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Interview Pink Metaverse

By /ART/, /INTERVIEW, /NEWS/

Interview by Irina Rusinovich

Interview Pink Metaverse

Tell me about yourselves. What background are you coming from?

Daria Vankova:

I bring brands to the Metaverse. Our agency creates a strategy for transition to the virtual worlds and implements it. I also develop blockchain-related projects. I came into this field from PR, which I did for 12 years. I believe that metaverses are an amazing new communication channel for the future. We will all be there, as we once were registered on social networks.

Nadia Vesna:

I’m a digital strategist for brands and products, soft skills evangelist and people manager. During my professional sabbatical I invested my time for education, one of the fields became web3 in NFT Academy to empower my digital comms knowledge. 

Now I’m also a co-founder of the Pink Metaverse October.

Julia Tet:

I am an independent curator and producer of creative industries projects, artist for the soul, the founder of ARTTET project with the mission to unite creative minds through cultural diplomacy and artistic cooperation. Now investigating web3.0 opportunities and believe that new technologies can now really make a significant contribution to the development of the modern world.

Maria Vatset:

I am a full-stack developer who has recently taken a deep interest in WEB3 technologies from smart contracts to metaverses. Then I started working with Daria to merge marketing and web technologies. Currently, I am actively promoting the Web3 story to the masses and collaborating with large companies. In December 2022, I organized a conference in St. Petersburg focused on blockchain, cryptocurrencies, and metaverses from a scientific perspective

Nadia Vesna

Daria Vankova

Maria Vatset

Julia Tet

How did you come up with the idea of developing the PINK OCTOBER Project?

Daria:

Nadia was looking for Web 3.0 project about breast cancer. It turned out there were no such projects and I suggested we do it ourselves because this topic is very close and important to me. I’ve faced cancer in my family, my friends died of cancer, and I understand the importance of education on the subject. The more you know, the earlier you discover the disease. Knowledge increases the chances of recovery.

Nadia:

There are 3 factors. First: I’m volunteering for the local BY #againstbreastcancer fund named “Touch with hands”. Second: as a digital manager I have my private blog “Beznadezhnoe poznanie”, which makes me famous among colleagues and friends as an expert in web2 and web 3 skills (that’s why Alla contacted me). The third: I studied at NFT Academy. 

The story in short: Alla Aloe, the founder of the TWH fund, asked me to create a post for their Instagram about how Web 3.0. tools increase awareness about breast cancer as if i made it for my blog. I found nothing across all metaverses and NFT collections. Then I asked for help from my classmates from NFT Academy and found Dasha! She said: let’s do it together! Her response was crucial for the project. 

Julia:

This year I decided to devote myself to the exploration of new opportunities of web 3.0. I took a course at NFT Academy and was looking for projects where I could combine my experience in Arts and creative industries, explore how web 3.0 could work, and also how new tools could make a real useful impact for the world. My request to the Universe was heard 🙂 We started to cooperate with Dasha. I saw her post about the open call for the Pink Metaverse Exhibition, appreciated the concept, and decided to join the project.  

What were the stages of forming a team?

Daria: Masha joined the project from the very beginning, and Julia joined a week later; her experience in working with artists is important to us.

What are the main obstacles you are facing? And what are the ways to overcome them?

Daria: Lack of time. This is a charity and we all do it in our spare time, however we have great plans for this year and the project is my priority now. Perhaps another thing is people’s fear of the topic of cancer. Cancer is ugly and not Instagrammable. We try to talk about it in a way that doesn’t make people uncomfortable. But a lot of people are afraid of cancer, avoid thinking about it in every way possible.

Nadia: Huge amount of information and the sensitiveness of the topic. It was very important for me not to make mistakes, proofread all facts we communicated and project stages with experts (medical workers and volunteers).

Julia: The new field requires a full immersion and a detailed study of the specifics, and everything is changing very rapidly there, and you must always keep your hand on the pulse, sometimes move by intuition, constantly learning something new. So for me there is very often an imposter syndrome in the air. But I believe that the road takes the walker. 

Maria: The main difficulties are imperfections of the metaverses, each metaverse has its own limitations. For example, we decided to hold our first exhibition in Roblox, because there are the most active users there, but Roblox has pretty strict censorship and many of the paintings sent to the opencall didn’t pass it. In the future, we plan to hold „Pink October“ lectures already in other metaverses, since Roblox has quite a narrow functionality to realize it.

Why did you decide to go for METAVERSE? Why is it important?

Daria: There are many reasons for this. There’s a lot of hype around the Metaverse, and this is a great opportunity for us. In addition, the metaverses allow us to not be limited by space or time. We’re doing an international project. We gathered artists from different countries. Everyone who has a smartphone and internet can come to the exhibition and learn more about breast cancer. There are online events and an auction coming up. Unlike offline activities, our audience is the whole world.

Nadia: It’s a great new channel with a huge audience (mostly young). So why not? In this case the more we speak – the better.

Julia: Now the Metaverse is a whole new round of human interaction, and we are at a tipping point where the world is changing dramatically. Metaverse is not only a tool or a space where people could communicate but also a new philosophy where the main voice belongs to the community, not to the Government or the Company. And this creates a real value to act for each person. I think each project in Metaverse should have some particular valuable mission. It’s like an opportunity to build independent communes united by some particular ideas – we are moving to the future by inheriting the past. In our case it’s the idea to prevent cancer that is still a big problem in the modern world. Metaverse is also a network for young generations who are the future. 

Maria: The metaverse not only enables us to access virtual spaces from any location of the world , but it also expands our perception through immersion. With just a smartphone, users can experience this for themselves. I believe that the hype surrounding metaverses is warranted, and this technology will continue to evolve and have practical applications in the future.

How do you prioritize and delegate tasks in your project? Who does what?

Daria: Nadia is responsible for marketing, our website, community management and the main concept of the project, Julia for curation of the exhibition and events concepts, partnership development of the project, and Masha for the technical part. I am responsible for the business part. Everyone helps everyone, though. At the moment we have a targetologist and a designer. The project is growing and new tasks arise.

Julia: The structure of our project is very similar to the turquoise economy: everyone herself determines the area of her own responsibility. When issues arise, we discuss solutions as a team, and decide who is responsible for the next step. This is probably the most effective model for implementing projects in web 3.0, but here at the same time there is a serious challenge that you have to be a really high professional in your field for the project to move successfully.

Do you use any tools to plan your project?

Nadia: As a manager-freak, I used kanban and always wrote MFU after each meeting to create new tasks. But I never insisted on the team to join me, it’s my professional peculiarities  – i can’t live without a task-manager 🙂 

How do you handle conflict within your team?

Daria: I don’t think we’ve had a single conflict yet. But I think the main thing is to know who is responsible for what. Everyone has an opinion, but the final decision is made by the one whose area of responsibility is the issue.

Nadia: Trusted and open communication is the best way to negotiate. 

Julia: The best way to handle a conflict is to discuss the reasons. But it’s true, by this point we haven’t had any conflicts. And that means that everything is going right.

How is it to work remotely? What difficulties do you face?

Daria: Perhaps the main difficulty is the time zone difference. As for remotely work, the covid pandemic has taught us that an office is not necessarily a prerequisite for productive teamwork. Major companies are opening their offices in Metaverses. So it’s not a problem for us to work online. 

I think remote is the new standard. We are all accustomed to it now. Even though the time zones are different our team faced no problems. Right colleagues? 

Julia: Yes, indeed, we now have fewer and fewer distance-related constraints thanks to technology. By the way, Metaverse offers brilliant solutions on this subject. People say Metaverse is the Internet of the future, where there is no concept of remote work, because we are all in the space of the Metaverse.

Describe your experience in this industry.

Daria: I decided to create a project with Nadia, rather because Metaverses is my professional field, and I am sure that I can do good by combining my experience with the experience of the team.

Nadia: I’m not much into metaverses. That’s why I fully trust Dasha and Maria. I have the NFT collection of my 35mm film photoshoots but just as an experiment, to understand the tool and the new digital channels. 

Julia: As I have already said, so far I am more of an explorer and observer than an activist in this sphere. However, thanks to the Pink Metaverse project, a great start has already been made. Now I am also working on another project with the mission to unite people in the art industry from all over the world. But that’s another story 🙂 

Maria: I frequently engage in creating, discussing, and spending time in metaverses 🙂  But this is the first time I’m launching a charity project

What are your favorite and least favorite technology products, and why?

Daria: The word of the year is «Neural network». ChatGPT, which creates texts, and MidJorney, which creates visuals, are insanely popular right now. These are incredibly handy tools that optimize content generation processes. Neural networks also have great opportunities in metaverses. Instead of having a real person in their avatar interacting with visitors to a virtual bank or boutique there, it will be possible to program a self-learning bot that will take over the main negotiations. And while today a chatbot is most often a small set of standard questions and answers, in the future its possibilities are limitless.

How do you think technology advances will impact the art industry?

