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Sarah Fassold „Identity“

By /FASHION/, /NEWS/

Identity

Together with Kit we created a queer story about their new Identity. Kit was born on the English countryside and is just about to find his way into the creative industry, including new challenges, lots of new friends and opportunities to find out about what’s inside of him. He talks about his dreams and convictions.

Photographer: Sarah Fassold @Dysrpt Agency @sarahfassold
Model: Kit @kitcanbeinteresting

Art in Berlin: interview with the director and curator of the Helmut Newton Foundation Dr. Matthias Harder.

By /ART/, /INTERVIEW, /NEWS/

Dr. Matthias Harder, director and curator of the Helmut Newton Foundation, photo David von Becker

Text: L y u b o v  M e l n i c k o w a

Art in Berlin: interview with the director and curator of the Helmut Newton Foundation Dr. Matthias Harder.

Thank you for taking the time to interview! We are glad to welcome you to PURPLE HAZE magazine. Before asking questions about Helmut Newton Foundation, I would like to know more about you as the director and curator HNF.

Tell us a little about yourself. How did you come to be a curator?

My path was almost classical, but also playful. While still studying art history at the Free University of Berlin, I specialized in the medium of photography, wrote my master’s and doctoral theses on photographic subjects, which was still somewhat exotic at the time, in the 1990s. In 1995 I started organizing parallel photo exhibitions in Berlin at the Neue Gesellschaft für Bildende Kunst (NGBK), and I opened an off-space in Berlin for all artistic media, with a focus on installation art. In 2000 I became guest curator at the Munich Photomuseum and co-curated the retrospectives of Herbert List and Stefan Moses, which subsequently toured internationally for years, which I partly accompanied. Afterwards I directed an art association near Hamburg for almost two years, then in early 2004 I joined the Helmut Newton Foundation, which had just been founded by Newton in Berlin – and stayed until today.

Dr. Matthias Harder, director and curator of the Helmut Newton Foundation, photo David von Becker

When did you first encounter the work of Helmut Newton?

I was already interested in photography as a teenager, I took photographs myself, I had my own darkroom – and it was also the time I encountered Newton’s great works, almost automatically. Thus, I bought the two Newton publications „Portraits“ and „Big Nudes“ relatively early, of course without suspecting that I would later get to present his original photographs in many international exhibitions and write about them.

Personally, do you have a favorite work HN and why this particular work?

It’s probably hard for anyone to name favorite works by Helmut Newton, because he created so many extraordinary and iconic images and shaped our visual collective memory as few other colleagues have. Personally, of course, I know far more of Newton’s photographs than the average exhibition visitor, as I have been working intensively with his archive, which is housed in our foundation, for the past 18 years. If I had to pick just one motif from his three main genres, however, I would name the double portrait of David Lynch and Isabella Rossellini from 1988, because it psychologically congenially condenses the ambivalence of their relationship, and „Arielle after Haircut“ from 1982, because it is one of the most sensual pictures I know, and „16th Arrondissement“ a fashion photograph for French Vogue from 1975, which looks like a snapshot, but as always was perfectly composed and staged by Newton, with the two models also playing their roles magnificently.

„Someone’s photos are art. But not mine. If they are ever going to be exhibited in a gallery or museum, I don’t mind. But that’s not why I make them. I am a gun for hire!“ What do you think is the uniqueness of Helmut Newton’s works?

Newton explored the possibilities of the medium of photography like no other and transcended genre boundaries, first and foremost with his fashion stagings in timeless elegance. Innovative in all aspects of his work, Newton became famous for his spectacular photographs of clothed and unclothed women, with which he also succeeded in pushing existing taboo boundaries. The countless publications of his fashion and nude photographs in the most renowned international magazines also reflect the changes in the social role of women in the second half of the 20th century in the Western world. In Newton’s work, it is often unclear where reality ends and staging begins; everything becomes a confusing game of power and seduction. With his sometimes radical, but also subtly elegant images of women, Helmut Newton was often ahead of the zeitgeist – and at the same time helped to shape it for decades.

