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Art Digest: October 19—25

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: October 19—25

Have you ever noticed that anything lost gets found? No matter how well it was hidden… In fact, quite the opposite — the biggest secrets have a way of getting out. The same is true about the masterpieces — whether hidden, stolen or lost, so many paintings eventually get back to the home collection to the joy of numerous art lovers. That’s exactly the story of Gustav Klimt’s ‘Portrait of a Lady’ that was abducted from the Ricci Oddi gallery 20 years ago. The other discovery of the week is that three top Hollywood actresses are going to be guest narrators at the ‘About Time: Fashion and Duration’ exhibition, which finally takes place at the Met Museum starting from the next week. More on this and the other weekly news in the digest below.

Artist Gustav Klimt, right, with his partner, Emilie Flöge, circa 1910. Photo_ Getty Images_

A R T

‘Portrait of a Lady’ by Gustav Klimt to be displayed after 20 years missing 

Another art heist of the century, news. The collection of the Ricci Oddi gallery (Piacenza, Italy) received back its masterpiece in the beginning of the week. The painting by famous Austrian artist Gustav Klimt titled ‘Portrait of a Lady’ was stolen from the Italian gallery during its reconstruction in February 1997. The investigative authorities had a few versions of the incident, including the one suggesting that people close to the gallery had been involved in the scam. Currently robbers have been identified — the two elderly men confessed to the theft last year right after the limitation period for the crime had expired.

Left, Klimt_s Portrait of a Lady (1916-17)_ and right, the Ricci Oddi gallery in Piacenza. Courtesy of the Ricci Oddi gallery_

To be more precise, the thieves ‘gifted’ the painting to the museum four years ago having placed it in the niche of the gallery wall thickly covered with ivy bushes. It was the local gardener who discovered the work while clearing the wall a year ago. Now the ‘Portrait of a Lady’ is back at the Ricci Oddi gallery and there are big plans for it! Four shows dedicated to the figure of Gustav Klimt will run spanning two years in the institution. The first exhibition runs from November 2020 till March 2021. No doubt, the freshly recovered jewel is going to be in limelight on the display.

Meryl Streep, Nicole Kidman, and Julianne Moore to narrate the upcoming Met exhibition 

The annual exhibition organized by the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute, which comes as a conceptual sequel of the Met Gala, is a long-awaited event, no doubt. Yet this year we had to await it for too long — instead of traditionally taking place in May, the show starts off in late October lasting till February 2021. No more dwelling on the reasons of the postponement, we would better focus on the event itself. The intriguing topic of the year 2019 (remember it was Camp: Notes on Fashion’) gives a way to the no less interesting ‘About Time: Fashion and Duration’.

From left to right_ Julianne Moore, Meryl Streep, and Nicole Kidman at the 2002 New York premiere of ‘The Hours’. Photo_ Getty Images

Perfectly in line with the Museum’s exhibition policy, the current show promises to be a visual delicacy, equally referring to the worlds of art and fashion. According to the Wendy Curator, Andrew Bolton, the exhibition was designed as a ‘meditation on fashion and temporality — drawing out the tensions between change and endurance, transience and permanence, ephemerality and persistence’. However, the show isn’t only about an image, it’s also about a sound. The soundtrack to the event (if it’s a right word) is based on Virginia Woolf’s novel ‘Orlando’. Hollywood actresses Julianne Moore, Meryl Streep, and Nicole Kidman will voice the abstracts from Woolf’s work, thus creating the auditory background of the display. Why Streep, Kidman, and Moore? Well, if you’ve watched the 2002 film ‘The Hours’ starring the three actresses, you probably know the answer. 

From the display of ‘About Time_ Fashion and Duration’ at Met, May 2020. Photo_ Annie Leibovitz

Shepard Fairey creates US election-inspired posters for Time 

Right after designing an anti-Trump billboard for the Artists United for Change group, street artist Shepard Fairey took over another enlightening job. In light of the upcoming US election on November 03, Fairey decided to assist Time Magazine in encouraging Americans to demonstrate their citizenship. The artist created a cover for the November issue of Time, depicting a woman wearing a bandana as a face covering (a little criticism for those who skip doing that and, consequently, don’t really take their civil liability).

‘Even though the subject in the portrait knows there are additional challenges to democracy during a pandemic, she is determined to use her voice and power by voting’. (Shepard Fairey

The portrait originates from the artist’s 2020 series called ‘Our Hands — Our Future’. Shepard Fairey believes that it’s not only voting that constitutes the bright democratic future, yet casting a ballot is crucial to contribute to this honorable target. Remarkably, never before has Time Magazine removed their masthead from the cover giving space to the artist’s ideas. However, this concession might seem less surprising, bearing in mind that Shepard Fairey collaborates with Time for the third time already.

Artist Shepard Fairey working in his studio. Courtesy of Shepard Fairey _ Instagram_

F A S H I O N 

Nature-inspired S/S 2021 collection by Australian designer Dion Lee 

Even if the word collocation Australian fashion doesn’t ring a bell to you, it’s never too late to learn more. Especially with such talented Australian creatives on radar. The Sydney-born fashion designer Dion Lee established his eponymous brand in 2009. In the same year Lee took part in the Australian Fashion Week and got things rolling rather quickly in his home context. However, his international rise came in 2018, when the Duchess of Sussex Meghan Markle was seen in public wearing one of Lee’s dresses. 

Dion Lee has recently presented his S/S 2021 Ready-To-Wear collection, and it’s quite different from everything that came before under the label’s roof. Focusing on technicality and ‘intelligent sensuality’ (Dion Lee’s expression), the brand usually offers nontrivial, asymmetrical outfits that look bold and sexy. This time apart from sex appeal, the S/S 2021 dresses radiate intimacy and harmony with the world around. Inspired by the warming issue, the collection features organic curves (such as Monstera leaf-shaped leather tops), light natural shades, and sophisticated weaving (knotting, macramé etc). Dion Lee, all eyes on you, curious what’s coming next!

Dion Lee S_S 2021 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Courtesy of the brand

Dion Lee S_S 2021 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Courtesy of the brand

Dion Lee S_S 2021 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Courtesy of the brand

P H O T O G R A P H Y 

Foam Talent Call 2020’ winners announced 

Keen photographers know it firsthand. Organized by Foam Magazine, the annual event has been running for five years, creating opportunities for young and aspiring visual artists. All right, it’s Foam Talent Call. On the table is going on public display as well as having one’s works featured in Foam Magazine. Not bad, right?

The Foam Talent 2020 edition has recently announced the finalists. There are 19 of them, selected out of 1,619 portfolios from 69 countries. The chosen visual artists will showcase their works at Kühlhaus Berlin (Berlin) from 22 October — 1 November, 2020.

Foam Talent 2020 _ From the series ‘Charlie Surfs on Lotus Flowers’. Photo_ Simone Sapienza_

Foam Talent 2020 _ From the series ‘PVC Meatway’. Photo_ Aadesokan

Foam Talent 2020 _ From the series ‘Fire Island Night’. Photo_ Matthew Leifheit

Later on the exhibition will move to Amsterdam. Here are a few sneak picks, if you are sure about your plans to attend the show yet.