Daria: First of all, digital art is now as valued as classical art. It is also collected, exhibited, sold. Secondly, Artificial Intelligence is coming to the aid of artists and designers. Contrary to popular opinion, I don’t think that Ai can replace creators. Rather, it will become a great tool in their hands.

Julia: I think that technology will affect the development of the Art industry only in a positive way and in no way will replace humanity in this sphere. There is a great deal of discourse about this aspect right now. But it’s all about our own choices: technology can be used as an additional tool to create, promote and sell Arts, as well to make the industry more open and diverse. Technology could help to solve some operational processes regarding Arts, thereby giving creators more freedom concerning the creative process itself. The question is how creators and managers could use this opportunity and manage the creative process with the involvement of technology.

Maria: In my opinion, technology will shape the concept of how art will be created, transmitted and perceived in the future. Artificial intelligence will be used more often to create paintings, blockchain to authenticate art, and metaverse to expand the perception of paintings at exhibitions.

What are the marks of a successful project do you think?

Daria: Involvement of people

Nadia: Visible and strict set of goals which are matters for each member of the team. It helps to construct the synergy within the team. While the team is the key success of each project. 

Julia: Successful achievement of the project’s mission and following the plan, positive feedback from the people involved, project sustainability. 

Maria: Effective resource management. In our case, resources mean people and technologies.

Tell us the main dates of your project so our followers will keep them in mind!

Daria: Until January 30, there will be a sale of the New Year NFT collection, the proceeds of which we will donate to a charity project from Minsk. In February, we have open lectures in the Metaverse. In October there will be a big charity auction. You can find the project’s Roadmap on our website.

Subscribe to official project sources:
Instagram: @pinkmetaverseoctober
Facebook: @Pink Metaverse October
Twitter: @pinkoctobermeta
Discord: https://discord.gg/zHh3hbQH 

project site: https://pinkmetaverseoctober.com/
visit Pink Metaverse Exhibition in Roblox:
https://www.roblox.com/games/11826168178/Pink-Metaverse-October 

link to Pink Metaverse Collection:
buy charity NFT till 30th of January!
https://opensea.io/collection/pinkxmas

Interview with gallery owner and founder Robert Morat Galerie

By /ART/, /INTERVIEW, /NEWS/
Interview with gallery owner and founder Robert Morat Galerie

Thank you for taking the time to interview! We are glad to welcome you to PURPLE HAZE magazine. Before asking questions about gallery, I would like to know more about you as the director and founder of the gallery.

Tell us a little about yourself. At what point did you become interested in photography? What inspired you to create a gallery? 

There certainly were numerous factors that led me to open a gallery. First off, certainly, my upbringing. My parents are enthusiastic art-collectors, their collection is institutionalized in a foundation and publicly accessible in my hometown of Freiburg. I grew up in a constant conversation about art, surrounded by art, and in a very open household that always hosted guests, artists, curators, musicians, thinkers, publishers.

Robert Morat, Photo by: Roger Eberhard

I then went on to study at Hamburg University to become a journalist. Part of my studies was the History of Art, and it is there that I first learned about the history of photography and started reading photography theory. Photography was the one thing my parents did not collect, so naturally, I took an interest. Maybe because it was a field that allowed me to make my own discoveries. I started to look at photographic prints and eventually started collecting in a very modest and humble way. I noticed at the time – we are talking about the late 1990ies and the early 2000s – that photography galleries in Germany mostly offered vintage, black&white material. In order to look at young, emerging contemporary work, I had to travel.
In the following years, I met a lot of photographers who would become friends. I worked as an editor for different magazines and newspapers and ended up working for TV. That was a frustrating experience. I found myself in a dead-end. It was 2003, I was 32, living and working in Hamburg, when I decided to follow my passion for photography and I opened the gallery in spring 2004. In the beginning, I envisioned more of an exhibition space than a commercial gallery. I started exhibiting the work of friends in a small former storefront. But the shows we curated eventually received more and more interest and I started to professionalize and commercialize the program. Three years later, in 2007 we had our first artfair participation in Miami. Just two years later, 2009, we had our first participation in PARIS PHOTO and have been returning as exhibitors every year since then. In 2015, in order to meet a more international audience in our own space, I decided to move the gallery to Berlin.

Please tell us about the concept of the gallery. How does the selection of photo artists take place? How was the visual language of the gallery created? 

As I mentioned before, at the time we started, most photography galleries in Germany offered vintage, black&white material. I wanted to create a program that focused on young, emerging positions in contemporary photography, a space for discoveries. The program very much followed my own interest. I was never interested in photography as visual design, we never showed fashion photography for example, or digitally created imagery. My interest in photography comes from looking at people like William Eggleston, Lee Friedlander, Steven Shore or Robert Adams. Other key figures that formed my vision were Arno Fischer and Sibylle Bergemann. There’s a famous quote by Arno Fischer: „A picture of a bus stop must be more than a picture of a bus stop!“ That is to say, my program was always interested in the photographic perception of the world, but also in the author’s commentary. So the program, I would say, it’s very much based on documentary photography. But especially since moving the gallery to Berlin, I have found myself opening up to photography‘s conversation with other media. Some of the artists we work with now create collages, drawings, sculptures – today I consider the gallery to be more a gallery for contemporary art than a pure photography gallery.

When selecting authors, do you focus on personal preferences or is it an understanding of collectors‘ requests? Is it possible to combine both? 

I certainly hope that it is possible to combine the two! I would like to think that after almost 20 years of running the gallery, collectors and clients have learned to trust our judgment when selecting a new position. Gallery work to me was always more about sharing my enthusiasm for an artist then trying to meet the market’s requests.

Bill Jacobson and Giorgio Morandi „Photographs and Drawings“ at the Berlin gallery space, spring 2018. Photo by: Roger Eberhard

Bill Jacobson and Giorgio Morandi „Photographs and Drawings“ at the Berlin gallery space, spring 2018. Photo by: Roger Eberhard

At what point, in your opinion, was the adoption of photography as an art form? 

Photography has always allowed not only for the realistic description of reality, but also for it’s subjective, creative interpretation. Ever since the surrealist Man Ray put the sound holes of a Cello on to the back of his female model in 1924, photography has been an art form. MoMA started collecting photography in 1930. Photography has always been an art form. Just because there are people that have not caught up, doesn’t change the fact.

What influence has photography had on the development of modern art? 

When the French painter Eugène Delacroix saw the first heliography in the late 1820ies, he famously exclaimed: This is the end of Art! History has proven him wrong. On the contrary, the accurate representation of the world through photography has freed painting from the need to be realistic. Film, developed from photography, has become the most important art form of the modern age.  So the influence of photography not only on Modern Art, but on the way we communicate today, can not be overstated.

Solo Booth for Hannah Hughes at PHOTO LONDON 2022

Robert Morat Galerie was established in 2004. How has the art market changed since that time? What difficulties are gallery owners, artists, photographers experiencing in Berlin at the moment? 

The art market has always been a very volatile market, following economic cycles. When we started out in 2004, the stars of the Becher School, Andreas Gursky, Thomas Ruff, Thomas Struth, Candida Höfer broke through internationally. Contemporary photography out of German was in high demand all of a sudden – we were lucky to start out in that environment. The years 2005, 2006, 2007 saw a strong high point of international art dealing. But just 12 months later, November 2008 saw the Lehman Brother’s crash and the international fiscal crises that the implosion of the American housing market caused. The following years, 2009, 2010, were difficult, many galleries closed, the market was down. But eventually it picked up again. Gallery owners and artists always had to deal with that volatility. Or take last year, we had just come out of two pandemic years, the market just started to pick up when Russia started it’s criminal, shameful war in Ukraine. It felt like somebody pulled the plug. All sales stopped on February 24. What followed was another difficult season. But then in fall, things came around, the market picked uo again, the winter season was extremely successful. It feels like a rollercoaster ride mostly.

Works by Jessica Backhaus, Hannah Hughes and Bill Jacobson at our booth at PARIS PHOTO 2022

Berlin is considered the artistic capital of Europe. Is this really the case? What is the difference between Berlin’s art spaces and similar venues in other art cities, such as London or New York, for example?
Besides these global economic influences on the market, the situation here in Berlin is today mostly difficult because of the real estate market. Berlin built it’s reputation as an international center for the arts mostly because of the artists who came here to work because they were able to find affordable studio spaces here. The same is true for all the new interesting exhibition spaces and gallery projects. Real estate prices that by now have reached the levels of Paris or London make that more and more difficult.
On January 13, the Robert Morat Galerie hosted the opening of the exhibition “Artefakte und Modelle” by Lena Amuat und Zoë Meyer. Please tell us more about the exhibition.