What brought you to the Helmut Newton Foundation?

We met in Berlin in December 2003, arranged through a mutual acquaintance, and we had a very good talk for hours. Newton told me about his plans for the foundation and, at the end of the conversation, asked me if I would like to lead the foundation as a curator – I instantly agreed.

Lobby view at the Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin, copyright Stefan Müller

HNF was established in 2004. How has the art market changed since that time? What difficulties are gallery owners, artists, photographers experiencing in Berlin at the moment?

When we opened the Museum of Photography with a double exhibition in June 2004, a very lively art and photography scene was also established in Berlin at the same time. Since then, many artists have come to the city – and stayed. But in the meantime, it has become increasingly difficult to find affordable studios or gallery space here as well, and many gallery owners have moved within the city, some have even given up entirely; the whole scene is on the move. There are still many creative niches to make and offer art, at every level, and Berlin’s blue-chip galleries like Max Hetzler, Esther Schipper, Johann König, neugerriemschneider or Sprüth Magers are still finding enough customers.

How are museums connected with the art market?

In Germany, this connection is only indirect. Of course, the most important works of art in terms of art history ultimately end up in the museum, but few institutions have a decent acquisition budget and go shopping in the renowned galleries. Instead, paintings, drawings, photographs, sculptures, or installations are often acquired by museum circles of friends and private collectors and then donated to the museum collections.

Installation view, HOLLYWOOD, Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin 2022, photo Gerhard Kassner

Berlin is considered the artistic capital of Europe. Is this really the case? What is the difference between Berlin’s art spaces and similar venues in other art cities, such as London or New York, for example?

The art and culture scene in Berlin has been incredibly diverse for years, it’s a unique, great mix of high and low. But it’s similar in Paris, London and New York, I wouldn’t want to define a ranking here.

On 2 June 2022, the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin opened its new exhibition “HOLLYWOOD” featured works by Eve Arnold, Anton Corbijn, Philip-Lorca diCorcia, Michael Dressel, George Hoyningen-Huene, Jens Liebchen, Ruth Harriet Louise, Inge Morath, Helmut Newton, Steve Schapiro, Julius Shulman, Alice Springs, and Larry Sultan.  Photographs by George Hurrell and publications by Annie Leibovitz and Ed Ruscha will also be on view in glass displays. Tell us more about the exhibition.

Hollywood is a brand and a myth, for decades an illusion machine without equal, not only when the Oscars are awarded in spring. The exhibition at the Helmut Newton Foundation traces the fascination of Hollywood. We see the stars, official and private, the villas of the rich and beautiful or film-loving tourists as well as numerous secondary motifs. Our group exhibition looks back 100 years by means of more than 200 exhibits, and yet it is highly up-to-date at the same time. It is a tribute to the slowly fading splendor of an entire era, in which cinematographic storytelling continues with photographic means.

Helmut Newton, Sigourney Weaver at Warner Bros, Burbank 1983, copyright Helmut Newton Foundation

Helmut Newton, Elizabeth Taylor, Vanity Fair, Los Angeles 1985, copyright Helmut Newton Foundation

George Hoyningen-Huene, Judy Garland, Hollywood 1945, © The George Hoyningen-Huene Estate Archives

How was the work on the preparation of the exhibition?

I love the whole developing process of such an exhibition – from the first idea, the compilation of possible photographers and their works, at first only in my head, the contact with the artists or the estates or galleries representing them, the imaginary combination of the concrete loans – up to the placing and hanging of the exhibits. Such a process usually takes more than a year – and so I am also engaged thoughtfully with the next exhibition and the one after that at the same time.

As a curator, what did you note for yourself at this exhibition?