“HELMUT NEWTON ONE HUNDRED”

By /NEWS/

Helmut Newton, Amica, Milan_1982_copyright Helmut Newton Estate

“HELMUT NEWTON ONE HUNDRED”

On 31 October 2020 Helmut Newton would have been 100 years old. His foundation was established in Berlin Charlottenburg in the fall of 2003, and then opened in the summer of 2004 since then it has presented more than 50 exhibitions. Now, the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin is taking this special anniversary as an occasion to celebrate the exceptional photographer – for the first time by presenting his legendary, timeless, and innovative work in a large public outdoor exhibition in Berlin.

The Helmut Newton Foundation will present a large outdoor exhibition along the 85 meter-long wall at Kraftwerk Berlin on Köpenicker Strasse 70, in the Kreuzberg district. On vew from 26 October to November 2020, the exhibition will be publicly accessible 24/7. Some 30 images from all of Newton’s creative periods as well as some quotes by Newton have been selected for this temporary show, HELMUT NEWTON ONE HUNDRED

Additionally, 250 City Light posters depicting Newton’s work will be on display during this time throughout Berlin, with the generous support of WALL Never before has Newton’s work been seen in this way.

More information on official website
helmut-newton-foundation.org

Press contact:
Nadine Dinter @nadine_dinter

MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK RUSSIA WILL SHOW MOSCOW

By /NEWS/
MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK RUSSIA WILL SHOW MOSCOW

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia is taking place on October, 19-23 at 8 Moscow-based venues simultaneously. Shows from the capital will be topped up with livestreams from four Russian cities. Around 60 designers and fashion houses will showcase their new collections, and all the shows and presentations will be streamed in the social media and at partner websites.

Due to the current epidemiological situation in the capital, the organizers of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia decided to move this season’s shows from Manege to independent venues with a focus on livestreams. “Our objective is to prevent crowding and comply with every letter of the sanitary guidelines introduced because of the coronavirus infection spreading. Today, safety of our participants and guests is our number one priority. At some venues, we’re going to manage the process so not to change the spirit and efficiency of the event by the glove-mask mode,” says Alexander Shumsky, President of Russian Fashion Council and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia.

The upcoming season is going to be unique, as MBFW Russia schedule is going to unite livestreamed shows from different cities and countries. This time, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia will include special shows by Russian designers, based in St. Petersburg, Sochi, Krasnodar, and Yakutsk. Moreover, a joint show by Indonesian designers livestreamed right from Jakarta will take place during the event. Other announcements on the schedule include fashion houses from Argentina, Peru, UK and USA. “The new COVID reality in 2020 offered us an unprecedented opportunity to experiment with the Fashion week format. MBFW Russia is going to become the first fashion week to livestream the shows from 6 locations throughout the globe. This is both technologically and organizationally challenging, and nevertheless, we’re starting this project with different cities and countries this season. This format is going to have high potential not only during the closed skies period,” Alexander Shumsky is sure.

Presentations of the new collections will be available for viewers from all over the world at various online platforms and media websites, as well as at VK – the major social network of Russia and CIS. Starting with the first virtual season in spring, projects by MBFW Russia have attracted 2.5+ mln followers from Russia and many other countries to their livestreams in half a year.

Grants for FASHION brands from fashion fund
To support emerging talents during the pandemic-caused economic recession Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia together with Fashion Fund have started a large-scale grant program focused on Russian designers. From 50 entries, Advisory board has chosen 13 winners: Lokoto, Marfa Fedorova, Lubovi, BUTS8, k∅d, Ola Ola, Les’ by Lesia Paramonova, Maison Esve, 1377, Maison Kaleidoscope, Za_Za, Mad Daisy, Innominate. With the grants provided by Fashion Fund, designers from Moscow and other Russian cities will be able to present their shows at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia without an entry fee.

#MBFWRUSSIA PARTICIPANTS
During Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia scheduled for October, 19-23, Russian designers will showcase their new collections, including Chapurin, Za_Za, Maison Kaleidoscope, Ónoma:, K Titova, Brevno, Lokoto, Math, o5o, Julia Dalakian, Tsiganova, Svarka, Marfa Fedorova, Fashion a la Russe project’s participants – Kazakova Olga, Klimovskikh Valeria, Belousova Nadezhda, Lubovi, Hard by HSE Art and Design School, Otocyon, Mardo._, Sergey Sysoev, k∅d, Solko, Lena Karnauhova, Yana Besfamilnaya, N.Legenda, Sxema, Lutani, Les’ by Lesia Paramonova, Kisselenko, Maison Esve,  Institute of Business & Design (B&D), Vakproject, Elena Souproun, Mad Daisy, Nastya Nekrasova, Kruzhok, Gilvichyute, Semiletova. Besides, the Fashion Week will be attended by designers from different countries – Chain (Argentina), Wignyo X rorokenes, Vivi Zubedi, Defika Hanum X Pala Nusantara/Shoes by UJ Yuna, Anggia X Beadstown, Roemah Kebaya Vielga, Thiffa Qaisty, IR & IR, Ina Priyono, Agung Bali Collection X Bahalap, Adhy Alie (Indonesia); Annaiss Yucra (Peru); Linus Leonardsson x The Guestlist (UK), Chelsea Grays (USA) and others.

Virtual showroom 360
#MBFWRussia continues to conquer the digital space. For the new season, a UK-based B2B digital wholesale platform BrandLab Fashion has made a virtual version of the Pop-Up Shop showroom. Without leaving home, visitors will be able to take an interactive 3D tour and explore in detail collections by 16 Russian brands, as well as purchase garments and accessories directly. The virtual showroom, opening on October 19, will present brands: Amarin, Ola Ola, Maison Esve, Ría Studio, Not for sale, Leather Like Wood, Gerda 2 store, Dzhanelli Jewellery, Rcp4.5, General VI, Two Eagles, Lubovi, Blanc, Brevno, Vakproject, Yana Besfamilnaya.

Please stay tuned and follow all the updates through our official websites http://mercedesbenzfashionweek.ru/en/, https://russianfashioncouncil.ru/en/

Art Digest: October 12—18

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: October 12—18

Shhh, great news — a new column devoted to fashion in all its manifestations is coming soon. Stay tuned and check our beloved haze.gallery for details. Now it’s time to discuss the most elegant and sudden headlines for this week. 

F A S H I O N

Meet Michael Kors S/S 2021 Ready-To-Wear Collection

It’s been almost a month since New York Fashion Week came to an end. American designer Michael Kors is finally ready to showcase the brand’s Spring/Summer 2021 Ready-To-Wear collection, and it’s about a digital show again. Michael Kors inclines to reduce the number of fashion shows to 2 per year, finding October a perfect time to reveal the upcoming season trends.

‘People are just seeing the fall clothes for the first time in stores. Why are we showing them the spring clothes before they’ve even seen the fall ones?’the designer exclaims. 