Lena Amuat & Zoë Meyer are a Swiss artist duo, the latest addition to the gallery program. „Artefakte und Modelle“ is their first exhibition with us, a series of still life studies. The project is a collection of objects that embody the human struggle for knowledge. Over twelve years in the making and numbering hundreds of images, the project inventories the models, artifacts, natural specimen and teaching objects that the two women have unearthed traveling to search through the archives and collections of European universities and natural history museums. Dutch art historian Flor Linckens calls it “a series of enigmatic and decontextualized objects that are given a new life” and in her review of the work she writes: “Elements from science, advertising, religion, art and nature are isolated and combined effortlessly in what could be described as encyclopedic cabinets of curiosities. In the work of Amuat and Meyer, the past and the present enter into a new relationship.”

Lena Amuat & Zoë Meyer, Mathematisches Modell #138, 2017

What are you, Robert Morat Galerie, aiming for in the future? 

To stay on board the rollercoaster a little longer!

The exhibition “Artefakte und Modelle” by Lena Amuat und Zoë Meyer will be held at the Robert Morat Gallerie until February 25, 2023.

Interview with photographer Nadine Dinter

By /ART/, /INTERVIEW, /NEWS/

Text: I r i n a  R u s i n o v i c h

Interview with photographer Nadine Dinter
For the people who don’t yet know you: who are you, and what do you do?
My name is Nadine Dinter. I work as a professional publicist in the fields of art & culture, specializing in the promotion of photography (exhibitions, books, and artists in general). Apart from this main occupation, I am a writer, curator, and photographer. It’s all about photography – that is what brings it all together.
What work do you most enjoy doing?
Working on the creative side – writing, taking photos, and curating. That creates a sweet flow, a different way of thinking and the possibility to activate another part of the brain, compared to organizing, structuring, and strategically planning other people’s projects and creative output, such as photographs or books. I very much enjoy both sides, as they beautifully complement each other.
What type of art do you most identify with?
Definitely photography, but I also love painting, sculpture, and installation art.

Benjamin Kühnemund, Berlin, 2022, copyright Nadine Dinter, courtesy HAZEGALLERY

Ben, Berlin 2022, copyright Nadine Dinter, courtesy HAZEGALLERY

Traegi, Cologne, 2022, copyright Nadine Dinter, courtesy HAZEGALLERY

How did you come up with the idea for the exhibition?
In 2012, I curated a photo show for the New York artist duo The Hilton Brothers. One of them was Christopher Makos, a longtime friend of Andy Warhol who documented his life in photographs. Of course, during our work together and in most of his interviews, he spoke about Andy Warhol. Part of his travel crew was the former erotic art model Benjamin Godfre, with whom I clicked pretty quickly, chatting about LA, photography, and Warhol. We especially loved Warhol’s series Torsos and decided to take some pictures together. The rest is history.

What theme do you pursue in this exhibition?
In my show Torso Reloaded, I explore male nudes and how the current generation stages and adorns itself.Over the course of four months (January to April 2022), I photographed six young men, asking them to take poses that seemed typical for their personality and profession. They include a slick skater, a professional model,a wrestler, a photographer, and a fitness trainer. The images I took of Godfre from 2012 are also included in the show.

What is your favorite piece of artwork in the exhibition, and why?
That’s impossible for me to say – I love them all – and each one is special in its own way.

How could you tell when this series was finished?
It was finished this spring, in April 2022.

Do you have a funny or interesting story from your work on this project?
One of the 2022 models has the logo of my all-time favorite band HIM, tattooed above his crotch – it was a nice coincidence, as I discovered that only after we started to shoot. You can see some of those images in the show, too.

Benjamin Godfre, 1, Berlin, 2012, copyright Nadine Dinter, courtesy HAZEGALLERY

Eric, Berlin 2022, copyright Nadine Dinter, courtesy HAZEGALLERY

Alexander Schuktuew, Berlin 2022, copyright Nadine Dinter, courtesy HAZEGALLERY

Where can I go to see more of your work?
Most works, also from other series plus all my travel impressions, can be found on my IG account @dinterphotography. I also recently created a little website with more information about myself, my photography background, and the different series. Feel free to visit www.dinterphotography.de

Art in Berlin: interview with the director and curator of the Helmut Newton Foundation Dr. Matthias Harder.

By /ART/, /INTERVIEW, /NEWS/

Dr. Matthias Harder, director and curator of the Helmut Newton Foundation, photo David von Becker

Text: L y u b o v  M e l n i c k o w a

Art in Berlin: interview with the director and curator of the Helmut Newton Foundation Dr. Matthias Harder.

Thank you for taking the time to interview! We are glad to welcome you to PURPLE HAZE magazine. Before asking questions about Helmut Newton Foundation, I would like to know more about you as the director and curator HNF.

Tell us a little about yourself. How did you come to be a curator?

My path was almost classical, but also playful. While still studying art history at the Free University of Berlin, I specialized in the medium of photography, wrote my master’s and doctoral theses on photographic subjects, which was still somewhat exotic at the time, in the 1990s. In 1995 I started organizing parallel photo exhibitions in Berlin at the Neue Gesellschaft für Bildende Kunst (NGBK), and I opened an off-space in Berlin for all artistic media, with a focus on installation art. In 2000 I became guest curator at the Munich Photomuseum and co-curated the retrospectives of Herbert List and Stefan Moses, which subsequently toured internationally for years, which I partly accompanied. Afterwards I directed an art association near Hamburg for almost two years, then in early 2004 I joined the Helmut Newton Foundation, which had just been founded by Newton in Berlin – and stayed until today.

Dr. Matthias Harder, director and curator of the Helmut Newton Foundation, photo David von Becker

When did you first encounter the work of Helmut Newton?

I was already interested in photography as a teenager, I took photographs myself, I had my own darkroom – and it was also the time I encountered Newton’s great works, almost automatically. Thus, I bought the two Newton publications „Portraits“ and „Big Nudes“ relatively early, of course without suspecting that I would later get to present his original photographs in many international exhibitions and write about them.

Personally, do you have a favorite work HN and why this particular work?

It’s probably hard for anyone to name favorite works by Helmut Newton, because he created so many extraordinary and iconic images and shaped our visual collective memory as few other colleagues have. Personally, of course, I know far more of Newton’s photographs than the average exhibition visitor, as I have been working intensively with his archive, which is housed in our foundation, for the past 18 years. If I had to pick just one motif from his three main genres, however, I would name the double portrait of David Lynch and Isabella Rossellini from 1988, because it psychologically congenially condenses the ambivalence of their relationship, and „Arielle after Haircut“ from 1982, because it is one of the most sensual pictures I know, and „16th Arrondissement“ a fashion photograph for French Vogue from 1975, which looks like a snapshot, but as always was perfectly composed and staged by Newton, with the two models also playing their roles magnificently.

„Someone’s photos are art. But not mine. If they are ever going to be exhibited in a gallery or museum, I don’t mind. But that’s not why I make them. I am a gun for hire!“ What do you think is the uniqueness of Helmut Newton’s works?

Newton explored the possibilities of the medium of photography like no other and transcended genre boundaries, first and foremost with his fashion stagings in timeless elegance. Innovative in all aspects of his work, Newton became famous for his spectacular photographs of clothed and unclothed women, with which he also succeeded in pushing existing taboo boundaries. The countless publications of his fashion and nude photographs in the most renowned international magazines also reflect the changes in the social role of women in the second half of the 20th century in the Western world. In Newton’s work, it is often unclear where reality ends and staging begins; everything becomes a confusing game of power and seduction. With his sometimes radical, but also subtly elegant images of women, Helmut Newton was often ahead of the zeitgeist – and at the same time helped to shape it for decades.

What brought you to the Helmut Newton Foundation?

We met in Berlin in December 2003, arranged through a mutual acquaintance, and we had a very good talk for hours. Newton told me about his plans for the foundation and, at the end of the conversation, asked me if I would like to lead the foundation as a curator – I instantly agreed.

Lobby view at the Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin, copyright Stefan Müller

HNF was established in 2004. How has the art market changed since that time? What difficulties are gallery owners, artists, photographers experiencing in Berlin at the moment?

When we opened the Museum of Photography with a double exhibition in June 2004, a very lively art and photography scene was also established in Berlin at the same time. Since then, many artists have come to the city – and stayed. But in the meantime, it has become increasingly difficult to find affordable studios or gallery space here as well, and many gallery owners have moved within the city, some have even given up entirely; the whole scene is on the move. There are still many creative niches to make and offer art, at every level, and Berlin’s blue-chip galleries like Max Hetzler, Esther Schipper, Johann König, neugerriemschneider or Sprüth Magers are still finding enough customers.

How are museums connected with the art market?

In Germany, this connection is only indirect. Of course, the most important works of art in terms of art history ultimately end up in the museum, but few institutions have a decent acquisition budget and go shopping in the renowned galleries. Instead, paintings, drawings, photographs, sculptures, or installations are often acquired by museum circles of friends and private collectors and then donated to the museum collections.

Installation view, HOLLYWOOD, Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin 2022, photo Gerhard Kassner

Berlin is considered the artistic capital of Europe. Is this really the case? What is the difference between Berlin’s art spaces and similar venues in other art cities, such as London or New York, for example?