I’m very pleased with the way the individual groups of works in our exhibition rooms harmoniously fit together, or contrast with each other in an exciting way. I have brought together the most diverse aspects in the Hollywood exhibition, from the very early vintage PR shots of the stars by Ruth Harriet Louise for MGM in the 1920s to the film set shots of „The Misfits,“ taken in 1960 by all the members of Magnum at the time, to the large-format documentation of the porn film production „The Valley“ by Larry Sultan in the late 1990s, which, as you know, is being made parallel and virtually next door to the big Hollywood productions. In addition to all the glitz and glamour of the Hollywood stars, we also encounter other dark sides of the film city Los Angeles, for example in the unsparing portraits by Michael Dressel or the photographic road trip „L.A. Crossing“ by Jens Liebchen, which also deals with the numerous homeless people in today’s metropolis.

Marilyn Monroe going over her lines for a difficult scene, The Misfits, USA 1960, copyright Eve Arnold and Magnum Photos

Why is it worth visiting the „HOLLYWOOD“ exhibition?

There has never been an exhibition like this before. The starting point and reference point for such group presentations in our museum is always the work of Helmut Newton, who portrayed numerous celebrities in Los Angeles, in and around Hollywood, for each and every one of whom Newton developed an individual scenario, thus creating magnificent psychological portraits. Anyone who is even slightly interested in cinema or the relationship between film and photography should see this exhibition. By the way, for all those for whom the way to Berlin is too far, we also offer guided VR films of our exhibitions on our website.

What are you, HNF, aiming for in the future?

I have many interesting exhibition projects in the drawer, I can promise you that; they always deal with the re-contextualization of Newton’s work. Specifically, I am preparing for the winter of 2022/23 with „Helmut Newton. Brands“, a presentation of his commercial photography; most of the motifs are completely unknown to the majority of visitors. This will be followed by a retrospective of the work of June Newton, a.k.a. Alice Springs, on the occasion of her 100th birthday in June 2023. The exhibition will also be shown in other locations, as well as the Newton exhibitions we have just organized in Belgium, Spain, Monaco, Australia, Austria, and Italy. In parallel I take care of the editing of newer and older Newton publications. Through these activities of our foundation Helmut and June Newton and their great work remain alive internationally – and I am very happy about that.

Installation view, HOLLYWOOD, Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin 2022, photo Gerhard Kassner

“HOLLYWOOD”, on view through 20 November 2022, at the Helmut Newton Foundation, Jebensstrasse 2, 10623 Berlin

LENAÏG CHATEL „COLLI DI SAN FERMO“

By /FASHION/, /NEWS/

COLLI DI SAN FERMO

PHOTOGRAPHY & ART DIRECTION / LENAÏG CHATEL
@LENAIGCHATEL
MODEL / DARIA KORCHINA @DARIAKORCHINA
@MONSTER_MGMT
STYLIST / SARA GIANFELICI @SARAGIANFELICI
HMUA / ALICE BOMBARDA @ALICEBOMBARDA_MUA
ASSISTANT / FRANCESCA LUCCHESE @FRANCESCALUCCHESE._
Tanktop: Pomanderè; Skirt: Pomanderè; Hat: Montegallo Alice Catena; Boots: Babylon;
Dress: Alberto Zambelli; Necklace: Radá; Bracelet: Bona Calvi; Ring: Bona Calvi; Boots: stylist own;
Shirt: Mukzin; Pants: Momoní; Poncho: Alberto Zambelli; Hat: Montegallo Alice Catena; Earrings: Radá; Bag: La Festin; Shoes: Lost in the echo;
Coat: Weili Zheng; Tanktop: Pomanderè; Skirt: Pomanderè; Hat: Montegallo Alice Catena; Boots: Babylon;
Shirt: Mukzin Pants: Momoní Poncho: Alberto Zambelli Hat: Montegallo Alice Catena Earrings: Radá Bag: La Festin Shoes: Lost in the echo; Dress: Alberto Zambelli Shirt: Saint Fleur Earrings: Radá Boots: Stylist own
Shirt: Cettina Bucca Skirt: Cividini Earrings: Radá Ring: Radá Bag: Lost in the echo Boots: Babylon
Dress: Alberto Zambelli Shirt: Saint Fleur Earrings: Radá Boots: Stylist own; Shirt: Mukzin Pants: Momoní Poncho: Alberto Zambelli Hat: Montegallo Alice Catena Earrings: Radá Bag: La Festin Shoes: Lost in the echo