As for the recent S/S 2021 Ready-To-Wear collection, it might be rightfully called ‘Dress comfortable to feel yourself confident’. Warm light shades, demi-season fabrics (in the sense that the outfits are suitable for wearing not only on the beach), in a word, smart casual in the best possible way. Kors stays true to his manner and prefers acting independently. The result? Judge for yourself, it’s straight ahead. 

Michael Kors S_S 2021 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Courtesy of Michael Kors

Michael Kors S_S 2021 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Courtesy of Michael Kors

Michael Kors S_S 2021 Ready-To-Wear Collection. Courtesy of Michael Kors

First commercial by Felipe Oliveira Baptista for Kenzo presented 

Remember the Kenzo latest Bee a Tiger’ collection presented at PFW? The brand’s new creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptista has opted to pursue the story unveiling his first commercial campaign for Kenzo. Yes, the leitmotif for the ‘Going Places’ campaign is great uncertainty, consequential confusion, and… a window of opportunity.

Initially Felipe Oliveira Baptista planned to go to his native Azores to film for the new campaign, but the pandemic made him change the shooting location for New York and Los Angeles. For the ‘Going Places’ he collaborated with his long-term partner stylist Jane How and iconic fashion photographer Glen Luchford. The concept of the shooting also belonged to Luchford: Baptista’s team selected images from the photographer’s archives, while Glen tried shooting Kenzo models in the same pose and under the same light as in the old pictures. The mannequins were wearing the label’s Fall-Winter 2020 collection, radiating the spirit of youth, traveling, and constant search, just in line with the philosophy of the brand. Baptista seems to be a genuine successor of Kenzo Takada’s ideas. Very regrettably, the founder of the fashion empire died on October, 04, here we recall the life and the creative path of the genius.

D E S I G N 

Pantone and Globe reveal new series of colourful decks 

If you’re a regular reader of our column, you might remember us talking about Pantone Colour Institute quite a few times, the last time was just recently. However, Pantone doesn’t get tired of surprising all those who are in love with the colour. This time the Institute pursued a successful collaboration with the skate brand Globe releasing a unique series of collectible decks (colourful, as you might guess). 

Each box set from the new series features five 8.25″ decks made from Canadian marple and painted in line with the Pantone Colour Of The Year 2021 palette. Among the colors are Classic Blue (2020), Living Coral (2019), Ultra Violet (2018), Greenery (2017), and Tangerine Tango (2012). If you are looking forward to purchasing the product, keep in mind that the edition is limited. The first batch has been already sold out, the release date for Box Set 02 is November, 06. Learn more on the Globe website

Photo_ @danpreston_1_Hypebeast

Photo_ @danpreston_1_Hypebeast

Photo_ @danpreston_1_Hypebeast

A R T 

The other Warhol: discover early photographs of the King of Pop Art 

Does the figure of Andy Warhol attract your interest? In any aspect, I mean, either as a bright phenomenon of pop culture or an artist/producer/rule breaker from the world art whose extraordinary fate had probably outperformed any of his life expectations. The latter can be easily explored with the help of the related projects, archives, and memories of Warhol’s colleagues. The photographs of the thirty-something-year-old artist shot by David McCabe is a good example.

In 1964 David McCabe was just 24. The aspiring photographer left his hometown Leicester and crossed the Atlantic to hitch a jackpot (as he would find out later). A relatively unknown illustrator and wannabe artist named Andy Warhol was looking for an assistant to document his life. Back then McCabe had no idea who Andy was, neither he realized it was a carpe diem moment, yet he took the chance. Over the year David followed Warhol to parties and exhibitions and just everywhere the client would go to make more than 2,500 images… and put them aside.

The thing is Andy Warhol had spread his wings and changed his image from a timid amateur to a local celebrity by 1965. In his lifetime Warhol wouldn’t come up with any idea what to do with the images — perhaps the artist’s renown hesitation was the reason (McCabe recalls Andy Warhol really bothered what he looked like in the eyes of the others). Four decades passed. David McCabe selected ⅕ of the photographs taken in the far 1964 and published a book under the title ‘A Year in the Life of Andy Warhol’ in 2003. Today some of the works are on sale through Proud Galleries with McCabe himself talking to Dazed Digital about his early (and such an extraordinary) acquaintance with the King of Pop Art.

About ‘Luxes’: New exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs 

What do you know about luxury? That could have been a seducing motto for another commercial of perfume or jewelry. But no, ‘Luxes’ is the theme for the new exhibition at the Parisian museum of Decorative Arts or Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Until May 2, 2021 you are welcomed to investigate the essence of what’s called precious. More than 100 objects on display brought from different parts of the world ideally match such categories as beautiful, rare, and exceptional — all those that constitute the idea of luxury.

Yet the artifacts featured don’t have much in common at first blush — Old Egyptian attributes of divine worship, gold-detailed Chinese porcelains from the XVIII century, and even a Cartier clock (1927). Ah yes, also a Little Black Dress by Chanel and outfits from the Christian Dior Cruise 2020 collection. That’s the thing — the organizers of the exhibition don’t only showcase subjects that are (used to be) deemed ‘lux’ but also trace the evolution of the concept. That makes the project so ambitious and spectacular.

‘From ecology to diversity, luxury will become increasingly less material and the idea of experience — discovery, individual reflection, and one’s own definition of luxury — will become the emphasis in tomorrow’s world.’ (Olivier Gabet, curator of the ‘Luxes’ exhibition)

Art Digest: October 05—11

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: October 05—11

Curiously, the fashion brand Maison Margiela and The Guerrilla Girls are around the same age. Just like about 3 decades ago, the former keeps on flourishing and exciting the viewer under the creative direction of John Galliano, while the later has recently published a new book on the collective’s artistic heritage. Besides, the Moscow International Film Festival has announced this year’s winners, while the best from Frieze London 2020 edition can be learnt from The Art Newspaper website. Welcome to this week PH Art Digest!

A R T 

New retrospective book by Guerilla Girls coming out 

Since 1985 a few girls wearing gorilla masks have been coming to public spaces, mostly nearby art institutions to express their opinion on feminist issues. Yes, I’m talking about the Guerrilla Girls, who initially went by ‘guerillas’ but someone misspelt the name in a publication, so the mistake became fateful. Though 30 years is a long time and feminism has stepped far ahead since then, the art group shows no signs of stopping. In the newly-minted retrospective ‘Guerrilla Girls: The Art of Behaving Badly’ the artists share their great experience. The book is already available online and will soon appear on the book shelves.

The Guerrilla Girls have always been acting anonymously (you never know who is behind the mask) and collectively (group members change from time to time). Considered feminist activist artists, the Guerrilla Girls discuss the issues of sexism and racism in the art world on public, organizing billboard performances, demonstrations, and other activities. Their appeals sound like: ‚Do women have to get naked to get into the MoMA Museum?‚, or ‚Only 4 commercial galleries in N.Y. show black women. Only 1 shows more than one‘. They also enjoy raising questions in a playful and yet sharp way: e.g. ‚If February is Black history month and March is a Women’s history month, what happens the rest of the year? Answer: Discrimination‘. The Guerrilla Girls stand out in the art scene thanks to their straightforward, aggressive yet ironic style, and it’s really worth discovering!