The art and culture scene in Berlin has been incredibly diverse for years, it’s a unique, great mix of high and low. But it’s similar in Paris, London and New York, I wouldn’t want to define a ranking here.

On 2 June 2022, the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin opened its new exhibition “HOLLYWOOD” featured works by Eve Arnold, Anton Corbijn, Philip-Lorca diCorcia, Michael Dressel, George Hoyningen-Huene, Jens Liebchen, Ruth Harriet Louise, Inge Morath, Helmut Newton, Steve Schapiro, Julius Shulman, Alice Springs, and Larry Sultan.  Photographs by George Hurrell and publications by Annie Leibovitz and Ed Ruscha will also be on view in glass displays. Tell us more about the exhibition.

Hollywood is a brand and a myth, for decades an illusion machine without equal, not only when the Oscars are awarded in spring. The exhibition at the Helmut Newton Foundation traces the fascination of Hollywood. We see the stars, official and private, the villas of the rich and beautiful or film-loving tourists as well as numerous secondary motifs. Our group exhibition looks back 100 years by means of more than 200 exhibits, and yet it is highly up-to-date at the same time. It is a tribute to the slowly fading splendor of an entire era, in which cinematographic storytelling continues with photographic means.

Helmut Newton, Sigourney Weaver at Warner Bros, Burbank 1983, copyright Helmut Newton Foundation

Helmut Newton, Elizabeth Taylor, Vanity Fair, Los Angeles 1985, copyright Helmut Newton Foundation

George Hoyningen-Huene, Judy Garland, Hollywood 1945, © The George Hoyningen-Huene Estate Archives

How was the work on the preparation of the exhibition?

I love the whole developing process of such an exhibition – from the first idea, the compilation of possible photographers and their works, at first only in my head, the contact with the artists or the estates or galleries representing them, the imaginary combination of the concrete loans – up to the placing and hanging of the exhibits. Such a process usually takes more than a year – and so I am also engaged thoughtfully with the next exhibition and the one after that at the same time.

As a curator, what did you note for yourself at this exhibition?

I’m very pleased with the way the individual groups of works in our exhibition rooms harmoniously fit together, or contrast with each other in an exciting way. I have brought together the most diverse aspects in the Hollywood exhibition, from the very early vintage PR shots of the stars by Ruth Harriet Louise for MGM in the 1920s to the film set shots of „The Misfits,“ taken in 1960 by all the members of Magnum at the time, to the large-format documentation of the porn film production „The Valley“ by Larry Sultan in the late 1990s, which, as you know, is being made parallel and virtually next door to the big Hollywood productions. In addition to all the glitz and glamour of the Hollywood stars, we also encounter other dark sides of the film city Los Angeles, for example in the unsparing portraits by Michael Dressel or the photographic road trip „L.A. Crossing“ by Jens Liebchen, which also deals with the numerous homeless people in today’s metropolis.

Marilyn Monroe going over her lines for a difficult scene, The Misfits, USA 1960, copyright Eve Arnold and Magnum Photos

Why is it worth visiting the „HOLLYWOOD“ exhibition?

There has never been an exhibition like this before. The starting point and reference point for such group presentations in our museum is always the work of Helmut Newton, who portrayed numerous celebrities in Los Angeles, in and around Hollywood, for each and every one of whom Newton developed an individual scenario, thus creating magnificent psychological portraits. Anyone who is even slightly interested in cinema or the relationship between film and photography should see this exhibition. By the way, for all those for whom the way to Berlin is too far, we also offer guided VR films of our exhibitions on our website.

What are you, HNF, aiming for in the future?

I have many interesting exhibition projects in the drawer, I can promise you that; they always deal with the re-contextualization of Newton’s work. Specifically, I am preparing for the winter of 2022/23 with „Helmut Newton. Brands“, a presentation of his commercial photography; most of the motifs are completely unknown to the majority of visitors. This will be followed by a retrospective of the work of June Newton, a.k.a. Alice Springs, on the occasion of her 100th birthday in June 2023. The exhibition will also be shown in other locations, as well as the Newton exhibitions we have just organized in Belgium, Spain, Monaco, Australia, Austria, and Italy. In parallel I take care of the editing of newer and older Newton publications. Through these activities of our foundation Helmut and June Newton and their great work remain alive internationally – and I am very happy about that.

Installation view, HOLLYWOOD, Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin 2022, photo Gerhard Kassner

“HOLLYWOOD”, on view through 20 November 2022, at the Helmut Newton Foundation, Jebensstrasse 2, 10623 Berlin

Interview with artist Jan Prengel

By /ART/, /INTERVIEW, /NEWS/

Jan Prengel

Text:
L y u b o v  M e l n i c k o w a

Interview with artist Jan Prengel

Hello Jan! Thank you for taking time for that interview. How did you become photographer? Was it a long way to find yourself in art?

It’s my pleasure!
The serious interest in photography came up during a trip to Paris in 2010. I photographed urban life with a small, simple digital camera. The images printed out afterwards ignited a fire in me and my path began. I decided to study photography.
Starting with commissioned photography for companies and architects, etc., I have implemented more and more of my own projects and developed my personal style.
But I think finding yourself in art is a never-ending process. As long as you change yourself, your artistic creation will also change and redefine from time to time.

Morocco_Pastels

The main subjects of your works are modern architecture and urban spaces. Why did you choose this particular direction in photography?

I have chosen these subjects for my work because they allow you to project your own visions and feelings onto them. They provide the visual basis for it. For example If you portray people, they bring their own complex story with them, which you cannot and should not suppress for your own ideas.

Morocco_Pastels

Morocco_Pastels

Morocco_Pastels

Minimalism is a rather subjective concept. It leaves a wide space for the viewer to perceive the work. What does minimalism mean to you? Why did you choose this concept?

For me, minimalism is more than just a visual aesthetic. Minimalism has a calming psychological impact on the subconscious. It leads to internal order. Similar to the feeling after you’ve tidied up your home.
I think the greatest lasting happiness is when all energies are balanced and minimalism is a good basis for that.

Concrete_Berlin

Concrete

Who are your favorite photographers and where do you get inspiration to create?

Andreas Gursky, George Byrne, Josef Hoflehner.

My inspiration is a product of the totality of all external sensory stimuli as well as the mental processing of them. The thoughts often wander around for hours and you can only hope that something ‚tangible‘ will emerge from it, an idea that can be realised.

External influences can be documentaries such as: Gerhard Richter – Painting, or the red light of a car park that falls into my girlfriend’s apartment at night and creates a cinematic atmosphere.

Light_of_Lisbon

Graphic_Lisbon

Graphic_Lisbon

Who are your favorite photographers and where do you get inspiration to create? How has the pandemic affected your creative process in terms of goal setting? How did you deal with lockdown and limitations of last year?

The restrictions of the pandemic made me dealt with new subjects. For example I created my series Plants from Space. There has been also a strong self-reflection and personal development that will give future projects additional levels and depth.
So there has been a positive impact on my work. Nevertheless, I long for the freedom to travel with the opportunity to discover new places and to get new influences on my photography.

Blue_Theatre

Blue_Theatre

Untitled

What are your future photography plans and current projects you are working on.

I am working on projects with new concepts and themes where I include my recent thoughts and visions.
I don’t want to be more specific about projects until they are finished.
You never know what the future will bring.

www.janprengel.com

Interview with the designer of the brand „studio 29“

By /FASHION/, /INTERVIEW, /NEWS/

designer of the brand „Studio 29“

Text: L y u b o v  M e l n i c k o w a

Interview with the designer of the brand "studio 29"

Thank you for taking time for an interview with us! We are happy to welcome you to PURPLE HAZE magazine. Before asking questions about the brand, I would like to learn more about the designer and founder of the brand Studio 29.

Tell a little about yourself. How did your creative path begin and why did you decide to become a fashion designer?

My name is Tanya Fomicheva, I am the founder and art director of the Russian clothing brand STUDIO 29. I was born in a village with a population of just over a thousand people and have always been a creative and active child. Of course, they didn’t know anything about fashion in the village, but my mother always found special high-quality things for my sister and me and took them in installments, because there wasn’t enough money.

designer of the brand „Studio 29“

In 2008, I moved to Yekaterinburg and entered the university. I was a student, so I was constantly saving, and at some point the idea came up to start buying clothes wholesale for myself with a 50% discount and selling to someone else. That’s how my entrepreneurial activity began: I rented a room, figured out logistics, rented a cash register and opened a multi-brand store that brought a good income. Now I understand that I myself created my first store from scratch at the age of 20 as a student.

What does fashion mean in your understanding?

Fashion for me is people, atmosphere, this is what unites and makes the world around me interesting, multifaceted and deep. Every day I meet new people from the fashion world and discover creative, talented people who love their work as much as I do. Together we don’t just create clothes, we create projects that change the world around us. Fashion in recent years raises a lot of social problems, we are increasingly thinking about environmental friendliness and reasonable consumption.

backstage of Moscow Fashion Week

Tell us a little about the brand. At what point did the idea of creating a brand come up?