Sixteen Young „Adaptable“

By /FASHION/, /NEWS/

Adaptable

Assistant: Chang Jiang
Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: Qin Meng Jia
Photographer: Sixteen Young @sixteen.young
Model: Hui
Creative Director: Billy Chow @billychoww
Producer: Sixteen Collection
Fashion Designer: CHOW des HOMME @chowdeshomme

Martina Mariotti „Soft Blue“

By /FASHION/, /NEWS/

SOFT BLUE

Hair Stylist: Look Total Brand @looktotalbrand
Stylist: Valeria Papa
Photographer: Martina Mariotti @martinamariottiph
Makeup Artist: Silvia Federici @silviafederici.mua
Model: Elena Sophia Montesi @euphoria fashion agency @elenasophiamontesi

Top – Archive Stylist; Dress – Missyempire

Body-Thistle & Spire

Dress – Jaquemus

Suit – Norma Kamal

Interview with artist Jan Prengel

By /ART/, /INTERVIEW, /NEWS/

Jan Prengel

Text:
L y u b o v  M e l n i c k o w a

Interview with artist Jan Prengel

Hello Jan! Thank you for taking time for that interview. How did you become photographer? Was it a long way to find yourself in art?

It’s my pleasure!
The serious interest in photography came up during a trip to Paris in 2010. I photographed urban life with a small, simple digital camera. The images printed out afterwards ignited a fire in me and my path began. I decided to study photography.
Starting with commissioned photography for companies and architects, etc., I have implemented more and more of my own projects and developed my personal style.
But I think finding yourself in art is a never-ending process. As long as you change yourself, your artistic creation will also change and redefine from time to time.

Morocco_Pastels

The main subjects of your works are modern architecture and urban spaces. Why did you choose this particular direction in photography?

I have chosen these subjects for my work because they allow you to project your own visions and feelings onto them. They provide the visual basis for it. For example If you portray people, they bring their own complex story with them, which you cannot and should not suppress for your own ideas.

Morocco_Pastels

Morocco_Pastels

Morocco_Pastels

Minimalism is a rather subjective concept. It leaves a wide space for the viewer to perceive the work. What does minimalism mean to you? Why did you choose this concept?

For me, minimalism is more than just a visual aesthetic. Minimalism has a calming psychological impact on the subconscious. It leads to internal order. Similar to the feeling after you’ve tidied up your home.
I think the greatest lasting happiness is when all energies are balanced and minimalism is a good basis for that.

Concrete_Berlin

Concrete

Who are your favorite photographers and where do you get inspiration to create?

Andreas Gursky, George Byrne, Josef Hoflehner.

My inspiration is a product of the totality of all external sensory stimuli as well as the mental processing of them. The thoughts often wander around for hours and you can only hope that something ‚tangible‘ will emerge from it, an idea that can be realised.

External influences can be documentaries such as: Gerhard Richter – Painting, or the red light of a car park that falls into my girlfriend’s apartment at night and creates a cinematic atmosphere.

Light_of_Lisbon

Graphic_Lisbon

Graphic_Lisbon

Who are your favorite photographers and where do you get inspiration to create? How has the pandemic affected your creative process in terms of goal setting? How did you deal with lockdown and limitations of last year?

The restrictions of the pandemic made me dealt with new subjects. For example I created my series Plants from Space. There has been also a strong self-reflection and personal development that will give future projects additional levels and depth.
So there has been a positive impact on my work. Nevertheless, I long for the freedom to travel with the opportunity to discover new places and to get new influences on my photography.