A R T   M A R K E T

The Art Newspaper Guide to Frieze London 2020

Despite all concerns, Frieze London 2020 has successfully taken place this week. This year the famous London contemporary art fair coincides with its related enterprise Frieze Masters (the one showing both historical and modern artworks). Located within walking distance from each other in the Regent’s Park, Frieze London and Frieze Masters welcome the general public from October 9—11, while the invitation-only preview days were held a bit earlier, on October 7 and 8.

If you didn’t happen to visit the fair or, conversely, you have and now you want to shape a well-founded position of it, the digital version of Art Newspaper is here to help. Digests of the most interesting events running, a curated pick of Frieze London by the artistic director of the fair Eva Langret, themed podcasts, and many more are waiting for you on the platform. For those curious about taking a virtual tour to the exhibition, watching live videos, and listening to the records of Frieze Talks, welcome to the main website of Frieze.

O P P O R T U N I T I E S 

The Creative Mentorship opportunity by Adobe and OFFF Academy 

You’re an artist and your career has been recently interrupted by the forced hiatus? During the COVID-19 lockdown many creatives felt like that, but thankfully there are those who are ready to help. Adobe in partnership with OFFF-Academy is proceeding with The Creative Mentorship project that was launched last year. Six chosen applicants will win a seven-month mentorship by the leading experts of the industry.

To apply for the opportunity you have to be an artist under the age of 30 working in one of the following fields: 3D work, art direction, motion, video, photography, and interaction design. Communication between mentors and mentees will be hosted monthly through online-sessions, however, an all-expenses-paid trip to the mentor’s studio for two days is also included. Besides, winners will be granted with an opportunity to present their works at the OFFF Barcelona upcoming edition, a three-day festival of workshops, performances, and other artistic activities planned for May 6—8, 2021. Curious? Learn more and apply here

‘Metaconstructions’ by the 2019 winner, 3D artist Vlad Dultsev

The Creative Mentorship opportunity by Adobe and OFFF Academy

‘Metaconstructions’ by the 2019 winner, 3D artist Vlad Dultsev

F A S H I O N

Maison Margiela presented S/S 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection (it’s a video) 

Some fresh memories from the recent Milan and Paris fashion weeks may suggest: fashion docus are the new black. Instead of providing full-format live shows many brands prefer screening small films (sometimes, even quite long ones). So did John Galliano, Maison Margiela creative director, for the label’s S/S 2021 Ready-to-Wear campaign. The film was produced by Nick Knight, who had worked on the brand’s A/W 2020 Couture collection earlier this year. 

In the video, which lasts ¾ of an hour, Galliano explains why he had chosen this medium and shares the details of the creative process. Inspired by the history of tango and South-American wedding fashion at once, Maison Margiela S/S 2021 collection calls for long skirts and pants, acute-shaped shoulders and collars, whimsical draping, and the rockiest colours ever like bloody red, space blue, and, of course, black. A dramatic aftertaste left behind, the process being shown from inside and, perhaps, the best about the new video by Margiela — you can watch it anytime, it is never over. 

Courtesy of Maison Margiela

Courtesy of Maison Margiela

Courtesy of Maison Margiela

C I N E M A

Moscow International Film Festival #42 announced winners 

The Moscow International Film Festival happened for the 42nd time in its history from October 1—8, 2020. More than 180 works by the cinema professionals from Norway, Brazil, India, Mexico, Romania, and other countries took part in the competition. On the last day the festival jurors took stock of the season, and here are the films highly acclaimed by the critics (note to self).

The main prize or ‘Golden George’ was awarded to the Russian film ‘A Siege Diary’ by Andrey Zaitsev. ‘Silver George’ or the special jury prize went to the Turkish work ‘In the Shadows’ directed by Erdem Tepegoz. The following persons were honored with the solo awards: Rishi Pelham (‘Hilda, UK) as the Best Director, Gur Bentwich (‘Peaches & Cream’, Israel) as the Best Actor, Megan Purvis (‘Hilda, UK) as the Best Actress, and ‘Nocturne’ (directed by Gwanjo Jeong, Republic of Korea) as the Best Film of the Documentary Competition.

 Looking forward to seeing even more thought-provoking and meaningful films next year!

Kenzo Takada: Evangelist for Freedom from the World of Fashion

By /BLOG/, /FASHION/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Kenzo Takada: Evangelist for Freedom from the World of Fashion

It’s pretty amazing, but the figure of Kenzo Takada has been closely associated with his brainchild, even after the designer retired from Kenzo fashion house in 1999. Having founded Kenzo in 1970, he was putting up his company brick by brick for thirty years — and devoted himself to free creation afterwards. The upcoming Kenzo creative directors who headed the brand in different years tried carefully to keep up the philosophy crystallized by the founding father. But Takada was unique.

Kenzo Takada died of COVID-19 complications on October 04 in Paris. The bitter news immediately shook up at the time running Paris Fashion Week. The previous seasons Takada was a frequent and desired guest in the space of PFW, while new collections by Kenzo fashion house were still lightening up the runway and astonishing the viewer. In 2020 the brand celebrates its 50 year anniversary. Kenzo Takada would probably like being remembered as the one who had brought freshness and revolution into fashion. A little story below is a tribute to him.

How that all began 

Kenzo Takada was born into a family of small entrepreneurs in Himeji, Japan, in 1939. His parents Kenji and Shizu Takada were running a hotel and led a modest life, since the family had 7 children. Kenzo recalled flipping passionately through his sister’s fashion magazines as a kid, dreaming of designing clothes for the wide-eyed Western women. However, Takada’s parents didn’t encourage his emerging interest in fashion, rather stimulating the boy to find a solid job. To satisfy his family’s wishes Kenzo Takada began studying literature at Kobe University but dropped out soon (obviously, to his mum’s and dad’s great disappointment). 

What made him act so carelessly? A timid step to his dream: Takada entered Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo, quite a famous Japanese vocational school with a focus on the fashion industry. Yet, it was tough in the beginning. The famous couturier used to say, university wasn’t his thing, and that also matched his study at Bunka

‘When I entered the school of design in Tokyo, <…> I wasn’t at that level, I couldn’t understand everything’ (Kenzo Takada)

And yet, the designer made a big progress at the time. He won the Soen Award established by the so-called Japanese magazine, in 1961. After graduating from Bunka college, Kenzo Takada worked for the Sanai department store for a couple of years, where he gained some good experience in designing female outfits. 

All roads lead to Paris 

Kenzo was advised to head for Paris still during his college studies. The designer would probably never decide on such expenses, if it wasn’t for the chance. Takada was provided with some monetary compensation, when his flat was demolished by the government in preparation for the Summer Olympics in 1964. So, Kenzo took a boat trip to the world fashion capital, making stops at various cities such as Saigon, Hong Kong, Mumbai, and others along the way. 

Against expectations Paris didn’t inspire Kenzo much, rather looking to him as a dismal and bleak place. However, obviously it was the city of opportunities. Initially planning to stick around in France for half a year, Kenzo Takada spent the rest of his amazing life in Paris creating the first world-famous Japanese fashion brand, blending haute couture with hipster outfits, and just revolutionizing the world of vogue. 