After moving to Moscow, I got a job as a sales manager for a Russian clothing brand. After working there for six months, I decided to quit, because I had a burnout and I realized that I didn’t want to work for someone and could try to create clothes that I would wear myself. I became interested in how to produce clothes, calculated how much money I needed to open my own brand. I launched my brand for 50 thousand rubles and told about it on my social networks.

As a rule, a clothing brand is a large team that takes part in the creation of collections. How many people are in the brand team and what are the responsibilities of the chief designer?

I hold the position of art director in the brand. Two designers work under my supervision, with whom we develop collections. Also, a large team of the production department is working on the collections: a technologist, a designer, tailors, laboratory assistants, a cutter, a confectionist and a manager for placing orders at garment factories. In general, there are about 50 people in the team now. The team is growing rapidly as the brand develops and we need more and more specialists in the staff.

creating collections

creating collections

creating collections

How would you describe the brand’s style?

We create basic clothes with interesting details, they make our clothes recognizable. We work with color and trace our own stylistic techniques. In our clothes, girls can feel free, but at the same time express their individuality and character through details and combinations.

Now many brands are for environmental friendliness and recycling. What materials does the Studio 29 brand use? Are you planning to create collections from recycled materials?

The team and I also started thinking about environmental friendliness. At the moment, we are recycling the remnants of fabrics and paper in the office, we want to start sorting garbage, all the lighting in the office has been completely replaced with LED, which allows us to reduce the amount of energy consumed. As for the production of collections from recycled materials – it’s a little more complicated. We need to find reliable suppliers and high-quality materials. We are working in this direction.

collection show at Moscow Fashion Week

How would you describe the brand’s style?

We create basic clothes with interesting details, they make our clothes recognizable. We work with color and trace our own stylistic techniques. In our clothes, girls can feel free, but at the same time express their individuality and character through details and combinations.

Who is the Studio 29 brand for? Can you describe its target audience?

Our target audience is 25-35—year-old girls who follow trends. They value the quality of materials and a good cut. They have a bright, busy life, in which there is enough space for a career and for love, they devote time to themselves, their self-development.

brand collection

Studio 29 is a well-known brand in Russia. Would you like the brand to exist on the world market in the future?

Yes, this is my dream! Today we already have many customers abroad, they love our clothes, appreciate them for their good quality and cut. But of course I would like as many girls as possible to find out about us in the world. I am sure that the brand has a wonderful future ahead of it.

How would you describe today’s fashion and what feelings does evoke in you?

Fashion in its direct sense surprises me less and less. It seems to me that styling plays a really important role now. It’s really fascinating. Today it is important to find yourself, let go of all trends, imposed stereotypes and opinions and just listen to what really responds to you personally. This is the most important thing! Fashion today is a choice.

brand collection

Brand website studio-29.ru

Interview with the designer of the brand „IANIS CHAMALIDY“

By /FASHION/, /INTERVIEW, /NEWS/

designer of the brand IANIS CHAMALIDY

Text: L y u b o v  M e l n i c k o w a

Interview with the designer of the brand "IANIS CHAMALIDY"

Thank you for taking time for an interview with us! We are happy to welcome you to PURPLE HAZE magazine. Before asking questions about the brand, I would like to learn more about the designer and founder of the brand Ianis Chamalidy.

Tell a little about yourself. How did your creative path begin and why did you decide to become a fashion designer?

Good afternoon! My name is IANIS CHAMALIDY, I am the founder of the IANIS CHAMALIDY brand and today I am the artistic director of the development department. I think my profession was a vocation and I unknowingly started this path. I liked making clothes because my grandmother sewed clothes. All my childhood was spent surrounded by women who try on clothes and my grandmother sewed for them. I saw it from an early age, absorbed it. My mother took me to the Mariinsky Theater, all kinds of exhibitions, museums. My childhood was spent in St. Petersburg, filled with historical and cultural heritage, and of course all this probably gave me a wonderful environment, gave me the desire to create clothes and continue the traditions of my family.

designer of the brand IANIS CHAMALIDY

What does fashion mean in your understanding?

In my understanding, fashion is a phenomenon that unites culture, economy and spiritual feelings of a person, the values of the country in which you live, his cultural heritage. All these are like reactions, they are reflected in fashion, and fashion is a product through which it is easy for a person to broadcast his world around him and very quickly convey to people the state in which he and the society around him are. Fashion is also an opportunity for me to express myself, my inner world, to find my sense of freedom. I studied not as a designer but as a fashion designer at the Stieglitz Academy and for me this is an opportunity to build my own world with its values that will completely suit me, because the world in which I live does not suit me, it is full of imperfections, lack of freedom, this world is sometimes very conflicted, it hurts my heart and I build my world through fashion, in which people are absolutely happy, they live in peace, in harmony like true Greeks because I am Greek. The theme of harmony is very important, especially since St. Petersburg in which I live is the city of the heir of the ancient world because in St. Petersburg all architecture, it celebrates the ancient world with its democracy, with its sense of freedom and aesthetics, because the Greeks have always supported aesthetics as the highest point of personal freedom.

Tell us a little about the brand. At what point did the idea of creating a brand come up?

I divide the IANIS CHAMALIDY brand into two periods. The first period was classical when I learned the canons of classical beauty, so to say, with the ancient world, lines, proportions, etc. Architecture, the history of costume, the history of cultures, which were constantly changing in the world, on a global scale of world culture. At some point I thought that I wanted to create my own language and I turned to my Greek ancestors and realized that a European costume, like, say, a little black dress from Coco Chanel, in which there is a form, it calls you to take this form and live according to the laws of this form, the mood of this form and me I wanted to go beyond this understanding. I turned to my ancestors and realized that the Greeks did not have a uniform, they were peplos, chitons. It was a garment that gave freedom to its owner to express his image through his inner world, through the harmony of the inner world and the social vector because we are always in society, we have a profession and we have a social vector along which we move and this harmony between the inner and the outer gives birth to this image of a person. The Greeks draped their dresses, they called it metamorphosis, when the shape could change, there was a lot written about it in legends. I began to create transforming clothes. I came to the concept of multi when, on the one hand, the thing is classic, strict, clean, devoid of unnecessary elements, some unnecessary details, and on the other hand, it is an avant-garde aesthetics where there are emotions, where there is a completely different reading. I combined two different phenomena: classical and avant-garde in one product and got my own concept in which I have been moving for 25 years, so many years to the brand IANIS CHAMALIDY.

As a rule, a clothing brand is a large team that takes part in the creation of collections. How many people are in the brand team and what are the
responsibilities of the chief designer?

Today I am the art director of the brand IANIS CHAMALIDY. 5 designers work with me in different directions because today we produce clothes, bags, accessories, men’s and women’s collections, underwear collections and jewelry collections. The brand also participates in theater projects, cinema, television, and much more.

In addition to designers, designers work. Their responsibilities include designing clothes according to the designer’s terms of reference. It is also very important for me to combine all the concepts. I come up with a design, volumes, proportions and give out a very clear task, probably without giving any freedom to the designer because I am a person who understands the design and how this design will be transformed, what technological details, seams, the whole technology. I decide up to how thick the threads will be, whether the stitches are made, the length of the stitch. It’s very important, it’s a whole art. All the fittings, the design of the fittings, I make the decisions myself. I really like it, to keep the creation of my product under control.

How would you describe the brand’s style?

Restrained refined refined style, aesthetically filled. It is filled with aesthetics, it is very important, it is very sensual, very relevant. It is very important for me that fashion is relevant. Today I have researched a person’s life, his speed of life, and I understand how I should create clothes that will help a person feel comfortable, stylish, pronounced in society.

Now many brands are for environmental friendliness and recycling. What materials does the Ianis Chamalidy brand use? Are you planning to create collections from recycled materials?

We used posters that hung on the streets of Italy and we recycled these banners into clothes. We had a whole direction and now we are creating fabrics that use a small amount of water for washing, less chemicals. These fabrics are very quickly erased, easy to dry. We do not use electricity for ironing with an iron. We are working very seriously on this issue and this is a whole direction in the brand.

On June 21, the Forte collection was shown as part of the Moscow Fashion Week. Tell us more about this collection. What inspired you to create it?

At fashion Week we showed the Spring Summer 23 collection, I called this collection „The Dividend“, this is a reflection on a person who has turned from an individual into a dividend. This is the philosophy of Gilles Deleuze, a French philosopher who said that in the modern world a person will turn from an individual into a dividend. This is a new person, with a new understanding, a sense of life, who lives with a different speed of life than before. All the events that have happened, they have further strengthened us in understanding that in fact, a person who has gone through a pandemic, all the cataclysms and all these experiences, he turns from an individual into a dividend, because a person from a linear world where there is a floor and a ceiling, white and black, God and the devil, everything used to be it is very clear that I have moved into a linear virtual world, where the concept of human values is shifting. He ceases to live according to the norms and concepts that were in the past, and as if the research of this person, his speed of life, in general behavior, was created in the „Dividend“ collection. The collection reflected all these issues and reasonable use and global environmental things. When we brought the collection from St. Petersburg to Moscow, we did not steam it, it did not crumple. It is made of ecological materials, it is a synthetic that does not crumple, requires little water when washing, gets dirty less and is very tactile pleasant to the body. This topic of recycling, ecology and so on, we showed all this at fashion week.