Blue_Theatre

Blue_Theatre

Untitled

What are your future photography plans and current projects you are working on.

I am working on projects with new concepts and themes where I include my recent thoughts and visions.
I don’t want to be more specific about projects until they are finished.
You never know what the future will bring.

www.janprengel.com

Kara Erwin „Denim GraceLand“

By /FASHION/, /NEWS/

DENIM GRACELAND

Model: Gracie Grace @New York Models, LA Models, Ludlow Scout @graciegrace_mp3
Makeup Artist: Aya Iwakami @mualook_aya
Photographer: Kara Erwin @project_on_confidence

Vest- Levis Body Suit- Zara Pants: H&M Cuffs: Cut up Levi Jeans Boots: Pretty Little Thing Watch: Models Own Bracelet: Lauren Conrad Earrings: Buffalo Exchange NYC; Earring- Lauren Conrad Denim Jacket- Vintage & Refurbished

Pants over shoulder and chest- Current/Elliot Shirt- Seek The Label Vest over Head- Vintage Earrings made by SammyLaRavia from refurbished denim Necklace- Costume Jewelry Bracelets- Lauren Conrad; Dress: Alexa Chung Earrings: Express Necklace: Nordstrom Rack Belt Bracelets: Lauren Conrad Rings: H&M Sunglasses: Model’s own

Shirt: Ralph Lauren Pants: H&M Socks: H&M Earrings: Buffalo Exchange NYC Ring by model’s face- Model’s own Rings on other hand0 H&M; Button Down Shirt: Ralph Lauren Necklace: Nordstrom Rack Corset: Urban Outfitters

Vest- Vintage Earrings- Express Necklace- Nordstrom Rack; Pants over shoulder- Current/Elliot Pants on- Citizens of Humanity Vest over knee- Vintage Shirt- Seek The Label Jewelry, Lauren Conrad, H&M

Pants over shoulder and chest- Current/Elliot Shirt- Seek The Label Vest over Head- Vintage Earrings made by SammyLaRavia from refurbished denim Necklace- Costume Jewelry Bracelets- Lauren Conrad

Interview with the designer of the brand „studio 29“

By /FASHION/, /INTERVIEW, /NEWS/

designer of the brand „Studio 29“

Text: L y u b o v  M e l n i c k o w a

Interview with the designer of the brand "studio 29"

Thank you for taking time for an interview with us! We are happy to welcome you to PURPLE HAZE magazine. Before asking questions about the brand, I would like to learn more about the designer and founder of the brand Studio 29.

Tell a little about yourself. How did your creative path begin and why did you decide to become a fashion designer?

My name is Tanya Fomicheva, I am the founder and art director of the Russian clothing brand STUDIO 29. I was born in a village with a population of just over a thousand people and have always been a creative and active child. Of course, they didn’t know anything about fashion in the village, but my mother always found special high-quality things for my sister and me and took them in installments, because there wasn’t enough money.

designer of the brand „Studio 29“

In 2008, I moved to Yekaterinburg and entered the university. I was a student, so I was constantly saving, and at some point the idea came up to start buying clothes wholesale for myself with a 50% discount and selling to someone else. That’s how my entrepreneurial activity began: I rented a room, figured out logistics, rented a cash register and opened a multi-brand store that brought a good income. Now I understand that I myself created my first store from scratch at the age of 20 as a student.

What does fashion mean in your understanding?

Fashion for me is people, atmosphere, this is what unites and makes the world around me interesting, multifaceted and deep. Every day I meet new people from the fashion world and discover creative, talented people who love their work as much as I do. Together we don’t just create clothes, we create projects that change the world around us. Fashion in recent years raises a lot of social problems, we are increasingly thinking about environmental friendliness and reasonable consumption.

backstage of Moscow Fashion Week

Tell us a little about the brand. At what point did the idea of creating a brand come up?