During his first years in Paris Kenzo made a living selling fashion sketches and working at the Pisanti textile manufacturer. Expensive materials were above his pay grade, so the emerging designer spent hours at the flea market looking for proper scraps to further combine them with some fabrics preserved from Japan. So naturally Kenzo’s signature manner of blending Eastern and Western influences arose (adding to this the designer’s admiration for his mother’s kimonos).

Kenzo Takada got the lucky strike selling a few of his fashion sketches inspired by the futurist designer André Courrèges to Louis Feraud fashion house. This accomplishment as well as his experience as a company designer in Paris made Kenzo think of setting his own brand. 

A day has come 

It happened in 1970. Kenzo Takada occupied an unkempt clothing store in the Galerie Vivienne, manually decorated its walls, and hosted the first show by the newly minted brand. The original name of the label was Jungle Jap, which caused a big confusion: to Japanese ear the word ‘jap’ sounded offensive. Although Takada’s intention was rather to redefine the expression, he wouldn’t insist on that and named the company after himself instead. Clothes from the Kenzo first collection were featured on the cover of Elle magazine right away, and that was just the beginning.  

Kenzo fashion show in 1979 was staged like a circus performance with female mannequins dressed in uniforms riding horses and Takada himself arriving on an elephant. In 1989 just before leaving his brainchild for good the designer organized an unimagined extravaganza where everybody danced, had fun, and just celebrated life. His fashion shows have always been memorable for the viewer and especially appealed to those young and young-hearted (as one of the fashion retailers who worked together with Kenzo used to say). So, what is the secret?

First, Kenzo Takada kept on balancing between Western trends and Eastern tradition. The thing is the designer wasn’t fond of his home culture much while living there but started appreciating it staying away from Japan. During his burgeoning career Takada used to travel often to Southeast Asia, willing to catch inspiration and motifs for his future collections. If anyone in the world ever refused to follow fashion fads blindly, it was Kenzo.

‘When you are forced to follow the trends you are not very close to, it imprisons’ (Kenzo Takada)

Second, the designer mixed ‘high’ and ‘low’ with gusto. He was surprised not finding anything in between haute couture and niche outfits, such as those of hippies, when arriving first time in Paris. Kenzo Takada was convinced that fashion shouldn’t be too serious and expensive. As Antonio Marras, the brand’s second creative director, used to say, Kenzo stood for freedom and regarded vogue as fun. In Kenzo fashion shows models smiled cordially and moved around at ease radiating pure vivacity.

Yet no doubt it was the personality of Kenzo Takada himself that made the spirit of the brand so enchanting. He was loved almost by everyone in the fashion world (where so many creatives are on the outs) for his energy, enthusiasm, and generosity. He was too broad-minded and creative to be mediocre, and he believed in the freedom of expression. ‘As a kid I felt like I don’t know how to speak’ — dwelled Takada on his childhood years of dyslexia. Should fashion have become the richest language for Kenzo

Final steps 

Kenzo brand has undergone an entire evolution before becoming the world-renowned fashion house. Starting with femme collections only, the label introduced its men’s wear line in 1983. Kenzo for Women was the first female perfume issued by the brand (1989), while the pioneering male fragrance was Kenzo Cologne pour Homme (1991). In 2001 also a skincare line KenzoKi arrived but it was already after the milestone when Kenzo Takada left the company.

In 1993 Takada decided to sell the label to the French conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. According to the couturier, the world of fashion was getting too tense and materialistic for him.
Initially remaining the company designer, Kenzo finally stepped away in 1999 handing over the creative management of the brand to his adherent Gilles Rosier, whom he trained a few seasons before the designation. In 2004 Rosier was replaced by the Italian Antonio Marras, who, in his turn, gave way to the creative duo Humberto Leon + Carol Lim in 2011. Filipe Oliveira Baptista has been the chief creative officer of Kenzo since 2019 (his latest Bee A Tiger collection was recently showcased on Paris Fashion Week SS 21). 

As for Kenzo Takada, he would never stop his search for creativity and freedom. Ultimately leaving the brand in 1999, Kenzo entered into free floating as a true artist. In 2004 he launched the Gokan Kobo lifestyle brand (in translation from Japanese the name means 5 senses). Reasonably, the label was composed of the five departments: the ties and scarf collection, beachwear, ready-to-wear, home, and fragrance. However, Takada’s interest in the homeware category didn’t end there. The fruitful combination between Kenzo and Roche Bobois furniture design company led to the creation of the innovative Mah Jong modular sofa in 2016, while in the beginning of this year Kenzo Takada announced the launch of K3 (originally, K三) the luxury lifestyle brand. 

He would certainly go on and on astonishing us, the audience, by always new approaches and discoveries. Unfortunately, we will never know what other talents the enigmatic and wonderful Kenzo Takada had, but his mere legacy gifted to the planet is precious.

Rest in peace, Kenzo Takada. 

Cover: Kenzo Takada salutes the audience at the F/W 1998—1999 collection presentation. Photo: Joel Saget/AFP/Getty Images

Milan Fashion Week SS 21: Brief Inspiration Guide

By /BLOG/, /FASHION/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Milan Fashion Week SS 21: Brief Inspiration Guide

What is Milan Fashion Week?

Milan Fashion Week (MFW) enters the famous ‘Big Four’, following New York and London Fashion Weeks and preceding the Paris event. Legally speaking, it’s a clothing trade show but in fact, it’s so much more! Leading designers of the Italian fashion industry such as Giorgio Armani, Roberto Cavalli, Fendi and others semi-annually gather in Milan to share their creative vision for the future through a series of fashion shows, presentations, and various spectacular events. Women’s Fashion Weeks are held in February and September, while Men’s take place in January and June. Founded by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana in the far 1958, MFW won a wider public perception only in the late 70s when the show format was extended to several days with a few venues involved. Before that Florence was deemed the fashion capital of Italy with the majority of events running in the Palazzo Pitti (in the renowned Sala Bianca or the White Salon).

Anything special about MFW SS 21?

This year is special itself, you know. Because of the pandemic February and July editions of MFW (the latter was rather impromptu) moved online. As for the Milan Fashion Week SS 21, its organizer, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana decided to get ‘phygital’: online and offline events, presentations, and fashion shows were running coherently alternated from September 22—28. Curiously enough, some brands limited themselves to online shows only, while those who dared to prefer physical to digital fundamentally took care of precautionary measures. May this news have scared off some of the participants? Well, it was the case for Gucci and Bottega Veneta, who were earlier reported to have withdrawn from the show. Indeed, D&G repeatedly joined MFW (the brand already did it in July) after a few years of absence. Fendi turned its sights on the Milan Fashion Week, sacrificing its plans in Rome to that end. Eventually, Valentino transferred its show from one fashion capital to another (all right, from Paris to Milan), which was a big surprise for all.