Who is the Ianis Chamalidy brand for? Can you describe its target audience?

Today I dress a lot of artists, actors, people of creative professions, of course, and business people too, but most of my clients are business people who are in their own business, very creative people who go beyond the general concepts of style and beauty.

Ianis Chamalidy is a well-known brand in Russia. Would you like the brand to exist on the world market in the future?

Of course we want the brand to exist all over the world because customers wear IANIS CHAMALIDY clothes all over the world and the understanding of the brand is more global. It is like a reaction to cultural events, to a person, a global person, a person of the world, he travels, he has no borders, a person is absolutely free, a person of the world. For such free, creative, creative people, I create a collection, of course, this is a global client.

How would you describe today’s fashion and what feelings does evoke in you?

I see fashion today as very positive because fashion is always a tool for gaining freedom and fashion today offers a large number of solutions, ranging from absurd, ridiculous and useless, but as a manifestation of creative freedom, inner endless awakening of the personality, but the other side is very reasonable and caring about the future of a person. Fashion for me today shows the triumph of a person’s creativity and it inspires me very much.

ianischamalidy.com

Interview with the designer of the brand „Maison ESVE“

By /FASHION/, /INTERVIEW, /NEWS/

Maison ESVE Backstage by shumovphoto

Text:
L y u b o v  M e l n i c k o w a

Interview with the designer of the brand "Maison ESVE"

Thank you for taking time for an interview with us! We are happy to welcome you to PURPLE HAZE magazine. Before asking questions about the brand, I would like to learn more about the designer and founder of the brand Maison Esve.

Tell a little about yourself. How did your creative path begin and why did you decide to become a fashion designer?

Good afternoon. My first education had nothing to do with fashion, it was faculty of law. I studied law and danced in the team of the famous pop artist Jeanne Friske, where my conscious interest in fashion and design arose. At that moment I started creating costumes for working on stage and after completing my path in show business (25 years) I went to get an education in the specialty „design“ – at first it was a Textile University named after him.Kosygina, then I continued my studies at BHSAD (on the British course) is a branch of Hertfordshire University.

Maison ESVE Backstage by Olga Shirokova @redangel_vendetta

What does fashion mean in your understanding?

For me, fashion is creativity within the purchasing power of your client. If goods are very creative, but not sold, I call it art. People need to understand and wear fashion.

As a rule, a clothing brand is a large team that takes part in the creation of collections. How many people are in the brand team and what are the
responsibilities of the chief designer?

The idea of my brand was to combine talents and unlock the potential of each of the team members. Hence the first part of the brand name „Maison“ – which means „fashion house“. Our team consists of 7 very creative people, whom I, as the head of this fashion house, inspire to be creative and implement my ideas. I believe in every person who is with me, and I am grateful for their professionalism. I love experiments and mistakes, because I see in them a design path that cannot be drawn or thought out in advance.

Maison ESVE Backstage by @lizamedvedeva

Maison ESVE Backstage by @lizamedvedeva

Maison ESVE Backstage by @lizamedvedeva

How would you describe the brand’s style?

Maison ESVE is focused on creating intelligent collections with a large share of handmade. All designs start with a concept and are thought out to the smallest detail. It is always a style unlike anyone else and a clear recognition thanks to details – jewelry processing, hanging beads, connection of cut, layering, delicate fabrics, loose fit, tactility of selected materials, carabiner fasteners and ribbon ties. We always have a complex technology production of products, therefore, it is very difficult to repeat our design. Zippers and buttons are practically not found in collections. A lot of boudoir and negligee aesthetics. I love transparency. There is also a line of dresses-combinations that can always be purchased under an upper dress or worn by themselves.

Now many brands are for environmental friendliness and recycling. What materials does the Maison Esve brand use? Are you planning to create collections from recycled materials?

We are thinking about environmental friendliness, but we do not use recycled materials yet. We adhere to the principle of “reasonable consumption“ and „reasonable design“. What it means: we use fabrics from previous collections, changing the design and processing methods so as not to buy a lot of new fabrics with large leftovers from previous collections.
Also, knowing the width of the fabric and the footage, there is always a design miscalculation first, which product can be invented so that there are minimal attacks.
We use small pieces of fabric to make bags. Thus, we try to minimize the “garbage” after the creative process.

Maison ESVE Backstage by shumovphoto

On June 21, the Forte collection was shown as part of the Moscow Fashion Week. Tell us more about this collection. What inspired you to create it?

The new FORTE collection is a synthesis of the aesthetics of the ancient Maya civilization and recognizable features of the brand that have become the hallmark of Maison ESVE.
The standards of beauty among the tribal inhabitants were as extreme as possible. It is believed that Maya is a beauty that requires maximum sacrifice.
Therefore, the name of the collection ‘FORTE’, first of all, means – ‘in full force‘. The collection is very rich, but within the aesthetics of the brand.

And the girl in the new collection fascinates with the desire to know her inner world, creating an image of a bright and luxurious conqueror of a new civilization.

It was the mathematical foundations of the knowledge of the world of the inhabitants of the Yucatan Peninsula that inspired the creation of designs. Most of the products are built in a mock-up way with precise calculations of proportions, the number of layers, the level of the percentage of assembly, the geometry of the connection of the drawing.

Maison ESVE Backstage by @lizamedvedeva

Maison ESVE Backstage by @lizamedvedeva

Maison ESVE Backstage by @lizamedvedeva

A minimalistic cut resembling simple pieces of cloth with slits for the hands and head, as well as a traditional loincloth in the form of a palm-wide strip of fabric, which was wrapped around the body several times or placed in thick assemblies, are presented in the collection in many products and are made of thin delicate fabrics characteristic of the brand.

Long capes, ankle-length skirts and combination dresses, starting above the chest and leaving the shoulders open, abundantly decorated with fringe, embroidered with small lace patterns or beads. The sequins and hanging beads presented in the collection resemble discs made of shells and coins that tribal women attached to the edges of their clothes so that they tinkled melodiously when walking.
The layering in the brand’s collection corresponds to the status of the image.
Among the Maya, only noble people could afford to add a long ‘shirt’ and a second loincloth, similar to a full skirt, over the garment.

By color, the collection in the show is presented on the contrast of combinations denoting three periods of the existence of the Maya civilization.
There are a total of 33 outputs of 11 bows for each period.

Who is the Maison Esve brand for? Can you describe its target audience?

First of all, the heroine of ESVE is a self-confident intellectual. She knows how to present herself, she doesn’t hesitate in front of the camera, she knows how to impress. Her steps are soft and her breathing is light, she make a wish by blowing an eyelash off the tip of her finger, she intrigues and provokes a little and always likes to be the center of attention. She will always have a reason to show the brand’s products.
She is always very sophisticated, and revealing clothes emphasize not sexuality, but the fragility of her sensual nature.

Maison Esve is a well-known brand in Russia. Would you like the brand to exist on the world market in the future?

Of course, we strive for this. Let it in small steps, but with great dignity and pride for all that we do.

Maison ESVE Backstage by shumovphoto

How would you describe today’s fashion and what feelings does evoke in you?

Fashion is as contradictory as ever. There are always inspiring moments and upsetting ones. I’m glad to be a part of this madness)

Brand website maisonesve-shop.com

Interviews with the artists of the exhibition „DO NOT GO OUT THE WINDOW“

By /ART/, /INTERVIEW, /NEWS/

Joke Amusan, Standing, Despite It All

Text
E k a t e r i n a  S i d o r e n k o v a

Interviews with the artists of the exhibition "DO NOT GO OUT THE WINDOW"

Few days ago in the HAZE gallery we opened a collective online exhibition called Do not go out the window.
This exhibition is focused on global problems that we’re forgetting, because they stay with us permanently, as information noise. All of us got used to these problems and became much less sensitive.
We spoke with artists about their works, the situation in the world and things that we should do to remember despite the circumstances.

Joke Amusan, German-born Nigerian artist living in England
@ibijoke.img
jokeamusan.com/

How can you describe your art in a few sentences?

My art practice highlights the experiences and complex beauty of what it means to be a Black woman. My art pieces are conversational, encouraging women to come together to speak up, share their stories, and embrace who they are unapologetically. Words are an important aspect of my work and they weave through my practice like a narrative, joining everything together.

Can you call the most important authors in contemporary art? Why?

I admire a lot of contemporary artists and the list changes all the time, but I would say the one constant person I am inspired by is Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie. Although she’s a writer, I still view her as an artist. I admire the way she poetically tells stories and addresses situations that often get overlooked. She’s not afraid to voice her opinions and make sure that she’s heard.