After moving to Moscow, I got a job as a sales manager for a Russian clothing brand. After working there for six months, I decided to quit, because I had a burnout and I realized that I didn’t want to work for someone and could try to create clothes that I would wear myself. I became interested in how to produce clothes, calculated how much money I needed to open my own brand. I launched my brand for 50 thousand rubles and told about it on my social networks.

As a rule, a clothing brand is a large team that takes part in the creation of collections. How many people are in the brand team and what are the responsibilities of the chief designer?

I hold the position of art director in the brand. Two designers work under my supervision, with whom we develop collections. Also, a large team of the production department is working on the collections: a technologist, a designer, tailors, laboratory assistants, a cutter, a confectionist and a manager for placing orders at garment factories. In general, there are about 50 people in the team now. The team is growing rapidly as the brand develops and we need more and more specialists in the staff.

creating collections

creating collections

creating collections

How would you describe the brand’s style?

We create basic clothes with interesting details, they make our clothes recognizable. We work with color and trace our own stylistic techniques. In our clothes, girls can feel free, but at the same time express their individuality and character through details and combinations.

Now many brands are for environmental friendliness and recycling. What materials does the Studio 29 brand use? Are you planning to create collections from recycled materials?

The team and I also started thinking about environmental friendliness. At the moment, we are recycling the remnants of fabrics and paper in the office, we want to start sorting garbage, all the lighting in the office has been completely replaced with LED, which allows us to reduce the amount of energy consumed. As for the production of collections from recycled materials – it’s a little more complicated. We need to find reliable suppliers and high-quality materials. We are working in this direction.

collection show at Moscow Fashion Week

How would you describe the brand’s style?

We create basic clothes with interesting details, they make our clothes recognizable. We work with color and trace our own stylistic techniques. In our clothes, girls can feel free, but at the same time express their individuality and character through details and combinations.

Who is the Studio 29 brand for? Can you describe its target audience?

Our target audience is 25-35—year-old girls who follow trends. They value the quality of materials and a good cut. They have a bright, busy life, in which there is enough space for a career and for love, they devote time to themselves, their self-development.

brand collection

Studio 29 is a well-known brand in Russia. Would you like the brand to exist on the world market in the future?

Yes, this is my dream! Today we already have many customers abroad, they love our clothes, appreciate them for their good quality and cut. But of course I would like as many girls as possible to find out about us in the world. I am sure that the brand has a wonderful future ahead of it.

How would you describe today’s fashion and what feelings does evoke in you?

Fashion in its direct sense surprises me less and less. It seems to me that styling plays a really important role now. It’s really fascinating. Today it is important to find yourself, let go of all trends, imposed stereotypes and opinions and just listen to what really responds to you personally. This is the most important thing! Fashion today is a choice.

brand collection

Brand website studio-29.ru

Tonya Matyu „70am“

By /LIFE STYLE/, /NEWS/

70am

photographer: Tonya Matyu @tonyamatyu
hair&make-up: Mai Anh @maianh.makeup
model: Amelie Stanescu @chez.amelie

make-up: Inglot, Tom ford, Dr.Hauschka, MAC; outfit: Prada rain coat and hair clips, Maria Black earrings

make-up: Inglot, Tom ford, Dr.Hauschka, MAC; outfit: Prada rain coat and hair clips, Maria Black earrings

make-up: Elf Cosmetics, Dr.Hauschka, MAC, Tom Ford; outfit: Celine earrings, Balenciaga knit

make-up: Elf Cosmetics, Dr.Hauschka, MAC, Tom Ford; outfit: Celine earrings, Balenciaga knit

make-up: Elf Cosmetics, Dr.Hauschka, MAC, Tom Ford; outfit: Celine earrings, Balenciaga knit

make-up: Fenty Beauty, Tom Ford, Dr.Hauschka, MAC; outfit: Fendi coat, MAM earring

make-up: Elf Cosmetics, Dr.Hauschka, MAC, Tom Ford; outfit: Celine earrings, Balenciaga knit

Interview with the designer of the brand „IANIS CHAMALIDY“

By /FASHION/, /INTERVIEW, /NEWS/

designer of the brand IANIS CHAMALIDY

Text: L y u b o v  M e l n i c k o w a

Interview with the designer of the brand "IANIS CHAMALIDY"

Thank you for taking time for an interview with us! We are happy to welcome you to PURPLE HAZE magazine. Before asking questions about the brand, I would like to learn more about the designer and founder of the brand Ianis Chamalidy.