Trends recognized 

It stands to reason that wearing a mask has become not only a necessity and a moral obligation but also a fashion trend. Though not bringing too much of that, some brands tried putting facial masks on their models, just like Atsushi Nakashima and Marni did. Exposed bellies and deep necklines seemed to be back in vogue the upcoming spring-summer season. Minimal make-up, just bold red lips (D&G, Max Mara, Versace), but quite a few accessories like fringe bags, necklaces, and Panama hats (Fendi, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Ports 1961). Finally, diversity is being celebrated: a few plus-size were spotted on the runway, let alone people of colour. New section called ‘We’re made in Italy’ established by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana represented art by black-owned fashion businesses, while Emerging Designers Hub showcased young talents, inter alia, Hungarian designers from the Budapest Select.

Fendi Spring_Summer 2021 on Milan Fashion Week. Courtesy of Fendi

D_G S_S 2021 on MFW. Courtesy of D_G

Ports 1961 2021 S_S collection on MFW. Courtesy of Ports 1961

Instead of simply showing mannequins walking down the catwalk, designers experimented with telling stories through their collections. (thanks to the phygital format of the Week). For example, Luisa Beccaria shared a beautiful family history in the 8-minute film, while Emilio Pucci created a featherlight summer narrative (with the help of the rising designer Tomo Koizumi). However, it’s Moschino that really stood out: the brand invited guests to a puppet theatre show (online, of course), where all the mannequins and designers including Anna Wintour sitting in the front row as a VIP guest, and Jeremy Scott, Moschino creative director were presented as …hinged puppets. All the outfits from the Moschino SS 2021 collection were also in miniature, but no less real. Whether a tendency or not, storytelling in fashion might become a good alternative to the traditional runways, carrying the idea of new sincerity and embodying a more engaging form of self-presentation.

Moschino ‘Puppet’ SS 21 Fashion Show on MFW. Courtesy of Moschino_

Moschino ‘Puppet’ SS 21 Fashion Show on MFW. Courtesy of Moschino

Moschino ‘Puppet’ SS 21 Fashion Show on MFW. Courtesy of Moschino

Alberta Ferretti: 

‘My gut instinct was to embrace kindness and a certain seductive softness (Alberta Ferretti)

Special features: fringe bags — short puffed sleeves — focus on the shoulders — high-waisted slacks — sandals — belts with buckles — totem-like necklaces — neat patterns — Sangallo exquisite lace;  

Outfits from the Ferretti latest collection look romantic, relaxed, and imbued with vitality at once. As if you suddenly decided to go for a safari trip feeling nostalgia for the hot summer days. Enjoyable shades like sandy, apricot, jasmine white make it feel warm and desolate like in the heart of a lonely cowboy. Yet Ferretti SS 21 is a very feminine collection: easy, playful, and sophisticated, embodying the brand signature concept. 

NB: Alberta Ferretti designed her first collection in 1973. She launched Ferretti Jeans Philosophy in 1989, which was renamed Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti in 1994. Alberta Ferretti has been participating in Milan shows since 1981. 

Courtesy of Alberta Ferretti_

Courtesy of Alberta Ferretti_

Courtesy of Alberta Ferretti_

ANИAKIKI

‘In the creative world of ANИAKIKI, the future, technology, and aesthetics are no longer independent from each other, but are truly integrated and symbiotic’ (ANИAKIKI team)

Special features: form-fitting jumpsuits — mini dresses with whimsically shaped oversized sleeves — ominously narrow sport glasses — perfect symmetry with some unexpected irregularities — even balaclava; 

The colours are outer space! ANИAKIKI 2021 S/S collection encompasses the whole spectrum of night shades — deep purple, dark, and cornflower blue, metal silver and, of course, His Majesty black. As for the plot of the collection, it was inspired by the Oscar-nominated film ‘Contact’ (1997), where the main character, a keen scientist explores the cosmos being obsessed with the idea to find evidence of extraterrestrial life and establish contact with aliens. By the way, the last year collection by ANИAKIKI also presented on MFW was based on a surreal journey of a girl from the future, who traveled back to the 1980s from the year 2080. Kind of a similar story, isn’t it?

NB: The founder of the brand Anna Yang joined the industry of fashion in 2008, following in her family footsteps. The brand ANNAKIKI emerged in 2013, which title Anna Yang extracted from her own name and the name of her sister. ANNAKIKI was officially added to Milan Fashion Week Calendar in 2017; 

Courtesy of ANИAKIKI

Courtesy of ANИAKIKI

Courtesy of ANИAKIKI

Marni 

‘It is about discovering fragility as strength and emotions as a connection, celebrating the dissonances that make a symphony.’ (Francesco Risso, Marni creative director) 

Special features: long sleeves — U-shaped and short necklines — full skirts — coarse fabrics — stitches turned inside out — signature stripes and abstraction — paint peelings — expressive shades of red — cargo pants;  

Dreaming is not harmful, especially in the times of general uncertainty and anxiety. Marni created a very dispersed narrative telling people’s stories at ease: life, awakening, and links — these are the key words for the concept of the new Marni collection. Francesco Risso doesn’t say anything definite about the show, calling it a pure social experiment. Risso recalls that accidents always happen for a reason, and that could be a motto for the dreamy SS 2021 by Marni. Randomness is intertwined here with patterns, sensuality goes hand in hand with resilience. Also striking are the mannequins featured — really diverse with the beauty of every single model being emphasized and celebrated. 

NB: Marni was founded in 1994 by Consuelo Castiglioni. The brand joined the OTB Group (head company for such brands as Diesel, Maison Margiela, and Viktor&Rolf) in 2013. Francesco Risso has been creative director of Marni since 2016.

Courtesy of Marni

Courtesy of Marni

Courtesy of Marni

Elisabetta Franchi 

‘The power of nature as a rebirth and a real fresh start’ (Elisabetta Franchi team)

Special features: flowing translucent fabrics — mini dresses and skirts — flounces and lace — emphasis on details, such as earrings, headbands, and buttons — gorgeous bows — petite bags — a lot of lilac; 

Tender purple lilac in the blooming garden, a Roman patio, and sensual nymphets strolling around, that’s the vision of the upcoming spring by Elisabetta Franchi. Surely, dresses and skirts prevail, since this story is about a Female, who is seductive, sophisticated, but confident of herself and her desires at once. The SS 2021 collection by Franchi is not very rich in casual elements, just a few models of suits, trench coats, and pants that somehow keep in touch with reality. No doubt, airy cocktail dresses of exquisite shades are a way to escape from reality, but how beautiful and fresh this escape is! A perfect hymn to spring, no comment.  

NB: In 1998 Elisabetta Franchi founded Betty Blue S.p.a and fashioned the CELYN b collection. The homonymous brand Elisabetta Franchi came to life in 2012. ‘The Fairy Tale and The Gate SS15’ was the brand’s debut collection presented on MFW in 2014. 