I also love the work of Carrie Mae Weems and her photography work which are powerful yet have a certain vulnerability to them as well. It’s as though we, the viewer, are given an insight into an intimate setting. 

Joke Amusan, Against The Tide

I’m currently interested in the works of Billie Zangewa and her beautifully hand-sewn collage tapestries which explore the intersections of identities too.

Did your artistic vision change in the last few months? And how?

I would say that while my artistic vision is still pretty much the same, my way of expressing my vision has been evolving recently. While I was at university, I explored many different modes of presenting my art, and for a little while afterwards I felt stuck in one particular mode. I’ve recently become very interested in including myself more in my artworks and filming the processes of “staging” some of my art pieces. In this way, I’d like to show the process or journey of getting from A to B, and the various diversions that may present themselves in the middle of that journey. I don’t just want to share the somewhat finished and polished piece, I want every high and low, every mountaintop and valley to be seen in my work. I’m allowing myself to be more vulnerable and enjoying storytelling in that way.

Why  did you decide to participate in the exhibition Do not go out the window?

The theme of the exhibition really stood out to me because I’m a huge fan of speaking up for what’s right and fostering a space where we all listen to one another. I think the Do not go out the window exhibition is important because it reminds us that we must continue to stand strong in our beliefs and not allow the world to sway us. To not allow the obstacles in our way to scare us away from even trying.

What message do viewers will have seen in your works at the exhibition?

The two pieces I exhibited in the exhibition, If You Have A Voice, Speak., and Sharing Stories Breaks Barriers, collectively sums up what my art practice is all about. I initially created them aimed at Black women in a bid to help break down that wall where we feel that we can’t speak up or that, if we do, that it won’t amount to anything. It’s been great to see so many other people also resonate with the pieces. I truly believe that having a united front can break barriers, and the seemingly ordinary conversations that we’re having today can and will shape future generations.

Joke Amusan, This Too Shall Pass – Volume 2

Joke Amusan, Still I Rise

Joke Amusan

What would you like to wish our viewers and all the people in general to remember and never forget?

Being vulnerable is such a powerful and important thing. It is always worth it! Don’t be afraid to go against the current or have different thoughts that others may not necessarily support. Be steadfast and choose to rise again every single time you fall.

 

Elyana Shamselangeroodi, Iran
@elyana.shamselangeroodi
www.elyanashamselangeroodi.com

How can you describe your art in a few sentences?

Creating digital collages came to me at a very difficult time in my personal life. Finding it almost impossible and crippling to put my feelings, thoughts, and experiences into words, I began creating surreal spaces that brought me joy, allowing me to envision a world where life was simple, even in its complexity. My work was once described as ‚making friends with kind giants‘, and at the time it referred to large animals (namely elephants and giraffes) always being central to the stories told. Over the past two years, my work has begun exploring concepts of fear, joy, happiness, sadness. The kind giants have taken shape in facing the fear of the unknown, the difficult conversations, the scary thoughts. My expansion as a person has resulted in my practice extending itself beyond digital collages, introducing mixed media and new media to allow for the stories to unfold as best they can.

Elyana Shamselangeroodi

Can you call the most important authors in contemporary art? Why?

Salvador Dalí, René Magritte, and Vera Molnár.
Dalí and Magritte challenged how we see the world. Unique in their styles and storytelling, they each invite us to view everything from a different perspective, regardless of how unreal they might be. The courage to imagine something beyond the surface, created the fundamentals of many great novels, films, and visual art that we have seen, and continue to explore, in the 21st century. Vera Molnár, one of the pioneers of generative and computer arts, as well as the first woman to use computers in her art practice, introduced a 21st century medium to the arts. She is a major inspiration to me as a female artist, for her bold choice of using a medium that was unthinkable in a way that is complex yet stunning in simplicity at first glance.

 Did your artistic vision change in the last few months? And how?

Over the past year, alongside my digital collages, I have begun working in mixed media and new media as a way to expand my storytelling. In the beginning, getting used to painting over paint, messing things up, and exploring as I went was incredibly difficult to me, and I think that is primarily because digital work allowed me to have multiple versions of the same piece, without having to compromise. Getting over the fear of losing work, and embracing what would unfold as I went along was a challenge for me; however, it is one that I believe has made me a bit more brave. What I have learned in the past few months is trusting your instincts and the process.

Why  did you decide to participate in the exhibition Do not go out the window?

Do Not Go Out the Window highly resonated with me for providing visual arts a platform to be a form of protest against repression. As a woman from a country with many restrictions, especially for women to exist in the society and even in their own homes, we often find unconventional ways to have our voices and stories heard. I found Haze Gallery and this specific exhibition to shed a light on the significance that art can provide at times of personal, societal, and universal need to speak up, unify, and become more brave — and am thrilled to be a part of it!

Elyana Shamselangeroodi, Unlearn

Elyana Shamselangeroodi, Beautiful Ruins

Elyana Shamselangeroodi, Submerged

What message do viewers will have seen in your works at the exhibition?

I think for the unusual time that I found digital collages to be my rescue, I threw my loneliness and its familiar struggles into pieces that made me feel less lonely. Similarly, I have heard individuals connect with my work, empathizing having felt the emotion that the pieces often try to convey silently. I would hope that the viewer knows that they’re not alone, that the struggles they may be going through will make them stronger, that they matter in this world, that this world would certainly be missing something without them.

What would you like to wish our viewers and all the people in general to remember and never forget?

There’s a poem from one of the most iconic contemporary Iranian poets — Sohrab Sepehri — that reads:

Wherever I am, let me be
The sky is mine
The windows,
Thought,
Air,
Love,
The earth
Is mine

This piece has time and time again reminded me that I belong on this earth, regardless of anyone who wants to go against it, and so do you. Live life on your terms. You belong here, you are worthy.

 

Kateryna Repa, Ukraine
@repaekaterina
katerynarepa.wixsite.com

Kateryna Repa, Evolution Earth

Kateryna Repa

Kateryna Repa, CatDog

How can you describe your art in a few sentences?

In my works in the field of painting, sculpture, and media, I touch on the topic of ecology and the impact of human consumption on it, as well as the types of its consequences for the environment and us.
In graphics, these are different manifestations of the human essence, such as it is, in my opinion, at the given moment of development.
I also touch on the topic of evolution and its manifestations, linking it with technologies, their influence, and possible themes of their manifestation.

Can you call the most important authors in contemporary art? Why?

Damien Hirst is great at marketing, some of his work reflects reality.
Marina Abramovich – she brought performance to a new level, some of her works reflect the dark essence of humans.

Did your artistic vision change in the last few months? And how?

Yes, it has changed, it has become more reflective of the events that are taking place in my country (Ukrainian) and has become more manifest.

Why  did you decide to participate in the exhibition Do not go out the window?

I wanted to talk about the real events that are happening now in Ukraine.

Kateryna Repa, Evolution Arch Water

Kateryna Repa, Stingray

Kateryna Repa, Gorilla

What message do viewers will have seen in your works at the exhibition?

The message of humanity. This is the only thing that can help us. And that cardinal changes are needed in the system of government of countries in order to prevent military actions.

What would you like to wish our viewers and all the people in general to remember and never forget?

I want to wish everyone to never forget the person inside of you.

 

Viktoria Salma, Uzbekistan artist living in German
@viktoria_salma
 www.viktoria-salma.com

How can you describe your art in a few sentences?

In my art I’m looking for things hidden behind the facade and trying to capture the beauty of the true self of people and animals, sometimes landscapes. As I truly believe, we all are souls traveling through time and space and each of us has a story to be told.

Can you call the most important authors in contemporary art? Why?

For me it´s Francis Bacon with all the distorted reality in his paintings — his work feels so contemporary to me, especially when we think, what is going on in the world. Adrian Ghenie with his historical topics. And surely Banksy – with his social critical approach.

Victoria Salma

Did your artistic vision change in the last few months? And how?

The last few months showed me even more clearly how important it is to stand for your own ideas and values.

Why  did you decide to participate in the exhibition Do not go out the window?

I grew up in Russia — in our history we learned a lot about violence and injustice. Especially against people who do not agree with the regime. But history repeats just in front of our eyes. I could not stay silent.

What message do viewers will have seen in your works at the exhibition?

The mix media drawings from the series „In Memoriam“, were originally started in honor of victims of Stalinism, as my great-grandfather was one of them. They are about the helplessness and the pain of not being heard. From February 2022 they are developed to be dedicated to all people who suffer from totalitarian regimes.

What would you like to wish our viewers and all the people in general to remember and never forget?

We live in a very special time, where everyone has to find her or his own truth and to stand for it. No one can hide behind others any more.

Victoria Salma, Metamorphose

Victoria Salma, From the current project Tonkashila

Victoria Salma, The spirits I called

Pawel Pacholec, Poland
@paul.piotrowicz
www.behance.net/pacholec-pawel

How can you describe your art in a few sentences?