Tell a little about yourself. How did your creative path begin and why did you decide to become a fashion designer?

Good afternoon! My name is IANIS CHAMALIDY, I am the founder of the IANIS CHAMALIDY brand and today I am the artistic director of the development department. I think my profession was a vocation and I unknowingly started this path. I liked making clothes because my grandmother sewed clothes. All my childhood was spent surrounded by women who try on clothes and my grandmother sewed for them. I saw it from an early age, absorbed it. My mother took me to the Mariinsky Theater, all kinds of exhibitions, museums. My childhood was spent in St. Petersburg, filled with historical and cultural heritage, and of course all this probably gave me a wonderful environment, gave me the desire to create clothes and continue the traditions of my family.

designer of the brand IANIS CHAMALIDY

What does fashion mean in your understanding?

In my understanding, fashion is a phenomenon that unites culture, economy and spiritual feelings of a person, the values of the country in which you live, his cultural heritage. All these are like reactions, they are reflected in fashion, and fashion is a product through which it is easy for a person to broadcast his world around him and very quickly convey to people the state in which he and the society around him are. Fashion is also an opportunity for me to express myself, my inner world, to find my sense of freedom. I studied not as a designer but as a fashion designer at the Stieglitz Academy and for me this is an opportunity to build my own world with its values that will completely suit me, because the world in which I live does not suit me, it is full of imperfections, lack of freedom, this world is sometimes very conflicted, it hurts my heart and I build my world through fashion, in which people are absolutely happy, they live in peace, in harmony like true Greeks because I am Greek. The theme of harmony is very important, especially since St. Petersburg in which I live is the city of the heir of the ancient world because in St. Petersburg all architecture, it celebrates the ancient world with its democracy, with its sense of freedom and aesthetics, because the Greeks have always supported aesthetics as the highest point of personal freedom.

Tell us a little about the brand. At what point did the idea of creating a brand come up?

I divide the IANIS CHAMALIDY brand into two periods. The first period was classical when I learned the canons of classical beauty, so to say, with the ancient world, lines, proportions, etc. Architecture, the history of costume, the history of cultures, which were constantly changing in the world, on a global scale of world culture. At some point I thought that I wanted to create my own language and I turned to my Greek ancestors and realized that a European costume, like, say, a little black dress from Coco Chanel, in which there is a form, it calls you to take this form and live according to the laws of this form, the mood of this form and me I wanted to go beyond this understanding. I turned to my ancestors and realized that the Greeks did not have a uniform, they were peplos, chitons. It was a garment that gave freedom to its owner to express his image through his inner world, through the harmony of the inner world and the social vector because we are always in society, we have a profession and we have a social vector along which we move and this harmony between the inner and the outer gives birth to this image of a person. The Greeks draped their dresses, they called it metamorphosis, when the shape could change, there was a lot written about it in legends. I began to create transforming clothes. I came to the concept of multi when, on the one hand, the thing is classic, strict, clean, devoid of unnecessary elements, some unnecessary details, and on the other hand, it is an avant-garde aesthetics where there are emotions, where there is a completely different reading. I combined two different phenomena: classical and avant-garde in one product and got my own concept in which I have been moving for 25 years, so many years to the brand IANIS CHAMALIDY.

As a rule, a clothing brand is a large team that takes part in the creation of collections. How many people are in the brand team and what are the
responsibilities of the chief designer?