Courtesy of Elisabetta Franchi

Courtesy of Elisabetta Franchi

Courtesy of Elisabetta Franchi

Versace 

‘Versace SS 2021 collection transports us underwater to Versacepolis’ (Donatella Versace) 

Special features: rebellious colors — revealing necklines — skirts with big flounces — exposed skin (especially, female) — frequent narrow strips — sea patterns — male capri pants — pleated ruffles — sudden cuts — suit jackets; 

Welcome to the subsea imperium of Versace! Past the Medusa head and ruined columns, through the labyrinths — yes, you’re in the guest zone, take your seat please, and enjoy! Donatella Versace didn’t take the risk of providing a live fashion show, however, the digital version will probably make you feel you are sitting in front of the runway. The SS 2021 collection came out just in line with the brand’s philosophy — bold, eccentric, sexually arousing, and clearly gender-differentiated (no unisex by Versace — girls are girls, boys are boys). However, some unexpected tricks also took place like fancy flounces, sea elements, and chain handles, let alone the immersing aura and the scenic background. 

Courtesy of Versace

Courtesy of Versace

Courtesy of Versace

NB: Versace was founded by Gianni Versace in 1978. His sister Donatella Versace inherited the empire in 1997. In 2018 the brand was sold to the fashion holding company founded by designer Michael Kors. However, Donatella still remains Versace creative director. 

Looking forward to Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2021-2022. See you there!

Art Digest: September 28—October 04

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: September 28—October 04

Colour red has traditionally been considered a primary one. Rich and incentive, red evokes passion and … aggression. Pantone Color Institute has recently come up with a new hue of red, which is meant to end menstruation stigma. That won’t be the case, however, for Yohji Yamamoto — the SS 21 Women’s collection by the Japanese couturier lacks any reference to such expressive shades either giving preference to the basic palette. More on these and other news of the week below.

D E S I G N 

Pantone launched new shade of red inspired by periods 

Red can never be too good. Favored by many women and couturiers, colour red is a pure expression that actually matches any type of person — all you need is to choose the right shade. This time Pantone Colour Institute (famous for providing complicated colour matches solutions since 1963) has discovered another hue of red and named it after women’s periods. The elaboration is a part of Seen + Heard campaign by the Swedish feminine products brand Intimina, aimed at promoting periods positivity.

‘An active and adventurous red hue, ‘period’ emboldens people who menstruate to feel proud of who they are’. (Laurie Pressman, vice-president of the Pantone Color Institute)

Besides its activist mission, the campaign also matches trends spotted in the market. Fashion industry is one from those to look up to in this matter. Red has been regular on the runways since the middle of the previous century, when then young Valentino Garavani presented his first Rosso Valentino dress in 1959. Since then red has appeared in every new collection of the brand, not to mention that the colour inspired a separate fashion line called Red Valentino. By the way, colour red has been recognized as a trend on the recent Milan Fashion Week SS 2021. Brands like D&G, Marni, and Fendi just wouldn’t pass by the gorgeous colour.

A R T 

Berlin curator received city highest honor 

Meet curator Bonaventure Soh Bejeng Ndikung, who is a director and founder of Savvy Contemporary art space and lately a holder of the prestigious Order of Merit of Berlin. The honor doesn’t come for good reason, but recognizes outstanding contributions to the State of Berlin. There can be no more than 400 living recipients of the Order according to the Berlin Constitution. In 2020 10 people, including Bonaventure Soh Bejeng Ndikung, were given the award.

Apparently, Ndikung’s talent, professional curiosity, and engagement should be applauded. On his service record are such major international projects as Documenta 14 (curator at large), Bamako Encounters photography biennial (artistic director), 2019 Venice Biennale (curator of the Finland’s pavilion), and Sonsbeek biennial in Amsterdam (again, artistic director). Bonaventure Soh Bejeng Ndikung is not only an independent art curator, but also a biotechnologist. Along with running Savvy, he heads an homonymous journal with focus on contemporary African art. 

Extensive display of Damien Hirst’s works at Newport Street Gallery 

What comes to your mind when you hear the name of Damien Hirst? Probably the legendary artwork by the artist with a scarecrow of a shark preserved in formaldehyde in a giant fish tank. Such a complicated yet entrancing title ‘The Physical Impossibility of Death in the Mind of Someone Living’ — and a great destiny. Prior commissioned by Saatchi, the artwork was sold for about $12 million dollars and soon became a symbol of Britart worldwide. ‘For the love of God’, also known as the brilliant skull, is another iconic piece by Damien Hirst. However, those artworks are far from everything created by the famous member of the YBAs

‘Art’s about life and it can’t really be about anything else. There isn’t anything else’. (Damien Hirst) 

If you are ever felt curious about Hirst’s first steps in the profession, then ‘End of a Century’ at Newport Street Gallery (London) is your choice. Opening in a week’s time, the exhibition spans Damien Hirst’s early artistic period starting from the 80s when he was still a student and culminating in the 90s with Hirst becoming a member of the famed Young British Artists group. More than 50 artworks on display will tell you about Hirst’s attitude towards such core topics as life, death, beauty, and religion. The exhibition runs from October 07, 2020—March 07, 2021. The entrance is free, but you need to book tickets in advance. 

F A S H I O N 

Meet Women’s Spring Summer 2021 collection by Yohji Yamamoto 

Our next hero Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto briskly woke up from the general pausing caused by the coronavirus and rushed to Paris to show his creations. Yamamoto presented his Femme SS 2021 collection as a part of Paris Fashion Week on October 2. The location is gorgeous — the gilded reception hall of the Parisian Hôtel de Ville. As for the fashion show, it was perfectly provided in line with Yamamoto philosophy.

One of the pioneers of avant-garde in fashion, an evangelist of Japanese design aesthetics Yohji Yamamoto remains true to the rules of his beloved deconstructivism. Elongated cardigans and jackets, long pants, V-shaped cuts, multilayer skirts, asymmetrical ruffles  —  all the outfits from the SS 2021 Ready-to-Wear collection remind of the enigmatic manner of Yamamoto, which can rightly be considered the quintessence of the present. Ah yes, speaking of the choice of colour — it’s black & white only that have been featured by the brand on the runway. To be totally honest, mostly black. 

Paris Fashion Week S/S 2021 in full swing

Paris Fashion Week or PFW for short is successfully taking place this year, having taken over from its Milan sister on September 28. It’s not even a week — a series of both online and life presentations and fashion shows will last till October 06. For obvious reasons, digital events prevail, while offline shows are available by invitation only. Unlike the Milan event, the organizers of Paris Fashion Week decided not to mix Women’s and Men’s wear on the show (this season of PFW is Femme only).

Such fashion giants as Christian Dior, Balmain, Dries Van Noten, and Kenzo have already showcased their SS 2021 collections. Fashion shows by Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Maison Margiela, and Mugler are yet to see the upcoming week. However, there are also those who are absent, and we are really looking forward to seeing them next time: Celine, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Off-White, and Lanvin. On the eastern flank also a few casualties remain: Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe have put it off for a while (fortunately, Yohji Yamamoto hasn’t).

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FUTURUM MOSCOW: FASHION SHOWS RETURN TO MOSCOW ON OCTOBER 3

By /NEWS/
FUTURUM MOSCOW: FASHION SHOWS RETURN TO MOSCOW ON OCTOBER 3

The livestreams of the shows and the process of art object creation will be available for watching from anywhere in the world.

On October 3, Futurum Moscow, an online exhibition-presentation of emerging designers and artists will take place in the capital of Russia. The event is powered by Russian Fashion Council and supported by the Fashion Fund and the Department of Entrepreneurship and Innovative Development of Moscow.

