spring/Summer collections by the leading fashion brands and… it’s the color pink that will be running the show during the next 6 months, they say. Should they have viewed the catwalk through the rose-tinted glasses, no one knows, but the outlook sounds rather sweet and soothing — so much haunted by the reality we might feel today. So the phantasy world is waiting for all fashionistas to slide therein right now. 

Yet the couturiers choose different ways of falling into a dreamiest shade in the upcoming season. For example, Bottega Veneta seeks no compromise while creating a total pink look with a short-sleeved sweatshirt, pants, sandals, sunglasses, and other accessories, all pale mauve. Brands like Alexander McQueen, Prada, and Proenza Schouler confine themselves just to adding color rose to the principal item of the outfit, be it a pantsuit or a tutu dress. Feel like an escapist? Then opt for Dolce Gabbana baby pink-colored gowns. If you rather prefer passion and energy, pay close attention to SS 2021 collections by the likes of Valentino, Stella McCartney, and Balmain with their versions of fluorescent pink

S O C I A L   A C T I V I S M 

FKA Twigs collaborates with Getty Images to support Black history narrative 

In case you are not exactly sure, FKA Twigs is an English singer and actress. Born Tahliah Debrett Barnett, she started her performing career at the age of 17, dancing at the backup in music videos by some celebrities. Her pseudonym was born as someone called her Twigs for the way her joints cracked. However, since there already was a collective called The Twigs, the singer decided to add the FKA (first known as) abbreviation to her name, that’s how it was stuck.

If you want to discover FKA Twigs’ talent, check her LP1, Melissa, and Magdalena albums or what’s fresh. Back on point, the artist has recently engaged into social collaboration, aiming at supporting black people and paying tribute to their history. Her partner in crime this time is visual media company Getty Images, and as you may guess the collaboration focuses on visual content, in particular, disclosing it. The company will donate images related to Black history from the world’s largest archive for non-commercial use, thus, encouraging educational, research, and mentoring initiatives on the topic. ‘We were discussing how powerful it would be to make this content available to Black creators and educators – enabling us to put these pieces together and make our history accessible for generations to come,’ FKA Twigs told the press. The collaboration will be launched this year, further details of the project might be released in the next few months. 

On the cover: Celine Hommes‘ Fall/Winter 2021 collection. Courtesy of Celine

Art Digest: February 01—07

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: February 01—07

Turning the page of the calendar I surprisingly found out February 2021 starts on Monday. So, new week, new month. That may also mean that the last day of February coincides with Sunday, February 28th, which is, by the way, the birthday of Frank Gehry, famous Canadian-American architect. Actually, the second month of the year is lavish in prominent city planners’ birthdays, take Ernest Flagg, Walter Netsch, Gyo Obata, and Katharine Stinson. We’re not going to pay tribute to their oeuvres right now (maybe next time) but will rather devote this week Art Digest to the news of architecture and product design. Here we go!

D E S I G N 

Shifty eyes, plump face: meet new AZ Factory logo by Micha Weidmann Studio 

Fashion designer Alber Elbaz has recently become PH hero of the day: we mentioned Elbaz twice to mark the launch of his own brand AZ Factory at the end of 2020 and highlight its debuting fashion show, or rather, Show Fashion last week. So it’s the label, consumer platform, and just the concept by Alber Elbaz we’re going to touch upon this time. Like any newly-minted brand, AZ Factory needed a comprehensive graphic identity, which would show its unique idea and playful nature

Now it seems like AZ Factory has found its voice or, should I say, face. The London-based Micha Weidmann Studio has created a custom logo for the ex-Lanvin designer’s label, which ideally matches it’s spirit and even reminds Alber Elbaz himself. The round shape of the logo illustrates the face motif, while a pair of big black dots on it play on the designer’s eyes that are never left unnoticed by the public because of the oversized glasses Elbaz constantly wears. The brand identity was created in close collaboration with AZ Factory itself and Andrew Black of agency Black, the founder of Micha Weidmann Studio says. So get ready to see AZ Factory pretty little motifs gazing at you from product brochures and swag bags and luring to pay a visit to the showroom 😉 

A R C H I T E C T U R E  

Art below the surface: an underwater museum opens off the coast of Cannes

If you’re a museum lover, what about taking a dive to enjoy the display? Just literally, traveling to the coast of Cannes, France, borrowing a scuba, and submerging at the 6-10 feet sea depth to visit an underwater museum by the artist Jason Decaires Taylor. Opened on February 01 2021, the subsea exhibition features 6 monumental sculptures, depicting portraits of local île sainte-marguerite members. 