Today I am the art director of the brand IANIS CHAMALIDY. 5 designers work with me in different directions because today we produce clothes, bags, accessories, men’s and women’s collections, underwear collections and jewelry collections. The brand also participates in theater projects, cinema, television, and much more.

In addition to designers, designers work. Their responsibilities include designing clothes according to the designer’s terms of reference. It is also very important for me to combine all the concepts. I come up with a design, volumes, proportions and give out a very clear task, probably without giving any freedom to the designer because I am a person who understands the design and how this design will be transformed, what technological details, seams, the whole technology. I decide up to how thick the threads will be, whether the stitches are made, the length of the stitch. It’s very important, it’s a whole art. All the fittings, the design of the fittings, I make the decisions myself. I really like it, to keep the creation of my product under control.

How would you describe the brand’s style?

Restrained refined refined style, aesthetically filled. It is filled with aesthetics, it is very important, it is very sensual, very relevant. It is very important for me that fashion is relevant. Today I have researched a person’s life, his speed of life, and I understand how I should create clothes that will help a person feel comfortable, stylish, pronounced in society.

Now many brands are for environmental friendliness and recycling. What materials does the Ianis Chamalidy brand use? Are you planning to create collections from recycled materials?

We used posters that hung on the streets of Italy and we recycled these banners into clothes. We had a whole direction and now we are creating fabrics that use a small amount of water for washing, less chemicals. These fabrics are very quickly erased, easy to dry. We do not use electricity for ironing with an iron. We are working very seriously on this issue and this is a whole direction in the brand.

On June 21, the Forte collection was shown as part of the Moscow Fashion Week. Tell us more about this collection. What inspired you to create it?

At fashion Week we showed the Spring Summer 23 collection, I called this collection „The Dividend“, this is a reflection on a person who has turned from an individual into a dividend. This is the philosophy of Gilles Deleuze, a French philosopher who said that in the modern world a person will turn from an individual into a dividend. This is a new person, with a new understanding, a sense of life, who lives with a different speed of life than before. All the events that have happened, they have further strengthened us in understanding that in fact, a person who has gone through a pandemic, all the cataclysms and all these experiences, he turns from an individual into a dividend, because a person from a linear world where there is a floor and a ceiling, white and black, God and the devil, everything used to be it is very clear that I have moved into a linear virtual world, where the concept of human values is shifting. He ceases to live according to the norms and concepts that were in the past, and as if the research of this person, his speed of life, in general behavior, was created in the „Dividend“ collection. The collection reflected all these issues and reasonable use and global environmental things. When we brought the collection from St. Petersburg to Moscow, we did not steam it, it did not crumple. It is made of ecological materials, it is a synthetic that does not crumple, requires little water when washing, gets dirty less and is very tactile pleasant to the body. This topic of recycling, ecology and so on, we showed all this at fashion week.

Who is the Ianis Chamalidy brand for? Can you describe its target audience?

Today I dress a lot of artists, actors, people of creative professions, of course, and business people too, but most of my clients are business people who are in their own business, very creative people who go beyond the general concepts of style and beauty.

Ianis Chamalidy is a well-known brand in Russia. Would you like the brand to exist on the world market in the future?

Of course we want the brand to exist all over the world because customers wear IANIS CHAMALIDY clothes all over the world and the understanding of the brand is more global. It is like a reaction to cultural events, to a person, a global person, a person of the world, he travels, he has no borders, a person is absolutely free, a person of the world. For such free, creative, creative people, I create a collection, of course, this is a global client.

How would you describe today’s fashion and what feelings does evoke in you?

I see fashion today as very positive because fashion is always a tool for gaining freedom and fashion today offers a large number of solutions, ranging from absurd, ridiculous and useless, but as a manifestation of creative freedom, inner endless awakening of the personality, but the other side is very reasonable and caring about the future of a person. Fashion for me today shows the triumph of a person’s creativity and it inspires me very much.

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