Futurum Moscow will be livestreamed at VK, as well as at the major international online platforms.

Capsule collections will be presented by SEYANA, BEENA, //cult.code, Agatha Ænter, k∅d, General VI, NOT TODAY, ГИДРОПЛАН, BLANC, ANYA KHALIULINA, MAINONA FRITZ, ST by Sonya Tikhonova, and CHERVONSKY.

Sound design for the livestream will be developed by Artificial Intelligence from MUBERT team. VFX for the streams have been designed by Stanislav Glazov, a digital artist.

“Futurum Moscow is about the future of fashion, art, and innovation. Emerging talents are the new creative drive of the metropolis, the one of crucial importance right now, amid the global stress,” emphasized Alexander Shumsky, President of Russian Fashion Council.

Artists Alexey Novikov, Maxim Karadutov, and Egor Karpenko will create Object #04-0.02, a light installation featuring many differently sized squares to be managed on a real-time basis. The many-hours-long online performance will be participated by Andrey Aznet, Sasha RTS aka Risui Tusui, whose works can be found in different countries like Austria, France and the USA, as well as Misha Vert, a multidisciplinary street artist.

For reference: Futurum Moscow is an exhibition-presentation of Moscow-based designers and artists, taking place twice a year since 2017. Throughout 5 seasons, the event has been participated by 113 designers and 20+ artists. For more details please visit our website.

For more information, please contact: Russian Fashion Council
E-mail: info@russianfashioncouncil.ru

Art Digest: September 21—27

By /ART/, /BLOG/, /NEWS/
Text

Julia Kryshevich

Art Digest: September 21—27

Does it feel like Indian summer in the place you’re now? In my place it does: the temperature is slightly above 20 degrees, the sun is shining, and the wind is like a sea breeze (though there are no yachts in sight, just cars on the jammed-up roads). The weather might be playing games with us — why, actually, when it occurs to our benefit… This time positive news only — no cancellations or postponements of the events (hopefully, most of them have been left behind), just openings, inspiring projects, and bombshells. Jump in!

P H O T O G R A P H Y

David Bowie’s friend to reveal his photographs at upcoming exhibition 

Who doesn’t know David Bowie: singer, songwriter, and actor, he managed to take over the world with his extraordinary appearance and extravagant looks (the latter rather served as a framing for the former). As a boy (back then he was called by his real name David Robert Jones) he used to make friends with Geoff MacCormack — the future vocalist and composer, better known as Warren Peace. So where am I going with that? It’s Geoff MacCormack, who is opening the next exhibition focused on Bowie’s persona at the Brighton Museum and Art Gallery (Brighton, UK).

Titled as Rock ‘n’ Roll With Me Bowie/MacCormack 1973-76, the upcoming show is set to cover the three-year tour of the two including scenes from the Trans-Siberian Railroad journey and shooting of the The Man Who Fell to Earth. The organizers also promise some intimate shots testifying close friendship between Bowie and MacCormack as well as a short movie on their trip to Moscow in 1973 for the Victory Day parade. The exhibition will last from October 17, 2020 till June 06, 2021, tickets will be available from October 02. Get ready to see a few photographs of David Bowie never made public before (while anticipating the enthralling visit, you can study MacCormack’s rich photo archive on his website).

F A S H I O N

Trans, disabled, and new face of Moschino — meet model Aaron Philip

The story of the 19-year-old Aaron Philip, on the one hand, is not to be envied (the girl was born with cerebral palsy), and yet could be viewed with admiration. In 2018 at the age of 17 Antigua-born Philip signed a contract with Elite Model Management. Since then, being a fine specimen of the minority group (black, disabled, and defying herself as a trans), she was featured in such glossies as British Vogue, Vogue Italia, and Paper Magazine, also modeling for Collina Strada. The young model seems to be conveying the message, which is quite straight and strong:

‘My future plans are to progress in my modelling while celebrating my sense of self and carving a space for my communities in the fashion world’. (Aaron Philip)

And it feels like currently she has a window of opportunity to make her statement. The celebrated Italian brand Moschino has invited Aaron Philip to star in its black-and-white Fall/Winter 2020 campaign. This comes to be the model’s solo major debut in high fashion. Congratulations, Aaron! And good luck, we’re excited about what’s coming next.

C O N T E M P O R A R Y   A R T 

Urs Fisher’s installation to add fresh light to artworks by Max Ernst and Yves Tanguy

The task: how to represent the art by the acclaimed masters from the past in a new light? The check answer: marry them with a living artist. A mesmerizing postmortal collaboration has been recently presented by the NY-based gallery Nahmad Contemporary. Famous paintings by the 20-century surrealists Max Ernst and Yves Tanguy have been set against a wallpaper installation by Urs Fischer, who is 47 now and lives in Switzerland. 

Mysterious foreboding and biomorphic forms appearing in the works by Ernst and Tanguy are perfectly complemented with Urs Fischer’s graffiti-like Gap-toothed City installation, a gloomy portrait of the Big Apple. The desolate and distant New York of today vs the wake of the first World War in Europe — a kind of unexpected intersection of feelings, isn’t it? The SUPERUNKNOWN exhibition will last at Nahmad Contemporary till November, 5. Save the date and set aside some time for a visit! 

C I N E M A 

Next movie by Wes Anderson to start filming in early 2021 

While we are still waiting for The French Dispatch release promised for so long, Wes Anderson is about to start shooting a new film. May it be a follow-up to the unfinished work (which trailer Timothée Chalamet fans would gladly see over again and again) or quite a separate story, is rather unclear: film critics say only that the plot is romantic, the chosen location is Rome, and the casting is already in full swing.  

Also some parts of the production are claimed to be live-action with a few stop-motion animated sequences mixed in. Yet having no idea what kind of a Mediterranean love story the legendary filmmaker has in mind, one can’t help but marvel at Anderson’s sense for Italian culture. Just take his short film for Prada called Castello Cavalcanti (produced by Roman Coppola, 2013). Hopefully, this time it won’t take too long to wait — at least, Wes Anderson is reported to begin filming the novelty in spring 2021.

A R T  &  T E C H 

Explore heritage of Sol LeWitt together with new Microsoft app

Sol LeWitt worked as a night receptionist at MoMA first, among his colleagues were Lucy Lippard, Dan Flavin, and Robert Ryman. Not only did he manage to become an artist himself, but also to contribute greatly to the acknowledged breakthrough that happened in the world of arts in the 60s. Father of minimalism and conceptualism, a big creator and thinker, Sol LeWitt’s figure is certainly worth attention — this time Microsoft plays tribute to the great artist announcing a new app on his life and creative biography. 

Would you like to take a 360° tour of the artist’s famous studio in Chester? Or, perhaps, you might like the idea of learning more about Sol’s artistic practice, discovering his previously unreleased interviews and coining facts about his works? Whatever you choose, the new Sol LeWitt app developed by Microsoft in collaboration with Sol LeWitt Estate (headed by the artist’s daughter) provides you such an opportunity. If you feel like going for more, try unlocking special content by Microsoft Azure Al. More details are available on the company website

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