I wish my art to be thought provoking. Symbols that I use are often related to humanistic and social topics. I don’t consider my collage artworks to be very aesthetic, rather I care more about conveying reflective content. I try to fill the gap after C.G. Jung’s words that we live in thoughtless reality.

Can you call the most important authors in contemporary art? Why?

Since my main technique is collage I will mention the greatest in this field such as Robert Rauchenberg, Kurt Schwitters and Raoul Hausmann. They all created collages in the style of dada which is one of the best ways to comment on current affairs. Their collages were uncompromising, they criticized various political and social situations, often in a sarcastic or ironic way. This is an intelligent approach to art for thinking people.

Did your artistic vision change in the last few months? And how?

Present events in the world inspire deeper reflection. We are facing the greatest economic collapse ever and the social changes are very substantial and moving fast. The Overton Window mechanics can be seen very clearly as never before. I try to respond in an artistic manner to most of these turbulences.

Pawel Pacholec

Pawel Pacholec

Pawel Pacholec

Why  did you decide to participate in the exhibition Do not go out the window?

Topic that you propose is very close to me at the moment. Those massive changes in the world that we witness are forcing me to get more involved in politics and socio-economics. As the saying goes: “Evil feeds on the cowardice of good people”. I don’t want to be silent in these times.

What message do viewers will have seen in your works at the exhibition?

My main concern in life and art is the human condition. There are in my opinion way too many attempts of aggression, abuse and propaganda. I want to point out those subjects. I try to express my dissatisfaction with violence, as well as social pressure, repressions and aims to limit personal rights.

What would you like to wish our viewers and all the people in general to remember and never forget?

Follow your ideals, have some discipline, do and buy art that you love.

Pawel Pacholec, Absurd

Pawel Pacholec, Freedom

Pawel Pacholec, Body In Metamorphosis

Interview with Female Artists from HAZEGALLERY

By /ART/, /INTERVIEW

Text: I r i n a  R u s i n o v i c h
All photos are provided by the authors of the HAZE Gallery

Interview with Female Artists from HAZEGALLERY

Interview with Marina WitteMann

What artwork/series of works do you find pivotal for your career? 

It was a series of colour fields made of paper that has become a turning point for my career as an artist. Prior to that, I analyzed every work of mine considering it to be a new step of development. Thus, my creative self evolved and infused with each of my artworks. However, even I was amazed by what happened at the very beginning of this series.

Ever since I can remember it, I have enjoyed a special relationship with colour. It’s called synesthesia: when sensations emanating from one sense organ are also manifested in another one, for example, seeing the pain in colour or feeling the shape of a cold. Therefore, my art revolved around this. Before, I didn’t understand why it happened. The desire to analyze, reproduce, compare the colour with form and material prompted me to do new experiments. 

I love oil paints for its texture and colour purity, but this has never been enough for me. I felt a need to go beyond the canvas, to feel the colour in the space. In sculpture, the shape interferes with the colour, that’s why I opted for it. The way I work now allows me to use paint and other materials as they are, leaving out the original colour and the history of these objects. That’s how I translate the emotions I experience daily through artistic materials.  

How has being a woman affected your career?

Surprisingly, I have always enjoyed being a woman, though perfectly realizing that women tend to think in a too complicated way and yield to emotions. All that prevents women from discarding the unnecessary and focusing on what is really important. I cultivated those qualities myself, so now I can control my emotions, while still enjoying my feminine essence. I seek to express the tenderness and softness of female nature in the floral and gentle shape of my art objects. The paper structure catches the eye and lets one penetrate the surface at the same time, just like the woman nature implies.

What makes a great artist?

It seems to me that an artist becomes great when their art begins to resonate in the souls and the minds of other people. It’s just the way it works in all spheres of life. A great artist is capable of creating a piece that is equally simple and complex. For example, imagine a work where a composition reveals through the material, while the material, in turn, establishes many associations the viewer might recognize. The colour grabs attention and starts a discussion; the texture excites and awakens a desire to touch the piece, to communicate with it physically… From the work, the viewer gains a longstanding experience and a sense of time. Therefore, a great artwork is inevitably modern, as it reveals the timeless conditions of being alive. 

Which other great women artists inspire you and why?

This list is endless. And by the way, I don’t divide artists into men and women. Primarily, I look at the object or the non-material result of work and only then, will I read the author’s story. I can still highlight a few of my favourite female artists and just women with a capital letter W. A great woman who inspires me is not just a woman who paints with oil or makes sculptures. For me, it’s a creative being full of willpower, authenticity, and capacity to communicate with people and life. 

Here I would like to mention Matrona Moskovskaya as one of my sources of inspiration. Saint Matrona was blind and lost the ability to walk early in life. With all the hardships, she was so strong in spirit that she kept working wonders for people. So those miracles for me are what artists should strive for in their artistic practice. In general, being an artist and a saint at the same time, like Andrei Rublev, for example, seems to me an especially fruitful combination (and history proves it). 

Another Russian artist who inspires me is the ballerina Maya Plisetskaya. Her energy, passion, hard work, strong character, elegance and progressive thinking are what I am guided by in my work. 

Choreographer Sharon Eyal is no less inspiring for me. When I first saw her Untitled black performance in Shanghai, it felt like a shock and an extravaganza. I was struck by the incredible naturalness of the movements the troupe did on stage. Music, costumes — everything looked as if it were taken from the future. It seems to me a real work of art should be just like that: progressive, challenging, highly material, and sensual.

In general, I tend to consider my contemporaries while searching for inspiration. For example, artist Phyllida Barlow is like a teacher to me now. If I have a question, I will certainly look for an answer in Barlow’s works. I love the simplicity of her materials and the way they’re interpreted. The completed work should be viewed not with the eyes, but with the soul. To be able to ‘read’ art objects that have been created on a sensory level, one needs to use their sixth sense. I feel a strong connection with Russian culture here: I guess we, Russians, often communicate this way. 

Last but not the least, I should mention artist Marina Abramovic. I will never stop learning from her. The way she communicates with the viewer and reaches catharsis, the mediums she uses in art, all that captivates my attention. For me, it’s about feelings, soul, experience, and in general the development of the sixth sense.

What advice would you give to emerging female artists entering the art world?

— Take yourself seriously and enjoy the process. If you don’t believe in yourself, then no one will, why should they? In art, you can lie, neither to yourself nor to the viewer; if someone senses a catch, the work won’t be recognized as a true art. At the same time, if you don’t experience pleasure from doing art, you will hardly be able to engage others with your ideas.

— Listen to yourself and constantly work, then everything falls into place.

— Always try new things. And reflect on it.

— Compare yourself with contemporaries and geniuses and draw conclusions: has your work differed; if so, for better or worse etc. 

— Continue to doubt, otherwise you may either remain ignorant or stop your search too early.

Interview with Elena Fuks (Lentov)

What artwork/series of works do you find pivotal for your career? 

I wouldn’t call it pivotal, however, my decision to enter the sphere of art was related to this particular piece. It was the first artwork I sold: a watercolor on an A5 sheet of paper portraying a little girl in the style of Yoshitomo Nara. One day, I was invited to participate in the big student fair of contemporary art at the British Higher School of Art and Design. Among the participants, I was the only non-student; full of hesitation, I was in the process of choosing my future career at the time. Nevertheless, I had all of my artworks sold by the end of the fair.

How has being a woman affected your career?

I find it really difficult to answer this question without having an experience of being a male artist. I can’t say for sure, but female art seems more emotional and sincere to me. 

What makes a great artist?

A great mind and an unquenchable inspiration.

Which other great women artists inspire you and why?

To be honest, I don’t have idols and normally I don’t pay attention to the gender of the artist either. I’m rather inspired by the art piece itself and the emotions it conveys. For me, the pure source of inspiration is hidden in daily life, in the stories and personalities of ordinary people… So you can be the first to transfer these feelings into the realm of art. 

What advice would you give to emerging female artists?

Be yourself, don’t dread the ‘journey’ with all its ups and downs, and always remember about your goals.

Interview with Kristina Okan 

What artwork/series of works do you find pivotal for your career? 

I would say it is my Allusions graphic series. What I did in the period of 2017—2018 defined my entire artistic practice so far. I feel like I have found my voice. Besides, I have realized that the process itself is just as important as the outcome in art. 

How has being a woman affected your career?

Luckily, my gender has never affected my career in neither way. I believe there should always be enough space for both male and female artists on the art scene.

What makes a great artist?

Honesty with yourself. Sensitive interaction with the world. Regular doubting and questioning what you do.

Which other great women artists inspire you and why?

Alicja Kwade is an absolutely mind-blowing artist for me. The way she works with materials such as stone and wood is great and simple and smart and impressive at the same time, it looks like pure magic! Giovanna Garzoni has become my recent discovery: her works are very inspiring because of their mesmerizing quality and a very sensitive admiration of nature they transmit. I also think here of Yayoi Kusama, her parallel universe where you just lose a sense of reality.

What advice would you give to emerging female artists?

Be in contact with your inner voice, never let it down. Always be the best version of yourself.