Each artwork is split into 2 parts, a strong and resilient one and fragile and decaying the other, which symbolizes the ambiguous nature of a human. The display also refers to the history of the island, which is famous as the main action scene for The Man in the Iron Mask narrative. Not long ago, there used to be just some marine debris and disused infrastructure in place of the museum. However, when the mairie de Cannes and the mayor of the city embarked on the project, it took them just 4 years to create an underwater cultural gem close to the sea coast. Since the site has been cordoned off the boats, your visit to the Jason Decaires Taylor museum as a diver or a snorkeler might also be pretty safe.

Sleeping on the street can be comfortable. Try ‘Ulmer Nest’ 

History proves architecture can be very socially conscious. Perhaps the apogee of the approach ‘lofty ideals meet everyday needs was reached in the beginning of the previous century (Bauhaus buildings are an excellent example of that). However, there is still some room for pure intentions in the world of urban planning. Six German architects have recently come up with an innovative model of a pod or an emergency shelter for homeless people. Made of timber, solar-powered, the pod provides sleeping opportunities even in ‘bitterly cold winter weather’. 

Though ‘Das Ulmer Nest’ (that’s what the project is called) is not about living in the shelter or staying there for days, it will certainly succeed in keeping a person warm during one freezing night, so it’s better be taken as a ‘last resort’, cause you never know. Still all the necessary tech is provided by the design, including a heat exchanger, GPS sensors, smoke alarms, a motion detection, and secure locking systems. ‘Das Ulmer Nest’ has already been tested in a couple of locations across the German city of Ulm last year, however, the project team wants its expansion in and outside the country in 2021. Just in case, here are the names of the innovation creators: Patrick Kaczmarek, Florian Geiselhart, Falko Pross, Manuel Schall, Dirk Bayer, and Kathrin Uhl. 

Zaha Hadid Architects to build a part of Beijing Exhibition Center 

We’ve never doubted the potential of Zaha Hadid Architects (ZHA), however, this time the bureau has surpassed itself or, at least, hit a jackpot. The world-renowned architectural firm has won the design contest to build the next part of the International Exhibition Centre in Beijing. Thanks to its proximity to the city airport, the Exhibition Centre enjoys popularity with international guests as well as the local exponents. Conferences, trade fairs, industry expos — the Phase II of the Centre will just expand the variety and degree of communication between the parties. 

‘Integrated relationships between the exhibition halls, conference centre and hotel are echoed in the centre’s composition, arranged as a series of interconnecting lines and geometries that take inspiration from the textures of glazed tubular ceramic tile roofs within traditional Chinese architecture,’ that’s how the ZHA team explains the project concept. Some outdoor public spaces and landscaped gardens also promise to be included in the design, so that visitors of the International Exhibition Centre don’t miss contact with nature. According to the project plan, the site area stands at 63,74 hectares, while the average height of the center walls is 45 meters. Well, it will certainly take one time to see and evaluate the entire construction, when it’s ready, so should we just be patient and follow the news of Phase II. 

On the cover: Phase II project of the International Exhibition Center in Beijing by Zaha Hadid Architects. Courtesy of Zaha Hadid Architects

HAZEGALLERY. 3D Fashion Illustration Virtual Exhibition

By /NEWS/
HAZEGALLERY. 3D Fashion Illustration Virtual Exhibition

HAZEGALLERY is happy to announce the opening of 3D Fashion Illustration Exhibition

Opening on 5 of February till 27 of February 2021 powered by HAZEGALLERY BERLIN, “The Power of Fashion Strokes” is a group exhibition curated by Iren Russo and coordinated by Liyubov Melnickowa.

The show presents a graphic variety of fashion illustrations from artists all around the world providing a vivid cultural & visual reflection of fashion through aesthetic, cultural, & social shifts.

The exhibition presents finest artists working in fashion illustration, who show aesthetic quality and pure beauty in their works. Most of the artists have illustrated extensively for leading fashion houses, magazines and corporations.

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